# 00 740iL Trans failsafe progrm + other issues



## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

I bought a 2000 740il car a few months ago, the SES was On since I bought the car, ( i thought it would be an easy fix) anyway I took the car to Autozone for a SES light for a free test well it seemd my problem was the Fuel pressure regulator which I replaced inmedialty along the fuel filter, That did not fixed the SES light to come ON ( I did notice a better performance). Now I'm getting randomly all these warnings on the dash: 

- Trans failsafe progrm. 
- SRS light on.
- ABS light on.
- Brake light on (Steady Yellow) along with this the brake lights will stay on like as I pressing the brakes.
- DSC light on (Steady Yellow).
-SeatBelt light on (Steady Red, even after I put the seatbelt)

These Warnings go away on their on after a minute or so, the car runs fine but I'm getting worried that something bad is coming, I'm not sure what to look for

This is what I have done so far to the car:

- Replaced Fuel pressure regulator/Fuelfilter.
- Engine Oil.
- Air Filter.
- Took the battery to Autozone for a battery check, came on "Good"

Then I decide to take to a shop for BMW's, they say it could be my Mass Air Flow Sensor causing the SES to come On, they didnt say a thing about the transsmition until I mentioned ( I guess it doenst get register in the car comp).

My car has 89410 miles. Please advice in what could be the possible problems or solutions for these type of problems.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

Anyone?


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## dannyc9997 (May 15, 2008)

You defenetly have more than one problem here. The ABS/Brake/DSC issue is common, if your speedometer is working then you may just need a wheel speed sensor (your car has 1 for each wheel). Only someone with the GT1 scanner can figure that out for sure. The SRS and seatbelt lights are probably related, one or more sensor is defective. Same with the SES light, probably just a sensor, you may have had more than one code stored. Again thats impossible to know without the right scanner. Bring your car back to the mechanic and write down a list of everything the car is doing so they know what to look for.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

dannyc9997 said:


> You defenetly have more than one problem here. The ABS/Brake/DSC issue is common, if your speedometer is working then you may just need a wheel speed sensor (your car has 1 for each wheel). Only someone with the GT1 scanner can figure that out for sure. The SRS and seatbelt lights are probably related, one or more sensor is defective. Same with the SES light, probably just a sensor, you may have had more than one code stored. Again thats impossible to know without the right scanner. Bring your car back to the mechanic and write down a list of everything the car is doing so they know what to look for.


Thanks Danny,

Yes my car works fine. the only issue its all these weird random events, for instance today everything went flawless, well except the SES still On but no other warnings. Anyway I'll take it once more to my mechanic, lets see how many Benjamins will cost me.

Thank you for your time.


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## HELLROT750 (Jun 29, 2009)

I cant hope to tell you what the problem is,,,,what i do know is if your battery(s) becomes weak (i.e. Not driven often) your car will do strange things. Mine does! I recommend to everyone to get a battery tender that plugs into the cig lighter. Ive replaced enough batteries before figuring this out. Probably not too helpful. Just my two cents.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

HELLROT750 said:


> I cant hope to tell you what the problem is,,,,what i do know is if your battery(s) becomes weak (i.e. Not driven often) your car will do strange things. Mine does! I recommend to everyone to get a battery tender that plugs into the cig lighter. Ive replaced enough batteries before figuring this out. Probably not too helpful. Just my two cents.


Thanks HellRot,

I drive my car to work 5 days per week, but I'm going to take it to another AutoZone for a Battery test, again just to double check.

As for the SES I pulled the MAF too see how good it was, it looks clean no signs of dirt, but I did notice the small wire that looks like a paper clip (Not the Hot wire) its touching a melted piece of plastic from the MAF itself. Would that affect the MAF, and the reason the SES it's On?.

Thanks for your feedback.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

Vokuro1 said:


> Thanks HellRot,
> 
> I drive my car to work 5 days per week, but I'm going to take it to another AutoZone for a Battery test, again just to double check.
> 
> ...


Took my car to another autozone, battery showed good BUT not to full capacity. Payday is coming up I'll be replacing it to see what the results are.

I found a used MAF for $150 which I may get as well. I hope this could fix the SES. now do I need to take my car to be reset witht the reset tool or disconnecting the battery could do the job?


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Start fresh with a new battery, hopefully that will resolve some of your issues.

I'd be very hesitant to buy a used MAF. If your problem doesn't go away, how will you know if the used MAF was good? If you're going to gamble $150, you may as well gamble $210 and get a brand new one.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

M.Wong said:


> Start fresh with a new battery, hopefully that will resolve some of your issues.
> 
> I'd be very hesitant to buy a used MAF. If your problem doesn't go away, how will you know if the used MAF was good? If you're going to gamble $150, you may as well gamble $210 and get a brand new one.


M.Wong,

I took my car to shuck's (No AutoZone this time ) they told me the battery it still good it was just low in charge they gave a few options Take the battery out and have them charge it, take it to Les Schwab to get it charged there, or buy a $35 battery charger.
So I got the batter charger since I thought it could be useful later on.
I let the battery charging overnight on Wednesday as of today Friday 2 pm I haven't get any Trans safe, SRS, Brake and any related issues. So it seems I'm all good now.

SES still On so I may have to change the MAF, your comment made me think of the risks of getting a used one. So i'll get a new one instead.

Thanks.


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

You can try cleaning it. I'd do that before buying a used one, but I'd more likely just get a new one and start from scratch. I bought my last one from oembimmerparts.com and it was OEM.

Take a look at www.e38.org and read how to clean it. You can also find a thread there about using a Range Rover part that may cost less than a BMW one - and it's the same Bosch part!


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

The SES light is always emissions related....some symptoms of a MAF going bad will be: Hard starts on cold mornings, stalling at stop lights, an SES light which stays on (as opposed to one which will come on and go off which is indicative of a bad Cam Position Sensor (CPS) ). In my case, my SES was triggered by too much vacuum inside the crank case as measured by the slack tube manometer test (indicating an OSV - Oil seperator valve getting ready to go (84K miles). I replaced the OSV, and eventually the MAF because fuel adaptive values would not settle down properly and all is now well. In addition, sometimes an air leak can develop in the rubber hoses from the air cleaner to the intake manifold, which will also trigger the SES (too much air = a lean condition).

A competent indy should be able to diagnose your problems by pulling the codes and God knows, in Portland, you should be able to find at least one good, honest independent. Forget about O2 sensors for now, they are too far downstream unless the light is still on after replacing the MAF, CPSs, etc. unless the car has an aftermarket exhaust system.

Put a Duralast 49L in your car (sold at Autozone), and make sure it has a vent tube (much cheaper than BMW batteries and just as good, if not better. Certainly a heck of a lot cheaper). Be sure that when you get ready to change it, that the orange light inside the cockpit is off (takes 18 minutes after you turn the key off, otherwise you will possibly corrupt the nav system). Tighten the terminals and use some dialectric grease so there is no corrosion. As someone said in an earlier post, a battery going south will bring up all sorts of strange gremlins. If you have not done it already, unlock your OBC and check your battery readings as you drive. You need to make sure that your alternator is charging your battery. If you don't know how to unlock your OBC, get back to us immediately. Also, bookmark www.e38.org and read every post. It's important.

jake


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

M.Wong said:


> You can try cleaning it. I'd do that before buying a used one, but I'd more likely just get a new one and start from scratch. I bought my last one from oembimmerparts.com and it was OEM.
> 
> Take a look at www.e38.org and read how to clean it. You can also find a thread there about using a Range Rover part that may cost less than a BMW one - and it's the same Bosch part!


M.Wong,

I'll clean the MAF today let's see how it goes. Thanks for the link, they sure have good low prices, some of them half of price.

Thanks.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

crewdog843 said:


> The SES light is always emissions related....some symptoms of a MAF going bad will be: Hard starts on cold mornings, stalling at stop lights, an SES light which stays on (as opposed to one which will come on and go off which is indicative of a bad Cam Position Sensor (CPS) ). In my case, my SES was triggered by too much vacuum inside the crank case as measured by the slack tube manometer test (indicating an OSV - Oil seperator valve getting ready to go (84K miles). I replaced the OSV, and eventually the MAF because fuel adaptive values would not settle down properly and all is now well. In addition, sometimes an air leak can develop in the rubber hoses from the air cleaner to the intake manifold, which will also trigger the SES (too much air = a lean condition).
> 
> A competent indy should be able to diagnose your problems by pulling the codes and God knows, in Portland, you should be able to find at least one good, honest independent. Forget about O2 sensors for now, they are too far downstream unless the light is still on after replacing the MAF, CPSs, etc. unless the car has an aftermarket exhaust system.
> 
> ...


Jake,

Hard Starts its one of the things my car has living in portland makes it to be more often for the lower temps, I'm glad its summer.

I took my car to Pacific Motor Sports (Portland's Premiere BMW shop) the mechanic did a SES reading and reset all the codes since I've told him I replaced the Fuel pressure regulator along with the Fuel filter, he told me to drive the car around and if the SES light comes back On if it does take it back for further readings. He mentioned the major cause of SES light On is the MAF, which he said they have to test as they dont want me to spend extra money on it.

As for the the OBC I don't know how to unlock it.

Thanks for the Info.


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

Sigh... latest, took my car to change the battery but the battery guy tested my battery just to be sure. He run a few tests with different machines & measure the acid. Well for the 3rd time battery comes out good & and the alternator it's in a good condition, but the SRS, ABS, SeatBealt steady lights randomly continue popping up 

To this point I'm going to give up and take it to the mechanic. He can deal with the headache & I will have to work my axx off if its something too expensive.

Thank you all for your feedback. If you had anymore suggestions postreply.

This a beatiful powerfull car but lately I just want to 
(740iAL) :violent:


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Originally you reported alot of things going on... 


Vokuro1 said:


> Trans failsafe progrm.
> SRS light on.
> ABS light on.
> Brake light on (Steady Yellow) along with this the brake lights will stay on like as I pressing the brakes.
> ...





Vokuro1 said:


> but the SRS, ABS, SeatBealt steady lights randomly continue popping up



For just the SRS, ABS, and BRAKE (but not realted to the seatbelt or the brake lights in back actually illuminating/being on) is often the DSC controller.

www.ModuleMaster.com in Idaho does repairs, the website explains some of the issues.

Magnum's write up on ABS/DSCmodule.

sdmike's info on ABS/DSC module.

(And e38.org has a post about "unlocking the OBC.")

ABS/DSC controller:








Photo from oembimmerparts.com


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## Vokuro1 (Jun 28, 2009)

*Update*

Hello again,

After $280.06 dollars at the shop with nothing being fixed but only tested to find the cause of the issues with my car, find out that I need a lot of things to be fix:

Auxiliary Fan Assembly - Part $525.11 Labor $266.00

Gasket, Intake Manifold x3 - Parts $187.45 Labor $636.50

Second Air Pump, Air Pump control Valve - Parts $ 524.16 Labor $190

Ignition Switch - Parts $88.03 Labor $142.50

Air Mass Meter - Parts $ 403.37 Labor $19.00

Even after all these expenses they didn't exactly know what was wrong with my car they said for the SES they will have to first try the MAF and then go from there.

Anyway I like to work on my cars even I'm not experience with cars, (my grandpa told me one day the only way to know your car is to fix it yourself.)

So I went ahead and Changed the Ignition switch which was the cause for the Brake lights, SRS Brake & the wheel to go up and down, I got the info from these two links:

This one is to find signs of a failing Ignition Switch 
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1205148

This one is how to replace ignition switch
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/244045

Its been 2 days without a problem with the brake lights, SRS etc. :thumbup:

I'll be ordering the MAF from the website MR.Wong posted Thanks Mr. Wong

I do want to change the Aux fan, if you guys have any info in how to do this please let me know.

Have a good productive day.
:drive:

Oh and the "Trans fail program" never came back up!


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