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No choke ?!

2.8K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  downhiller  
#1 ·
I changed a few parts in the engine and my car runs fine and idles fine but not at starting ! It cranks, it starts just fine .. Idles high and in a matter of seconds drops in revs and dies ! If I keep it from acceleration steady, and I warm the engine up the car runs flawless!!! BUT not when I start it ! The car has to have a choke ! How can I solve this problem ?! I changed the AFM, 3 idle valves ... Clean the throttle... Changed the throttle pos. Sensor.....What else can I do?! I'm outta options !! Thanks !
 
#2 ·
Coolant temp sensor is bad. It's what tells the ECU if the engine is cold or at normal running temperature. If the sensor goes bad it defaults to feeding fuel as if the engine is fully warmed up, so until it gets warmed up, it's running too lean.
 
#6 ·
Chokes are things that only exist on carbureted motors. you have EFI.
+1 for the temp sensor.

What version of motronic do you have? if you have a 153DME, I'd suggest an upgrade to a 173 DME.
 
#8 ·
If you have the 6 cyl, it's right on top. takes minutes to change.
 
#9 ·
Bleed the coolant after.
 
#13 ·
Sorry ! What I mean I reseted by unpluged it for a few minutes put it back started the car .. Ran fine ! I let it run ! Then shut it off and back on, she was still acting up .. But it's a different feeling .. Used to run like somebody clogged the intake and exhaust .. Now it sounds better and runs .. I mean really runs, it spins tires everywhere :)
 
#16 ·
I swapped the sensor too changed the idle valves between them I have 3 .. Times the throttle position sensor .. Which was pesky, I had to grind those ears to give it a longer slack .. It wouldn't work other way.. Unplugged the ECU and fired it up.. It runs at normal idle it's starts right but I'm afraid I need a lambda sensor .. I've read somewhere about a wideband one?!! That's would be the last thing I haven't changed ! The car runs way better then before it has power and the smell of unburned gas went away.. The mixture is def better !!
 
#17 ·
you can't feed the car a wideband sensor unless it was built for one. I'd suggest OEM/equivalent for the narrowband O2 sensor. if you WANT a wideband (for the gauge), then something like the Innovate LC-2 can output a narrowband sensor so you can feed it back to the engine.
 
#19 ·
At different idles 650 thru 900 let's say or when I'm at 760-800 idling at a stop light for more then a few secs my check engine light comes on and goes off once I tap shortly on the gas or when I shift in 1st.. So I'm still getting more fuel.. I smell the car running a bit rich .. But not even close to how was running before! I'm gonna change my AFM with the old one and give it one last shot .. Tuesday im buying a new O2 and post again ..
 
#20 ·
At different idles 650 thru 900 let's say or when I'm at 760-800 idling at a stop light for more then a few secs my check engine light comes on and goes off once I tap shortly on the gas or when I shift in 1st.. So I'm still getting more fuel.. I smell the car running a bit rich .. But not even close to how was running before! I'm gonna change my AFM with the old one and give it one last shot .. Tuesday im buying a new O2 and post again ..
My e30 started doing that - I replaced the O2 sensor and it stopped doing that.
 
#22 ·
Bavauto. they also sell an O2 sensor wrench with a cut-out so you don't ruin the wires.