# To the photographers here...



## Hercules (Jul 15, 2002)

Any recommendations when looking for a flash? (another question to follow up too)

I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT, and while it takes great shots during the day, the night shots leave a lot to be desired. I am assuming that an external flash will make up for my woes. I have yet to learn how to use the camera to its fullest, but I haven't had the time.

Any recommendations for books or online resources you'd use for learning (as a newbie) how to use an advanced digital SLR to take better shots, motion, lighting, etc? I'm not good with photography, just a "point and shoot" kind of guy, but now as more important events come closer to light, I would definitely like to learn. 

Thanks for the help!


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## Deepak (Jan 23, 2007)

Hercules said:


> Any recommendations when looking for a flash? (another question to follow up too)
> 
> I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT, and while it takes great shots during the day, the night shots leave a lot to be desired. I am assuming that an external flash will make up for my woes. I have yet to learn how to use the camera to its fullest, but I haven't had the time.
> 
> ...


It's a digital, so the best thing is to shoot all the time. Anytime you see interesting light conditions take a shot - even if it's a picture of nothing.

Fast lens > flash for low light. Overusing flash in poor lighting will lead to washed out subjects, and will also contribute to photos where the background is all black. Use a diffused bounce flash when it's called for.

http://www.bythom.com/index.htm
http://photo.net/
http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

Lens is your problem. If it's a zoom, not enough aperature. A prime, a la 50mm for instance, will get you better night/low light shots. Zooms are slow, especially consumer zooms.


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## sponge_worthy (May 10, 2006)

Learn how to use the EV compensation and how to calibrate it using the image histogram.

I also recommend this book for understanding fundamental concepts.

http://www.amazon.com/Understanding...290224?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193676397&sr=8-10


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## Griffoun (Jan 19, 2006)

Not sure what kind of night shots you're trying to take?

I have a 430EX flash. Even with the external flash, you need to use it properly. Some would create a home-made diffuser / bouncer and some would buy a GaryFong accessory attaching to the external flash.

I haven't read any books specific to this topic, but here are a few sites that I visit occasionally.

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#distancedata
http://www.morguefile.com/archive/classroom.php
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html


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## Fast Bob (Jun 4, 2004)

Use somethin like a Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce to broaden & soften the flash`s effect....you`ll lose a little light, but if you`re shooting TTL it won`t matter.


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## sponge_worthy (May 10, 2006)

If you acutally want some real help and advice on your "night shot...woes" ... you should post one your night pics that's an exemplar of the problems you're having along with EXIF info - so people can see what the actual issues are and offer more directed advice to address the problems. Otherwise, this thread is kind of pointless.


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## e46Christian (Feb 27, 2003)

Have you tried cranking up the ISO as well? I agree with the others re: the lens. Buy a cheap 50mm prime (the 1.8 is a great value), crank up the ISO to about 800 or so and then see if you still need to use the flash. 

Bear in mind, the higher the ISO, the more noise you'll get. It's a tradeoff.


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## Hercules (Jul 15, 2002)

sponge_worthy said:


> Learn how to use the EV compensation and how to calibrate it using the image histogram.
> 
> I also recommend this book for understanding fundamental concepts.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Understanding...290224?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193676397&sr=8-10


Just bought it, on your advice and the advice of LOTS of Amazon reviews!

That said, I'm going to read that book thoroughly and then make a decision based upon what I learn, either to buy a new lens or not.

FYI -- I have the "default" lens that came with the Canon. I don't know the size though... whatever the default is 

Sorry I'm a n00b.


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## e46Christian (Feb 27, 2003)

Hercules said:


> Just bought it, on your advice and the advice of LOTS of Amazon reviews!
> 
> That said, I'm going to read that book thoroughly and then make a decision based upon what I learn, either to buy a new lens or not.
> 
> ...


Drop $50 on the 50mm 1.8. You won't be sorry.


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## #5880 (Feb 11, 2006)

I think you have the EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens

:thumbdwn: for night shots

f is like the iris of your eye. A 3.5 doesn't open enough for the dark.

Also, you need to learn the "modes" of your camera.

In low light you need to be in "A" mode (aperature) and force the lens "wide open"

http://cgi.ebay.com/Canon-Lens-EF-5...oryZ4687QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But be careful, once you go fast prime

It gets expensive!


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## dadtorbn (Oct 3, 2003)

Hercules said:


> Just bought it, on your advice and the advice of LOTS of Amazon reviews!
> 
> That said, I'm going to read that book thoroughly and then make a decision based upon what I learn, either to buy a new lens or not.
> 
> ...


A whole lot depends on what you're trying to shoot at night. I personally hate flashes. Unless you really know how to shoot low light with flash everything has a washed out look IMO. I prefer either a lens with so-so zoom with image stabilization or a fast 50mm lens. Image stab. will let you hold the aperture open longer to let more light in without blurring the photo much and you'll still have good depth of field. A fast 50mm lens lets a lot more light in but your DOF will be much less. A shallower DOF isn't a problem for most common low light shots. If you're trying to capture motion and low light a flash is the only way to go.


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## Hercules (Jul 15, 2002)

Will that lens autofocus? 

And do you know where I can find a link for somewhere OTHER than eBay for that item? Would appreciate a reliable place to buy... I don't mind dropping the $50 or even a bit more if it's brand new.

Thanks!


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## e46Christian (Feb 27, 2003)

Hercules said:


> Will that lens autofocus?
> 
> And do you know where I can find a link for somewhere OTHER than eBay for that item? Would appreciate a reliable place to buy... I don't mind dropping the $50 or even a bit more if it's brand new.
> 
> Thanks!


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html

These guys are located right in NYC. I'm a Nikon shooter, but I believe this should autofocus on your XT.


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## Hercules (Jul 15, 2002)

e46Christian said:


> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html
> 
> These guys are located right in NYC. I'm a Nikon shooter, but I believe this should autofocus on your XT.


Bought and paid for... I bought a $50 backpack too, since I figure now carrying around an extra lens it will be a good idea.


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## HW (Dec 24, 2001)

Hercules said:


> Bought and paid for... I bought a $50 backpack too, since I figure now carrying around an extra lens it will be a good idea.


i ordered 2 of those  (one for me and one for my sister). still waiting for it to come in.

which backpack?

i have the lowepro ex180 that came w/ this kit

http://www.adencamera.com/prod-overview.asp?ProdID=1149&Category=11

and this one

http://www.lowepro.com/Products/Toploading/designed_digital/Rezo_TLZ_20.aspx

thinking about getting a cooler looking bag

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/384126-REG/Crumpler_MD0403A_4_Million_Dollar_Home.html


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## EdCT (Mar 14, 2002)

Hercules said:


> Any recommendations when looking for a flash? (another question to follow up too)
> 
> I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT, and while it takes great shots during the day, the night shots leave a lot to be desired. I am assuming that an external flash will make up for my woes. I have yet to learn how to use the camera to its fullest, but I haven't had the time.
> 
> ...


The best thing about an external flash is it allows you to redirect and "bounce" the light source, eliminating that flat, brightly lit in-your-face flash that mars most photos.

The shot of our cat (R.I.P.) is an example of bounce flash from the SB800 external unit I bought for my Nikon D70s.

The shot of our family room is a typical on-camera boring flash shot.

The on-camera is good for fill flash, however, especially out of doors as in the two-shot of the Z4's.

Ed


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## hockeynut (Apr 14, 2002)

Hercules said:


> Will that lens autofocus?
> 
> And do you know where I can find a link for somewhere OTHER than eBay for that item? Would appreciate a reliable place to buy... I don't mind dropping the $50 or even a bit more if it's brand new.
> 
> Thanks!


It does autofocus, just doesn't zoom. You use your legs for the zoom 

I got mine for $79 at a local photo store, brand new.

For online, try http://www.bhphotovideo.com

(and if I had scrolled down farther I would have seen that you already got it from them!)


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## sponge_worthy (May 10, 2006)

Hercules said:


> Bought and paid for... I bought a $50 backpack too, since I figure now carrying around an extra lens it will be a good idea.


Since you're shopping... you might want to get yourself a $10 UV filter to protect that new lens.


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## HW (Dec 24, 2001)

sponge_worthy said:


> Since you're shopping... you might want to get yourself a $10 UV filter to protect that new lens.


i'd recommend a circular polarizer as well. i ordered the filter kit from tiffen. comes w/ a UV and circular filter for about the same price as just the circular alone!

(edit) just picked up my camera stuff purchase. just have to say that the quality of the tiffen filters are just not as good as the canon UV filter nor my sister's circular from Jessops. :tsk:


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## Fredric (Mar 29, 2007)

Hercules said:


> .....Any recommendations for books or online resources you'd use for learning (as a newbie) how to use an advanced digital SLR to take better shots, motion, lighting, etc?.....


One great online resource for all kinds of questions that you may have about photography is:

http://www.dpreview.com/

And here is an online reference for in-depth information about using flash with your camera.

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/


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## NarPhoto (Oct 23, 2007)

from someone who goes to Brooks...

and by all means im not tryin to be a dick.

1. flash is your worst enemy, especially night shots.
2. read your manual if you have it dude...will help you so much...

some other things about taking night shots..

if shooting in manual mode...

see how much light you have and see how much you need...play with your ISO. and always have em between 100 and 400.

for a rebel its the top arrow button...if not the bottom..

Play with your AWB. it has different settings, it has pre setings on what kind of light you want in the picture. if you dont know it too well just leave it on AWB. the button to that is probably the bottom arrow or the top...

use a tripod aswell=]


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## AeroSmith (Nov 2, 2007)

*Here's a great web resource:*

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php


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## Erhan (Oct 28, 2007)

sponge_worthy said:


> Since you're shopping... you might want to get yourself a $10 UV filter to protect that new lens.


dont use a filter to protect a lens. it does not work. it is just a glass, if it cracks, it will scratch your lens. use a hood. that will prevent damage. think a second, if some think going to hit the lens, it will crack the filter, and filter will scratch the lens.. if you use a hood, you will prevent something touch your lens's front element. also when you are not using your camera, put a cap on the lens.

also, every piece of glass you put in front of your lens degrades the image quality, reducues the resolution and increases the risk of glare.


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## FastWoman (Nov 18, 2007)

Hi Nick,

Well, I do this stuff professionally, so here's my 4 cents...

Ditto what someone else said about bouncing the flash. I try never to use flash unless it's (1) for minor fill, or (2) well off-camera. Use natural lighting wherever possible. Shoot up to ASA 800 if you need to. Your camera will do that very nicely, with very little noise. If you need flash for your main lighting, try to find a white surface to bounce it off of. If you can't bounce it off of anything convenient, and quality matters, aim it straight up or to the side, and bounce it off of a big piece of foam core board or a white umbrella (even the variety used for walking in the rain). If that's not convenient, put a mini soft-box on it. The worst thing you can do is to aim your flash directly at the subject.

The comments about primes are valid. A fast prime lens can give you a few stops more light than a typical zoom lens. However, consider image stabilization or even a tripod at other useful and perhaps better alternatives. Primes are sharper, but if you're most people, you'll never notice. In fact the zooms nowadays are getting quite good, almost as good as primes -- just heavier, bulkier, and more expensive. The advantage of a zoom is its versatility. For instance, you can compose foreground/background relationships the way you want. Besides, switching lenses every few minutes with a digital is bad news. By the way, if you're relying on a fast lens to capture all the light you need, you'd better make sure you don't need much depth of field. You can't have it every which way. Most shots of cars are probably going to be in the f/8 - f/16 range anyway, just because of the required depth of field. I'll put any of my L zooms against anyone else's L primes in that range. It hardly matters at that point, as the limiting factor begins to be diffraction. Even at wider apertures, I still prefer my zooms to my primes, for their versatility.

I like to shoot a lot with IS (image stabilized) lenses. I've got a steady hand, and I can shoot a tack-sharp frame with a normal focal length, hand-held, at 1/4 sec. I can shoot an acceptably sharp frame, handheld, at 2 sec, if I take the sharpest of perhaps 5 frames. It's all in the stance, the grip, and the form. If you use a tripod, you can shoot up to 30 sec exposures with your camera, provide nothing is moving in the picture. You only need the fast lenses and/or the extra lighting if you're trying to capture things that move fast. So if it's a parked car, put away the flash and go natural. If it's a car speeding down the road, you'll want the fast lens and/or a lot more flash power than you'll be able to mount on your hotshoe! Hint: Some of the Sigma lenses are actually fairly good, and some, but not many, will let you stabilize vertically and not horizontally, so that you can track a fast-moving object. Nice feature. 

Finally, you SHOULD use a protective filter on your lens! Yikes!! And if you're in an environment that would risk an object flying into the lens and breaking it, you'd better consider moving to someplace safer. That being said, don't buy an expensive lens and skimp on the filter. A good filter (e.g. a Pro-1 or HMC) is practically invisible and will keep your lens sparkly clean. A cheap filter (e.g. an uncoated Tiffin) is a piece of junk that will ruin your shots (introducing flare and diminishing sharpness considerably). Don't use a polarization filter if you don't need it, because that will rob you of light. And if you're willing to manually adjust your exposures, consider a linear polarization filter in preference to a circular one, for such times as you really do want to polarize. (Polarization filters can give you nice reflectance effects.) The linear filter is more efficient and has one less layer, making it optically superior. Again, same rule: You need a GOOD one if you're going to use one at all -- especially for the polarization filters.

Hope that helps. Good luck, and happy shooting!

Sarah
(Canon photographer :thumbup


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## FastWoman (Nov 18, 2007)

By the way, the subject was raised where to get stuff. Of the NYC dealers, most are fly-by-night and will rip you off six ways to Sunday. The two recognized names for honest NYC dealers are Adorama and B&H (www.adorama.com and bhphotovideo.com, which someone else recommended). However, there's also a smaller dealer called Tristate (www.tristatecameravideo.com) that has always been above board with me. (Ask for Jack.) They're a bit cheaper on most items. If you want to buy used, check out Midwest (www.mpex.com), located in Columbus, OH. Of course the best deals on used stuff are on Ebay, but with Midwest, you won't have to worry about the condition.


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## FlyingDragon (Jul 4, 2007)

I have a Canon 20D and used to have a Digital Rebel XT which I use with my Canon 430 EX. When using it indoors I point it 180 degree straight up and set it to EV +1 or 0 depending on the distance from your subject.

I don't like to use my 50mm in low light situations because of the lack of sharpness due to the wide open aperture. I tend to use it when I want superior sharpness in my pictures.


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## sweetsilver (Oct 12, 2007)

*FlyingDragon*
The shot you posted on the beach could use an ND filter along with a polarizer..... Way blown out.

*Hurcules* ~ Practice, Practice, Practice....... If you don't even know what kind of lens you have then you FOR SURE need to learn more on lenses and just DSLR's in general. 
One of the best places I've found to ask questions and learn tons of stuff is POTN!!
Click here...
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/


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## FlyingDragon (Jul 4, 2007)

sweetsilver,

I actually lighten the pic a bit in photoshop so you can see the couple. If I had to do it over again I wold use an ND filter (since you suggested it), a lens hood, and a reflector. I'm thinking I should have metered the couple first then frame my shot, that would probably give me a better exposure. I'm always learning about this great hobby.


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## EdCT (Mar 14, 2002)

FlyingDragon said:


> sweetsilver,
> 
> I actually lighten the pic a bit in photoshop so you can see the couple. If I had to do it over again I wold use an ND filter (since you suggested it), a lens hood, and a reflector. I'm thinking I should have metered the couple first then frame my shot, that would probably give me a better exposure. I'm always learning about this great hobby.


That shot on the beach is about the toughest you can get right, so don't be too hard on yourself.

I think you're right, you could "spot meter" the couple, lock it in then reframe and shoot.

You could also take two exposures, one for the sun, one for the couple and combine.

Ed


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## sweetsilver (Oct 12, 2007)

EdCT said:


> That shot on the beach is about the toughest you can get right, so don't be too hard on yourself.
> 
> I think you're right, you could "spot meter" the couple, lock it in then reframe and shoot.
> 
> ...


That would probably get the best results.....


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## JBss (Feb 19, 2007)

This might be of some help for indoor lighting.

I made a cheap little reflector to bounce the light off of the walls/ceiling

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=433798


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## HW (Dec 24, 2001)

JBss said:


> This might be of some help for indoor lighting.
> 
> I made a cheap little reflector to bounce the light off of the walls/ceiling
> 
> http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=433798


i've done the same with a white translucent plastic beer cup.


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