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Bmw 645ci e63 vvt problems

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15K views 18 replies 2 participants last post by  ptitlilou  
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out on diagnosing the VVT motor.

I hooked my car up with INPA and RHEINGOLD and it came up with 2 codes:*2863 VVT-Power supply (bank2) &*2865- Power supply limit VVT- emergency (Limp home mode).

-I have a brand new battery put in 2 months ago and registred.
- I have a new voltage regulator on my alternator.
- I changed the VVT motor side by side but the probleme stay the same.
- I have tested my o2 sensor with INPA and the value is correct

My car always starts without a fail regardless if cold/hot start.

When I start the engine, Check engine light & EML lights up & stays lit, but without loss of power

When I switch it off & restart, check engine light remains and *EML returns for few seconds and light goes away with full power

I can drive all day without any problems as such as long as I restart the car should I switch it off.

Is it possible it was a bad valvetronic modul control (VVT ECU) localised in the e-box which is under the right side micro filter? is it possible to take a used modul of another car and put in my car without programming or is it plug and play?

Or what can be the problem?

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Hi Guys,

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out on diagnosing the VVT motor.

I hooked my car up with INPA and RHEINGOLD and it came up with 2 codes:*2863 VVT-Power supply (bank2) &*2865- Power supply limit VVT- emergency (Limp home mode).

-I have a brand new battery put in 2 months ago and registred.
- I have a new voltage regulator on my alternator.
- I changed the VVT motor side by side but the probleme stay the same.
- I have tested my o2 sensor with INPA and the value is correct

My car always starts without a fail regardless if cold/hot start.

When I start the engine, Check engine light & EML lights up & stays lit, but without loss of power

When I switch it off & restart, check engine light remains and *EML returns for few seconds and light goes away with full power

I can drive all day without any problems as such as long as I restart the car should I switch it off.

Is it possible it was a bad valvetronic modul control (VVT ECU) localised in the e-box which is under the right side micro filter? is it possible to take a used modul of another car and put in my car without programming or is it plug and play?

Or what can be the problem?

Thanks in advance
I would check your connections in the main relay box, where the module is located. If the box has been opened, the connector could have become loose. The engine will run in a set mode without the VVT system is not operating. Has anyone removed the valve covers lately, or before you purchased the car? If the module is bad, it will need to be coded. Since you have the software & cable, develop a test plan on the VVT system. It will step you thru the process to help identify your problem. You could also have a damaged wiring harness to the side that is having problems. Run the test on the VVT module, & clear the code in that ECU. This can be done from the screen showing all of the modulesin RG, & right click on the one with the problem. Some error codes must be cleared in the ECU to remove the problem.
 
#3 ·
I changed the valve covers 6 month ago without problems.
I used INPA to test the vvt and erase the fault.
But the fault return after 2 or 3 days, and when I restart the engine the fault disappears.

I am going to check all the connector and wiring harness.

But after read some same problems in this forum I deduce it coulb be:
- the vvt modul control
- the solenoid vanos
- or the eccentric camshaft sensor.

For test the eccentric camshaft sensor can I disconnect him and start the engine in order to see if the error is the same?
 
#4 ·
I have seen people have problems with plugging the cam sensors in the wrong location, & not plugging the harness back in tight. The Eccentric Shaft sensor will throw a different code, but it will run in a default value. I don't see how the Vanos Solenoids could effect the VVT system. I have seen the VVT give false codes to INPA, DIS , & RG, due to communication problems in Ediabas. A BMW tech said that this was very common. Mine never thru a CEL light, just running communications.

Did you try clearing the code in the VVT module ECU by itself?
 
#5 ·
I will try clearing the code in vvt but I don't know where is the modul in INPA? In INPA I go in "engine n62" and "error memory"

I checked my wiring and I had some oil on my camshaft sensor (driver side cylinder 5-8 it is the bank 2 Wright? ), I cleaned up this sensor and started but the fault code returned.
You think the sensor is out?

Furthermore, I have a little leak on my exhaust because I installed a x-pipe, it is possible this leak make this fault code ?
 
#6 ·
In your earlier post, you stated that you had RG. Go into the modules after running a test. Press the ECU function on the module that is either yellow or red, & test the module at that point. You can clear faults & run test directly at the module. I do not use INPA much, unless looking at raw data. I will be glad to help you get to this point, when I am online.
 
#9 ·
I have the original front section, my middle section is an x-pipe with fox middle section and the rear section is my original silencer.
The leak is just after the x-pipe and just before the silencer.
The vvt code creating a cel light when I started the motor, and if I turned off the motor and restart the cel light turns off
 
#11 · (Edited)
I checked all the harness.
I changed my camshaft sensor on driver side ( it is the bank 2 ? )
I erased the fault code with rheingold on vvt modul.
But the fault code is always present when I started engine. But if I turned off the motor and restart the engine light go out.

I dont know any more where to look. It could be the crankshaft sensor is bad?
 
#14 ·
Without repairing your problem, the VVT should run at a set default value. Have you run all of the test in RG, & is the ECU responding properly, partially, or not at all? Have tried switching the 2 camshaft sensors wiring connectors, to see if that might work. They both have the same plug connection, but they can be plugged in wrong. Try removing some of the other VVT connectors to see if you get a different code. A test plan should point you to the problem?

Try switching some connectors on Bank 1, to see what happens on that side. BMW does not make it easy to work on your car, without their help!