1) how good is the alignment guy? I would find a top notch specialist who only does alignments and re do it. If it tracks straight the toe may be correct, but the camber may be off.
2) It may be the tires and tire pressures. Low tire pressures reduce the crispness, as do tires with soft sidewalls.

 

Get a Porsche

 

Which e39 do you have? handling is compromised with worn tierods. Why didnt you change them?

 

Have a 1997 528I. I didn't replace, because frankly, they didn't need it; the ball joints were still very tight. In fact, the entire front suspension was still in excellent shape despite the 120k mileage; all ball joints were very tight, no oil leakage, etc, and there is zero slop in the steering.. The struts, however, were completely toast. I honestly think I could have replaced just the struts and the sway bar links and I would have been fine.

I thought about the alignment, but it was done at a reputable BMW dealer, and they showed me the spec sheet...when they were done all were within spec (both front and rear).

Tires might be an issue..

 

You know some things about your car, specifically what you have replaced. Now we are getting somewhere. Tell us about the tires, pressure, type, wear etc. etc.

Sherlock Holmes: "How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth? "

 

How about the rear suspension? Check the ball joints there.

 

These go bad about as frequently as thrust arms it seems, but it seems worthwhile to concentrate on the front suspension.

OP did you check your sway bar end links by tugging at them as hard as you can? Besides that, I'd look at the strut top hats and make sure your control arm bushings weren't torn prematurely because of improper torque (must load suspension first!).

Don't forget that tie rods help locate the spindles.. did tug at the wheels while looking for play?

What brand were the control arm bushings?

 

Still lacking that BMW 'road feel.' I replaced everything .

Kinda disappointing after spending $1k in parts, and two solid days in the garage. ...seems worse in some spects now.:dunno:

I know this isn't very descriptive, but if someone kind point me in a direction, that would be helpful.

Suspension work is very straightforward. Improved parts yield improved results unless you did something wrong. The source of the problem could be in various areas. Answer the following questions so we can help:

1. What brand parts did you use ($1K spent suggests Lemforder)? Did you get OEM or aftermarket brands?
2. Where did you buy them (hopefully not eBay)?
3. Is the car ride height the same as before?
4. When you speak of "road feel", do you mean handling qualities like steering feedback, tracking, etc. or ride qualities like shock absorption, noise, vibration harshness, etc.?
5. Did you follow EVERY step of the DIY? Did you take ANY shortcuts or modify any steps?

 

Suspension work is very straightforward. Improved parts yield improved results unless you did something wrong. The source of the problem could be in various areas. Answer the following questions so we can help:

1. What brand parts did you use ($1K spent suggests Lemforder)? Did you get OEM or aftermarket brands?
2. Where did you buy them (hopefully not eBay)?
3. Is the car ride height the same as before?
4. When you speak of "road feel", do you mean handling qualities like steering feedback, tracking, etc. or ride qualities like shock absorption, noise, vibration harshness, etc.?
5. Did you follow EVERY step of the DIY? Did you take ANY shortcuts or modify any steps?

Apologize for not being more specific...followed cn90's DIY almost to the T.... I'll answer the questions above in order:

1. I spent about $1100 ...used Lemforder for control and thrust arms, Sachs for struts and strut mounts... I believe I used Bilstien sway bar links - that's the only variation from the parts list. I ordered using the parts list and numbers from the DIY. BTW - I did buy the tie rod ends (Lemforder), but as I stated didn't install b/c they were good; ball joints still nice and tight, etc.

2. Purchased the parts from a combination of eactuning and partsgeek.

3. Yes, car ride height is the same.

4. It tracks straight/ doesn't pull. It goes where you point it, and there is NO slop in the steering. However it seems to wander for lack of a better word...doesn't have that 'glued to the road' feel. It does handle the bumps much better, there are no vibrations, clunks, etc.

As far as short cuts from the DIY.... not really. I did preload the suspension before torquing down...however, I did this with the car empty (e.g. no one sitting in it). I did use a torque wrench to ensure I had the correct values.

I wouldn't have posted, however, in some respects the road feel seems worse than before I did the work.

 

i went through the exact precedure as you did, except my front end parts bill was $1200....
The handling after the suspension overhaul seemed flatter than I remembered (needing steering input after effecting a turn), and wander-like - at times, not always- and at times the left side didn't know what the right side was doing, or the front didn't know what the rear was doing. I was a tad disappointed w/ the outcome, for I know what my e39 is supposed to feel like when it's brand new. And this brand new suspension of mine wasn't giving me any love. Then I splurged on 4 brand new wheels and tires. Voila! the new car feel instantly materialized. I surmised that it had to have been my 15k mile Michelin Pilot Sports A/S tires at fault, worn in a pattern dictated by a loose front end, so it seems for I seriously doubt that brand new wheels would have influenced the outcome that much. I think that if you've exhausted all paths to satisfaction, definitely look at the condition of your tires and go from there.

 

^^^ good point. Tires are almost new ... can't have more than 15k miles on them....and the Scotts' man in me has a hard time splurging on new rubber when these have so much life in them. I've seen myself on other cars I've owned what a big difference new tires can make even if they aren't worn out. However, I will rotate them and see if that helps.

Before I splurge on new rubber, I need to overhaul the cooling system.

 

Actually this was my experience too.

Did the FRONT suspension but still had that vague feeling etc.

Then I listened to forum members and did the REAR Suspension too.
Now the car drives like a dream.

I wrote the DIYs for Front and Rear in the forum.

 

I did my complete front end at only 78K, hence, it transformed the ride and handling to near new. My cost was also $1,200 for parts and I used the same ones as you. Based on what you've said, I would guess the tires could be a possible cause of this "wandering" that you describe. Rotation is a good idea to try and isolate the cause. And at 120K, your rear end may also need refurbishment. Keep us apprised of your analysis. Thanx and good luck.