# 335d Leaky Boost Hose replacement / How to!



## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

Easiest way is to look down through the engine bay at the hose. If yours is defective and your vehicle has some miles on it there will be oil / grime everywhere on the red hose. As far as symptoms: sometimes sluggish response off throttle at low speeds, car doesn't feel "as fast" as it used too. All depends on just how badly it's leaking boost. The main thing is the sheer amount of fine oil mist that gets everywhere from that pipe. On my 335d it was blowing back to the passenger side strut mounted heat shield and leaving little specks of caked oil.


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## Frediesel (Apr 28, 2012)

I think the green seal (for the red hose) is on the passenger side and the black seal is on the driver's side. Both go into the grooves around the hose on the metal part then into the intercooler. The seals (if you choose to go with two vs. one seal) that go on the top part of the red hose go inside of the metal tip. I had a really hard time getting the red boost hose back into the intercooler. I ended up wrapping a strong strip of plastic (the kind that is used on boxes for shipping) around the lower end of the hose (on the metal part) and pulled down. I placed a jack stand underneath keeping the intercooler from being pushed down/away.


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

Man, Ive had my intercooler out twice now and never had too much of an issue re installing the pipe... are you sure your jubilee clips were all the way out?


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## Frediesel (Apr 28, 2012)

Yes, all of the the clips were off when I was trying to figure out what the issue was. I thought there was an issue with the new seal, but I had the same issue when I tried the old one. I'm just glad I was able to get it done. BTW, thanks for your DIY guide Dr Diesel. I printed all of the information when I tackled this job. If it weren't for this community I would not have tackled so many maintenance/repair jobs with confidence (oil change,fuel filter,boost hose, transmission fluid,etc.). I have absolutely no prior automotive mechanic experience, but I knew it was necessary to pick up some knowledge in order to keep my car. I know a lot of people who have traded their BMWs/Minis due to repair/maintenance costs.


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## sirbikes (Aug 17, 2012)

Checked mine when I got home from work and it's clean, no oil and not even that dirty. I currently have 92,000 mi on my X5. 

Still it's good to know for future reference since I'll be keeping the car and possibly doing some mods to it.


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## R2Row (Jul 3, 2015)

*Replace turbo??*

Dr. Diesel

My 09 335D is in the shop currently because i was under the impression that the turbo's boost hose (being as filthy with oil as yours) was leaking oil. So the shop called a bit ago and is stating that i would need to get a new turbo and is charging approx. $3400.00 for turbo and misc parts. The original reason I took it in was because the car would just shut off in the middle of the highway or at low speeds for no reason and would not give any codes, it would just go into limp mode (reduced power). In your opinion, do you think that the excess oil residue has something to do with the car powering off randomly. If not, what else could cause the car to shut off so often unexpectedly.

Thanks in advance.


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

I would absolutely tell them that you need a definitive interrogation of codes to surmise that the turbos are shot. I just moved to North Carolina and had a limp mode situation start on the highway in Florida and I found that my rxhaust back pressure sensor flex pipe had burst and vented hot exhaust into my vacuum accumulator box, melting it. The car smelled like exhaust inside as well. Since none of the pressure converters had vacuum, the car wouldn't generate any boost. This was logged as an error code for turbo under boost, egr performance error and one other code. The ses light and the engine malfunction indicator were on as well. It was amazing how little power the car had as well. 

Can you provide more context? If you have a high pressure oil leak that would warrant turbo replacement, but that wouldn't show up at just the boost pipe, you would have oil all over the passenger side of the engine bay, and I mean allll over. Does your car have any other symptoms? Have you hooked it up to a scan tool your self and watched data? I used my actron scanner to watch the data in real time and could see that the car had 100% bypassed the turbos via wastegate actuation and was generating zero boost.


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## R2Row (Jul 3, 2015)

*Turbo Boost hose*

Dr. Diesel

That sucks about the car breaking down on your road trip, I know its about an 8-9 hour drive.

I approached the mechanics about their intent on replacing the turbo and like you said there was insufficient evidence to warrant the replacement. He did say however that the seals were leaking at the boost hose and other places. I'm not a mechanic by any means but am not scared to tackle this issue. I ended up paying 200.00 for labor just to take off the boost hose and drain the coolant. When i originally took off the bottom cover skirt I did notice that there was a lot of oil residue on the passenger side of the underbelly, it was thick and caked on the skirt as well. 
Because they didn't take off the inter-cooler in the process of messing with the boost hose do you still recommend doing so?

(On the pictures you posted i didn't see that you ever drained any coolant.)

Thanks again for the info!


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

You should have no need to drain any coolant to remove the intercooler or do anything related to that boost hose. I don't know why they have had to replace coolant in your car. That's a sign that they may not know what they are doing... There is a coolant crossover down low on the fan shroud but it doesn't need to be opened to do any work down there, when I replaced my harmonic balancer and had to remove the fan shroud I still didn't need to crack open any coolant lines. I did when I replaced my primary thermostat, right at the water pump.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Dr. Diesel,

Many thanks for this post. I had missed it prior and my hose just failed at 92k miles. It almost felt like limp mode between 2 & 3rd gears, no get up and go, but eventually seemed to catch up. It threw an SES light but I didn't have my Garmin HD to read what code it threw. I had just been at the dealer a week prior so returned it.

The dealer advised me that the "Charge Air Pipe" which is really a hose, was broken and leaking plus they noticed a few other rubber vacuum hoses in a deteriorated state. None of which is covered under the extended warranty that I have with BMW.

The estimated cost was about $1,300 parts and labor, with the parts being approx. $400 for the charge pipe and misc. vacuum hoses. I told them to proceed but I wasn't happy about it.

But after seeing your post it is clear what has happened and what needs to be done. Unfortunately I'm not set up to do this work myself and I do not yet have trust in a local Indy.

Certainly hoses will deteriorate over time, especially a hose exposed to hot charge air and pressure. So from a mechanical failure (wear and tear) perspective I get it.

Thanks for the post again!:thumbup:


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## Nadir Point (Dec 6, 2013)

R2Row said:


> So the shop called a bit ago and is stating that i would need to get a new turbo and is charging approx. $3400.00 for turbo and misc parts.


I would venture to guess anyone not familiar with the M57 CCV system sees oil in the turbo and intercooler system and just assumes faulty turbo seals, when that is actually a normal condition for this engine.


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

That is absolutely true. The M57 just loves to spread its oil around!


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## montr (Oct 7, 2006)

Nadir Point said:


> I would venture to guess anyone not familiar with the M57 CCV system sees oil in the turbo and intercooler system and just assumes faulty turbo seals, when that is actually a normal condition for this engine.


Long time ago, I had a Volvo with a 5 cylinders turbo engine. At the bottom of the intercooler, there is a small hole (~1/16"). The purpose of the hole is to drain the intercooler of condensation and oil from the turbo.

I bought the car new. At first, I was surprised to see few drops of oil in the garage from a new car. I later found out that it is normal and I have to live with it. The small hole in the intercooler is by design.


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

Flyingman said:


> Dr. Diesel,
> 
> The dealer advised me that the "Charge Air Pipe" which is really a hose, was broken and leaking plus they noticed a few other rubber vacuum hoses in a deteriorated state. None of which is covered under the extended warranty that I have with BMW.
> 
> ...


Let me tell you those vacuum hoses are an all day event to replace, and you'll break stuff getting the old ones off. I just started a very expensive graduate program and thats the only reason I didn't consider giving the car to the dealer for the work. I would recommend to everyone to check out your exhaust backpressure tube and see if it looks frayed. That thing blew in my car at 80k miles and caused a serious world of hurt to all of the vacuum related items on that side of the motor.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

I suppose that justifies the labor in the $1,300 estimate.

Have you had any luck with Indy's in the area? You are shown as being in Fort Lauderdale.

SA just called me back to advise the hose is on order, I have a loaner so can wait for that. They also spoke with the shop foreman about the CBU and they advised that unless the car is showing any symptoms of problems, they wouldn't do the CBU clean up, but at 90+k miles can expect to find some.

We agreed to replace hoses, test drive, and if all is good we will hold off on the CBU.

I've got plans to do the EGR/DPF/DEF delete and would most likely get the CBU done all together at that time.

Now just looking for a local shop that can do this.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Just a follow up on this leaking charge air hose issue I had.

It wasn't the charge air hose going to the intercooler, it was the one leaving the cooler to the intake. It has one metal pipe with two rubber hoses on either end which are connected by hose clamps.

It appears now that this pipe/hose was damaged in a previous front end fender bender I had and the repair shop (Insurance recommended) failed to repair/replace it. The rubber hose was crimped on the pipe which was no longer round but had been somewhat flattened out.

So, not a BMW issue at all. Car is still good!:thumbup:

The repair is "guaranteed" so now I'm trying to get reimbursed for this hose replacement which cost some $1,225.


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## 2011335dtexas (Mar 2, 2014)

*turbo to boost hose jubilee clip?*

can you help me out understand how to remove the hose front the turbo. I dont understand the 120 degree. the lower hose to IC jubilee looks like you just have to pull on then to release. how do you remove the upper jubilee?


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

The upper clip has two indents about 120 degrees apart, so you just have to rotate the pipe to get a screwdriver under the second indent to fully retract it. When you try and pull it off and it seems "caught", it's because the clip hasn't been fully released.


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## rippjd (Apr 30, 2006)

Dr Diesel said:


> Let me tell you those vacuum hoses are an all day event to replace, and you'll break stuff getting the old ones off. I just started a very expensive graduate program and thats the only reason I didn't consider giving the car to the dealer for the work. I would recommend to everyone to check out your exhaust back pressure tube and see if it looks frayed. That thing blew in my car at 80k miles and caused a serious world of hurt to all of the vacuum related items on that side of the motor.


Are you referring to item #9 in the below image?
I assume you also replaced the 2 sealing rings, #11


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

Yep that is the hose right there. I ended up needing to buy that hose, the back pressure sensor, the vacuum canister / box and replacing all of those hoses with silicone lines. Thankfully it didn't destroy any of the pressure converters. An all day job for sure to do the vacuum distribution system. Had to remove engine cover, cowl, air box and pipe, creation of contorted pliers to reach into very narrow spaces, saying at least 10 prayers that I wasn't going to break a plastic fitting somewhere I couldn't reach. Finally broke out my dissection kit from cadaver lab and used scalpel and hemostats to get some of those lines off.


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## rippjd (Apr 30, 2006)

Thanks for the response!

I'm not sure the best spot to post these, but I happened to take some pictures of the M57 engine as configured for the US spec E70 X5 while it was on display at the BMW Museum near Spartenburg, SC. I find them helpful to reference where parts are supposed to go...

If you want uncompressed versions (~1.4 MB each), send me a PM with an email address, and I'll forward.


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## jonsonneborn (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks for the great write-up. Just replaced mine today using your write-up & it was spot-on! Cheers


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## Dr Diesel (May 6, 2012)

Glad to hear it helped!


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## Leal330D (May 16, 2017)

Dr. Diesel

I own a 330D '07. Last week I was running my car and it starts to acceletate by itself, and somehow it returns to normality, but with a different turbo pre-charge noise. The scaner didn't show me anything. Other day, I was runnig it again and it starts to accelerate by itself again, in that moment I took it into neutral position and it rev to readline and then it get turned off (by itself). Now I have the oil leak (in the intercooler, passenger's side) and the pre-charge noise.

The mechanic tolds me about the oil separator problem and we changed it, but the oil leak and the pre-charge noise, still there. I'm scared of the idea that I have to change piston rigs or change the turbo.

*aditional info: I change the turbo about 6k milles aprox.

Do yo have any idea about what is happening to my car?


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Leal330D said:


> Dr. Diesel
> 
> I own a 330D '07. Last week I was running my car and it starts to acceletate by itself, and somehow it returns to normality, but with a different turbo pre-charge noise. The scaner didn't show me anything. Other day, I was runnig it again and it starts to accelerate by itself again, in that moment I took it into neutral position and it rev to readline and then it get turned off (by itself). Now I have the oil leak (in the intercooler, passenger's side) and the pre-charge noise.
> 
> ...


Leal, any relation to Tito or Yolanda? We could be related!

Your car is a European version so doesn't have all the emission crap our US cars have. It sounds like you have a problem with the throttle control. I assume it is by wire like ours but I don't really know much about it.

It sounds like you might have overboosted the charge air pressure, maybe blew out the intercooler hose which is now leaking making that noise. That should be real easy to detect if so. What mechanic are you using?

Do you still have the choice of two (2) BMW dealers in Guatemala? I realize your car is now 10 years old but I would take it back to the dealer that was owned by Arnie Samper (?) as he used to have a really top notch chief mechanic. They serviced my BMW 1200C and Z-3i when I lived there.


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## Leal330D (May 16, 2017)

Sorry, I don't, but nice to meet you! 
Really you lived here?

I was taking it to a particular mechanic... bad idea, I know.
Yesterday I was checking under the car, because i had the same thinking, but there was no sign that the hose was blew off...

You're right and next week I'm taking it to bavaria motors to diagnosis...

Sorry about my english lol


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Leal330D said:


> Sorry, I don't, but nice to meet you!
> Really you lived here?
> 
> I was taking it to a particular mechanic... bad idea, I know.
> ...


Por su puesto, de 1993 a 2006. Mi abuela era de Jalapa, y yo crecio en Zacapa cuando era mas joven, mi papa tenia una finca de melon en la Fragua.

Yo vivio en carrt a El Salvador, km 18.5 por Jamaril.

Casi soy Chapin!:rofl:


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## mrscorpioNYC (Jul 2, 2017)

*335d boost issues*

Hello all,
This is my first post here. I love BMWs and have owned many gasoline versions but the first diesel (335d, 2011 with 113K miles) is giving me headache lately.

Chronically, I have issues getting NYS inspections passed as the Particulate filter would not reset. (I do a lot of city driving, but 'spirited' driving)!

I have read a lot of posts and enjoyed the discussions. I am hoping to get some help on my current issue:
The car runs, but has boost problems: If I drive under20 MPH, you wouldn't know i have a problem. I can't accelerate at all. The turbo boost kicks in very slowly once the car is around 25MPH and the RPM is nearly 3000 and the message like "engine malfunction, car running at reduced output, okay to drive but see a BMW dealer etc." The code reader (Innova) says I have turbo under-boost and two other codes with SES. The car is maintained regularly by the dealer and an excellent local guy. I changed the red boost hose (per Dr. Diesel's rec) from Forge motors. It was "loose" per my mechanic and very dirty. New one, though slightly shorter than the original, is seated well now. I drove the car afterwards a few times, car responds slightly better but no normal/turbo acceleration still and I could not drive over 65MPH today despite RPM hitting 4500 or so. MPG has been lower since the problem came on a few weeks ago. Visual inspection: small and large hoses look okay.

After the red boost hose change, now a new code says EGR is receiving too much pressure (or something like that).

I can provide specific information as per your inquiries. I would appreciate any help or directions. Should I consider going to the dealer and be charged a fortune?

Thank you very much.
Happy 4th of July!


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## Ehjax (Jun 24, 2017)

Can you still get this hose? The website says 404 not found


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## mrscorpioNYC (Jul 2, 2017)

I purchased the red boost hose from ECS Tuning. The red hose looks shorter but did fit in the location.

I have to thank BMWfanatics on various forums for helping me diagnose and fix the leak in my car. I used a low pressure air compressor and injected some air in the vacuum system while the car was off, all the lawn mowers and sprinklers off in my yard and those of the neighbors! Heard the hissing sound, sprayed some soapy water to confirm, replaced ONE hose, and the car was back in business in terms of turbo, speed etc.

Only issue I am having (for more than a few years now) is my Particulate Filter sensor would not reset and I keep getting P02EE type of a code with eventual SES. Several dealers tried but failed after replacing the oxygen sensor and other tidbits. I might have some carbon build up but have NO IDEA about it. My drive consists of short (5-8 miles/trip) trips in the metropolitan areas with occasional motorway driving. 

Any help in cleaning the DPF or other business dealing with this filter/sensor would be greatly appreciated. I need to keep all the DPF, EGR etc. in the system as New York State needs everything for annual inspections and I LOVE this car (a wolf in a sheep's clothing)!


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

Resurrecting an older thread... I have a 2010 X5 with the M57 in it. I***8217;ve had an oil leak for ages, messy but minimal. Turns out it***8217;s the o-rings on the boost pipe that links the two turbos. Has anyone replaced these? Mostly I***8217;m just curious about how difficult they are to get to. I figure I***8217;ll do it myself (after paying $20 each for the two o-rings from the dealer...).

I wonder if I should also do the charge air hose o-rings? I suspect they may have deteriorated anyway, and figure I***8217;ll have to remove the charge air hose to get to the boost pipe. Anyone have any insights on this?


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

Resurrecting an older thread... I have a 2010 X5 with the M57 in it. I’ve had an oil leak for ages, messy but minimal. Turns out it’s the o-rings on the boost pipe that links the two turbos. Has anyone replaced these? Mostly I’m just curious about how difficult they are to get to. I figure I’ll do it myself (after paying $20 each for the two o-rings from the dealer...).

I wonder if I should also do the charge air hose o-rings? I suspect they may have deteriorated anyway, and figure I’ll have to remove the charge air hose to get to the boost pipe. Anyone have any insights on this?


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## Nadir Point (Dec 6, 2013)

Did you see my post #31 in this thread? Also, if you proceed, please get proper t-bar clamps for the couplers. Worm-drive clamps should never be used with this type fitting.


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

Nadir Point said:


> Did you see my post #31 in this thread? Also, if you proceed, please get proper t-bar clamps for the couplers. Worm-drive clamps should never be used with this type fitting.


I did, yeah. I'm not really sure I see the connection. It's because of the oil in the system that it's blowing past a leaking o-ring and covering the right side of the engine and bay. I'm fine with the normal function of the M57 CCV system...just not with leaking o-rings.


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## Nadir Point (Dec 6, 2013)

Applesauce said:


> I did, yeah. I'm not really sure I see the connection.


I never said there was. But now that you mention it, oil blowing out on the side of the engine is never a good thing, so to speak.


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

Nadir Point said:


> I never said there was. But now that you mention it, oil blowing out on the side of the engine is never a good thing, so to speak.


Far as I can tell, it's the top o-ring in the boost pipe from little to big turbo. But I'll replace both, if I have the thing off.

It's #7 in this drawing. Really hoping I don't have to remove a turbo to get it off...


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## Nadir Point (Dec 6, 2013)

I have a hard time understanding how that goes bad. It's not a moving part.


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

Nadir Point said:


> I have a hard time understanding how that goes bad. It's not a moving part.


That***8217;s the story of these vehicles, no? The charge air hose isn***8217;t a moving part, and that***8217;s where this thread started...

In any case, I imagine an o-ring that butts up against a turbo on a diesel block is subject to some fairly high heat cycles.


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## Nadir Point (Dec 6, 2013)

It's a silicone part and should not fail for decades or hundreds of thousands of miles. Let us know what it looks like when you get it out....


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## Applesauce (Oct 4, 2016)

I have one of these hoses I bought for an E70...doesn’t fit the intercooler end. Anyone in Canada want to buy one of these, duty paid?


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## eric_dot_com (Aug 1, 2017)

Dr Diesel said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I, as many 335d owners, have experienced the oil soaked boost discharge pipe in the D for far too long! I tried to get the local dealership to replace the hose while they dropped out the front subframe assembly for the dreaded carbon cleaning however they decided it was not defective. The updated boost hose is ~ $380 from BMWNA which is exceedingly expensive for a 4 inch silicone hose with couplings. Alas, there is another source of salvation! The excellent staff at FORGE motorsports have sold a replacement discharge pipe for years over in europe. Since the market for our vehicles is very small in north america they had yet to sell the pipe over here. however, after a quick email, they express shipped one over for me to install and post here at the 'fest!
> 
> ...


Hey man, great post. Although I am curious if I upgrade my stock boost hose to the Forge ones like yours (nothing wrong with my stock there's no leaks or anything like that) will it go hand to hand with the Wagner IC upgrade ? I'm thinking of doing both just for the sake of possible future leaks and frankly for better upgrades on both parts. And if I do upgrade the stock IC to Wagner and the boost hose to Forge - is there anything else I should change ? I like to get yours and everyone else's take on that. 
Thanks

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## eric_dot_com (Aug 1, 2017)

Frediesel said:


> Yes, all of the the clips were off when I was trying to figure out what the issue was. I thought there was an issue with the new seal, but I had the same issue when I tried the old one. I'm just glad I was able to get it done. BTW, thanks for your DIY guide Dr Diesel. I printed all of the information when I tackled this job. If it weren't for this community I would not have tackled so many maintenance/repair jobs with confidence (oil change,fuel filter,boost hose, transmission fluid,etc.). I have absolutely no prior automotive mechanic experience, but I knew it was necessary to pick up some knowledge in order to keep my car. I know a lot of people who have traded their BMWs/Minis due to repair/maintenance costs.


I agree. I feel the same way with my 335d. I usually tackle the maintenance part that needs to be replaced before it actually fail. Some have told me don't change until anything is actually broke. The saying don't replace nothing is broken only goes to certain extent. I also have no prior automotive mechanic experience and I appreciate and love people that post stuff like this. Hey btw regards to maintenance, how often to change the fuel filter and transmission fluid and the coolant flush ? I have a feeling I have to tackle those things when I get a chance.

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app


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## eric_dot_com (Aug 1, 2017)

rippjd said:


> Thanks for the response!
> 
> I'm not sure the best spot to post these, but I happened to take some pictures of the M57 engine as configured for the US spec E70 X5 while it was on display at the BMW Museum near Spartenburg, SC. I find them helpful to reference where parts are supposed to go...
> 
> If you want uncompressed versions (~1.4 MB each), send me a PM with an email address, and I'll forward.


This is awesome. I can see the actual heart, kidney, and all the veins. Lol. I wonder if it's the same M57 engine as my 2011 335d. Can anyone confirm this. I appreciate you guys.

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app


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## eric_dot_com (Aug 1, 2017)

Dr Diesel said:


> That is absolutely true. The M57 just loves to spread its oil around!


Dr Diesel

Since you mentioned about spreading the oil around I noticed something around this particular part under the cover. It's round aluminum which looks like a filter to me but have no idea what it does. I notice that there's a slight smear or oil dust on it possibly a leak or some sort but I have no clue whatsoever. Maybe you or someone can shed a light to it. I took a couple pics of it. No SES light.
















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## Doug Huffman (Apr 25, 2015)

eric_dot_com said:


> Dr Diesel
> 
> Since you mentioned about spreading the oil around I noticed something around this particular part under the cover. It's round aluminum which looks like a filter to me but have no idea what it does. I notice that there's a slight smear or oil dust on it possibly a leak or some sort but I have no clue whatsoever. Maybe you or someone can shed a light to it. I took a couple pics of it. No SES light.


Vacuum pump.


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## Smokin_Joe (11 mo ago)

Doug Huffman said:


> Vacuum pump.


Tunemyeuro offers a replacement, separately, or part of some of their kits. I just replaced mine.


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## Smokin_Joe (11 mo ago)

I am having a problem trying to service the charge hoses on my 2009 x5 M57 and I can't seem to figure out how to remove the intercooler in order to do it..Any guidance available?








Couple of Easy Questions for you guys...me not so much...lol


I recently bought a 2009 X5 35d and am shopping around and collecting parts to delete the EGR(and cooler), delete the swirl valves and delete the def...in that order. I don't plan on deleting the dpf right away because removal involves cross members and raising engine etc. It will be fine for...




www.bimmerfest.com


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## Doug Huffman (Apr 25, 2015)

Smokin_Joe said:


> I am having a problem trying to service the charge hoses on my 2009 x5 M57 and I can't seem to figure out how to remove the intercooler in order to do it..Any guidance available?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Certainly, for a cost at BMW TIS or NewTIS. Maybe free at You Boob Tube.


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## Smokin_Joe (11 mo ago)

Doug Huffman said:


> Certainly, for a cost at BMW TIS or NewTIS. Maybe free at You Boob Tube.


Thanks didn't even know TIS existed. Have to see about grabbin Rheinhold...
Friend sent me a link for a video on a 335d which has the same little torx screws as my X5, and I thought they would be too small for to support the intercooler.
I will power wash under there before I remove it ...lots of nasty stuff on it.


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## xzethron (5 mo ago)

Thanks for all the pictures they are helpful!


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