# 2012 335 Fault code: B7F655 and E12C1D



## HADM11 (Jan 7, 2022)

Picked up the car today after it had the radiator and intake duct replaced along with other things. Due to a collision with a deer. However check engine light came on and turned it off. When turning it back on it struggled to idle. After a moment it calmed down then I heard a loud “boiling water” like sound and it struggled on idling again and shut off. Any ideas? I’m a complete novice.I’m assuming possible coolant leak ? Any help Is appreciated!


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## ard (Jul 1, 2009)

Document everything- pictures, video, etc. Capture the details immediately.

Then take it back to the shop that did the work, provide a WRITTEN statement of the issues- tell them they need to fix it.

DO NOT forget to have a written work order. They may say "oh the old one covers it" but you should politely insist.

Was this insurance? 

If they refuse a new repair order, get the adjustor involved.


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## HADM11 (Jan 7, 2022)

ard said:


> Document everything- pictures, video, etc. Capture the details immediately.
> 
> Then take it back to the shop that did the work, provide a WRITTEN statement of the issues- tell them they need to fix it.
> 
> ...


yes through insurance, i was able to capture a video of the "boiling water" sound along with the irregular idling. taking it back tomorrow morning. im just not sure what those codes could be


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## ard (Jul 1, 2009)

Hmm... some hackery perhaps?

B7F655 Instrument panel: Outside temperature sensor Short circuit to B+ 
E12C1D "Invalid signal (run-on, terminal 30, fault-controlled, 0x3AC), transmitter JBE/FEM/BDC" 

Alternatively, call the adjustor and get permission to go to a BMW dealer.


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## ard (Jul 1, 2009)

These codes are NOT related to "boiling water"..these arent sensor codes, not temp codes, not water pump codes....

You are not driving it, correct?


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## HADM11 (Jan 7, 2022)

ard said:


> These codes are NOT related to "boiling water"..these arent sensor codes, not temp codes, not water pump codes....
> 
> You are not driving it, correct?


negative, parked it and will probably get it towed first thing in the morning. However i didnt check to see if there was any leaks


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## ard (Jul 1, 2009)

Good. Id loop the shop and the adjustor in sooner rather than later. You dont want to get stuck with a tow. Also, this is something weird and electrical. You dont want the shop covering up some error or mistake on their part, then says "Oh, seems like bad luck your JBE failed- not covered by insurance and it'll be $1700 out of your pocket".

Often times when you take it to a shop the insurnace recommends they offer a guarantee. Not really applicable here, but by using the 'chumminess' between shop and insurer, it can help. Insurer has a vested interest when a shop does wrong...and shop has a vested interest in maintaining their 'approved shop status'.

That first code? Just a total WAG: someone wire nutted the two wires that come out of the harness together. Importantly, on a proper repair there should NOT be a wire spice. Period. It should all use factory standard connectors, impossible to cross-connect. Even if a harness was damaged, you replace the harness! (In rare cases this may be impossible or financially not feasible- but you should clearly approve this shortcut.)

(To explain: two wires come from the instrument panel, one is a 'power supply' wire, the other is the input back to the panel. The sensor connects to these two wires. As the sensor is exposed to temperatures, it varies the amount of power from the one wire that gets sent back to the instument panel. If this is re-spliced, there will be 4 wires- tied 2 by 2. If someone messed up, they COULD tie the power supply directly back to the wire that goes to the panel.)

Lots of guesswork here on my part, but who knows- maybe it helps.

GL!


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