# Do Drilled Rotors Really Make A Huge Difference?



## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

Kaz said:


> See, these are the posts I hate the most. The person very clearly already has their mind set on getting something. All they want is affirmation that they are doing the 'right thing' and when people say no, they get all pissy.
> 
> If you are asking for OPINIONS on something, don't get all bent when they're different than yours, especially if your mind is already made up.
> 
> Morons.


I love it...the guy thinks he knows it all, but each post is more evidence of how clueless he really is.


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

Edited due to false response... :thumbdwn:


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## marbro (Jun 26, 2004)

*99 BMW 328i x-Drilled Rotors*

About a year ago I installed Zimmerman (spelling?) X-Drilled rotors and some metallic brake pads on the front of my BMW 328i with 17'' Stock Rims.

The Good: The rotors look great!! Virtually no break dust. (I used to have to clean my rims all the time especially the front... with stock breaks on the back the back actually gets dirty quicker than the front.) I notice a little better bite at the last few feet when breaking. They last a lot longer. Since I have harder break pads the break pads seem to be lasting longer than the stock pads. Since, the harder break pads produce more heat the drilled rotors keep the rotor from warping.

The Bad: The Rotors look a little rusty, you can only see it on the hub and have to get right up in there to tell.

If your looking for better braking, save your money cause you won't notice much of a difference.

For me, I liked them so much that about 3 months ago I installed them on the rear. Now I barely ever have to wash my rims....That alone is worth it for me. They look awesome too!

Note, make sure you get drilled rotors that aren't really drilled they are manufactured with the holes already in them, that way they won't crack.

lol


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## Slowin_Fastout (Aug 2, 2004)

doeboy said:


> :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:


Before the bashing gets out of hand, I fabricated the quoted response. Sorry.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

SergioK said:


> I'm not so sure about slotted rotors being worse for wear. I think it's pad dependent more than anything.


For any given pad, slotted rotors will increase the wear rate due to the slot "carving" the pads during braking.

I have seen some reports of increased pad wear from x-drilled rotors, but there would have to be a LOT of holes for that to really make a difference, IMO.

The best thing you can do to a BMW in the braking department is to change to pads with less dust.

Axxis Deluxe, Mintex Red Box are the pads I use for street. Low dust levels, good braking torque/pedal feel. What dust there is, is light colored so not obvious at all.

Unless you track and are fast, all the rest are for looks.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Slowin_Fastout said:


> Before the bashing gets out of hand, I fabricated the quoted response. Sorry.


 :slap:


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

Slowin_Fastout said:


> Before the bashing gets out of hand, I fabricated the quoted response. Sorry.


 :doh:

Funny, but :nono:


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> For any given pad, slotted rotors will increase the wear rate due to the slot "carving" the pads during braking.


I ran Pagid Blue/Orange pads with my StopTech BBK. The kit went on at about 27k miles and the rotors lasted about 33k miles. I would swap out the pads between street/track respectively. Between those 33k miles, the car saw at least 25 track days with many daily spirited drives.

Maybe with some 'cheaper' pads the slotted rotors may increase wear but slotted rotors did not adversely affect the pad life of the Pagids I was using.

Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?


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## StevzZ3 (Apr 30, 2002)

*Bs*



Slowin_Fastout said:


> :thumbup:


Wow, this place is as bad as the 'fly. I see why Ron S. does not like a few of you!.
The same old stuff about brake rotors. I thought he made it clear to people, this guy did not track or auto-x. The rotors are fine for driving. Look for these same posts every time, cracking being number one. I hope you all know that ANY rotor can and has broken. It gets the cracks also, you have to look at them real close. Any metal will do the same thing if subjected to temp. changes daily.


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

StevzZ3 said:


> Wow, this place is as bad as the 'fly. I see why Ron S. does not like a few of you!


who is Ron S.?

:dunno:


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

StevzZ3 said:


> Wow, this place is as bad as the 'fly. I see why Ron S. does not like a few of you!.
> The same old stuff about brake rotors. I thought he made it clear to people, this guy did not track or auto-x. The rotors are fine for driving. Look for these same posts every time, cracking being number one. I hope you all know that ANY rotor can and has broken. It gets the cracks also, you have to look at them real close. Any metal will do the same thing if subjected to temp. changes daily.


I never said they will only crack on the track.

And you are talking about the little surface cracks that almost every rotor gets, especially if overheated.

X-drilled rotors CRACK, like all the way through the rotor surface into the vent portion. Like is potentially breaking chunks out. Not to mention aweful looking.

X-drilled rotors look great, do nothing for stopping, and have a shorter potential life.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

SergioK said:


> I ran Pagid Blue/Orange pads with my StopTech BBK. The kit went on at about 27k miles and the rotors lasted about 33k miles. I would swap out the pads between street/track respectively. Between those 33k miles, the car saw at least 25 track days with many daily spirited drives.
> 
> Maybe with some 'cheaper' pads the slotted rotors may increase wear but slotted rotors did not adversely affect the pad life of the Pagids I was using.
> 
> Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?


How long did a set of pads last? Street and track?


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## SMKU (May 29, 2004)

*Lol*



elbert said:


> I love it...the guy thinks he knows it all, but each post is more evidence of how clueless he really is.



THIS THREAD MAKES ME LAUGH HARDER EACH TIME I CHECK IT. SOME OF YOU REALLY NEED TO REREAD THE THREAD. I ASKED FOR OPINIONS AND I GUESS I GOT THEM, LOL. CLUELESS, HUH, HOW ABOUT YOU SHARE SOME OF YOUR BMW WISDOM WITH ME.......YOUR MAJESTY. TO THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE REAL INFO. PERTAINING TO MY QUESTION, THANKS. :thumbup:


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

doeboy said:


> Where's that quote from? I wanna read more


http://www.wilwood.com 

fwiw, the only reason anyone is selling drilled/slotted rotors for the street is because misperception or not the people who are forking out the money honestly believe they need those features and if the manufcaturer doesn't provide them they buy somewhere else, it's a pretty f'd up situation :tsk:

fwiw, the hot lightweight option now is scalloped rotors, truely light and functional, I'm planning a set on the STX M3 :eeps: only for medium heat applications though










competition solid rotor disc 11#
competition drilled rotor disc 7.8#
competition scalloped rotor disc 5.4#


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

TeamZ4 said:


> http://www.wilwood.com
> 
> fwiw, the only reason anyone is selling drilled/slotted rotors for the street is because misperception or not the people who are forking out the money honestly believe they need those features and if the manufcaturer doesn't provide them they buy somewhere else, it's a pretty f'd up situation :tsk:
> 
> ...


Cool thanks for the link.

:yikes: that's a weird looking rotor.... Have you seen these also weird looking ZMI titanium ones?


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## Galun (Aug 14, 2002)

doeboy said:


> Cool thanks for the link.
> 
> :yikes: that's a weird looking rotor.... Have you seen these also weird looking ZMI titanium ones?


Comes with a carrying case too. Yeah baby. :supdude: :bling:


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Galun said:


> Comes with a carrying case too. Yeah baby. :supdude: :bling:


You gonna get a set? :bigpimp:


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Upgrading the rotors isn't going to do **** for your stopping power unless you're upgrading other things as well. If you want to do it for the bling factor, go for it. But it isn't going to make you car stop faster.

The real problem with the M3 is that the calipers are pieces of garbage. Below about 70 or so, it doesn't make any difference what brakes you have. You're purely traction limited. But anyone who's stomped on the brakes at 145MPH in the M3 can tell you that they suck. And the uneven pad wear is also annoying.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

I don't think they suck at 145 MPH. And you know I have done it.

Good pads (I use Cool Willys on the track) and they work quite well.

Add the BimmerWorld bushing kit and they work better.

Could they work better still, absolutely, but they do work well at very high speeds.


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

Galun said:


> Comes with a carrying case too.


nope, that's just carrying the payment


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> I don't think they suck at 145 MPH. And you know I have done it.
> 
> Good pads (I use Cool Willys on the track) and they work quite well.
> 
> ...


 The difficulty they have hauling the car down from 145MPH relative to cars with better brakes is pretty substantial.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

I didn't have any problems at the Glen. ANd they worked well enough to scare the instructor as to how deep I could go and even then slow up too much.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> I didn't have any problems at the Glen. ANd they worked well enough to scare the instructor as to how deep I could go and even then slow up too much.


Virtually every instructor I've ever had (except for an SCCA racer who owned an E46 M3) has wanted me to brake WELL before I need to. I'm still quite disappointed with the brakes on the car. They just don't have an easy time hauling the car down.


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## Alex Baumann (Dec 19, 2001)

Nick325xiT 5spd said:


> ... cars with better brakes is pretty substantial.


For example ?


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Alex Baumann said:


> For example ?


 Porkchops, cars with BBKs... The uneven wear caused by the single piston design is also annoying.


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## ·clyde· (Dec 26, 2001)

Slowin_Fastout said:


> Before the bashing gets out of hand, I fabricated the quoted response. Sorry.


No need to apologize, HACK! :thumbup:


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## FlyingDutchMan (Jul 18, 2003)

Short answer NO


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Nick325xiT 5spd said:


> Porkchops, cars with BBKs... The uneven wear caused by the single piston design is also annoying.


Based on what criteria?

If the brakes can kick in ABS, then you will not get any better stopping with any other brakes. YOu only gain fade resistance.


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## SMKU (May 29, 2004)

elbert said:


> I love it...the guy thinks he knows it all, but each post is more evidence of how clueless he really is.


 LAY OFF THE ROCK, I never took the stance that I knew it all, thanks for your great reply, I thought I would post one of equal value for you.....to chew on. Goodluck!


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> Based on what criteria?
> 
> If the brakes can kick in ABS, then you will not get any better stopping with any other brakes. YOu only gain fade resistance.


 With rear track pads in, I get lots of ABS activation. But it's ALL in the rear. With track pads installed only in front, I get no ABS at high speed. At all.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Must be your choice of track pads. Running Cool Willy's all around I get pretty even ABS even when braking from 130+.

Are you using the same compound front and rear?


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> Must be your choice of track pads. Running Cool Willy's all around I get pretty even ABS even when braking from 130+.
> 
> Are you using the same compound front and rear?


 I was, not again though. It's obvious the M3 can't handle much braking power in the back.

But that doesn't change the fact that Hawk HT-10s and PFC-97s are unable to lock up my fronts at speed.

Of course, it occurs to me that I run one hell of a lot more tire than you do, which may explain why I think the brakes suck, and you like them. I've also gotten to the point where I need a dedicated set of track rotors. My front rotor is now so badly cracked and worn that I'm not entirely conviced it's safe to take back out to the track.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

I should note that with R-tires, you get far more weight shifted forward than you would with street tires. Obviously, this will heavily influence braking bias as well.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

I was running Michelin Pilot Sport Cups, 265, all around at VIR and had no problems.

You need to try the Cool Willys or PFC01s. With Cool Willys on the Cups under HARD braking going into turn 1 some dancing of the rear, but when I did get into ABS it was pretty evenly.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

PFC01s are next on my list after I burn through what I've got.


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