# DIY: Aluminum Pedal Install



## LuxeFilms (Jul 24, 2011)

Hi Everyone!
I just purchased a CPO'd 2007 E92 and am getting started on my mods right away! After seeing some pics online, I decided i wanted my first mod to be the aluminum pedal upgrade to match my aluminum trim interior. I wanted to make a little post about my adventures with the install in hopes that someone will be able to benefit from it.

This was done on a 2007 E92 with automatic transmission (no clutch pedal), but should be able to use the same procedure for the manual transmission.

I purchased BMW OEM pedals from getbmwparts.com, paid $174 for all pedals shipped.
*Accelerator & Brake Pedal*
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...fo&PartID=485372&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462
*Dead Pedal*
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...fo&PartID=437138&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462

*Equipment Needed*
Drill
5/32 Cobalt Drill Bit (for heavy metals and steel)
7/54 Drill Bit
Torx driver set (T-15 & T-20)
7mm Nut Driver or Wrench
Tape (I used gaffers tape, doesn't leave residue)
C-clamp

- First of all, don't forget to turn off your dome light when opening the driver door. The install takes about 1-1.5hrs...wouldn't want your battery to die.

- Using your hand, remove the rubber pad from the existing brake pedal, feel free to throw it away.

Note: Each pedal in the set I ordered had 2 pieces, the aluminum pedal and the rubber insert. I've seen threads where people recommended using the aluminum pedal as a template to drill the holes and to initially seat all the screws, then recommend removing the screws, pairing the rubber insert with the aluminum pedal and then re screw it in for the final seating. After inspecting the plastic, I decided that I wasn't a giant fan of trying to seat the screws in the same hole twice. I was a little concerned about it jeopardizing the strength of the hold so i decided to make all screw seatings first and final.

Note #2: The kit comes with self seating screws as well as screws with nuts. Notice...use only the self seating screws on the plastic pedals (accelerator & dead pedal), and use only the screws with nuts on the brake pedal.

Here we go...

*Dead Pedal:* I started with the dead pedal first. Place the new aluminum dead pedal with rubber insert over the existing plastic pedal. You'll notice that the existing plastic pedal is slightly wider than the new aluminum one. That's ok, just line it up to your liking. Once i was happy with the alignment i used gaff tape to hold it in place. I then used my drill with the 7/54 bit to make my first hole through one of the center holes in the aluminum pedal. I then seated the first screw using the T-15 Torx. Next, I drilled another hole through the other center hole in the aluminum pedal and seated that screw. I then follow the same procedure for the bottom 2 holes. At this point the pedal is pretty secure.

Before doing this, I saw many threads about people having a hard time getting access to the top screw points of the dead pedal. I did as well initially, but here's what i did to make it easier. Remove the 3 screws from the dash right under your steering wheel using the T-20 Torx. Once all 3 screws are removed, pull the piece straight out towards you and slightly down. This will make that dash piece drop. You do have to put a little force behind it when pulling but be careful not to pull it too hard or too far. There are cables connected to it that only have a 4 or 5 inch reach. Once i dropped the panel a few inches, I was able to get my hand and drill in position to finish the last 2 screws. After that, I put the panel back in place, removed the tape from the pedal and was finished with the dead pedal!

*Accelerator Pedal:* I used the same method on the accelerator pedal. I lined up the new aluminum pedal with rubber insert over the existing pedal. Once i felt good about the positioning i used gaff tape around both pedals to hold them together and in place. Just like the dead pedal, i used the 7/54 drill bit, drilled my first hole and then set the first screw using the T-15 Torx. I continued to work my way around to all 4 holes following this method. Accelerator pedal done!

*Brake Pedal* The install on the brake pedal was slightly different. First of all, when taping the aluminum pedal with rubber insert to the existing steel pedal, i recommend double checking your alignment before drilling because there isn't much room for error. You also have to put quite a bit of pressure on the pedal when drilling so make sure the aluminum pedal is taped on securely so it doesn't move. I ended up using a C-clamp to reinforce mine and it worked perfectly.

First, i pumped the brake a coupe times to fill the lines so that the pedal wouldn't move much when putting pressure on it. I then confirmed proper alignment of the new aluminum pedal with rubber insert. I made sure the new aluminum pedal was being held on very tightly and securely (C-clamp). I put a towel down on the floor underneath the pedal because it gets a little messy. I use my drill with the 5/32 Cobalt Heavy Metal bit and drilled the first hole. It really doesn't matter which of the 4 holes you start with. Just apply firm pressure until you drill all the way through the pedal. Once i finished the first hole, i put a screw with a nut in place. I only finger tightened the first nut. I repeated this process for the other 3 holes, screws, and nuts. Once all 4 screws/nuts were in place, i removed the C-clamp and tape. Then using the T-15 Torx and 7mm wrench (I used crescent wrench) i went around and evenly tightened all screws. Double check to make sure they are all very tight. This is not the pedal you want issues with on the road.

All done! Took it for a test spin and all is great!

I love the new look it has given my interior. A great mod for the price. If anyone else is doing this mod, please post pictures so we can see them!

Hope this helps!


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## chillycheung (May 16, 2012)

Thx for sharing.. I am thinking of DIY this as well...


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## gajidy (Aug 11, 2012)

Thank you! This will really help!


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