# Urgent: Broke my brake line! $10 if you can help!



## steve500 (May 7, 2009)

So I was trying to change my cracked brake line hose (1996 E38; Driver's Side Rear).... but apparently it was stuck onto the car end fitting (vs. the caliper end)... not only did I manage to strip the mini-hex thing (circled in yellow), but the rotating caused the brake line to break off at the junction to the hex thing...

What's the best, least expensive way to 1) repair the brake line and 2) Separate the old brake hose from the stripped hex thing, so that I can replace it ?

I'm in somewhat of a rush to get the car working again, so I'll be happy to PayPal $10 to the first person who helps figure this mess out.

Thanks!

(note: this isn't a picture from my car, hence the lack of broken brake line!)


----------



## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

Difficult to tell what your situation is from your description.

If you can get or borrow and Easy-out set, it might help:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HJT1W631Z3D5F36AFXY

:dunno:


----------



## drivinfaster (Nov 24, 2007)

not sure of your exact production, so i guessed. here's a pic from real oem. do any of these parts look familiar??

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GF83&mospid=47528&btnr=34_0962&hg=34&fg=15

regardless, it sounds like you had a stuck fitting on the steel brake line that broke when you were trying to replace the rubber brake hose. this is not that uncommon, and i have had it happen on many types of vehicles. it is very fixable. :thumbup:

your best advice is to follow this steel line to the next junction, soak that fitting with pb blaster, and get a flare fitting wrench. napa had a set of 3 for less than $50.00 if i remember correctly, or you could try harbor freight, but they really aren't as good. (trust me, i did this for 15 years...)

remove the entire piece of steel line and take it to a parts house like napa (my fav), or one of the other local parts houses. even try a hydraulics repair place (like pardos, or something). the replacement line will be straight, and in particular lengths, so if you need to go a little longer that's ok. or perhaps join 2 shorter peices to make the best fit. either way you go to get the proper length, you will have to bend it. this steel line is pretty tough, so you can get some general bends in without too much trouble. tighter radiuses will need to be done with a tubing bender to reduce kinking, but work it slowly and gradually reduce the radius. don't try to do it all in 1 fell swoop. any final 'tweaks' can be done with both end secured into their proper fittings to make sure there are no areas of contact with the rest of the chassis.

you will need to know the fitting sizes, so please do not damage them. if you cannot get the old fitting out of the rubber brake hose, take the new brake hose with you as a guide. 
please keep in mind the threads of the new fitting need to be the correct pitch, which is why they need to be matched.

if the line is a very odd size and needs to be cut, then it must be double flared (special proceedure and kit needed, might be rentable).

not sure where you are, or what your time constraints are, but if i am close enough i am willing to try to help you out on this. just pm me if you have any questions.

df


----------



## steve500 (May 7, 2009)

Thanks for the fast reply! It's the #9 line that's damaged, the end that's on the rightmost side of the image is the one that sheared off. Right now, #9's fitting is jammed in the old hose.. The problem with that is that sandwiched between the two is the bracket that's welded to the frame, and it looks like there's no way in #### the old fitting is going to budge (it's as rounded off as rounded off gets!) - is there any harm in using a Dremel to cut it out?

(it's basically the same setup as what's in the picture, excluding the part that I crossed out in red)

I looked at the #9 brake line, and it looks like it would be a bear to pull out of the vehicle. Would the double-flaring method mean that I just cut off the end and "splice" some new line in?

Actually, since the cut is right at the end... could I just put a new fitting on it, after I give it a clean cut? If so, how would I go about installing a fitting on the end of the line? What tools would I need if I was doing this?

One last question for you! Would this be an ok flaring kit? Autozone has it for rent.. http://tinyurl.com/yebavtg

Thanks so much for your fast response! Don't forget to PM me your Paypal email address! (I'm in Daytona Beach by the way... I don't suppose you're anywhere near?)


----------



## drivinfaster (Nov 24, 2007)

daytona beach is a little far for me to drop by as i'm in jersey. 

as for trying to cut and flare the line, it would not be advised. it would be difficult to make the flare correctly on a radiused part, if not impossible. also, you would need to replace the rounded fitting, and those are not readily available. not only that, but the line would wind up being too short after the double flare (if it could be made properly) was made. 

if you do need to do a double flare, straight sections are the easiest to manage. and yes, the tool kit you posted is sufficient, but not the easiest one to use. 

the best bet would be to order the proper part if you had the time. if not, then you would need to remove the old line and match it up. it will be a bear, but these are repairable. 

as far as getting the old pieces out, is there a clip under the metal tab that retains the line or hose?? if not, it should be in there with a rubber grommet. have you tried prying it out?? silicon may help. 

i have not had to replace the rear brake lines on this chassis, so i am not absolutely certain of the nuts and bolts, but in general they are secured via clips, grommets, or various brackets attatched to the rubber hose. 

i could give you more specific info if you were able to post more pics of this particular area to try to help you out.

don't worry about the funds. 


df


----------

