# Goodbye ENET cable, Hello ENET WiFI!



## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

I have too much time on my hands and like to solve problems. Got tired of always plugging in the ENET cable for coding and diagnostics so I decided to explore a wireless alternative. The idea is to leave a module plugged into the OBD2 port and switch the ignition and the module on, then code/diagnose from the comfort of my sofa 
Update with V1.1, no microusb cable, did some SM soldering 

























https://youtu.be/5oPo-gjo4o4

What I basically did is hack a TP-Link TL-WR802N, an OBD2 connector, buck converter and miscellaneous parts to build the final product. I tried the concept before I integrated all the parts and armed with Wireshark, I devised a configuration for the wireless router to work with the car.

I may still need to tweak few things for the box but overall it works really well, and I don't have to sit anymore in my garage to code or diagnose! It was too much miniature soldering in tight areas, if a product like this exists I'd gladly buy it and not build it!

And recently I discovered I can stream data via ISTA/D from many ECUs :rofl:
https://youtu.be/Pulcp0SxnKQ


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## botho (Jun 3, 2014)

Nice


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## bomax (Nov 23, 2013)

Ingenious!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

bomax said:


> Ingenious!


The idea is ingenious but the DIYer is a retard and an idiot, I just broke the switch handle,  it took hours to solder and prepare the wires and shrink and now it's wasted, FML...


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

I bought a $40 stereoscopic microscope and very very fine tip for my iron from amazon. Specifically for soldering tiny SMD components. If you went through all of that trouble, you should have used a flatter power switch and removed the microusb and ethernet headers in favor of direct wiring.

Besides, version 2 always comes out better than ver 1.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> I bought a $40 stereoscopic microscope and very very fine tip for my iron from amazon. Specifically for soldering tiny SMD components. If you went through all of that trouble, you should have used a flatter power switch and removed the microusb and ethernet headers in favor of direct wiring.
> 
> Besides, version 2 always comes out better than ver 1.


I actually wanted to do that, I have a fine tip but no experience with soldering SMD until after I finished this project at 2:30am and was pushing wires inside the box and inadvertently dislodged a freakin tiny SMD resistor. It took me 20mns to be able to find it, hold it in place and solder it 

The toughest part is to arrange the darn rigid cat6 wires inside for the Ethernet connection, I should have went with cat5 for the 2" of that internal cable.

I searched hi and low in my local city electronics shops and couldn't find a low profile latching switch! However removing the Ethernet and micro usb makes the unit unserviceable in case. can you share the link to your soldering tip, mine is 1/64" and use a 25W soldering iron.

I just finished redoing all the wiring with a smaller SPST switch ... Not touching it again...


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Microscope: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEKWKIA
Just the Tip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9S0Z0O

I also bought tiny rosin core solder, flux paste, and soldering wick.

Yeah, it's a 1/32" and it might as well be a pounded nail head under the microscope. However, I was very successful at re-attaching the microusb to my tablet when it decided to come lose on me. (Nvidia Tegra Note 7, notorious issue). I have a weller iron, not sure what wattage, but I have an old vacuum pump that has a dial to adjust the voltage of the outlet the iron plugs in to. So I was able to control the heat and get everything lined up.

The hardest part of anything is finding that 3rd or 4th hand to hold everything still. I used the microscope arms, as well as a "helping hands" thing to get everything nice and connected. I also had to clean up the old contacts with a new razor blade.

Sorry, I wasn't knocking the build in my last post, just trying to think of improvements I would try if I were to try and make one of these. I love the idea and would be very handy, as being wired to the car can be difficult, and your neighbors wonder why you're in the car for hours at a time :/


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> ...
> The hardest part of anything is finding that 3rd or 4th and to hold everything still. I used the microscope arms, as well as a "helping hands" thing to get everything nice and connected. I also had to clean up the old contacts with a new razor blade.
> 
> Sorry, I wasn't knocking the build in my last post, just trying to think of improvements I would try if I were to try and make one of these. I love the Idea and would be very handy, as being wired to the car can be difficult, and your neighbors wonder why you're in the car for hours at a time :/


hahaha, it seems we all have the same challenges in electronics, we need more than few hands to manage. I have most of the stuff, flux, ... its just darn hard to grab these 1mm resistors... Your suggestion is great, it was the first thing i considered as I dont like the look of the ethernet/microusb connector but was discouraged by how small the Ethernet pins are, even smaller than the microusb!!!

I used my iphone6 as a microscope  it worked ok when i soldered that tiny resistor, which i know will come loose one day!


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## oceandiver86 (Jan 25, 2015)

nice work you should start building them...


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## Almaretto (Nov 17, 2015)

Good work!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

oceandiver86 said:


> nice work you should start building them...


Hahaha not for a million $ ! it's just so much work to cut the box and make irregular holes, ... when you don't have the tools. Aside from the tiny minuscule awkward little space you have to maneuver in there. Now I know why most electronics are done in China, they seem to have smaller fingers to allow to maneuver better.

But it's cool solution coupled with an HP Win10 tablet I got for free with air miles, now I have full diagnostics (Rheingold) and coding (Esys) on the go! and without the wires dangling between my legs when driving (sometimes I test different parameters and used to keep the laptop plugged in as driving).


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## Gabrola (Jul 20, 2016)

aboulfad said:


> Hahaha not for a million $ ! it's just so much work to cut the box and make irregular holes, ... when you don't have the tools. Aside from the tiny minuscule awkward little space you have to maneuver in there. Now I know why most electronics are done in China, they seem to have smaller fingers to allow to maneuver better.
> 
> But it's cool solution coupled with an HP Win10 tablet I got for free with air miles, now I have full diagnostics (Rheingold) and coding (Esys) on the go! and without the wires dangling between my legs when driving (sometimes I test different parameters and used to keep the laptop plugged in as driving).


That's not how it works lol. Now that you have a working prototype, you design a PCB with all these components on a single board and then start mass producing on an automated assembly line


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> However, I was very successful at re-attaching the microusb to my tablet when it decided to come lose on me...
> /


An idea for the shelved V2 is to keep the external female connectors and solder on the inside. The microusb pins look feasible but check the Ethernet pins, super short and close! And one would need to find wires that can hold up to 1/2A and still hook up to the SM pins...


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## shawnsheridan (Jan 10, 2009)

: popcorn:


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> An idea for the shelved V2 is to keep the external female connectors and solder on the inside. The microusb pins look feasible but check the Ethernet pins, super short and close! And one would need to find wires that can hold up to 1/2A and still hook up to the SM pins...
> 
> View attachment 571151


Easy, don't use the ethernet SMD, use the transformer pins... that chip looking thing labeled "1530P" on the bottom line just behind the ethernet and usb. That is a 1:1 transformer which is part of ethernet standards. It electrically separates the wire from the circuits. You may be able to trace the port from the header to the "cable side" of the 1:1 transformer.

On the microusb, you can usually see ground going to the whole of the circuitboard, and then a trace going somewhere else for +5v power. You can probably find something bigger to solder the +5v lead to down the line a bit.

When tracing ethernet, pin 1 and 2 are a +/- pair, polarity matters. pin 2 and 6 are another +/- pair, and again polarity matters.

This way, you can leave the headers unmolested, and still plug in to them when the unit is not connected to the OBDII port.

Should mention, the car and the tplink router are both 100Mb/s connections. This means you only have to wire pins 1,2,3,6 pin 4/5 and 7/8 usually get shorted to ground on 100M connections, so that's 1/2 the wiring needed already. But do pay attention to the enet cable build, if those pins need special attention.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> Easy, don't use the ethernet SMD, use the transformer pins... that chip looking thing labeled "1530P" on the bottom line just behind the ethernet and usb. That is a 1:1 transformer which is part of ethernet standards. It electrically separates the wire from the circuits. You may be able to trace the port from the header to the "cable side" of the 1:1 transformer.
> 
> ...


Great suggestion, thanks! You know I googled all the components but never thought about tracing! some may be easy to trace but given this is a multi layer PCB it may be harder. I'll keep this in mind for V2 

I also would have to isolate the internal power wiring to the microusb as if i plug an external supply, it would probably send 5V into the output of the internal buck converter I used, I think a simple diode may do!

The eth transformer is dooable but is still be a challenge as the cat6 wires are rigid and thick... yes I can use maybe thinner wires but have to find or twist some... FYI, pins 1,2,3,6 and 8 is used to connect the OBD2 ground pin.

And here is my nice wiring diagram (OBD2 ENET to T568B)






I take it you drew the wiring based on the specs of the eth transformer!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

shawnsheridan said:


> : popcorn:


Hahaha, what flavour? And here's the V2 specs that I promised you at BP:

1- Internal wiring for power and Ethernet, but keeping the ports for maintenance. (Need to isolate internal power wiring, and practice surface mount soldering)
2-Latching push button with integrated led light, (now it's a separate led w a toggle switch ) OR some kind of automatic on/off based on ignition. Have to source a small latching push button and find an ignition near OBD2. 
3- Personalized vinyl graphics on router box !
4- Smaller enclosure encapsulating custom router electronics (unlikely as this is serious stuff...) in order to clear the foot well more
5- Cant think of more requirements!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Ok for those that may be inclined, there's an easier version that I originally wanted to do but chose the more integrated version. Basically you put the buck converter, switch and wire out the power and Ethernet lines from the OBD2 housing to the nano router. Of course that still requires some knowledge in electronics, circuits, networking, ...

And here is a video of the action doing remote wireless diagnostics with ISTA  sorry about the crude way to hide my VIN 
https://youtu.be/5oPo-gjo4o4


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> ...
> And here is my nice wiring diagram (OBD2 ENET to T568B)
> View attachment 571172
> I take it you drew the wiring based on the specs of the eth transformer!


Nope, I just followed the traces by eye and guessed... Most of the 1:1 transformers I have worked with are typically pass through devices, pins on both sides are typically mirrored.

YOu will see a center tap connected to ground in most cases, the TX +/- and RX +/- will have an empty pin on both sides. From the "chip side" of the transformer, you will count four traces going to the MCU, this would be the isolated side of the tx / rx pairs. (don't wire directly to that side of the etherent)

Depending on the build quality of the buck converter, you can typically back feed (within output spec) voltage on the low voltage side and be mostly be fine. You would worry more if this device was powered by battery rather than a car on a charger or however you're powering the car. Adding a diode or rectifier to isolate the buck converter from micro-usb supplied power is good, but be mindful of voltage drop. You might see a volt dropoff going through the diode. This may not be a problem if the nano router ultimately downsteps / regulates the rest of the system at 3.3v for stability.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> Nope, I just followed the traces by eye and guessed... Most of the 1:1 transformers I have worked with are typically pass through devices, pins on both sides are typically mirrored.


I forgot I took a macro shot :rofl: I was thinking you had super eyes! I should be able to verify that w a cont tester.



> Depending on the build quality of the buck converter, you can typically back feed (within output spec) voltage on the low voltage side and be mostly be fine. You would worry more if this device was powered by battery rather than a car on a charger or however you're powering the car. Adding a diode or rectifier to isolate the buck converter from micro-usb supplied power is good, but be mindful of voltage drop. You might see a volt dropoff going through the diode. This may not be a problem if the nano router ultimately downsteps / regulates the rest of the system at 3.3v for stability.


Good point about the diode forward voltage of 0.7V, the buck converter is good quality with input/output short circuit protection, don't know what will happen if reverse voltage is applied to output side, but another solution is to connect one of the microusb pins to the switch! Thanks for your helpful suggestions, now the pressure is on to build V2!


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

I'm really tempted to attempt this myself.

I added everything needed (via amazon prime)(except bits of wire) to my cart, ~US$52 to buy and ship all components. If I didn't just buy some euro tail lights for my f10, I would pull the trigger on it right away. I might need to wait a month or two. I'm sure I can rummage around my bin of parts and find the resistors and switches, probably a few 5v converters, but I like having new parts for "final" builds...


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> I'm really tempted to attempt this myself.
> 
> I added everything needed (via amazon prime)(except bits of wire) to my cart, ~US$52 to buy and ship all components. If I didn't just buy some euro tail lights for my f10, I would pull the trigger on it right away. I might need to wait a month or two. I'm sure I can rummage around my bin of parts and find the resistors and switches, probably a few 5v converters, but I like having new parts for "final" builds...


Much cheaper on eBay but takes longer... obd2 is $3US, tl-wr802 or 702 from$22 US. BUCK converter is $1.2US  how come so expensive on Amazon?

Btw the network config is special, I can share the details. And if you choose an integrated setup, obd connector in the router, there's few tips for you.


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> how come so expensive on Amazon?


searching for delivery via prime... free next day  
I WANT IT NOW!!!

Honestly, I can source the same components locally by taking a nice drive down to santa clara / sunnyvale and hitting up HSC and frys. I'm just lazy.



aboulfad said:


> Btw the network config is special, I can share the details. And if you choose an integrated setup, obd connector in the router, there's few tips for you.


I assume the config is actually providing DHCP on the 169.254.0.0/16 network for the wifi clients? Or did you go full bridge mode and set a static IP in windows?

I haven't looked, can you get a dd-wrt or tomato build for that nano router?


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

@kajer, I wish I lived in your area to have access to an infinite supply of stuff! Anyhow, ZGW seems to always assign the same ip addr based on APIPA in 169.254/16. When I first used DHCP in another subnet as RFC3927 section 1.6 recommends against DHCP IN 169.254/16, it worked initially but after when I wanted to use a direct connection, the car was stuck in the other subnet, so I had to recycle ignition and let it sleep, as well do some cleanup on the laptop so it fell back to APIPA. For one hour I was ****ting bricks as I couldn't connect using either Esys or ISTA. 

First lesson was exactly what you guessed, a DHCP in the APIPA subnet although not recommended by the standard. Second change was a DHCP mac addr réservation to ensure the car always gets the same IP it used to self assign itself, maybe not necessary but I didn't want any chances. And last the router needs to be in access mode! Of course static IP addressing could have worked too but didn't feel like remembering the different IP addr for the different tablets/laptops.

The other version WR-703N can support openwrt widely, WR802N has some sketchy support!


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

The 169.254.0.0/16 address space is a weird thing. The last two digits are to be derived via your local network adapter's MAC address. So, the self-assigned address you get will be "unique" to each machine, based on the MAC in the network adapter.

What is weird, is if you setup a dhcp server and assigned the clients a 169.254.0.0/16 address, then it ""should"" have worked. You're not changing the L3 broadcast domain nor are you changing the L2 collision domain. As long as a DHCP client or APIPA client is using 169.254.255.255 as a broadcast address, it should have worked.

Just to test this all out, I want to say ****it to my budget and go forward with the project...


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

I said "DHCP in another subnet" in my previous post but I meant "another network", mea culpa! I used a public network (10.x, 192.,...) NOT the APIPA subnet as section 1.6 of RFC3927 recommended against using DHCP in 169.254/16 but I now believe that is meant more for a general network and not like what we are doing...

It's only $50-$60, I'll wire transfer it to you if it provides you joy and happiness  the hardest part was hacking the box to fit the OBD2 connector and not being able to find a small latching switch and soldering in a tight space and that darn 0.6W 1% 510-560ohm resistor... i finally took the one from my ENET cable.


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

I'm not worried about the $50 in the long run. I mean, how the hell can I afford an F10 if I can't do away with $50... I was just saying that usually for projects like this, I like to limit myself to a budget. I burned most of it finding a 4 piece set of LED euro tail lights with amber indicators for US$400 

After I'm back from a few tech conferences in the next few weeks, I'll order a travel router and some connectors, and take a shopping trip to the local electronic supplies.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

@kajer, sorry didn't mean to make you look cheap, my bad! We all have budget and priorities so I respect that. Good luck and post pics when you get to it!


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

No offense taken, I'll post back when I have something to show. Cheers


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## JamRWS6 (Apr 8, 2013)

Nice idea but why not just connect the laptop and then Remote Desktop to it from the comfort of your study, couch, etc?


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## Almaretto (Nov 17, 2015)

JamRWS6 said:


> Nice idea but why not just connect the laptop and then Remote Desktop to it from the comfort of your study, couch, etc?


This prototype is more versatile. You can code and diagnose on the go using tablet without dangling wires as well as from the comfort of couch or home office with multiple monitors and full keyboard.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

JamRWS6 said:


> Nice idea but why not just connect the laptop and then Remote Desktop to it from the comfort of your study, couch, etc?


good idea too, but where do you put the laptop? one of my design goals was it must be out of the way, so you can drive with the "device" without obstructing anything. An extension to your idea would be an embedded Win board tucked away somewhere that you rdp to it. Another design requirement was minimal power usage, the "device' i have consumes 100mA, and 20mA is the nice blue LED, the wifi router anywhere from 40-200mA depending on the transmission power, currently set to medium. So if one is lazy and doesnt want to connect a PSU or trickle charger for light to medium connection sessions, you could do away with it and its power consumption is negligible compared with the ignition ON.



Almaretto said:


> This prototype is more versatile. You can code and diagnose on the go using tablet without dangling wires as well as from the comfort of couch or home office with multiple monitors and full keyboard.


Yes, however i havent tried multiple connections !!! thats an interesting use case which I will try by connecting Esys and ISTA simultaneously. UPDATE: yep it works, so ZGM allows multiple TCP sessions from different apps/hosts


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## JamRWS6 (Apr 8, 2013)

aboulfad said:


> good idea too, but where do you put the laptop? one of my design goals was it must be out of the way, so you can drive with the "device" without obstructing anything. An extension to your idea would be an embedded Win board tucked away somewhere that you rdp to it. Another design requirement was minimal power usage, the "device' i have consumes 100mA, and 20mA is the nice blue LED, the wifi router anywhere from 40-200mA depending on the transmission power, currently set to medium. So if one is lazy and doesnt want to connect a PSU or trickle charger for light to medium connection sessions, you could do away with it and its power consumption is negligible compared with the ignition ON.
> 
> Yes, however i havent tried multiple connections !!! thats an interesting use case which I will try by connecting Esys and ISTA simultaneously.


The laptop sits in the front seat of the car. I guess the difference is for my use case I don't want something else in the car plugged into the OBD port. I would find almost zero use for driving with the device plugged in. If I want to code or diagnose the laptop remains in for that session and then comes out. I personally don't think plugging into the OBD port is that hard or time consuming to warrant a solution like this.

That being said I really do appreciate what you're doing here and I think it is actually pretty cool. I just see extremely limited use for it. Definitely subscribed to see your results!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

JamRWS6 said:


> The laptop sits in the front seat of the car. I guess the difference is for my use case I don't want something else in the car plugged into the OBD port. I would find almost zero use for driving with the device plugged in. If I want to code or diagnose the laptop remains in for that session and then comes out. I personally don't think plugging into the OBD port is that hard or time consuming to warrant a solution like this.
> 
> That being said I really do appreciate what you're doing here and I think it is actually pretty cool. I just see extremely limited use for it. Definitely subscribed to see your results!


Sure, different input requirements lead to different solutions, I'll explain my use case 
1. I am lazy 
2. I diagnose and code and experiment a lot, leaving a laptop inside the car, well takes one laptop away from what i have! I would also have to have the laptop connected to an outlet, more wires, ...
3. I also try different coding combinations after driving the car (ASD, MDM, VLD, ...), so I stop, change, then drive. Havingthe laptop and ENET cable in the car was bothersome to do that with a cable in the way.

May I ask why are you concerned with having something plugged and OFF in the OBD port? And what results are you waiting for? I have been using it since I build it.

BTW, agreed that its usage in that fashion (coding, diagnosis, flashing?) is limited, but one just needs to think of that killer app and then everyone wants one :bigpimp:


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Damnit... I bought the TL-MR3020

It fully supports OpenWRT, supports 3G modems, and is still a small form factor. Once I start the build, I'll post back here...

The tear-down pictures on the openwrt site shows the case has enough room to support a few additions as well as some decent solder points.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

@kajer, that still looks like a good model! FYI, few hints, check the clearance of your obd port and based on that adjust the position of the connector in the case. 

Also I found it useful to have a led installed that shines a light so I know the unit is On. The lights on the case are facing up so you won't see them. Have fun building it!


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

The pictures posted made it look like there was a lot of room for additional components, and most of the modification homework has been done by the nice people on the OpenWRT wiki.

There are labeled (on the wiki) points where to draw +5 and +3.3v as well as where the supply side of the 5V rail is... So, for the connector and casemod, I'm planning on a different method. I got one of these "flat" right angle obdII cables. I have one installed in the F10 permanently, routed directly off of the OBD2 port, into the dash and ultimately into the driver's side cubby hole.

My plan is to epoxy or type 400 3m dual-lock the connector to the router and run the flat cable into a small notch I'll cut in the router body, . When I build things, I like to try to keep the parts largely available for re-use later. Chances are on this build, I may not even flash OpenWRT, but I like to have that option later; plus it was $3 more than the 300Mbps router you used.

I'll be less concerned about mounting the box in my F10 than placement in to the wife's F30. I recently remembered I left my bluetooth OBD2 scanner in her car, and that was when I did the fog lights in her car to check before / after temps of oil and coolant. (being that the primary reason for not offering fog lights on the msport f30 was because of the aux cooling radiators) So, if the giant bluetooth dongle hasn't been kicked off, I probably will have plenty of room for the tiny travel router. The dual lock would also let me place the router as snugly as possible wherever the mounting location is.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

@kajer, that's a cool idea to run the flat obd2 cable to the driver's cubby, but how are you connecting that end to the router ? are you doing another custom cable that plugs into the obd2 flat cable and the router ?


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Yeah, I plan on cutting the flat cable and basically doing a 180 degree loop from the connector into the case. I'll cut a small notch on one side and feed the flat cable through. I'll hide the 12V-5V converter in the case as well as the power switch and power indicator LED. From the cut cable, I'll solder the leads for ground and ethernet directly to the pins on the PCB, and feed the 12V side through the power switch then the buck converter.

I'm going to test the 5V isolation of the converter, and if there isn't significant load, then I'll directly attach the +5v side to the pcb with no diode or switch in line.

I ordered the router and cable from amazon prime, and stopped by the local radio shack for the LED, switch, and 510ohm resistor. I can work on assembly tonight if all goes well.

The interesting part, is with OpenWRT, the TL-MR3020 has a TTL level serial port. With a bit of effort, this could open the door to the E-series coding via wifi.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Can't believe you still have a radio shack!!! It closed in Canada or changed to circuit city some time ago and they have zilch for components. Even specialized electronics stores locally didn't have any 1%, 1/2w 510-560ohm, the resistor in my ENET cable was 520ohm. 

Btw, given router operating voltage is 3.7-5.5V, using a diode is ok! Serial port, what's that ???


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> ...circuit city...


?!?!? You still have a Circuit City?! :rofl::yikes:


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Hahaha, that used to be radio shack!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> ... and stopped by the local radio shack for the LED, switch, and 510ohm resistor. ...


Hi, can you please measure your resistance? I got an order from eBay for 510ohm, 1/2W, 1% and the values for different resistors is anywhere between 505 and 509. I couldn't find much info on the value of that resistor, some docs say 511, some others list a range of 510-560hms.

Don't really understand it's purpose, it connects pin 8 (ETH_A) to in 16 (T30F), I think it's meant to power or wake up ZGM...


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Well, the weird part is, most electrics use ~10K ohm as their "pull-up" or "pull-down" resistors. So, if the purpose of the resistor was to bring a signal high, you can probably do that with a 10K... However, now that I think about it. Maybe it's already pulled "low" by a 10K somewhere, and in order to get a nice "pull-up" and avoid and voltage divider nonsense, they are using ~500ohm?

I don't know, just a guess.. The resistor I used measured 510ohms on my DMM. The colors are GREEN-BROWN-BROWN-GOLD on the resistor I used.


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Pictures attached. Captions are on my imgur album: http://imgur.com/a/8UJkk


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> Pictures attached. Captions are on my imgur album: http://imgur.com/a/8UJkk


Awesome! So does it work  ? Did you also use access mode on your nano router? With your the way you did it, I guess there's no need for an extra LED, because you can see the routers lights! Oh and you used a 1/4w resistor, hmm..,

Btw, what type of glue do you use, just hot glue to keep solder joints/cable from moving? Great job :thumbsup:


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

I have not "used" it yet, as I keep a bare copy of windows 7 on a separate SSD for use with ESYS, and that laptop is in use for another project at the moment.

I did get the router setup with another laptop, and set it for "AP" mode with no DHCP server. I set the router's static IP as 169.254.254.254 /16. I disconnected everything but USB power and let my laptop connect to the nano router. After a few minutes, I got a 169.254.x.x ip address and was able to open the router config page at the previously mentioned IP address. 

If I connect the AP to my home ethernet, I get an address from my local DHCP as well as an IPv6 address from my IPv6 router. So, this tells me the AP is bridging ethernet to the wireless and not doing any weird NAT or firewall filtering of any sort. I have no reason to believe it won't work in the car. 

As far as 1/2W vs. 1/4W... Most of the ENET build guides I have found use 1/4W resistors.

No glue. some 3M VHB tape to keep the OBD2 connector and the 5V converter in place. I don't plan on driving much with the device connected, so I'm not worried about vibrations on my solder joints. Most of the soldering on the large leads are done and wrapped with heat shrink. The stuff connected to the PCB is using the thin gauge wire from the flat obd2 cable. that stuff is very flexible and probably won't vibrate enough to crack any of the slobber joints. That's the great use of the microscope; you can see the wire bonding with the slobber and can see a bad joint right away. Using the scope, it was easy to see a well bonded joint.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Argh, most of the enet build guides I saw, in Italian and German mention a 0.6W 1% which was darn hard to find locally... btw, the reason I chose a DHCP server, but reserve the ZGM addr, is there's few other IP hosts in my car  but that's for another thread!

I need me a microscope but now I've hit my budget  especially that I ordered three more setups to maybe build and tweak further ! I am driving with it connected as a stress test, maybe not a great idea...


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEKWKIA

Price went up!!! I got mine for ~US$40

sorry


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

That's OK, in any case it's not available at Amazon.ca ... Ill add something equivalent to my wish list.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Ok add to the list of usage, flashing  I flashed successfully a swfl of 50Kb using the device. I wouldn't envision to use it for a full update or flash huge ECUs like HU, but this worked great. Of course you have to go to the garage to hook up the PSU (although not needed for 2mns of flash) but the rest was done from a distance, Esys TAL processing, cleanup with Rheingold, ...


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## dipo71 (Jan 8, 2013)

My friend did better and smaller:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/10297247/


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

dipo71 said:


> My friend did better and smaller:
> https://www.drive2.ru/l/10297247/


Well, I am happy for your friend!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

Well, in preparation for the next version, I decide to cut the cord  And wire things internally... which I hate as my eyes are bad and don't have a microscope!


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

*Data Streaming via ISTA/D*

Recently discovered that ECU functions in ISTA/D stream in realtime!
https://youtu.be/Pulcp0SxnKQ


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## Almaretto (Nov 17, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> Recently discovered that ECU functions in ISTA/D stream in realtime!


Yup. I play a lot with the ECU tree that way.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

I wish there's a way to poll multiple ECUs at once... @Almaretto did you get your gizmo?

Btw I may have found a cheaper way to make this wifi gizmo, so I may offer it for free for some members  once I finalize the new design and receive the parts from eBay which like takes forever ...


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## Almaretto (Nov 17, 2015)

aboulfad said:


> I wish there's a way to poll multiple ECUs at once... @Almaretto did you get your gizmo?
> 
> Btw I may have found a cheaper way to make this wifi gizmo, so I may offer it for free for some members  once I finalize the new design and receive the parts from eBay which like takes forever ...


Nope, not yet. Still waiting on delivery.


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## kajer (Jul 6, 2015)

Took long enough, but I connected my wifi to my F10 tonight. Best device ever. No more wires, and a perfect coding experience.

Activated SERVICE_HISTORY in HU_CIC and not a single problem.


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## aboulfad (Jun 5, 2015)

kajer said:


> Took long enough, but I connected my wifi to my F10 tonight. Best device ever. No more wires, and a perfect coding experience.
> 
> Activated SERVICE_HISTORY in HU_CIC and not a single problem.


:thumbup: I use mine very often, it's been very reliable so far.


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