# Sticky  Method for fixing deep scratches and rock chips



## Jetfire (Jun 20, 2002)

Ripsnort said:


> Excellent, I will check the product out. Off to do a google search..
> 
> Edit: _"Your search - *Langkfa* - did not match any documents.
> No pages were found containing *"langkfa"*._
> ...


 It's langka:

http://www.langka.com


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

Thks, ordered a kit ($37.95)


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

I had a chance to use the Langka products yesterday. My analysis summary:

Great product for deep rock chips and deep scratches. Works as advertised, removing excess paint.

Its "okay" for scratches that penetrate thru to the primer (white finish showing, can feel it with fingernail) but in most cases one must again put touch up paint on and remove it again, until you get just the right removal of the paint with the Langka product. I found myself removing all the paint a couple of times in the shallow scratches, even with a light touch.

Overall, I'd say this product doesn't exactly replace the old fashioned method of sanding in *some cases* of shallow primer scratches, but its a "must have" on the detail shelf for those quick and dirty rock chips jobs.

I tried to photograph the "stages" I went thru, and before and after results, but as you can see, the reflection of my Jet Black is just too overwhelming to see anything. The pics below are the product ($44 with shipping) and a "Before" pic of paint applied to a shallow scratch. No "After" pic because frankly there was too much reflection, and this type of shallow scratch was difficult to see to begin with.
The full product contains a pre-paint cleaner (Alcohol would have been a good substitute), the "Blob" remover, a "Paint sealer" (P21S would have worked in a similiar fashion), a small paint brush (I had a few of these already) and a card ( a credit card would have been sufficient). I'd recommend getting just the "Blob" remover if you plan to purchase this, and use the products I suggested above for replacements.


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## 330soon2b (May 30, 2004)

Where do I find these items? Are there acceptable alternatives?


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## 330Legend (Feb 9, 2004)

Very impressive. I visited this forum because I have a pretty deep scratch on my passenger side door, but to tell you the truth, I doubt that I have the patience and steadyness of hand to use this method successfully. But Kudos to you, the results speak for themselves.


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## dsheli (Nov 29, 2004)

So I just want to make sure (before I start sanding my car) this will work for deep 1 mm rock chips (Corner of a rock hit my hood). When do you use the Machine Polish 1, 2, and 3? What kind of machine polisher is that? Looks good and small.
Thanks,
David


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## jetstream23 (Mar 9, 2004)

Some sand paper, a little machine polish and a pencil eraser.....Amazing!!! If you took your car to the dealership I bet they'd charge atleast $350 to get rid of that chip.


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## azn2nr (May 8, 2005)

Are there any differences in the random orbitals? I have one that was given to me which is a Road Xpedition brand. I am concerned about burning the paint.

thx


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## suntan (Aug 13, 2005)

*Mike's Autobody*

Hi! This is actually partially a plug for Mike's Autobody in Malden, MA. So, recently, my wife accidentally scrapped the bottom edge of the driver's side door of our new E60 on an elevated curb while opening it. There was paint damage and some chipping on the edge, but you couldn't see it unless you actually looked at the bottom edge with a handheld mirror. We went to many places to have the damage looked at and got various quotations for proposed repairs (some really outrageous ones too!). When Mike saw it, he told us (1) that the door was aluminium and therefore we do not need to worry about rust issues (our main worry at that point), (2) he proceeded to paint the surface using touch-up paint (he put on two coats waiting for each coat to dry before applying another) and clear-coat, and (3) he charged us a grand total of *nothing* for the service. All he wanted was to create goodwill with a potential future customer.

I'm personally extremely happy with his service and honesty and thought Boston area bimmer owners may want to know this info. But, I do have a question: is Mike right about the doors of the E60 being aluminium??

Cheers,
Suntan


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## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

Rip - thanks for posting this.

I have need for this technique for the first time this week. I discovered what looked like a tree sap stuff on the hood and it was actually a paint chip. 

Thanks for the info! :thumbup:


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## bmw378 (Nov 4, 2005)

*This is exactly what i needed*

I hit my e46 with a column on the back. where did you buy your BMW paint? at the dealer or can u order it online?


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## BimmersRule! (Sep 23, 2005)

You can go to the dealer or an OEM like Dupont and the paint is available online to order. Dupont is approved by BMWNA: http://www.spiesheckerusa.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction . I just ran over something metal last night  and have a few choice scratches. I will be implementing this procedure on my car as soon as the product comes in.


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## M3Fast (Dec 15, 2005)

*LANGKA Kit*

I have been using the LANGKA kit for several months now. It works very nicely. You can't get it in stores but its available directly from their web site. Here's the kit LANGKA paint chip repair kit and here's the howto for it http://www.langka.com/paint_chip_repair.php


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## wally719 (Dec 19, 2005)

has anyone tried Final Touch to fix chips/scratches?


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## roderi5638 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Non-Metal Portion*

Will the procedures outlined above also work on the plastic portions of my BMW? I have a nick right below the back passenger side door (i.e. plastic portion).


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## Calif65GM (Mar 27, 2005)

M3Fast said:


> I have been using the LANGKA kit for several months now. It works very nicely. You can't get it in stores but its available directly from their web site. Here's the kit LANGKA paint chip repair kit and here's the howto for it http://www.langka.com/paint_chip_repair.php


Thanks for the info on LANGKA. I just ordered it and going to try it out.


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

roderi5638 said:


> Will the procedures outlined above also work on the plastic portions of my BMW? I have a nick right below the back passenger side door (i.e. plastic portion).


I don't think so, once you penetrate the clear coat of the plastic I think you'd probably ruin the plastic beneath it. And to be honest, I'm not even sure if the plastic HAS clear coat...:dunno:


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

Calif65GM said:


> Thanks for the info on LANGKA. I just ordered it and going to try it out.


I've tried this product. Its okay, but doesn't work like sanding/touch up does...matter of fact, some of the paint has already come out of the areas I used LANGKA on...seems that LANGKA removes too much paint for the shallow scratches. I've not tried it on a really deep scratch. Works well with rock chip spots though! :thumbup:


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## Calif65GM (Mar 27, 2005)

Ripsnort said:


> Works well with rock chip spots though! :thumbup:


Thanks for the info. I'mm planning to use it on a rock chip spot.


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## 941papi (Feb 20, 2006)

Yeah, I have a '99 323i and I am pretty clumsy myself when it comes to repair work. What do I need to tell the "repair"
person I am going to have to hire to make sure they know how to fix the scar on my finish. I also want my paint to look like new again.


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## mapsbmw (Jan 16, 2006)

I recieved my first rock chip this week (damn rock was hugh, saw it coming). Taking sandpaper to my new car is not something I will do with out cringing......I have to ask, is it really harmful? Sorry if I seem a little afraid, because I am, but by little, I mean a lot!


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## jryguyi (Feb 9, 2006)

My 328i has many small chips in the paint from a hail storm. They are so small and dont seem too deep, but buffing them out with a scratch remover isnt working. Do you think this method will work for me?


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## flahertb (Jul 27, 2005)

*What about scratshes that aren't quite so deep?*

Thanks for the excellent post. I need a suggestion for fixing some scratches that are not quite so deep.

Some kids threw a stick at my wife's X3 on Friday. The one stick bounced off the hood leaving 3-4 good scratches. I think they just scratched the clear coat. Any suggestions on the best way to get them out? Will buffing with the Griots work?

TX


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

flahertb said:


> Thanks for the excellent post. I need a suggestion for fixing some scratches that are not quite so deep.
> 
> Some kids threw a stick at my wife's X3 on Friday. The one stick bounced off the hood leaving 3-4 good scratches.* I think they just scratched the clear coat. Any suggestions on the best way to get them out? Will buffing with the Griots work?*
> 
> TX


If they've just penetrated the clear coat, Machine Polishing should work. I've only got experience with Griots machine polishes, so I can't comment on other products.

If they scratches are deep (where white shows through which is primer, and you can feel the scratch with your fingernail) you may have to paint touch up.

Its scarey taking sand paper to your finish, but if you have the right tools to buff it out again, don't worry!:thumbup:


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## hoppa79 (Aug 9, 2005)

I have a cheapie craftsman random orbital buffer that delivers 3800 opm. Would that be sufficient to buff out the scratches and chips if I have all of the other tools? Or do I have to invest in the porter cable which delivers 2500 - 6000 opm. 

Thanks for your help and this great write up.


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## jryguyi (Feb 9, 2006)

Tried this method yesterday. Today at luch I noticed that I have spots like in the first picture of the second post all over my hood. They werent there yesterday after I used the scratch remover. Could it be because I didnt use Griot? I am so mad right now


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## BMW Detailer (Jul 11, 2006)

*drcolorchip touch up paint*

Try drcolorchip for paint chip repair. They make a one color touch up kit. The website says you need your paint code, but I only gave them the color name when I ordered. Haven't seen anything better unless you count the $1000 body shop respray job. It won't work miracles on key scratches but the chips came out great. No wetsanding either!


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## peoe2 (Nov 9, 2004)

BMW Detailer said:


> Try drcolorchip for paint chip repair. They make a one color touch up kit. The website says you need your paint code, but I only gave them the color name when I ordered. Haven't seen anything better unless you count the $1000 body shop respray job. It won't work miracles on key scratches but the chips came out great. No wetsanding either!


Have you tried Landka? Any comparisons? I'm asking because I've tried Langka and wasn't really impressed. Too much paint is taken out by the "bulb eliminator". How is drcolorchip?


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## pjhansman (Mar 29, 2005)

I had the dubious distinction of being the "poster car" for Dr. Colorchip at this year's Homecoming. Nothing like a black paint job for showing off a pile of rock chips. They spent a few hours on my Z3 to demonstrate their product. 

By nature I'm a pessimist, so I was pleasantly surprised by the results. This is a very simple (and it seems effective) method for covering up those nasty chips. It doesn't fill in the hole, but definately makes the car look better.

I'm still on holidays, but will post a few "before & after" pics when I get home.


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## BMW Detailer (Jul 11, 2006)

Yes, I've tried langka and was not overly impressed. It was ok on one or two chips, but if you have many to fix it will take you forever. You have to wait a day or so to let the paint dry and then use the stuff- which is basically a reducer of some sort- to rub away the blotches of paint. The Dr Colorchip kit is nice since it comes with the paint you need and the solution to remove the paint blotches. But you can do it all right on the spot with no real waiting time. For the price of langka and a bottle of touch up paint, you can get the Dr Colorchip kit and be done in an hour or less. Of course the body shop is still the best way if you want the car to look like it never had any chips at all.:bigpimp:


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## schley (May 26, 2005)

Rip great work..... the sticky is great and like an old friend here when you need it. :thumbup: 

I'm going to use your method for my hood. BUT what about the bumper? I know someone mentioned how to fix a rock chip in the front plastic bumper, anyone have any ideas? Thanks


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

schley said:


> Rip great work..... the sticky is great and like an old friend here when you need it. :thumbup:
> 
> I'm going to use your method for my hood. BUT what about the bumper? I know someone mentioned how to fix a rock chip in the front plastic bumper, anyone have any ideas? Thanks


I'll chime in with my process for scratches. I detail for a BMW reseller here in Kansas and recondition 1-2 cars per week. It's low volume, but allows me the luxury of spending a lot of time getting these cars detailed.

Typically, the bumper and headlight covers are the toughest to do. I usually use 3000 grit and a SnapOn air sander to remove light scratches and prep the surface for compounding and glazing.

Here's a 745i that I'm in the process of detailing. The hood and front area had several scratches and lots of stone chips.










You can see how I started to dull the surface I'm working on









Here's a shot of the hood after sanding. The center portion had serious scratches and I dulled the paint quite a bit.









I have about 1/2 the hood compounded









Headlight and bumper are compounded and polished









Hood and front completed...time to compound and glaze the rest of the car









Shameless reflection shot of the driver's side compounded and glazed









Overall, plastic is the toughest part of the car (I've burned a few mirror housings with a rotary). Use lots of care, check your work many times during your work, and start with the least aggressive product.

Totoland


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## rjcoston (Aug 22, 2003)

What is the part or model number of the Snapon air sander? Thanks


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

rjcoston said:


> What is the part or model number of the Snapon air sander? Thanks


I'll get the part number when I go to the shop tomorrow.

Totoland


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## rjcoston (Aug 22, 2003)

Any further information on the sander? Thanks


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

rjcoston said:


> Any further information on the sander? Thanks


Doggone It! I wrote it down on a Post-It and it's still at the shop. I'll get the part number by lunch and post it. My bad!

Toto


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

Here's the link to the Snap On orbital

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...9&group_ID=807&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Totoland


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## rjcoston (Aug 22, 2003)

Totoland said:


> Here's the link to the Snap On orbital
> 
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...9&group_ID=807&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
> 
> Totoland


Thanks


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## paulmurphyhomes (Feb 3, 2007)

good one!


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## 5Thirty (Dec 8, 2005)

DISASTER - I had a rock chip with a few scratches, bought the Duplicolor scratch and chip repair kit. I used the clear coat, now it has ugly blob. I tried to sand it down with the sandpaper that comes with the kit, make things worst. I have haze around the repair and I tried to use the compound to polish it out, no use. What can I do? Help!


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

5Thirty said:


> DISASTER - I had a rock chip with a few scratches, bought the Duplicolor scratch and chip repair kit. I used the clear coat, now it has ugly blob. I tried to sand it down with the sandpaper that comes with the kit, make things worst. I have haze around the repair and I tried to use the compound to polish it out, no use. What can I do? Help!


Give me some details on the chip and I can try to help.

1. Location of chip and size (pics would help)
2. Plastic body panel or sheet metal
3. What grit sand paper did you use
4. What compound did you use
5. Do you have access to a rotary polisher or pc

Holler back and I will try to step-by-step help

Totoland


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## 5Thirty (Dec 8, 2005)

Totoland said:


> Give me some details on the chip and I can try to help.
> 
> 1. Location of chip and size (pics would help)
> 2. Plastic body panel or sheet metal
> ...


Hehe I feel so stupid...I have been using the wrong pad on my buffer  
I changed the pad last night and used the compound that came with the kit...problem solved. I still have some more to sand, but now I feel much comfortable sanding since I know I can buff out the haze. Thanks Totoland.


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

Good to hear it worked out. That is ONE sharp vehicle you have!!!!!!

Take care

Totoland


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## LeMansX5 (Sep 27, 2004)

So what is the best method to treat a 6" vertical scratch(from parking close to garage door) on plastic bumper, deep enough to feel with nails? Shall I start by using a 3000 grit on porter cable and then compound. Any recomendation for compound?


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

LeMansX5 said:


> So what is the best method to treat a 6" vertical scratch(from parking close to garage door) on plastic bumper, deep enough to feel with nails? Shall I start by using a 3000 grit on porter cable and then compound. Any recomendation for compound?


If it's deep enough to feel with a fingernail, it might have scratched to the base material. You could certainly try 3000 grit and follow that with compound. Above all, take your time and work the area with the porter cable. Careful not to get the plastic too hot!...check the area you are working with the back of your hand for temp. If that doesn't work, you will be faced with building up the gouge using touch up paint (I'd recommend a hardener mixed to speed the process).

Toto


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## LeMansX5 (Sep 27, 2004)

Totoland said:


> If it's deep enough to feel with a fingernail, it might have scratched to the base material. You could certainly try 3000 grit and follow that with compound. Above all, take your time and work the area with the porter cable. Careful not to get the plastic too hot!...check the area you are working with the back of your hand for temp. If that doesn't work, you will be faced with building up the gouge using touch up paint (I'd recommend a hardener mixed to speed the process).
> 
> Toto


Thanks.


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## johnnygraphic (Jun 26, 2004)

After 3 years and 38k miles, I finally jumped in and tried this out on perhaps 20 or so tiny rock chips on my Imola Red ZHP. Most of them were on the hood and about 3 were on the sides of the car. 

This process works very well. I will however tell you that I had a few 'problems' and will give perhaps a suggestion or two, but I'll let the experts chime in who have tried it and let them vote on it.

First off, the factory touch up paint I had was a little 'thick', so the paint turned out to be tiny little globs on top of the rock chips. I would suggest using a smidgen of thinner so that the paint flows into the chip. The pencil eraser is a good idea, but a pain to work. No real suggestion here, but I guess the main thing is to work in a small area. 

I used 1500 and then 2000 wet/dry sandpaper. I wound up with little uneven parts in the paint where the paint was sanded down in the area around the glob. See the issue above which might help this. The repairs look a little like an old scar when you look at the paint from the side-you can see little round dimple-but you have to look really, really close. 

I was using a wool pad and then a yellow compounding pad and Menzerna's Intensive Polish and it took me quite a bit to get rid of the scratches. I would go another round on a lighter sandpaper so that you'd spend let time with the porter cable. Perhaps 3000 grit. Also, with each successive grit, I would work further and further outwards to make a nice even sanding job. (See above).

I'd be curious to see what others experience is with this. 

I just finished my car-Washed, clayed and then did the paint repair. Compounded the whole car with Menzerna Intensive Polish and then used the Menzerna Final Polish with the white pad. Final touch was the Menzerna FMJ with the red pad. I really dig the FMJ. VERY easy to apply and buff off. It took me less than 30 minutes to do the whole car. A little really goes a long way. 

Tomorrow morning I start on the trim bits, wheels, then the interior. I guess this is the way I spend my 3 day weekends... 

I did try to take some photos, but, nothing really shows the process better than what is already documented. Maybe tomorrow morning it will show up better in the sunlight.

Johnny


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## brewe (Sep 9, 2006)

great tips guys, but i have a question. I have a quarter size chip on my front bumper. I tried paintpen, which is kind of a sharpie type pen. It came out like crap. can you repair a chip this big following this method? or do i have to have the ft fascia resprayed? I do have more scrapes.


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## lild (Sep 11, 2007)

Dude I Work In Body Shop And I'm Impressed. Just Don't Tell Everbody Our Tricks.


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## Darrenbmw (Jun 15, 2007)

Brian .. 

What an AWESOME post. You explained this better than the Complete Garage did when I took their seminar using Griot's products. I have the orbital and everything you've said is 100% correct. I have NOT had to fix a scratch yet (thank GOD), but using the polish, wax, clay etc is SOOOO easy and the orbital too. 

I use these products as well .. and again: What an AWESOME post..  

Question for you: I clayed on Saturday, and I realized with a hose running (I use warm water from the inside of the house. *soft water*) I could clay while the hose was going over the area keeping it well lubricated. Is this OK to do? As, most of the time I see posts on claying people say to use the Quick Detailing spray. 

Can you use water, like I did. I did not notice anything wrong, and it looked gorgeous when I got done waxing. What do you say? 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts ..


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## tdawg183 (Mar 20, 2006)

What touch up paint are you guys buying? If I have a bunch of rock chips and scrapes, would I be best off buying the paint pens or the paint & clear coat tubes? I figure the paint tubes would be best if we're to use little brushes/toothpicks.

Also, any worries over clear coats not being there after the wetsanding and polishing? Take a look at this pic, it's all over my roof. I'm completely open to having a professional take care of this but I'd like to try it myself first.


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## Jeffshaw1 (Jan 1, 2008)

This was excellent information...BUT if I bring the car to a local auto detailer would they be able to fill in the chips so they become less visible?


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## StingrayBoys (Feb 6, 2008)

Wow, great topic for car lovers! My two cents on a number of points raised (I'm a former detail shop owner and detailer)...

First, Griots has some fantastic applicators if you dont want to use the toothpick... part #50406. Work well when you use very little amounts of paint. They also have a nice tool for scraping the wax and crud out of the scratch before applying the paint (mine came with the applicators as a kit).

Second, I like to use a little bit of primer in the scratch. Many, many, many spot repairs come loose due to poor prep (cleaning) and lack of adhesion without primer. Any small quantity of automotive primer will do.

Third, practice on an inconspicuous spot first! Maybe your "significant other" has a car with a scratch or two that can be attacked without dire consequences... or else your winter whip.

Fourth, as mentioned earlier, Always start with the least aggressive approach for your compounds, pads, wetsand paper, etc. You can always get more aggressive when needed. More aggressive usually results in being too hard on the car's finish and that can cost you time, money, or both.

Fifth, when working on plastic with a machine - machines create heat and heat is not plastic's best friend. Keep it moving, don't stay in one spot, use your free hand to feel the surface in case it is getting warm. Paint will come off a hot plastic surface faster than you'll ever believe (especially with a pad moving at 1500-2000rpm)!

I hope that's useful to someone out there!


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## StingrayBoys (Feb 6, 2008)

Question for you: I clayed on Saturday, and I realized with a hose running (I use warm water from the inside of the house. *soft water*) I could clay while the hose was going over the area keeping it well lubricated. Is this OK to do? As, most of the time I see posts on claying people say to use the Quick Detailing spray.

Can you use water, like I did. I did not notice anything wrong, and it looked gorgeous when I got done waxing. What do you say?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts .. 



DarrenBMW - Using the free-flowing water is ok. However, I much prefer using a great big bucket of super sudsy water and a wash mitt. I have a bucket with a sediment tray so that heavy stuff (dirt) sinks and doesnt get caught in the mitt. The soap is a lubricant and is much more slippery than the water alone. That's why they always suggest a QD spray... it too is very slippery. However, the soapy water is MUCH cheaper than the QD spray. You can use your "soft" tap water in the bucket too, if you want. That's a good idea. As for warm vs cold water, I find the cold water is much more dense than the warm water and therefore more effective.

I hope that helps.


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## jetbill (Oct 13, 2007)

My first time using your method.

I tried a hole punch and pencil with eraser I took 1500 wet. Glue small sand paper "dot" onto pencil eraser to work on a scratch. 

Worked great until I took it one step too far! Now just a little larger than an eraser head i have worn down to primer. Now on my TIAG car i have a light spot by the gas tank lid.

Not quite sure what to do... tried to buff a bit and no luck. 

I have some touch up base and clear "globing" on that i will let settle for a few days before i work on it.

Be very careful, i should have used 2000 or 3000.:dunno:

:bawling:


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## truelies (Apr 15, 2006)

About the sander, are there any cheap one we can choose?

How about this?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=46329-67702-SV13YB&lpage=none


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## truelies (Apr 15, 2006)

I bought a bosch 5" Random Orbital sander. The speed is 7000-12000 rpm. How to put the foam pad on it? I didn't use a sander before. Also where to buy whose foam pads?


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## jesimmons (Jan 11, 2008)

I went with a slight mod to the process.

I used a paper hole punch to cut out small circles of 2000 grit 3M wet-sand paper. I then used some contact cement to glue the circles to new pencil erasers. This gives a nice smooth flat sanding surface on the end of the pencil.

I followed the surface prep steps before applying paint using the sanding pencil and cleaning afterwards with a cue-tip and alcohol.

I applied small amounts of base paint to the rock chip using the tip of a jeweler's screwdriver (Jeweler screwdrivers come in sets of 5 or 6 sizes and are perfect for applying precise amounts of paint into the nicks or scratches). I applied 3 or 4 coats of base (applied 10 to 15 minutes apart) to help fill in the rock chip depression.

After the base paint was dry (overnight), I used the sanding pencil (dipped in water of course) to carefuly smooth out the surface around the nick - removing the excess paint that was on the clear coat, but leaving the base paint in the nick.

Cleaned up using alcohol and cue-tip, then applied clear coat into the nick and barely into the surrounding clear coat. Once the nick was fully filled in with paint and clear coat and thoroughly dry, I followed up with a little more sanding and buffing with polish to smooth out the surface.

Finally, applied a good paint sealer.


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## cruisingdog (May 26, 2008)

Guest84 said:


> *This is what the surface looked like after sanding(Pic below). You may panic somewhat your first time doing this, but rest assured, high blood pressure after scratching up your clear coat is normal. We***8217;ll work this out with Machine Polish.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


=============================================
I have a question about this technique. I'm not sure if the OP is still on this site but I would appreciate a response from anyone in the know.

There was mention of not using clear coat. I assume that the scratch was filled in with paint up to the level of the clear coat and then polished. If so, isn't that why the 'micro hairline fracture' is visible. You basically have a clear lacquer touching a paint and hence a line will be visible ?

If I were to use clear coat after filling in the paint, how should I do this correctly ? Would I first have to 'etch' some of the over filled paint out and then put the clear coat on ?

Thanks for such a good description of this process. Very informative.


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## gtxragtop (Feb 25, 2008)

All well and good for the white and black cars. Now us poor bastards with metallic paint have the issue of attempting to get the metallics to properly disperse in the chip which so far seems impossible. Any suggestions? Yes, I continually shake the bottle to keep the paint/metallics mixed.


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## Totoland (Nov 30, 2006)

gtxragtop said:


> All well and good for the white and black cars. Now us poor bastards with metallic paint have the issue of attempting to get the metallics to properly disperse in the chip which so far seems impossible. Any suggestions? Yes, I continually shake the bottle to keep the paint/metallics mixed.


Metallics are terrible...I struggle with them every time. Especially the Silvers! I'm working on my airbrush techniques as that solves the problem. The Silver metallic atomizes out of the airbrush and puts the correct color match.

Toto


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## JT 550i SD (Apr 25, 2005)

*Who has used Doctor Color Chip process?*

This has come recommended by my local BMW carclub.

Already have a rock chip on my hood 

Comments, results, concerns?

Here is a link: http://drcolorchip.com/


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## gtxragtop (Feb 25, 2008)

Totoland said:


> Here's the link to the Snap On orbital
> 
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...9&group_ID=807&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
> 
> Totoland


Better have a massive air compressor to run this. Not your typical 1-2HP Sears model.


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## JD650 (Jul 7, 2008)

If you have a scratch that you can feel with your finger tip and where you can see the white, you can probably put your finger nail in it....how do you deal with it? I read above but am unsure what the best method will be? 

If you have scratches that you cant really feel by your fingertips, neither can you put your nail in them...but they are white (my car is black) ....wht is the best way to get rid of these? 

DOES a full fledged standard detailing job take care of any of the above? thanks in advance!


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## JD650 (Jul 7, 2008)

JT 550i SD said:


> This has come recommended by my local BMW carclub.
> 
> Already have a rock chip on my hood
> 
> ...


Does this really works as it claims?


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## JD650 (Jul 7, 2008)

paul e said:


> This is the generally recommended procedure for fixing deep scratches and chips. The main problem with it is that its anything but quick.
> 
> Ive found Ive been able to eliminate the most time consuming part of the process; the sanding. The idea is you need to knock down the touchup 'blob' youve created, by building up the touchup layer. Ive found there is a product called 'Langkfa' which a a chemical solvent. The idea is, after letting the touchup dry for just about a half hour, til its dry to the touch, you take the thin plastic card in the kit, wrap it tightly in a fine cotton fabric (not terry which will tend to take the touchup out of the chip), apply a few drops of the Langkfa solvent to the cotton wrapped card, and gently go back and forth over the touchup until the 'blob' is no longer a blob, and is level with the surrounding paint. No more or youll remove the paint from the chip. When thats done, just go over the area with a polish, and youre done. After youre finished, and the paint has cured, then just appy wax to the area. I find I can do chips and scratches with this method in just a few minutes longer than it takes to allow the touchup to dry. I do all my touchups now this way, and believe me, its every bit as effective as the old wet sanding technque for 'knocking down the blobs'!


hi Paul - so I want to use this product, I would have to buy touch up paint separately? or just buying the entire kit is sufficient? thanks!


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## BLKWD (Jul 19, 2008)

I just ordered the Langka kit too, I've got more chips on my hood, bumper and mirrors than u can shake a stick at! Will try and report back.


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## JD650 (Jul 7, 2008)

BLKWD said:


> I just ordered the Langka kit too, I've got more chips on my hood, bumper and mirrors than u can shake a stick at! Will try and report back.


Thanks, could you let me know how it wored out? That will be awesome. I got my car entirely detailed and the scratches even though are much diminished they are still visible.

Depending on how it works out for you I will try the dr.paintcolorchip.

Another Qn, did you have to but touch up paint separately?


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## jesimmons (Jan 11, 2008)

The original post is great. However, I've made some adaptations after doing a few chip repairs and have come up with my current approach that is a hybrid.

My "chip" kit (attached Photo) consists of:

1) 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Touch Up Base Coat Paint
3) Acetone
4) Langka Blob Eliminator
5) 00 size paintbrush (note how sharp the brush tip is)

My process:

1) Clean the chip spot with #1 (alcohol)
2) Use the paintbrush to apply small amounts of paint into the chip until the paint chip is filled and there is a small "bump" where the touch-up paint is raised above the surface. This can take as many as 8 to 10 applications, allowing each to dry thoroughly.
3) After each application of paint, clean paint brush with Acetone and let dry.
4) Use Blob Eliminator to remove the raised blob and smooth out the chip spot.
5) Polish or Buff the chip spot to blend it into surrounding paint.
6) Apply paint sealant after a day (to let the chip spot cure).

I found the paint brush at a Michael's (craft store) in the section that has artist brushes. Works much better at applying just the right amount of paint with excellent control. I had to do numerous layers of paint to fill in the deeper chips because the touch-up paint is very very thin. It helps to be patient.

One comment about the Langka kit... It comes with a small credit card sized piece of plastic and the directions instruct the user to wrap it with a piece of tightly woven cloth and use that to apply the blob eliminator. This works reasonably well, but I find that for certain types of chips this can remove more paint from the chip spot than desired. An alternate approach is to take a small piece of cardboard (like you'd find on the back of a pad of notepaper) and simply apply a little blob eliminator to the cardboard and lightly rub the chip spot. The cardboard is flat and has sufficient porosity to absorb the solvent in the Langka; and it does not rub the paint out of the chip spot.


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## macbookproaudio (Sep 14, 2008)

pics didnt show up...


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## pupster (Dec 31, 2007)

does anyone have pictures from the original post? it is not loading the pictures from post #1 in this thread...


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## bimmerfestjsl (Oct 2, 2008)

*Missing photos*

Hi, it seems the photoes from the original posts have been deleted and the user deleted  - trying to email or message fails. Does anyone have copies of the photos or a pdf of the posts that they can share?

Jack


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## Goldman Sachs (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm gonna fix a couple of my scratches as soon as I buy my flex when the warmer weather comes back!


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## BMW_Fanboy (Jan 8, 2009)

How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?

I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.

TIA!


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## pupster (Dec 31, 2007)

BMW_Fanboy said:


> How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?
> 
> I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.
> 
> TIA!


Bump


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## LeMansX5 (Sep 27, 2004)

BMW_Fanboy said:


> How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?
> 
> I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.
> 
> TIA!


 If you have too many chips than you should get the hood repainted. It wil be covered under insurance. I went thru same once.


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## bam240sx (May 7, 2009)

all i see are x's


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## cruisingdog (May 26, 2008)

jesimmons said:


> The original post is great. However, I've made some adaptations after doing a few chip repairs and have come up with my current approach that is a hybrid.
> 
> My "chip" kit (attached Photo) consists of:
> 
> ...


OK, so I used the Langka kit and have to say that I'm very disappointed. Basically no matter how much pressure you put on the paint rework, it lifts it all out. I've tried very gentle to extremely gentle and have let the paint set for days.

The method described above is basically what you would do if using a 2000 grit sand paper. I'm guessing that all you did with the Langka and credit card/cloth thing was essentially perform a 2000 grit surface removal and the Langka did nothing.

Langka IMO = $$ Ripoff. I'm going to go back to the 2000 grit process. It's cheaper and can be polished out just as well.


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## Hogan773 (Jul 7, 2009)

*Dr Colorchip*

I have also tried the Dr Colorchip and found similar results to the Langka - its very tough to get the paint removed just enough to stay flat without removing too much. Especially when you have light scratches that don't hold the paint well.

That said, the Dr Colorchip paint is nice and thin and dries within minutes, which is nice.

I am thinking that painting over a thin scuff or scratch, and then wetsanding to make it smooth, might be a better and cheaper option.

I'll keep trying the Dr Colorchip to see if I can improve my technique.


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## mitmik (Jul 16, 2009)

Hogan773 said:


> I have also tried the Dr Colorchip and found similar results to the Langka - its very tough to get the paint removed just enough to stay flat without removing too much. Especially when you have light scratches that don't hold the paint well.
> 
> That said, the Dr Colorchip paint is nice and thin and dries within minutes, which is nice.
> 
> ...


hey hogan can u update us after you improve your technique with some pictures? i need to get some scratches out too and am considering to try out this drcolorchip. thanks!


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