# Another project "HACKED"...Autodimming rearview mirror



## The HACK (Dec 19, 2001)

Kaz said:


> *
> 
> But a disconnected non-dimming mirror still costs the same as one that works.
> 
> I think you need new weatherstrip... *


Yeah, tell me something I don't know.

I'm trying to find a way to weasel my service department into fixing it for free. Joanne's car needs a new door strip too. 

Hey, I finally got Raffi's short shift kit to stop making a noise when it's in gear...It turns out the missing screw on the ERK made that big of a difference. However, now his shifter is making a soft, plasticky rattling sound as he changes gear. I remember you had SOME issues with that as well...Did you ever properly get that resolved?

I guess I can always just search the archives.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

My SSK action is pretty much perfect now. No clunks, no wooshing, and really minor noise transmission. Had to take the top half of the lever apart completely, and hopefully it'll never have to come apart again.

I don't know if the more recent production change changes the noises it makes, but here's how mine is:

Take the sucker apart. There is a hex setscrew on the front of the lever behind a sticker or a gob of silicone that needs to back most of the way out (you can remove it but there's no need). Use a 24mm wrench or channellocks and loosen the bottom 'nut' till its completely free. The upper lever should pull off. Heck, the 2nd time I left the knob on and pulled it off with the boot as an assembly. There will be 2 orange silicone rubber pieces. One is a tube about 1.25in long, and the other is a cap that SHOULD be attached to the shaft that remains sticking out of the console. If its not there, its lodged in the part you just removed. It may take a little effort to take both pieces out of the upper lever. Clean everything, especially the inside of the cap and the top of the stub.

Now for reassembly. Make sure that lower nut is on the stub. Slide the tube on. Use some sort of adhesive to attach the cap to the top of the stub. I used JBWeld the first time and it fell off after a couple weeks, so I went with CA the 2nd time, and its held up so far.

Now the stub should have the nut, tube and cap on in that order. Slide the upper lever on. This might take a bit of wiggling around, since its a pretty close fit. Just make sure that cap is really on, or else it'll fall off while you're doing this. Aline the hole with the setscrew with the groove on the front of the stub, making sure the rubber tube is far down enough to not block the hole. Thread the nut back into the upper lever, but not tight. Adjust the height of the lever to your liking (mine is 'stock', i.e. all the way up), tighten the setscrew until the setscrew is riding in the groove, enough that the lever won't pop off, but not tight tight down to the stub, or else it will transmit noise. Tighten the lower nut till the lever is solid.

Enjoy!


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