I would put a washer on it Is it leaking oil, seems like it would?

This is the part # for the washer ---07119963355--- This place has it for 8 cents http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_number_search/07119963355#

BTW- Welcome to the forums:hi:

 

The washer is there for a reason. You will have a leak if you don't replace the gasket.

You could try this. Get a new washer, loosen the drain plug, with one hand take the plug out and temporarily plug the hole with a finger from the other hand and try to put the new washer on the plug with the free hand, then put the plug in.

It is a real dance and you will defintely get dirty. The other option is to just drain it all out into a clean catch basin, put on the new washer, replace the drain plug and refill. It probably would not hurt to refill with the fluid that you just put in.

 

Wow, you guys are quick!

Thanks for the responses. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. In any event i'll do as you guys suggest and install the wwasher on my next free afternoon.

Any of you guys do the double vanos? good or bad experiences donig it?
-Tomaj

 

Wow, you guys are quick!

Thanks for the responses. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. In any event i'll do as you guys suggest and install the wwasher on my next free afternoon.

Any of you guys do the double vanos? good or bad experiences donig it?
-Tomaj

Yes, replace the vanos seals, it will make your car happy
http://beisansystems.com/

 

At least it's not the single VANOS, there's no way I'd DIY that***8230;

Replace the washer. It's probably there for a reason, like replacing the crush washer and O-ring every time you change the oil.

 

Absolutely need a washer.

You read my DIY but did not follow it to the "t" hehe:
http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/189240

Figre 4c shows you the drain plug.
"........5. NOTE on bolts:
a. REAR Diff bolts are 14-mm Hex. FILL and DRAIN plugs are the same but I scribed "F" in Filler Plug just to make sure the same plug goes back to the same place.
Do NOT lose the aluminum washers. Keep the washers in the same orientation if reusing the washers (which I did).
Also, the plugs are filled with road debris, making it difficult to insert the 14-mm Allen wrench........."

Get a new washer from dealer and put it in.
Get a wine cork or some plug to temporarily plug it then quickly swap the drian plug in there.
Then refill the rear diff a bit.

 

Why not take out the fill plug first, put a new washer on it, then remove the drain plug and quickly replace it with the fill plug? Aren't they the same part number and thread? Then just use the drain as the fill plug. By the way, whenever I'm changing the fluid in something for the first time, I always take out the fill plug first. That way I know that I can refill the the component once it's drained. Sometimes the fill is seized or very difficult to access (like the power takeoff of my Mazdaspeed 6).

 

quick follow up -- no leaks yet! In the meantime my right-rear window decided to take a big dump (regulator / lifter). I got quoted $250 for a new OEM unit w/motor from the dealer, but the motor is fine so I decided to get this one:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...se.com/details/QQBMWQQ528iQQWSOQQWindow_RegulatorQQ19992000QQW0133-1599365.html

BTW that door is a big pain in the butt! I can't believe they hid that torx bolt behind the window glass. They even give you a nice little window so you can look at it and scratch your head for half an hour on how you're going to get to it!

-Tomaj

 

I'd suggest a washer because you don't know when it leaks far away from home = no fun!

The rear diff fluid is thick (80W90 viscosity) = no leak yet.

When it gets hot (Las Vegas summer or intense driving), it becomes much more fluid ---> potential for leak. Do not gamble on a 99-cent part.

 

that's a good point. I'm not saying i won't do it, i'm just waiting for a free moment i swear!

 

OK so i got the part from autopartswarehouse, and it's a match, so thats good in case anyone is looking for the mechanism sans motor..

Now for the bad part I disassembled the motor itself because i was impatient and unscrewed the wrong set of screws.. So, the motor is now dead, and i'm hunting for just the motor

Have you guys dealt with A1 Cardone? They have remanufactured parts, its $50 vs. over $100 for OES brand here:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=1580+9735+4294965186&Ntt=window+motor

-Tomaj