# Is a regular car detailing shop OK?



## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Or does BMW require special treatment? Just need to clean and wax. Thanks


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Any good detailer should be able to get your car back in shape. In other words BMW cars are no more different than any other car on the market when it comes to detailing and cleaning.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Thanks. Car still new, just need a good wax before going into the winter. If only I had a piece of flat land and a hose!


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

whoever said:


> Thanks. Car still new, just need a good wax before going into the winter. If only I had a piece of flat land and a hose!


My suggestion on protection for the winter is a sealant and then top off with wax...sealants are much more durable for the winter months


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Sealant is like Zaino? Or any particular brand you recommend?

Also, is there some kind of dry cleaning product for the car? Like in between detailing and car wash, I can just dust off and a quick wipe the car without any water?


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

whoever said:


> Sealant is like Zaino? Or any particular brand you recommend?
> 
> Also, is there some kind of dry cleaning product for the car? Like in between detailing and car wash, I can just dust off and a quick wipe the car without any water?


Mm, check out the California duster. Also, a bottle of quick detailer with microfibers. Lastly, for a convenient wash, check out optimum no rinse wash. No need for a hose. Then you can give your car a "wash" in the dead of winter in the garage if you wanted. The NR wash also acts as your QD at higher concentration.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Great, exactly what I'm looking for. A few dumb questions:

- When you say quick detailer, you mean Meguiar's Quick Detailer? Or just a generic term?

- The microfibers, is the big pack from Costco good enough or I need to get something better?

- You say NR acts as QD at higher concentration, does that mean one replace the other?

- And finally, what are the actual steps? Duster, NR dry wash and QD? Do I do wax or sealant after that as an option?

Sorry if these sounds too stupid. My Honda Civic hasn't got any real wash in like ten years. The best I did was throw some soap on it before a rain storm, may be once very other year. It turned out shiny and spotless coming out of the detailing shop when I sold it. Guess that's not going to fly with BMW :rofl:



Ilovemycar said:


> Mm, check out the California duster. Also, a bottle of quick detailer with microfibers. Lastly, for a convenient wash, check out optimum no rinse wash. No need for a hose. Then you can give your car a "wash" in the dead of winter in the garage if you wanted. The NR wash also acts as your QD at higher concentration.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

1. Generic, but I do happen to use Meguiar's Ultimate (black bottle, regular QD is red).

2. I prefer better, and I think I have the same that Costco carries (zwipes). The Costco ones are small, not plush, unsatisfactory for use on windows because I perceive "smearing", and unsatisfactory for interior because little pieces come off of it easily. They are my cheap stuff that I'll use on wiping jambs 'n sills immediately after a wash for instance, or for occasional use on wheels/tires, etc. I have many brands now, and I think I prefer Cobra so far. Well worth the premium for paint use, IMO.

3. One does not replace the other; they just have different applications. Google and read.

4. There aren't really steps, because using QD or duster will never replace a real car wash. I was trying to answer the topic of what to do in-between car washes or details. 


Of course sealant/wax are final steps. I have never, nor do I intend to for the foreseeable future, used sealant. A true detail goes something like this:

wash
clay
polish(es)
sealant
wax

IOW, you don't wax after a simple session of QD for instance. I could* see using a wax after using the NR wash at the proper concentrate, but I doubt I ever will do that.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Thank you so much. Guess I'll combine paid full detailing, dealer free car wash and some quickies.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

whoever said:


> Thank you so much. Guess I'll combine paid full detailing, dealer free car wash and some quickies.


NO on the dealer free car wash! I have a red clay pencil in my car specifically so that I can write NO WASH on my windshield when it goes to the dealership.

A full clean car wash is not even half an hour of work. It's money in your pocket each time you don't pay someone.

Paying for full detail makes sense depending on how much time and money mean to you. However, the price for a full blown detail is enough money to give you an entire detailing outfit with many products, many MFs, and even a DA (dual action) orbital with pads to spare. So, you do a detail just one time, and eveything you bought just paid for itself already. By the second time, you've kept hundreds of dollars in the pocket.

JMOs.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

I have a hard time finding a flat surface for something simple like oil change, even though I have had all the equipments at hand. That's why I ask if it's possible to do sealant and wax after dry wash. If the "true detail" involves water in any stage, I have no choice but to have it done somewhere else.

I'm not an auto fan and perfectionist, as long as I can keep it in a no-rust-no-apparent-scratch-from-distance status in the foreseeable future, I'll be very happy. Any simplified process that can foot the bill? Thanks.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

Please, check out Optimum No Rinse wash. After your paint is good whether it is already or you have it polished, then use ONR, followed up by choice of sealant/wax. It's very easy. Couple of cap fulls in a bucket, appropriate amount of water. Yes there is water, but it doesn't touch anything but the bucket and car. Wipe/buff with second MF. You can do it in a garage no problem at all. You can save by using this as QD as aforementioned, just higher concentrate. Whaddya think?


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Thanks for all the great advice, I'll start experimenting.


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## nonlinear (Feb 4, 2010)

I'll vouch for ONR too. I wash my car in a multi-story garage where it's parked at an angle. So I have no hose and no level surface either.

I use a one-bucket method, which means the water in which you dip your sponge/mitt is going to start looking nasty, but don't worry about that. ONR's polymers enclose the dirt particles and they sink to the bottom of the bucket. The particles that do stay on your microfiber washing mitt/sponge are enclosed in the polymer and don't scratch your car. Indeed, I've looked closely at my finish under a strong light and there are absolutely no scratches or swirls from using ONR.

About once a month or whenever my car gets dirty, I do a wash with ONR and I use Stoner's Invisible Glass on the windows. Takes no more than 30 minutes. Twice a year (roughly once before the snow starts and once after it stops) I wax the car after doing a normal ONR wash. Once a year I throw in a clay bar before waxing. I don't use sealant.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

whoever said:


> Thanks for all the great advice, I'll start experimenting.


You're very welcome. I might suggest a WW (waffle weave) for the drying aspect, though a regular one still works fine. The WWs generally come in pretty large sizes.

If you ever feel you need it, claying is pretty easy (a whole lot easier than polishing for instance), and a bar (or two) is around $10-20. Just use the ONR at the "QD" concentration as your clay lubricant. Do small patches at a time, and wipe off when done with the patch. If you ever drop your clay, you must* throw it away. Don't use the whole bar, break them into workable pieces. You should get a number of applications out of a single purchase (which means you might be set for years, if at once or twice a year), unless the car was extremely contaminated. Some people clay their windows too.

Oh, let us know how you like the ONR.


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## tommyv (May 29, 2007)

Poor boys waterless wash is great too. It comes in a spray bottle too, so no bucket or water needed. Just spray it on and wipe it off. I used it on my black sapphire 328xi for 3 winters and it works incredibly well with no swirls.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

I saw BMW has an Express Wax and a Hard Wax with Nano technology. Is it better than, say, Meguiar NXT wax in department store? Thanks.

http://accessories.bmwusa.com/ItemV...ategoryId=&menuId=6&subItemId=2&productId=117


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

whoever said:


> I saw BMW has an Express Wax and a Hard Wax with Nano technology. Is it better than, say, Meguiar NXT wax in department store? Thanks.
> 
> http://accessories.bmwusa.com/ItemV...ategoryId=&menuId=6&subItemId=2&productId=117


I think there are some that believe that BMW car care products are very good, and in fact they are. However the OTC stuff is just as good in most all cases.

BMW most likely has that wax made for them at the same place that a lot of car care products are made under other labels


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## djfitter (Sep 12, 2007)

Ilovemycar said:


> NO on the dealer free car wash! I have a red clay pencil in my car specifically so that I can write NO WASH on my windshield when it goes to the dealership.
> 
> *A full clean car wash is not even half an hour of work.* It's money in your pocket each time you don't pay someone.
> 
> ...


It takes me 10 to 15 minutes just to get everything ready, 30 minutes to do the wheels, and upwards of an hour to wash/dry, and that doesn't include the interior. :dunno:

dj


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

djfitter said:


> It takes me 10 to 15 minutes just to get everything ready, 30 minutes to do the wheels, and upwards of an hour to wash/dry, and that doesn't include the interior. :dunno:
> 
> dj


My interior is usually **** and span, and maybe every 4 washes, all I need to do is a light dusting. It is garaged, not my daily, and all 6 windows have ceramic tint. Anyways, I was presented the same issue/question just yesterday, and here is my response:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5534001&postcount=16



Ilovemycar said:


> I don't always quick wax the car after a wash, and I don't think this thread was addressing that.
> 
> Let's see what do I do. Sonax spray the 4 wheels. About 1.5 minute? Mildly agitate with wheel brush, 2 minutes for all 4 wheels? Few capfuls of one of my 3 washes I own into my Home Depot bucket, with a gallon or so of water. 30 secs?
> 
> ...


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Finally get it done before winter.

Can't tell how ONS worked. My car doesn't have much dust, the water is almost clean afterward. However, there are many small dots scattered from place to place. Unless you soak and finger nailed them one by one, it's very hard to get rid of them all. I finally give up and just wipe it through.

The other thing. It doesn't seem to need much wax, does it? The wax bottle weigh almost as before it started. If I try use more, it leaves streaks. The car does not look much difference than before, but water does bead well (although I don't know if it was like that before).


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## Bullitt (Nov 13, 2010)

To give you some info, the car won't look much different after a wax and/or sealant. May add a little depth and slickness. The LSP only accounts ime about 2% of the overall look. All the hours spent with the Prep Work is where you get your gloss. A wax is just a protective barrier between the elements attacking the paintwork. When I'm through jeweling a car, that's 99% of how it's going to look when I'm finished; even of I'm using Souveroun or Dodo Juice; the list go's on and on with LSP's you could apply to the car. You do want a sealant first then wax. Many show car owners will just use a carnauba because they know they will wax it at least once a month and it doesn't suffer from the elements. Waxes can bond to sealants after they've cross-linked, but sealants can't bond to waxes. So keep that in mind. I like to use a wax topper because even though it only accounts for 1-2% of the final look; sealants have great reflective qualities but a good Brazilian Ivory Nauba gives off a more rich, deep look. Sorry for the grammer and run-ons, but I'm on a phone. I'll post some of the Bimmers
I've done to help you understand by actually seeing me do the work; actually dont know if this link will work on my phone, but here it go's; you can also view some other
M3's, M5's and some of the cars I actually get time to take pictures of and document. If you want an idea of how long it takes me to wash a car just look up the "Our Process" Album which I just built and am working on. http://picasaweb.google.com/houstondetailauthority/New335iCorrectionStraightOffTheShipI understand that everyone can't spend 45 minutes on one wheel, wheel well and tire by rinsing(I use Camspray), using the right pH balanced cleaners where necessary, agitating, dwell time(let the product do it's job), using various brushes etc. etc. At least try to make sure to remove any loose contaminants before applying a mitt to the paintwork(you don't want to sand your paint with microscopic contaminants(ever wonder why even though only you have washed the car and you still start noticing swirls?). Use 2 buckets or even 3 with at least two grit guards in each. Rinse and clean every crevice(again, if you just wash the panels while grit is coming out of the seams, it's going right on your mitt and guess where it ends up next. Another good tip is to tsk the attachment off the water hose and use it for your final rinse; you'll be surprised at how little you have to dry. Get a blower or purged air of some sort to get to the crevices and use a WW microfiber for drying(DD has some good ones); chaomois can catch debris and scratch the paint. I would also really inspect your paintwork under the halogen lights or Xenon Lighting
if it's new; you probably won't think it's so perfect(but it could be). I'm reconditioning
The paint of a brand new 335 w/ the M-Sport Package that is straight from Germany right now, and the paintwork is horrible to my standards, but most buyers would see it as fine. It is swirl ridden, with some transfer, and a whole lot of water etching that's already in the CC. This car was never touched by the
Dealer, but at some point(probably in Georgia) they must have had the
plastic off, because the water spots are terrible and not something that came out with just a clay bar. If your car is new; the first thing you should do is clay it. You don't want to seal in all the contaminants it picked up coming from across the pond; and the new one in my shop with less than 20 miles on it has plenty of contaminants, as well as metallic contaminants.


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## whoever (Jun 9, 2009)

Wow, that was some work. Unfortunately, it probably won't last an afternoon in my part of the town. Believe or not, I have to carry a bucket of water and walk 10 minutes to my car to have that job done.

Kind of miss my old Civic. 12 years of hot sun and cold snow with just rain wash. Not a single rusting or chipping when I sold it. I heard everything on a BMW last shorter because of "performance". So is the "performance" paint?


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