I am throwing this open for anyone to comment. I am picking up my new 335i at the Performance Center in two weeks. I have all week to to drive it home. If it was your car, how would you break it in? I was wondering if getting on the interstate, setting the cruise control for 1700 miles would be detrimental? Would it be better to stay off the interstate, go through some towns and vary the revs for awhile? For how long? Certainly after Del Rio on US 90 I plan to really let it loose!
Brand New 335i break in
WestTexas335
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I am throwing this open for anyone to comment. I am picking up my new 335i at the Performance Center in two weeks. I have all week to to drive it home. If it was your car, how would you break it in? I was wondering if getting on the interstate, setting the cruise control for 1700 miles would be detrimental? Would it be better to stay off the interstate, go through some towns and vary the revs for awhile? For how long? Certainly after Del Rio on US 90 I plan to really let it loose!
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11,725 Posts
First read the owner's manual which addresses your question. Keep the rpm's under 4k, vary your speed, don't avoid the highway. By the time you get home it'll be ready to rock.
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First of all, EVERYONE will agree that setting the cruise control at 1700 rpms and keeping it there is the WORST thing you can do. You NEED to vary the rpms but you can do that on the highway by constantly changing gears and speeds. If you are not willing to do that, keep off of the highway. What you wont get agreement on is how to break it in. I am a HUGE Motman technique advocate. Many will tell you to go by the manual. IMHO, if you do such, you run a high risk of having an engine that consumes oil. The manufactures don't care if you consume oil because they will almost NEVER need to address a claim for excessive oil consumption because they set the standard for excessive oil consumption so high . Why do I like the Motoman technique? Because it works. Have been using the technique for the last 15 yrs and have not had a car that uses any appreciable oil. Many who have taken my recommendation have thanked me. NO ONE, has ever come back to say that they are unhappy they used the technique OR have an engine with oil consumption issue. The technique enables the piston rings to seat COMPLETELY and QUICKLY.
Here's' what I do FROM DAY #1. 3-4 times a day , run the engine up TO THE REDLINE (just short of redline for the squeamish!). Do not EVER beat the car. Do not do such from a standing start as in a drag race. Do not do this in back to back runs. It is a controlled run up to redline FOLLOWED by lifting off the gas and allowing the car to coast back to speed without applying the brake (engine braking) . This is the most important aspect of the technique. It causes the the piston rings to be forced against the cylinder walls(which are cast iron sleeves on the 335i). After 1000 miles, there are no limitations. You will get some who say "drive it like you stole it". But remember that there are a lot of other parts that need to "WEAR IN" other than those in your engine as well as other bearing and surfaces that need to wear in in the engine. Most will tell you follow the owners manual. Its your car. You will get only one opportunity to break it in. And you will suffer the consequences of your actions or lack thereof. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Here's' what I do FROM DAY #1. 3-4 times a day , run the engine up TO THE REDLINE (just short of redline for the squeamish!). Do not EVER beat the car. Do not do such from a standing start as in a drag race. Do not do this in back to back runs. It is a controlled run up to redline FOLLOWED by lifting off the gas and allowing the car to coast back to speed without applying the brake (engine braking) . This is the most important aspect of the technique. It causes the the piston rings to be forced against the cylinder walls(which are cast iron sleeves on the 335i). After 1000 miles, there are no limitations. You will get some who say "drive it like you stole it". But remember that there are a lot of other parts that need to "WEAR IN" other than those in your engine as well as other bearing and surfaces that need to wear in in the engine. Most will tell you follow the owners manual. Its your car. You will get only one opportunity to break it in. And you will suffer the consequences of your actions or lack thereof. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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I don't understand why the factory method would cause oil consumption. This makes no sense. I'm no expert but this method has been the norm for cars of all types as long as I've been driving (36 years). I've had many new cars and I've broken them in this way and they don't burn oil.
Thanks, Mike.
Thanks, Mike.
That about sums it up. Read and follow your manual.
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I generally kept to the owners manual, and kept the RPMs under 4500 RPM and varied the RPMs. I did not keep it under a hundred though (ED 
). I never did a full throttle at any time, I just worked it up to my operating speed.
I consume no oil, and the car is two years old now.
). I never did a full throttle at any time, I just worked it up to my operating speed.I consume no oil, and the car is two years old now.
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I went about 118mph on the Autobahn while on ED but as mentioned above, I got there gradually, and not being accustomed to driving at that speed didn't really feel all that comfortable maintaining that speed on a 2 lane road with other cars wanting to go much, much faster.
I followed the owner's manual and have never had to add oil between 7500 mile oil change intervals. I'm closing in on 32K miles.
I followed the owner's manual and have never had to add oil between 7500 mile oil change intervals. I'm closing in on 32K miles.
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I claim to know nothing about the technical side of these things. I do claim to assume some amount of common sense.
After reading motoman's recommendation I have two comments:
1) I don't understand why he says you need to approach redline when it seems like engine braking from 4500 RPM would accomplish the very thing that he says is the reason behind his procedure. (more on this below)
2) If the first few miles, which really means first few minutes, are as critical has he claims, then I don't get why the manufacturer wouldn't simply perform such a procedure in the factory before releasing the car.
I admit that, given my complete lack of technical background knowledge on this topic, after reading his description it does seem plausible that the cylinder walls are initially textured and that the texture helps wear the rings to the specific shape. Can anyone here say with authority if his explanation is accurate or is off-base?
After reading motoman's recommendation I have two comments:
1) I don't understand why he says you need to approach redline when it seems like engine braking from 4500 RPM would accomplish the very thing that he says is the reason behind his procedure. (more on this below)
2) If the first few miles, which really means first few minutes, are as critical has he claims, then I don't get why the manufacturer wouldn't simply perform such a procedure in the factory before releasing the car.
I admit that, given my complete lack of technical background knowledge on this topic, after reading his description it does seem plausible that the cylinder walls are initially textured and that the texture helps wear the rings to the specific shape. Can anyone here say with authority if his explanation is accurate or is off-base?
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I read the break-in recommendations in the manual. They seemed accurate and reasonable to me, so I followed them.
However when it comes to fluid life spans, BMW and I have a disparity of opinion.
However when it comes to fluid life spans, BMW and I have a disparity of opinion.
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Here's a good article written for motorcycles, but the same principles apply to a car. It has some good pictorial examples. However, the author doesn't seem to know anything about modern day synthetics:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
It explains why heavy loads are important during break in. It also explains what can happen if you let the engine get too hot during break-in, and also the results of light loads during break-in, "For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs."
I think there's a fine line between driving a vehicle hard during break-in and driving too hard for too long thus creating too much heat and thus engine damage, but driving it too easy is dangerous also. This is probably why manufacturer's recommend such a conservative break-in procedure, because the average consumer is either too ignorant or too careless to execute the best procedure properly. And, of course, why we have warning labels on just about every car part.
The above article is similar to what the engineers at the Regensburg plant recommended to me. It's also similar to what some of the best engineers in the country told me when I worked with them in one of the most renowned engine testing facilities in the world. Drive it hard under controlled conditions with short bursts to redline and let off quickly so the engine can cool down. Drive a various speeds and don't use the cruise control.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
It explains why heavy loads are important during break in. It also explains what can happen if you let the engine get too hot during break-in, and also the results of light loads during break-in, "For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs."
I think there's a fine line between driving a vehicle hard during break-in and driving too hard for too long thus creating too much heat and thus engine damage, but driving it too easy is dangerous also. This is probably why manufacturer's recommend such a conservative break-in procedure, because the average consumer is either too ignorant or too careless to execute the best procedure properly. And, of course, why we have warning labels on just about every car part.
The above article is similar to what the engineers at the Regensburg plant recommended to me. It's also similar to what some of the best engineers in the country told me when I worked with them in one of the most renowned engine testing facilities in the world. Drive it hard under controlled conditions with short bursts to redline and let off quickly so the engine can cool down. Drive a various speeds and don't use the cruise control.
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+1. Well said.
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Hi Jeff. I can say with authority.
The pattern you are describing on the cylinder wall is called cross hatching. It is honed into the finished bore by a special abrasive which is moved up and down so as to create a 45 degree angle to the bore. The pattern is in both a 45 deg down as well as a 45 deg up angle since the tool is kept running while going up as well as down. There is a roughness scale called the RMS (root mean square) scale used to describe roughness. This cross hatching barely makes the scale and cannot catch a fingernail but it is visually obvious.
The purpose of the cross hatching is to HOLD THE OIL which gets on the cylinder wall as a vapor and as splash from the sump. Without the oil the piston rings would quickly wear out the cylinder bore as their Rockwell C hardness far exceeds the cylinder hardness. Well manintained engines with over 150,000 miles still have a good cross hatch pattern.
The lowermost ring on every piston ever made is called the oil scraper ring. It's purpose is to remove EXCESSIVE oil. The cross hatch pattern holds sufficient oil to lubricate the compression rings.
All rings constantly rotate on the piston, they have to or the gap in them would score the cylinder wall. If a ring sticks in its groove mechanical unhappiness will follow.
I am not going to step into the 'do it like BMW says' vs. 'do it like the internet says' debate except to say this: I am a mechanical engineer by education. I am a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), and a past section officer of The American Society for Quality Control (ASQC). I am an ASE certified Master Technician and hold additional certs in Advanced levels. I have over 32 years engine rebuilding and maintenance experience. I broke my engine in according to BMW's recommendations.
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Thanks for all the advice. If anyone else wants to put in their two cents, I***8217;m still listening. I think I will follow the BMW recommendations. I may even stop in Houston for an oil change (about 1500). I know it***8217;s not required for a 335, but it is for an M, and if it***8217;s good enough for an M, it***8217;s good enough for me.
Ha ha ha
I didn't do the 1,500 mile oil change though I did think about it too.
In general I just followed the rule of staying below 4500 prm, but ignored the 100mph rule. But that was because I was in Germany on the autobahn and I "had to" at least break 100. I was hard not to try and break 150.
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I did my first oil change at 1211 miles (right after break-in), I changed my oil every 5000 miles after that break-in period and still do. Since I plan on keeping the car for 6-8 years I consider it a good idea.
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Break-In not just for the cylinder walls
In my amateur opinion of what I know of machinery:
All mechanical bearing surfaces need 'breaking in' to develop 'wear patterns' to give normal working life usage. Essentially, the surfaces that bear on each other have micro surface structures when new. Some of which 'stick up' higher than the average surface and are sheered off during break in. (This is why some people suggest an oil change after break in) Also, bearing surfaces are not necessarily evenly loaded, although they should be in a well engineered machine, so some bearing areas get more 'break in' then others. Eventually the load is well supported by the lubricant, oils usually, as the high micro spots are worn down. The machine is then 'broken in'. During the break in excessive loading of bearing surfaces will cause excessive contact between the 'high spots' thus producing excess friction and 'scoring'. This usually leaves 'score marks' which are continual high friction spots. Thus the working life of the machine is reduced as the high friction score marks cause accelerated wear of the bearing surfaces.
So, bearings throughout the engine and drive line need to break in. But, because the rings are a unique kind of bearing that moves along the cylinder walls in a sliding motion, most of the break in is concerned with these components.
In my amateur opinion of what I know of machinery:
All mechanical bearing surfaces need 'breaking in' to develop 'wear patterns' to give normal working life usage. Essentially, the surfaces that bear on each other have micro surface structures when new. Some of which 'stick up' higher than the average surface and are sheered off during break in. (This is why some people suggest an oil change after break in) Also, bearing surfaces are not necessarily evenly loaded, although they should be in a well engineered machine, so some bearing areas get more 'break in' then others. Eventually the load is well supported by the lubricant, oils usually, as the high micro spots are worn down. The machine is then 'broken in'. During the break in excessive loading of bearing surfaces will cause excessive contact between the 'high spots' thus producing excess friction and 'scoring'. This usually leaves 'score marks' which are continual high friction spots. Thus the working life of the machine is reduced as the high friction score marks cause accelerated wear of the bearing surfaces.
So, bearings throughout the engine and drive line need to break in. But, because the rings are a unique kind of bearing that moves along the cylinder walls in a sliding motion, most of the break in is concerned with these components.
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When i took delivery of my 335i i asked a friend how i should drive it off the lot, he said; and i quote "Flog the **** out of it...."
Needless to say I followed the manual and didn't let it get above 4500RPM, with one exception (i got a little excited). I have not had any problems
I am also a firm believer in the every 6month or 5k oil change since i'm keeping my 335i for a very long time.
Needless to say I followed the manual and didn't let it get above 4500RPM, with one exception (i got a little excited). I have not had any problems
I am also a firm believer in the every 6month or 5k oil change since i'm keeping my 335i for a very long time.
I typically break in new cars the same way I plan to drive them... HARD. Redline multiple times a day, full throttle from a stop, etc... It makes no sense to me why you would impose a rpm limit once the car has been run for a bit at the factory. The engine will see much different forces and dynamics above 4500 rpms so why not break it in the way you plan to drive it.
Just FYI, when I had my 2003 Cobra the owner's manual said in modern cars break-in is not needed since tolerances are much tighter now then they used to be and the cars are tested at the factory... I have never had any engine issues or oil consumption issues or longevity issues in any of the vehicles I have bought new including my 12 sec. Cobras... Just my .02, it is your car, make your own decision...
Just FYI, when I had my 2003 Cobra the owner's manual said in modern cars break-in is not needed since tolerances are much tighter now then they used to be and the cars are tested at the factory... I have never had any engine issues or oil consumption issues or longevity issues in any of the vehicles I have bought new including my 12 sec. Cobras... Just my .02, it is your car, make your own decision...
After this post by DSXMachina, I don't understand how there's any doubt left as to how to break-in your car. Seriously, does anybody listen to reason anymore? :dunno:
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