# sub amp remote-on wire question...



## tsbrown (Apr 25, 2003)

I've hooked up my aftermarket sub amp with the power connected directly to the battery + terminal, the negative grounded to the steel body underside of the package shelf, and the remote-on tapped into the white remote-on wire to the HK sub amp (on my 330i w/HK audio).

My problem is the amp won't power on. I've verified the amp is getting power by using a circuit continuity test light between the power and ground terminals, but connecting the continuity test light between the power and the remote-on terminal yields no light when the stereo head unit is on. Should it? I've checked the connection at the tap into the white wire and it's good. What am I missing?

Thanks. Tom


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## CWolfey (Apr 1, 2003)

You will need to use a mutli meter and test for VDC verify 12-14 volts on the Main power wire, then check the white remote lead for the same when radio is on.

The continuity tester will not work for testing this, unless it is a 12 volt test light in which case you need to put 1 clip on the ground and the other on the remote to test for 12 volts, not the power and remote.


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

tsbrown said:


> I've hooked up my aftermarket sub amp with the power connected directly to the battery + terminal, the negative grounded to the steel body underside of the package shelf, and the remote-on tapped into the white remote-on wire to the HK sub amp (on my 330i w/HK audio).
> 
> My problem is the amp won't power on. I've verified the amp is getting power by using a circuit continuity test light between the power and ground terminals, but connecting the continuity test light between the power and the remote-on terminal yields no light when the stereo head unit is on. Should it? I've checked the connection at the tap into the white wire and it's good. * What am I missing?*
> 
> Thanks. Tom


The HK sub amp remote white wire is a low voltage turn on (9 volts), it will not turn on your aftermarket amp which requires a 12 volts turn on level. Use the white wire from the HK main amp... :thumbup:


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## tsbrown (Apr 25, 2003)

CWolfey said:


> You will need to use a mutli meter and test for VDC verify 12-14 volts on the Main power wire, then check the white remote lead for the same when radio is on.
> 
> The continuity tester will not work for testing this, unless it is a 12 volt test light in which case you need to put 1 clip on the ground and the other on the remote to test for 12 volts, not the power and remote.


It's for 5-50V, not the higher rated voltage like for house wiring. This should work right?


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## tsbrown (Apr 25, 2003)

Technic said:


> The HK sub amp remote white wire is a low voltage turn on (9 volts), it will not turn on your aftermarket amp which requires a 12 volts turn on level. Use the white wire from the HK main amp... :thumbup:


Do you know which pinout this is on the grey or black main amp connector? I don't have immediate access to my pinout connector list for this.


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

tsbrown said:


> Do you know which pinout this is on the grey or black main amp connector? I don't have immediate access to my pinout connector list for this.





> Grey ½ of connector
> Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
> Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
> Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
> ...


http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e46m3/forum.php?postid=2786337&page=10


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## tsbrown (Apr 25, 2003)

Technic said:


> http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e46m3/forum.php?postid=2786337&page=10


Thanks for the reply...so I'm looking for the white wire into pin #10 in the grey connector?

Sorry it's taken a while to respond...between business travel and the holidays, it's been a busy month.

Edit 1/1/05: Yep, it's the white wire into #10 pin...finally I have real bass again in my Bimmer! And now that my XMDirect is hooked up I have tons of new music too.


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## DonGillis (Jul 29, 2004)

*Aftermarket Sub Problem (& possible fixes)*

Some SUBs have a handy built-in circuit that detects an audio signal before powering on -- and of course keeps the power on for a while after the audio is off (i.e. radio off, car turned off, etc...). This might be your problem. Indeed in some of the best Subs (e.g. BassLink) the "Power" pilot light will be off if the circuit does not detect an audio signal. Also check this -- there should be a switch on the SUB that select between the 'white wire method' and the audio signal detect method; be sure you got that switch selected right. For sure use a voltmeter (not a continuity tester) to be sure you get +12V and a good ground; test right at the SUB's terminals. Subs use a lot of power (usually > 200W) so you need a really good power and ground connection.



tsbrown said:


> I've hooked up my aftermarket sub amp with the power connected directly to the battery + terminal, the negative grounded to the steel body underside of the package shelf, and the remote-on tapped into the white remote-on wire to the HK sub amp (on my 330i w/HK audio).
> 
> My problem is the amp won't power on. I've verified the amp is getting power by using a circuit continuity test light between the power and ground terminals, but connecting the continuity test light between the power and the remote-on terminal yields no light when the stereo head unit is on. Should it? I've checked the connection at the tap into the white wire and it's good. What am I missing?
> 
> Thanks. Tom


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