# 1993 325i on eBay : Is this a good deal for a track car?



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

I've been thinking about getting an e36 325i for a track car. I found this 1993 BMW 325i on eBay with 175,000 miles. The guy wants $5,000 for it. The car is local in my area so I wouldn't have to pay to have it shipped.

I haven't driven or seen it in person yet. What do you guys think this car is worth? Is buying a high mileage car for the track ok?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451877978

Thanks,
Andy


----------



## Mika (Oct 8, 2003)

I'd say karting would be more fun than quite a few classes or formulas. Not as much hassle as a "car". I used to live in Columbus, there's a kart track S of town on 23 near Circleville. http://www.bright.net/~crp/ This class isn't in Ohio http://www.rmaxchallenge.com/about/overview.htm

but maybe it will be in the future.


----------



## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

See related discussion in this thread:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47878

The biggest question is what will you ultimately want to do with the car? That should help tell you if an e36 325 is a good choice. They do make good K prepared cars.


----------



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

I'm wanting to use this car strictly for the track... driving schools and then eventually SCCA Club Racing (Improved Touring - S). I was talking to Pete (from TC Kline) about this and he suggested a '93 or '94 325i (sedan). He said that the ITS class was a good place to get my feet wet, plus the 325i is VERY competitive in that class.

But back to my question... Is it ok to get a high mileage car for the track? I'm mostly concerned about the engine. Will it make that big of a difference? :dunno: 

Thanks.


----------



## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

Very good - you know the target before choosing the weapon  

I think high mileage is okay just from the standpoint of how much work needs to be done to an e36 to prepare it for the track anyway. A lot of the wear items will be changed or maintenance performed on them and if the car will be a racer, then you'll eventually be into the engine as well.

Probably better to get something higher mileage for cheap (leaving you more money to do all the work it will need) than to get a pristine used car for top dollar just to start taking it apart anyway.


----------



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

scottn2retro said:


> Probably better to get something higher mileage for cheap (leaving you more money to do all the work it will need) than to get a pristine used car for top dollar just to start taking it apart anyway.


That's exactly what I was thinking. I just wanted to make sure that made sense (since I'm new to this).

Thanks Scott!! :thumbup:


----------



## DannO (Apr 25, 2002)

It seems like a good candidate for ITS. Contact James Clay at Bimmerworld re: 325s in ITS - they build winning cars with just that formula.

Have the car thoroughly inspected. It needs to be straight, not held together with duct tape and bailing wire. Have a compression and leak down test done. If the motor looks good and the chassis isn't a wreck, you've got a winner. Run it until the motor pops and go from there. You'll replace everything else anyway - suspension, interior, bushings, etc. ad nauseum.

Having it local is good. Take it to a local independant bmw shop that you trust.


----------



## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Andy- Hello from neighboring Indiana.

I'm also looking for a track car. After the helpful advice of Scott, DannO, and many others (thanks guys!), I've decided that an E36 325 is the way I'll go. Some more related threads on the topic:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=157820

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=156587

There are certain E36 things you have to watch out for- water pump, radiator, etc. And subframe tearing is an issue to be careful of:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=105667&highlight=weld
It sounds like this issue is not common, but $thousands$ to fix. I wouldn't buy a car with the tearing already started. So be sure and have the car checked out carefully before buying. Then change the bushings, reinforce the rear shock mounts, etc. right away.

It sounds like the sport package is a nice, but not essential, thing to have if you can get it. I prefer the 2 door 325is over the 4 door 325i purely for asthetics. Sounds like 2 vs. 4 doors evens out at the track- 4 door is slightly stiffer (but you'll probably stiffen up the car so it will be a wash) and the 2 door has better aerodynamics, maybe the 4 door has more down force in the rear.

I've got a lot of info collected regarding E36 325's for track cars. I can send it along if you drop me a line. Good luck.


----------



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

Thanks guys for the info and advise.

I checked out BimmerWorld.com and it looks as if they sell complete, custom built, race ready 325s. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be easier to just purchase a car from them instead of me trying to build my own, seeing how they have the experience and I don't.

Or maybe I should look into buying a used "race ready" 325i from an individual... I would imagine that would be the easiest and least expensive.

Many race teams (i.e. TC Kline, BimmerWorld, etc.) will rent out one of their race cars along with providing maintenance and support for you and the car. It would certainly be more expensive to do this for the long term, however might be a good way to get my feet wet for the short term.

What do you guys think? Any advise for someone interested in attending a few driving schools and then eventually getting into SCCA / BMWCCA Club Racing?

Thanks.


----------



## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Andy said:


> Or maybe I should look into buying a used "race ready" 325i from an individual... I would imagine that would be the easiest and least expensive.


I think that would be the cheapest way to go in the long term. You can hardly ever resell a race car for the cost of the parts you put into it. So buying one all prepped is a good idea.

I think those bimmerworld, etc. fully prepped race cars are really expensive- $50K ish maybe? Maybe get a used one for half that? Are you ready to risk putting something that expensive into a wall? Oh, and you'd need a truck and trailer to bring it to the track, too.

But such a race car might be "too much car" for you at this point- I know it would be for me. Heck, at BMW CCA driver schools, novices aren't allowed to even use R compound tires (and I think that makes sense). You may be more experienced than I. But if I were to, say, be given a new formula 1 car for the track, I'd probably get myself killed pretty quickly. I think it's best to learn on less of a car. I've got some track experience. But I think I should probably get myself a 325, keep it mostly stock, and get more track time under my belt before going 100% race car. I'll gradually upgrade both myself and the car to race status. I'm looking forward to learning how to do all the upgrades myself.

Although there are certainly arguments for going straight to an already prepped, used race car. It will be cheaper in the long run.

Just some thoughts...


----------



## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

BimmerWorld Stage I cars start at $20K. Stage III start at $35K. The prices soewhat depend on the condition of the base car as they do a full going over and replace all the parts that may be marginal (bearings, seals, bushings, control arms, etc.).


----------



## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

Buying an already built car is cheaper (in the long run) and quicker, but requires more money now. And if it's prepared to such a level that it's no longer street legal, that adds more costs in either towing or a trailer/pull vehicle.

If buying a built car, buying a newly prepped by B'world or TC Kline will be the ultimate/high dollar route, but maybe a better option is finding one for sale by a private party who had the car built by either one. That was the route I went - found a used racer for sale built by a good shop (PTG and TC Kline) with a good track history (so the performance of the car was a "known"). Best bang for the buck, but it takes more money up front than starting with a used car and building it up.


----------



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

Thanks again guys for all the advise.

I want to make sure the car is street legal because I want to be able to drive to and from the track with the car instead of hauling it. What would cause the car to not be street legal (in the ITS class)? Just tires or are there other things?

My goal for 2005 is to participate in a few local SCCA or BMWCCA Club Races. I know that is a year away, however my goal for 2004 was to attend a few driving schools and get my license. I originally thought I would take my 2003 330i ZHP out on the track for the schools, however now I'm having seconds thoughts... putting my car into the gravel trap or even worse the wall is just too risky. That's why I'm thinking about getting a track car now.

I will keep my eyes pealed for anyone selling "race ready" 325s. This sounds like the best and least expensive option.

Thanks,
Andy


----------



## The Roadstergal (Sep 7, 2002)

Andy said:


> I want to make sure the car is street legal because I want to be able to drive to and from the track with the car instead of hauling it. What would cause the car to not be street legal (in the ITS class)? Just tires or are there other things?


Harnesses are not street legal, and the exhaust system isn't, either...

If you're racing, you're pretty much looking at towing it. A guy I know gets a three-day temp permit to drive the non-street-legal racecars to the track for races, but that pretty much constrains him to that one local track. Some of the RX-7 guys once got together on a single tow vehicle for a couple of cars on a sizeable trailer, which is another option. But racing just ain't cheap, and the car is only part of that...


----------



## Andy (Jul 16, 2003)

The Roadstergal said:


> Harnesses are not street legal, and the exhaust system isn't, either...


Is it possible to have both a harness and the original seat belt in the car and be legal for both street and SCCA Club Racing? As for the exhaust, I could always just install a street legal exhaust system (cat back system).

Maybe I could always look into getting the special permit if I can't get the car to be street legal. I really don't want to get a trailer if I don't have to.


----------



## DannO (Apr 25, 2002)

If you are planning to race you need to plan for a trailer sooner rather than later. Some days the car might not be street-worthy after the race. Especially in the SCCA.  

Maybe starting with a 325 and modding it as your budget allows, doing track days to get it sorted and saving for a tow rig is the way to go.


----------



## ClubSpec330i (Oct 22, 2003)

Andy said:


> I originally thought I would take my 2003 330i ZHP out on the track for the schools, however now I'm having seconds thoughts... putting my car into the gravel trap or even worse the wall is just too risky. That's why I'm thinking about getting a track car now.


Dude! you have read my mind! Except, I am doing the opposite. Initially, I was looking for E30 M3 or 92-94 325 as my track and Autox car but then decided on using my ZHP instead. It will be partially sponsored by my local BMW dealership. After a long talk with my CEO(wife), I went out and got a daily commuter two days ago. Having driven it in the past two days, I don't feel bad at all because it can rev all the way to 8000RPM and handles like a go-kart. It will, of course, serve as occasional AutoX practice car as well. In addition, my wife 330i SP is available for me to drive on weekend when she doesn't use it.

Well, I hope you find your perspective car soon. And while you are at it, get a Toureg or Sequoia as a toll vehicle as well.

Good luck!!!!


----------

