# Burger Motorsports JBD Opinion



## DaveN007 (Oct 4, 2013)

I have read everything I can get my hands on. Consensus seems to be that installing at default setting of roughly 60 percent means trouble free operation (no CELs) especially if you wait until car is warmed up before you apply WOT.

I don't want the hassle of clearing codes.

But your opinions and comments are of interest to me.


----------



## riskybz (Sep 23, 2010)

Ran JBD for 3 years in my 335d.
Set it at about 70% and never had a problem, just extra HP!!
Put it in and have fun.

RISKYBZ


----------



## 335dFan (Nov 8, 2012)

For the first several months I ran the JBD at the factory setting; about 60%. No issues. Then at 80% for a week or so, then 90%, and finally at 100%, which is where it has stayed. I have had only one limp mode; it happened at 100% at 7k+ft elevation (Pagosa Springs), whether that is relevant or not I can't say. I was leaving a car wash where I had spent about 15-20 minutes. Pulled out into traffic, right turn, up a 6% grade, and goosed it a bit to get out in front of a truck with a trailer. Reduced power. Was not a safety issue for me that time. I limped back to the hotel a few miles away at legal speeds. Turned it off. Read the codes; cleared the codes; read the codes again. It was no big deal actually, although the first time you hope you do it right, just like putting it on and taking it off. Having said all that, I am prudent about always warming the car up, and that even includes situations like I described where the car was not actually cold, but hadn't been running for 15-20 minutes. I am not a regular hot rod, but I don't think I'll ever set it back to lower than 100%. As has been said in other threads (and maybe recently), I think the 335d's fuel application management is smoother without the JBD. With the JBD it is a bit more, how do I say it, uneven, harder to modulate, etc. Even without the JBD I had trouble on the wet skid pad applying power smoothly. When trying to kick the rear end out to induce oversteer on the wet skid pad, it is real hard for me to do it smoothly. Thus the wet skid pad is kind of a challenge for me, because I am often unable to catch it in time with the appropriate "reverse lock" application. Perhaps the old youthful reactions are just not there anymore. Embarrassing to say the least. One of those cases where the muscle memory on what to do is still there, but the muscles are activating as well anymore. Sorry, a bit off the JBD topic. It's on my mind with 2 Nov HPDE coming up.

I always keep the scan tool plugged in. And I always have the appropriate tools with me, plus instructions, to remove/install the JBD plus do any necessary adjustments. Got that idea from FormerRotor.


----------



## DaveN007 (Oct 4, 2013)

Thanks for your votes.


----------



## riskybz (Sep 23, 2010)

Look on the Burger Tuning website. Should have all the info you need to use the CAN Tool.
Clear the codes and try it again!!


----------



## DaveN007 (Oct 4, 2013)

Great feedback. I'll consider it.


----------



## 335dFan (Nov 8, 2012)

I can't give you much advice for using the CAN tool other than follow the written instructions. It's a little obscure but works as advertised.

Regarding the rough engine, the only thing I can think perhaps is that the connection for the two JBD connectors to the male and female BMW parts that you had to disconnect is not solid. It should definitely click into place and be real hard to get back apart. Did you take out the white spacer item when you pulled apart the BMW connectors? You don't need that with the JBD, and you really don't need it when you take the JBD off and put the two BMW ends back together. 

Like I say, the connection with the JBD cable ends should be very snug, tight, and click into place. And then you have to depress one plastic part to get it apart. If it is easy to get apart, I would think you hadn't put it together properly.

Just guessing from afar and from my experience. Never had the experience you are having.

Mine was drive-able in limp mode. You just don't have much power.


----------



## DaveN007 (Oct 4, 2013)

We'll see what the shop says. Maybe I will do this after that.


----------



## 335dFan (Nov 8, 2012)

Pm me your email and I will send you the instructions. Yes you can erase the codes. Doubt you have dorked up your baby. 


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app


----------



## 335dFan (Nov 8, 2012)

Don't wait too long. It 's late back here. 


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app


----------



## Hoooper (Jun 17, 2013)

You just hold the button down for one second on the CANtool to clear the codes. I have only had success while the car is running but I think you can do it with the car off. Make sure you wait long enough after turning the car on before doing it or it won't work.

Also, I run my JBD at 100% all the time without issue. The only trick to not throwing codes is to let the engine warm up enough first, which you should be doing anyway.


----------



## White D (May 18, 2013)

Double check your connections. Make sure they are connected all the way. Do this with the JBD both on and off. Im betting this is your problem. And for sure clear the codes before taking to your dealership, if it fixes the problem you save yourself a lot of time, and potential money.
And I agree, make sure engine is warmed up before any hard acceleration. At 100% Ive had engine light one time when I didn't follow this.


----------



## Axel61 (Mar 10, 2011)

RENNtech enough said!! LOL, sorry your having problems with JB not all cars can handle it appropriately as I see it, good luck. Hope your issues are resolved or call Terry for any feedback


----------



## Hoooper (Jun 17, 2013)

I dont think there is any variation in how JBD can be handled in different cars, I think there is a massive variation in how different owners treat their cars. The engine MUST be warmed up before asking the turbos to spool all the way up, its important for the life of the engine, important for the life of the turbos especially, and if you have a JBD important for not getting limp mode. I suspect our cars have protection against overpressure of the oil in the turbo like N54s (and probably N55) have which is contributing to the limp mode at 100%.


----------



## EMPTYKIM (Sep 24, 2013)

DaveN007 said:


> There are no written instructions. The link on the site that appears to be instructions is a link to a page with a couple of videos.
> 
> The instructions for install refer to the spacer applying only to JBD's before 2013.
> 
> ...


Any luck? Did you take your car to the dealer?


----------



## taibanl (Oct 3, 2010)

DaveN007 said:


> Great feedback so far...so I said "What the heck" and pulled off my engine cover. (after opening the hood, locking the doors and trunk and putting the key inside the house...and waiting ten minutes.) Aside from that last idiotic engine cover bolt the install was a piece of cake. I confirmed that it was at 60 percent. Plugged in everything nice and tightly. Put the cover back on.
> 
> Tried to start the car.
> 
> ...


You have to really work the plugs to get a very tight connection.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app


----------



## DaveN007 (Oct 4, 2013)

Cool.


----------



## EMPTYKIM (Sep 24, 2013)

Sorry to keep bumping this but I'm also considering the JBD. Any updates Dave?


----------



## nuclearbeef (Dec 19, 2012)

I had the JBD installed for awhile. It definitely made a noticeable difference in power and acceleration; however, I took it back off, and here's why.

1) It dropped my MPG by about 2 under the same conditions.
2) It made the engine noticeably coarser at idle and under VERY light load. (not noticeable at highway speeds or under acceleration)
3) I rarely use all 265 horses. Almost never wish I had more.
4) Still under extended warranty. 

I never had any problems with it. No SES lights. No limp mode. (only ran it at 70%, however)
I'll probably reinstall it when I hit 100k miles.


----------



## Hoooper (Jun 17, 2013)

nuclearbeef said:


> I had the JBD installed for awhile. It definitely made a noticeable difference in power and acceleration; however, I took it back off, and here's why.
> 
> 1) It dropped my MPG by about 2 under the same conditions.


hand calculated, or computer? I run mine at 100% and have no MPG loss but my dash numbers are slightly less optimistic than before


----------

