# Rear foglight install instructions (real!) :thumbup:



## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

*Rear foglight install instructions (real!)*

OK, I've decided to do something about it.

This is not the permanent home of this information, but for the time being this will be its public location.

The instructions are meant to be just that. It is not intended to be a pictorial (you can buy a Playboy for that). It may be revised as I perform more installs, especially on different bodystyles but I really don't have any intention on making major revisions to it.

If anyone can find any reasonably omission or error, please let me know and I will work on fixing them. If you want pictures of how to get the wire through boots or under the doorsills, don't bother. You probably should be asking someone with more mechanical skills to help you anyways. Some of the information, like removing the driver's footrest can be found at other places (that's where I got the info).

http://members.cox.net/kokayasu/BMW/howto/Rear_fog_retrofit.html

Enjoy!


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## CzTom (May 25, 2002)

Good summary, Kaz:thumbup: 
I can personnally report that your write-up works for E46 convertibles.


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## mikemartin9 (Feb 22, 2003)

*Re: rear fogs*

Excelent writeup and definetly worth the wait

Tanks

 :yikes:  :rofl:


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## OBS3SSION (Oct 1, 2002)

So, has anyone done this, or know the part numbers specific for a >2002 (facelifted) sedan?


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## Parump (Dec 25, 2001)

Many thanks Kaz!


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## Llarry (May 17, 2002)

Outstanding contribution, Kaz! Thanks!

:thumbup:


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## Llarry (May 17, 2002)

OBS3SSION said:


> *So, has anyone done this, or know the part numbers specific for a >2002 (facelifted) sedan? *


Given the recent brouhaha over ETK availability and all, this type of thing is gonna get harder. My own edition is early 2002.

Is there any kind soul out there with an ETK covering 2003 models who can find the p/n for left & right bulb carriers?

Please?

:dunno:


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

For facelift cars, it's not an issue about part #s. It's an issue of finding out where the heck the rear fogs even go. I've looked briefly at the lighting configuration of one and everything is all moved around. If someone can figure out where the rear fogs even go on one, figuring out what needs to be done to make it work should be pretty trivial.


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## Mdk330i (Feb 24, 2002)

Hey Kaz, do you have prices on the parts? MSRP or what you paid? TIA


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Funny, I can't edit the smiley out of the subject (it's not supposed to be there)...

Anyhow, for the prices:

Obviously parts prices can be all over the map. That's why in my writeup the cost range is so huge. It is based on actual pricing I've seen but not necessarily paid. 

but:

Rear contact: ~$2
Front contact: ~$3
bulb holder: ~$6 with bulbs
Switch: I've read about people buying one for as little as $40, but I paid quite a bit more, and some people have been quoted as high as ~$200+.


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## Toast (Jan 9, 2002)

*Parts ordered*

First of all, thanks to Kaz for sharing the information. 

I've just ordered the parts to have the retrofit done today. :drink: For the folks in Canada interested in having the foglamps retrofitted, the following is the price I paid for the various parts (in Canadian funds):

Left bulb holder (63 21 8 374 807): $11
Light Switch Unit, Xenon, no auto lights (61 31 8 378 574): $129
Bushing Contact for LCM (61 13 0 008 998): $2.70
Bushing Contact for lights (61 13 0 006 626): $2.70

Total comes to roughly $130 (I get 10% off from my parts guy :bigpimp: )

Also, where can I find the following parts?
*Small gauge (18-22AWG) butt connectors
*25ft PVC insulated stranded copper wire (20AWG OK for 1 light; 18AWG recommended for 2)
Maybe RadioShack? Anybody? :dunno:


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## Bob330Ci (Oct 15, 2002)

The prices I was quoted from Circle are all over the map. I'm thinking maybe some of these are the wrong part, and unfortunately they've not been significantly helpful in sorting this out.

Rear fog light parts
1 61-31-6-911-646 Light switch panel, xenon, autolights $130.00
1 63-21-8-374-807 Left light housing $5.50
1 63-21-8-374-808 Right light housing $1.00
1 61-13-0-008-998 Bushing contact for LCM $1.00
2 61-13-0-006-626 Bushing contact for lights $26.50

The price difference between the left and right bulb holders seems odd, at best. When I asked them to double check that for me, it was ignored. I may just submit my order to Cutter and be done with it.

B.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Wow, that right bulbholder price is odd.

I got mine from Circle and paid $5.20 per side.

I hope that bushing contact price was a typo. Should be less that last 0.

I got my LCM contact from a local dealer (because I thought I had the right one in stock when I placed the Circle order) and it was $3.75 ish.

As for the other parts, I used what I had in stock but you can get the stuff at any Radio Shack or hardware store/home center.


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## Mdk330i (Feb 24, 2002)

Just a FYI... I got all the parts (except LCM) for $14.05 (both left and right light housings/contacts for both/contact for LCM) + $5 shipping to LA. Parts have to be ordered and should be here in a week. Ordered from Cutter. I just hope I don't have a "Manny" experience with this order.


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## Toast (Jan 9, 2002)

*Completed install*

My parts just came in today, and I've finally completed the install of the foglamps. Thanks to Kaz again for the instructions. :thumbup: I guess I can safely say that this setup works for earlier production 2001 3 series (mine was built in 12/00, last week of December... ugh).

As for how the lights work:
1) no foglights will work if no lights are on
2) if parking lights are on (light switch in the first position), rear foglamps will come on ONLY WITH front foglamps, so you need to turn on the front first, then turn on the rear. Once the fronts are off, the rear will go off too.
3) if headlights are on (light switch in the second position), the foglamps work independently. I can both, or either of them on, without affecting the other. And I don't need to turn on the front first to make the rear work.

I guess that's about it.


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## Terry Kennedy (Sep 21, 2002)

*And now for something slightly different...*

If you've read my early research on this retrofit, it is to use the rear fog light switch as an OEM-looking way to operate an electronic deer whistle under the hood.

I'm getting ready to do the install (finally) and I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to get a wire from pin 49 on the LCM into the engine compartment. I assume there are a number of existing holes with parts of the wiring harness in them - I'm looking for hints on the easiest runs, so I don't have to completely disassemble the dash/instrument cluster, etc. if I don't have to. The ideal hole would be reasonably easy to get to on both sides, and would have some space for a single wire without needing to enlarge the hole, etc.

Any suggestions? Also, if there are any documents in the TIS about installing wiring here, pointers to them would be useful.


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## Toast (Jan 9, 2002)

Check out the instructions for installing front foglamps on the circlebmw site. It shows you how to run the wiring harness from the front of the car (foglamps) to the LCM through a hole (with a water proof boot, i think). Hope the info helps.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

If you don't mind getting the wire over to the RH side first, it's a piece of cake. There are plenty of places in the 'empty compartment' in the engine compartment where you can poke a wire through one of the existing grommets and into the back of the fusebox.

There are similar things on the LH side but are more difficult to access because all the brake components and the e-box are there.


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## sp330i (Dec 26, 2001)

Just got a quote of $56.00 for the non-xenon, halogen switch from Hendricks BMW. 

Wonder if you can just replace the switch to convert a non autolight to autolight functions? :dunno:


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

sp330i said:


> *Just got a quote of $56.00 for the non-xenon, halogen switch from Hendricks BMW.
> 
> Wonder if you can just replace the switch to convert a non autolight to autolight functions? :dunno: *


No, since the autolight sensor is up where the rainsensor is by the rearview mirror.


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## sp330i (Dec 26, 2001)

I had a follow-up reply from Hendricks regarding part number 

61 31 8 378 572 - Halogen/no autosensing

This is what it said...

"I have just found out that the light switch you are wanting will only fit a US 330 convertible. Other than that, it will only fit 3 series euro cars. That part will not work with any other US car. Sorry I have implied false info. Let me know if I can help you with anything else.
Thanks,
Hendrick BMW"

Can anyone with personal experience or an ETK dispute that?


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

AFAIK I haven't gotten any reports back from any halogen/no auto people. I'll try and verify the PN again, but hopefully someone who's gotten this to work with that PN will chime in.

If the control panel matches the function of the LCM, there's no reason I can think of that it won't work. In fact I have my stock control panel apart at home and it's deceptively simple inside.


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## Terry Kennedy (Sep 21, 2002)

sp330i said:


> *61 31 8 378 572 - Halogen/no autosensing
> 
> Can anyone with personal experience or an ETK dispute that? *


I'm not an ETK expert, but that part is used on a wide variety of models, including the 330i:
Used-on diagram 
However, from the picture, this switch appears to have two "volume control" knobs, one being the normal instrument dimmer, and I think the other is manual headlight leveling:
Parts illustration
Sometimes the ETK picture is incorrect, though. It would be best if you could find someone with direct experience.

I'm sorry about the huge and funky images - I'm composing this on my home theatre system via cross-system cut-and-paste from a computer in my office running the ETK, and I can't re-size them easily. At least I didn't inline the images, so you don't have to load 'em if you don't want to.


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

Kaz, any thoughts on installing a fuse inline?

I was thinking of putting one just after the LCM, just in case, to protect it.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

sergiok said:


> *Kaz, any thoughts on installing a fuse inline?
> 
> I was thinking of putting one just after the LCM, just in case, to protect it. *


I thought about it, but none of the other circuits that run off the LCM are fused. Any fusing (except for things like the frong fog module or the trailer module) appear to be fused at the power source that feeds into the LCM.


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## Terry Kennedy (Sep 21, 2002)

Kaz said:


> *I thought about it, but none of the other circuits that run off the LCM are fused. Any fusing (except for things like the frong fog module or the trailer module) appear to be fused at the power source that feeds into the LCM. *


True - but if there's a problem in the factory wiring harness, they'll fix it under warranty. If you short the pin doing the retrofit or later on the wire rubs somehwere it shouldn't, you'll need to eat the cost of a new LCM (not cheap) as well as diagnostic time to code the replacement with your VIN, odometer, etc.

The part that drives this pin can handle about 5 Amps. So if you do fuse it, I'd suggest 4A or under (depending on what the current draw is on the lamps you use).

Since you have to splice onto the stubby wire BMW gives you with the pin, you could add a fuse holder there (though it'd be a nuisance to change the fuse if it blows).


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

I agree, putting in a $2 fuse may save hundreds down the line if something goes wrong with the new wiring that was laid down.


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## needanswer (Oct 16, 2003)

Kaz said:


> http://www.bimmerfest.com/members/kaz/howto/rear_fog_retrofit.html
> Enjoy!


Kaz, thanks for the great write up.

Since you're the master at this, 
here are some questions that needs your expertise.

a) I plan to use the switch to trigger a relay to turn on 
DDE lightnings (some exterior lights). 
once you did the retrofit, do you know if the car detects
whether the rear fog lights are okay (i.e. would you get 
a warning light in the front dash if your rear fog lights burned out?
I ask b/c the relay I connect pin 49 to will unlikely have the same
resistence as a rear fog light. then, I'll keep getting a warning light
that my rear fogs are out.

b) what is the voltage that comes out of PIN 49?
is it 12V when ON , and 0V when OFF?

c) I have been told that the following works in Euro-spec cars.
can you confirm if the following is also true for retrofied cars.

you must first turn ON either front fog lights or headlights 
before you can turn ON the rear fog lights.
*however, once the rear fog lights are ON , 
you can turn off both front fog lights and/or headlights, and 
the rear fog lights will remain ON  
until you manually turn them off with the switch or 
turn off the ignition.*

thanks :thumbup:


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## needanswer (Oct 16, 2003)

Toast said:


> My parts just came in today, and I've finally completed the install of the foglamps.
> 
> As for how the lights work:
> 1) no foglights will work if no lights are on
> ...


Toast, 
since you did the rear fog light retrofit, 
can you please help me with these questions?

1) what is the voltage that comes out of PIN 49?
is it 12V when ON , and 0V when OFF?

2) I have been told that the following works in Euro-spec cars.
can you confirm if the following is also true for retrofied cars.

you must first turn ON either front fog lights or headlights 
before you can turn ON the rear fog lights.
*however, once the rear fog lights are ON , 
you can turn off both front fog lights and/or headlights, and 
the rear fog lights will remain ON  
until you manually turn them off with the switch or 
turn off the ignition.*

3) after you installed the new switch and 
before you tapped PIN 49, did you try turning on your car,
if so, did a warning light come on signaling that the 
rear fog light bulbs are out?
if not, do you know if there's such a warning light ?

thanks :thumbup:


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## CtrlAltDel (Mar 19, 2003)

Here is my question for the powers that be.

If I install an auto dimming rear view mirror that has the light sensor on it, and the new auto switch...would the auto lights work? Does anyone know if there is some computer option that needs turned on?

Besides that, the new switch we are all talking about is the switch with the two fog light buttons, correct?


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## E46CollegePunk (May 9, 2003)

can someone revive this thread and repost the DIY since it doesnt exist anymore?


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Duh...

I just now realized that my cable provider provides webspace.

Here it is now:

http://members.cox.net/kokayasu/BMW/howto/Rear_fog_retrofit.html

I'll also update the link at the top.


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## acitydweller (Aug 12, 2004)

I was fixated on doing the LED rear taillamp retrofit but since this will require a new LCM, why not get an updated LCM with the additional Fog button as well eh? 

out of curiosity, does anyone have the LCM part number for xenon/autolight that will work with the rear LED retro? 

I have a 2001 M3 coupe.


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

acitydweller said:


> I was fixated on doing the LED rear taillamp retrofit but since this will require a new LCM, why not get an updated LCM with the additional Fog button as well eh?
> 
> out of curiosity, does anyone have the LCM part number for xenon/autolight that will work with the rear LED retro?
> 
> I have a 2001 M3 coupe.


The LCM and the light switch are two different parts. No U.S. bound car has the fog button. If you get a new LCM, you have to have it coded correctly (dealer or indy) because it is one of the three places (computer) where the car stores mileage.


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## acitydweller (Aug 12, 2004)

I had originally thought the switch and LCM were the same as they were both on the same unit.

if i understand correctly, the rear fog modification is LCM independant.

I was concerned because the LED taillamp retrofit project requires a new LCM on early 2001 model M3's.


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

acitydweller said:


> I had originally thought the switch and LCM were the same as they were both on the same unit.
> 
> if i understand correctly, the rear fog modification is LCM independant.
> 
> I was concerned because the LED taillamp retrofit project requires a new LCM on early 2001 model M3's.


I don't know if the rear fog mod is LCM independent...

Besides simply swapping out the existing light switch for the euro light switch (with the rear fog button), I know on my '00 323ci, pin 49 (IIRC) was where I tapped in order to add the rear fog power and that was the brunt of the electrical aspect of the mod. Now, as for running the wire all the way to the trunk... that's another story.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

As long as it's a 99-01 sedan or 00-03 coupe LCM it's not dependent on what you have. I can't guarantee that this will work on 04+ coupes/convertibles or those retrofitted for LED tails, though I would assume this will still work.


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## bjhille (Feb 26, 2005)

Terry Kennedy said:


> I'm not an ETK expert, but that part is used on a wide variety of models, including the 330i:
> Used-on diagram
> However, from the picture, this switch appears to have two "volume control" knobs, one being the normal instrument dimmer, and I think the other is manual headlight leveling:
> Parts illustration
> ...


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## Mark_325i (May 1, 2003)

This all being said, it is still very annoying driving behind a car that has rear fogs lit. The Audi and Volvo ones are especially bright and distracting. Of course, those who have them usually leave them on all the time.


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## bjhille (Feb 26, 2005)

*Halogen Switch*

Okay, here's the deal. I called Crevier BMW and they were very helpful. In Euro, all the e46's have manual height adjustments on the Halogens and automatic on the Xenon. So, to get rid of the second dial you need to use the Xenon switch. My question is, can you hookup the Xenon switch (61 31 8 378 574) in replacement of the Halogen switch (61 31 8 378 572) :dunno: I am willing to try it, but will plugging in the wrong switch blow the LCM which is expecting a Halogen switch?


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Mark_325i said:


> This all being said, it is still very annoying driving behind a car that has rear fogs lit. The Audi and Volvo ones are especially bright and distracting. Of course, those who have them usually leave them on all the time.


If they're being used improperly, I totally agree with you.

I do not use any of my foglights in clear weather.


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## Mark_325i (May 1, 2003)

> If they're being used improperly, I totally agree with you.





> I do not use any of my foglights in clear weather.


You are an exception. Here in Long Island-CT-VT-MA you can ID an Audi or Volvo from half mile away because they have that million-watt red light burning. Come on, admit that fogs (front and rear) are not necessary -- people use them because they think they look cool. Someone willing to part with $500 for a bright red tail light is gonna use that thing every time the car is on the road and the headlamps are lit.


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## SergioK (Aug 14, 2002)

Mark_325i said:


> Come on, admit that fogs (front and rear) are not necessary


I've been in such thick fog that the streetlights are not visible one to the next. I'd say in those circumstances they are quite necessary!


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## andy_thomas (Oct 7, 2002)

Mark_325i said:


> You are an exception. Here in Long Island-CT-VT-MA you can ID an Audi or Volvo from half mile away because they have that million-watt red light burning. Come on, admit that fogs (front and rear) are not necessary


If you live somewhere where there is never any fog, then they are unnecessary. But you might drive one day to a part of the world where there is thick fog. Perhaps you've not yet experienced really thick fog, but I can tell you that rear foglights are _extremely_ necessary in some situations.


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## andy_thomas (Oct 7, 2002)

bjhille said:


> I received this part for $48.00 from Creiver BMW. It does have the two "volume" knobs. I thought I got the wrong part but everything seems to work fine. Why would a halogen switch have controls for headlight leveling? Is this something else that Euro cars have and not US? Is it something that can be retrofit?


As you've probably worked out now, the halogens have manually/electrically adjustable headlight levelling in RoW (I have not seen it omitted anywhere else, anyway). Xenons are auto-levelling everywhere, and while I don't think electrical adjustment of halogen headlights - to account for different loads - is mandated everywhere, it's pretty widespread. More of a question would be why US cars omit them.


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## Mark_325i (May 1, 2003)

I knew my response was going to generate several "yeah, well it's foggy where I live and I need foglights blah blah", and those people would be correct (hattip: Andy in London). But, come on, our beamers don't even have real front fogs -- they only operate when the regular headlamps are on. Just for show, as most rear ones are, too. It is just that front fogs, when on when not appropriate, are not annoying to other drivers. Rear fogs -- those super bright red lamps that can be seen from space -- are verrrry annoying to drive behind.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

I very specifically state in my writeup:


> Remember, the rear fog light is a safety device. It is NOT a toy.


I repeat: It is NOT A TOY.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Mark_325i said:


> You are an exception. Here in Long Island-CT-VT-MA you can ID an Audi or Volvo from half mile away because they have that million-watt red light burning. Come on, admit that fogs (front and rear) are not necessary -- people use them because they think they look cool. Someone willing to part with $500 for a bright red tail light is gonna use that thing every time the car is on the road and the headlamps are lit.


Mine only cost about $100 for me to retrofit my rear fogs.

There have been times (believe it or not) where weather does get bad in Cali and I do use the rears as a warning indicator. Sometimes the rain and mist is bad enough to be like driving in fog, and it makes me feel better to have the rear fogs. Keeps those jackhole drivers from getting all up on my tail in inclement weather. Too many tailgaters in bad weather. What are they thinking? :loco: So if I find it hard to see the car(s) about 50-70 feet in front of me, I turn on my rear fogs because I'm sure the people behind me probably can't see me all too well either. And if you've ever had someone close in on you in the rearview in bad weather and then see them nosedive when they hit the brakes... you know what I mean. 

When it's clear I agree it's annoying and I don't use them. When weather is bad enough to cut visibility that much, I won't hesitate to use them.


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## andy_thomas (Oct 7, 2002)

Mark_325i said:


> I knew my response was going to generate several "yeah, well it's foggy where I live and I need foglights blah blah", and those people would be correct (hattip: Andy in London). But, come on, our beamers don't even have real front fogs -- they only operate when the regular headlamps are on.


Well, that may be the case in the USA. Front fogs elsewhere are operable independently of the dipped or main beams. They (at least the ones attached to my car) cast light low to the ground, and over a short range. For most they're not enormously useful, not least because almost all drivers drive too fast for fog - and therefore too fast for the foglights.


> Just for show, as most rear ones are, too. It is just that front fogs, when on when not appropriate, are not annoying to other drivers. Rear fogs -- those super bright red lamps that can be seen from space -- are verrrry annoying to drive behind.


I agree that misuse is extremely irritating - if the driver is ignoring a bright yellow warning lamp on the dash telling him his rear foglight is on in clear weather, what else is he ignoring?


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## bjhille (Feb 26, 2005)

Mark_325i said:


> But, come on, our beamers don't even have real front fogs -- they only operate when the regular headlamps are on. Just for show, as most rear ones are, too.


Umm, I'm not sure if it's a function of the new Euro switch (I did NOT replace the LCM), but my front fogs can come on without the main lights on. I need to have the running lights on, but not the headlights.

I did not mean to ask a "should I install the rear fog question". I knew I wanted them as I do occasionally have the need for them. I agree they are annoying if misused. :angel: For $80, the upgrade was worth it to me. I get to add features to my car that isn't available to most people (at least around here), I get the satisfaction of doing "mods" to my car without spending a lot of money, and I actually get to use them once in awhile.

I did find out that the second "volume" knob is for Euro headlight adjustments. Since I can't retro that on the car, do you know if I can take the Xenon switch and use it instead of the Halegon switch? I assume I can as it's just the switch, not the LCM that actually drives the lights. Thoughts?


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## JAWJr (May 4, 2004)

Boy I sure wish that on 2004+ coupes it were possible to do a rear fog retrofit.  

~Jon


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## bjhille (Feb 26, 2005)

*Switches*

For those who care:

In Euro, all the e46's have manual height adjustments on the Halogens and automatic on the Xenon. So, to get rid of the second dial you need to use the Xenon switch. To do this, you CAN use the Xenon switch (61 31 8 378 574) in replacement of the Halogen switch (61 31 8 378 572) even if you are using the Halogen LCM. This eliminates the second "volume" knob on the Euro Halogen switch. :bigpimp:


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## ada (May 20, 2005)

back from the dead.

I followed this DIY and my rear fog lights retrofit is complete.

However, I just want to let you know that I am ABLE to TURN ON my rear fog lights by itself. I DO NOT have to turn on the front to enable my rear fog lights. Everything works including the dash board indicator.

I have a 323i 2000 and I bought the EURO LCM flaceplate/switch


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