# 01 740iL - Clunking noise and steering wheel shaking



## umoms (Oct 13, 2007)

On my 2001 740iL my brakes were squeaking even when I wasnt pressing the brakes. My mechanic told me I needed new rotors and pads front and rear. Got it done and the sqeaking noise is still there. Also, I am not sure if its related is I hear a clunking noise that seems to come from the front drivers side, especially apparent when I go over bumps. Two other mechanics said they "think" its the lower control arm or ball joint.

My question is does it sound right? Do I need to change both control arms or can I just replace the bad one? My vehicle has 96k miles. I am also told that you can't buy the bearings or the bearings on these dont go bad its the control arm. Any thoughts?


Also what could be causing what sounds like break squeaking even when I am not hitting the breaks. The control arm also?

I had the tires checked out and they didn't need balancing or anything.

One last issue is after I been driving for 10-15 minutes my entire front end shakes, including steering wheel and floor area. It is more apparent at faster feeds and even more apparent when driving at a speed of 40mph and braking. Could the control arm be doing this also?

I am also told that the brake calipers are sticking also and those need to be replaced also. And those are a cause to all my frustrations also.


My problem is I took it to 6 mechanics total and all said different things.

What do you guys think? I am trying to fix what needs to be fixed and thats all.

Thanks!


----------



## mandrews1119 (Jan 13, 2008)

Hey umoms,
We could ALL speculate about what the problem may be, but until you get to someone you feel you can trust to give you the correct diagnosis, we can only agree it may be a host of problems, some interrelated, some not. The kind of shaking you are getting makes me think it is MORE than one thing. Generally speaking, the shakes are caused by several different things. If you are trying to make repairs by troubleshooting, then you are going to have to systematically fix each item until the problem is solved. My advice is to find a shop near you that will stand by their word. Test it, drive it, break it down and see. It all SEEMS like something until you inspect the part and test it.


----------



## drivinfaster (Nov 24, 2007)

wow, sounds like there are a few issues here with this vehicle. first off, did you replace the brakes yourself (i diy my bmw's whenever i can, but that's me...) or did a shop take care of it for you?? (if so, did they *just* replace the brakes/rotors, or did they actually take measurements and road test before and after the repair?? did they make any other recommendations, did they hear the clunk??)

i would be a little bit suspect of a shop that threw brakes at a car without even mentioning possible other concerns, especially with almost 100k on the odometer. most flat rate techs will salivate at a chance to get the next repairs 'set up', meaning they would inform you of what else should be done asap, and some other recommendations to be done as maintenance services as well as suggested services that should be considered over the next few routine services (oil changes, tire rotations, and the like) this would be done not to scare you away, but to try to inform you on the best way to maintain your vehicle and reduce costly unexpected (key word there) repairs. (i can't tell you how many times a car came into the shop for a routine oil change and came back 2 days later with the brakes grinding metal to metal against the rotors. (can you say *NOT* a happy customer...)

when you spoke with the mechanics, did you take them on a test drive and point out the noise(s) that you re concerned about?? or did you just try to pick their brains?? (this, by the way, is considered unholy to do to a technician that you are not on a 'brought you some coffee/donut/danish, first name basis) i know, because i was one and there are people that do this all the time. i would throw out several scenarios ranging from common to extreme, but all were plausible, just to confuse them should they try to be a weekend warrior. (nothing wrong with that, but even superman had his limits)

as far as possible causes for the clunk (without actually hearing it) would be:

sway bar end links (most noticable over light bumps, usually short and sharp knock)
these i liked to replace in pairs because it saved a bit on labor (flat rate usually deducts 1-3 tenths for a 'both' catagory) and the one not replaced would usually wind up needing so within a few weeks anyway. not a likely cause for shimmy/shakes.

struts (usualy more noticable with potholes, speed bumps, can be shart and sharps as well, but it takes a bit more to get it there than a sway bar end link. usually a bit heavier sounding and accompanied with a floaty suspension) may or may not need mounts, depending on wear & tear/abuse. (not likely, though i would venture to guess) slight chance for shimmy, but i would say you would have a whole lot more issues if you let your struts get this bad. like ready to fall off the chassis bad. 

control arm/ball joint/control arm bushing (also include pull rod, strut rod, lateral strut rod, and a whole buncha different names for essentially 'front suspension' components) 
all of these guys tend to be a bit more sneaky, and depending upon suspension design, can be checked different ways. regardless, these are considered 'zero tolerance' units, which means that *any* play in the ball and socket joint(s) is considered worn and out of spec, requiring replacement. noises tend to be more pronounced under load, through turns, or when transporting heavy loads. noises tend to be dull, thud like, but can progress sharper and louder as the component reaches total failure (separation from the socket). can produce shimmy/shakes. 

tires (not a noise concern other than growl/howl/hum related to wear, which would point toward loose/worn steering & suspension components) very likely to cause shimmy, shake, up & down bouncy feel down the road. this could be as simple as out of balance, or even out of round, worse case is broken belt, which is very unsafe. 

tie rod ends, usually not a noise concern unless turning the wheel, but can create shimmy/shakes. again, a zero tolerance part.

inner tie rods, similar to the tie rod ends, more shake/shimmy than noise, but possible through turns. zero tolerance part.

rack & pinion unit, most of the time noises and shakes due to the r&p can be traced to a worn or broken mount/bushing component. least likely cause of your concerns stated, but plausible. 

steering shaft (connection between the steering wheel and gearbox/r&p unit), very likely cause of noise when driving. tends to telegraph vibrations from the road and create buzz/humm like rattling, sometimes accompanied with middle sharp to dull thump(s). repairs (on several different makes i worked on other than bmw) varied from component replacement to re-lubricating the shaft with heavy silicone grease to take the play out of the shaft. 

sorry if this was a bit long, but there is so much to the suspension and steering systems. there really are no short answers. hope this helps.

drivinfaster


----------



## umoms (Oct 13, 2007)

Ok heres what i replaced so far:

Front Brakes + New Rotors
Rear Brakes + New Rotors
Front Driver Side Lower and Upper Control Arm
Rear Driver Side Upper Control Arm
Rear Passenger Upper Control Arm

The noise when driving over a hump went away but the steering wheel shaking is still there.

I notice it only shakes after I been driving the car for 10 minutes or so. It wont happen right away. It happens a little bit when I am accelerating or even with my foot off the gas and brake. But it is 10x more noticeable when you hit the brakes. The entire front end shakes. 

Someone told me that my passenger side brake caliper looks bad so I am going to try to replace that along with the front rotors again.

If that doesnt fix it Im gonna take a peak at the tie rods again...And if thats not it I dont know what else to check...Maybe both front wheel bearings are bad? But i think the bearings are on the hubs....

Ill keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the informative reply.


----------



## mandrews1119 (Jan 13, 2008)

Without seeing it I would say replacing the front lower control arms took care of the clunk. Now there are new bushings and no more room for movement or play, no metal touching metal there. Most problems felt while braking are usually that, problems within the braking system, with all that you have done so far, calipers are a likely next place to check. If not worn, the hydraulics pushing them together may be at fault somewhere. I know the feeling, I am due for a front end preventive overhaul soon as well. Has anyone broken the front end down completely? When the new equipment was put on, what did the shop say to you?


----------

