# E91 N53 DME Pinout Wiring Diagram / DME fault- cranking but no start ***FIXED!!!***



## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Can anyone help provide me with a pinout diagram for the main DME connectors for my UK e91 please? 
I've got a cranking but no start issue and from what I've read and fault found so far I am thinking that it is something to do with the DME connectors or the DME relay / or associated wiring.

Last 7 digits on VIN are a153551
Car is an UK RHD 325i automatic N53
Manufacture date 01/2008

Car was stood for a number of months, started after a jump start, drove to the fuel station A OK, then after fueling would crank but not start.
I have fuel pressure.
I (now) have a new good battery fitted.
All fuses are OK.
I have not checked if I have spark, I will check but for now assume not as I have some error codes which are;

2ACC DME MASTER RELAY SHIFT DELAY
2ACB DME MASTER RELAY ACTIVATION
2A9A CRANKSHAFT-INLET CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZATION
2A9B CRANKSHAFT-EXHAUST CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZATION
2A9E CAMSHAFT SENSOR INLET SYNCHRONIZATION
2A9F CAMSHAFT SENSOR EXHAUST SYNCHRONIZATION

I believe that the DME is not waking up, or is not providing the correct signals for timing and spark. I've looked at the DME connections and can see slight corrosion on a few pins so want to check which ones they are and what they do.

View attachment 1020296


If anyone can help i'd appreciate it.

TIA.


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

See attached. That corrosion is definitely causing your issues.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Thanks for those. I thought I could get them via the TIS website so paid for 24hrs access....doesn't seem that I can get them though as it looks more like a service bulletin site than a technical manuals one. Never mind.

From what I can find so far I have power at fuse 4 and 37 which I understand are needed for the DME. I also have +12v at spade 3 on the 30g relay with spade 5 going to earth. This would suggest that the DME relay itself is OK as it's providing power to fuse 37.

That said I took the 30g relay out and bridged spades 3 to 5 to make sure the relay wasn't the problem; the engine cranked but still didn't start which suggests that the issue perhaps lies with the dme and that something else is not getting a signal to allow the engine to fire perhaps courtesy of the corroded pins.


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

markc01 said:


> is not getting a signal to allow the engine to fire perhaps courtesy of the corroded pins.


Yes. Clean the pins well. This is likely the cause of your problems.

Edit: Check fuses 11 and 37 behind the glovebox. These provide power the crank and cam sensors.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Will do, thanks. I’ve used a toothbrush and some cleaning agent and managed to clear the dme faults but the cam position ones are still present so I’ll check the fuses mentioned.

I’m going to get some different electrical terminal cleaner and a kit specifically for the job and try cleaning it all again. I’ve used WD40 contact cleaner but will be using rubbing alcohol next.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Just for the record this is the other side of the junction so the female connector part


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Just checked...
11 is populated and is ok
37 is not populated
38 is not populated
39 is is populated and is ok

I’ve back pin checked the voltage on pins 11 and 12 of connector 60007 which should be the cam position sensors and I’m only getting 0.4v, which I’m assuming is to low.
Does anyone know what the voltage should be with the ignition on and engine not running?


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

The wiring diagram I have shows different fuses depending on model year. It's showing fuse 37 as powering the sensors for anything built after Sept 2007. So, I'm not sure what's going on there.
Pins 11 and 12 on 60007 are the signals coming in from the sensors. There's no specified voltage because the voltage will vary as the cams spin. The fact that your getting greater than 0V indicates the sensors are getting power and the fuses to them are good.

For cleaning the connectors, I've sometimes resorted to fine grit emory. Might want to borrow your lady's nail file.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

My DME faults have both magically returned after going away for 24hrs. So I've either missed something or it's a dodgy connection/corrosion.

I'm going to re-check the dme relay activates by grounding a pin on the connector block (pin number escapes me just now) in the dme box or on the fusebox (connector on top LHS?)

I've pulled the dme itself and have check continuity on the pins to the pcb on connectors X60007, X60006, X60005, A6000 and X6004 and they all check out ok.

I've checked the other smaller connector and have some odd results on the 6 pin connector; Mr Bean would you be so good as to send over the pin connector ID's and pin outs for the other connector on the DME please?


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

Oddly, I'm not seeing any additional connectors on the wiring diagram, only 60001 through 60007.

If there's corrosion on the male pins, you can bet there's corrosion on their female counterparts in the harness. Unfortunately, there's no good way to really clean them. When I've had connection issues like this in the past, I've cleaned the male pins as best I could, sprayed contact cleaner into the female pins, and then blow them out with compressed air. After that, cycle the connector - plug it in, then unplug and repeat several times - to help scrape off any residual junk off the contacts.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Sorry I think my explanation was poor; I've circled the connector I was talking about.


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

So the small connector you circled is 60001, 60002 and 60003.
The other connector is 60004 through 60007.
The pinouts for all 7 are in the PDF I posted above.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

mr_bean said:


> So the small connector you circled is 60001, 60002 and 60003.
> The other connector is 60004 through 60007.
> The pinouts for all 7 are in the PDF I posted above.


Thanks for that


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

I've managed to go backwards on this now as I cannot communicate with the DME with the fault code reader I have hence I've updated the thread title and gone right back to stage 1.

I've put a ground to Pin 1 of connector X10010 on the fusebox and the DME relay clicks, I also get 12v at fuses 37, 38, and 39 which makes me think the DME relay is working (I get the same result applying the ground and any point between X10010 and X60005).

Just to back the above up I've checked continuity of Pin 1 on connector X10010 on the fusebox to Pin 13 on connector 60005 and it is OK (I also checked each connector on that wire routing from X10010 to 60005 and each point was OK).

Fuse 4 is OK and has 12v at one side with the fuse removed.

I checked the voltage at pin 1 on connector X6003 and it was only reading 0.4v which is suspiciously low....does anyone know what the "Pin 1 SUPPLY , TERMINAL 30" voltage should usually read please?

And if I were to route pin 1 on connector X6003 back down to the fuseboard which wire and connector block ID is it does anyone know? Just so I can do a continuity/resistance check.


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## mr_bean (Mar 20, 2009)

Pin 1 on X60003 is 12V coming from fuse 4. It should be a red wire. Follow this to pin 10 of X6011. From there it switches to a black and red wire and runs to pin on x11001 on the fuse box where it hooks up with fuse 4.

Another thing to check: When you ground out Pin 1 of connector X10010 on the fusebox and hear the relay click, this should be switching on 12V to pins 2 and 3 of X60003 at the DME.
edit: It might be better to perform this check with X10010 plugged in. Instead, ground out pin 13 on X60005, this should have the same effect of switching on the relay.


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## markc01 (Jan 11, 2021)

Fixed!!!!

I traced the problem back to a loose connection/baggy fitting fuse at F4 so the fuse was not making a good contact. Absolutely no idea why it should suddenly start being an issue, and I only found it by chance when I was doing a continuity check from F4 to the DME.

Maybe the actual issue was with the corroded DME connectors and then I introduced a fault myself....who knows. Once I'd found it all it took was a slight twist to one of the fuse legs to get a better contact and the DME started responding properly and then the engine started first go. 

The positive thing is that going back to the beginning and doing some careful basic checks found the issue.

Thanks for your help


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