# Best price for OSV



## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Ok so it looks like my 2000 740i needs to have the osv changed. Does anyone know of a good parts website I can get it from ?


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Board sponsor oembimmerparts is a reliable source. $78 plus $9 US shipping.

Link:

E38 7-SERIES INTAKE MANIFOLD COVER WITH OIL SEPARATOR VALVE CCV W/SEAL OEM
http://www.oembimmerparts.com/catalog/item/4550551/4616509.htm


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## vmijj91 (Jun 30, 2008)

My local dealer ended up having the best price when I used my BMWCCA discount.


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Have fun....make sure the kids aren't around when you do the work.

jake


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## jaugustavo (Mar 27, 2006)

Just replaced mine. It was kind of a pain. If I were you I would replace both the front and rear gaskets for the intake manifold covers as both mine were toast. It also makes it easier to reconnect the tube on the inside of the manifold that is bound to come off when you pull the osv off the back. one more thing, that spring loaded tube POS is, or at least was a pain to get off for me so i would say be careful. i'm not even sure what that thing does...one of these days i'll change the intake manifold gasket and find out. also, i would suggest replacing those torx bolts with reg 10mm bolts and washers...seriously.


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Thanks for the info,I'm doing it this weekend. Anything special about the 10mm bolts? I guess I can get them at any hardware store..
Did it resolve your problem ? Mine smokes at start up and when the dipstick is pulled i can hear the sucking sound.


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Before you start, read the write ups on www.e38.org. Gives you an idea of what the job entails so that you don't make any costly mistakes.

jake


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## jagass (Feb 8, 2009)

Why do it needs to be change?...


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Well did the job last night. It took about 1.5 hours. Not too hard to do.I did read the 38.org procedure,it definetly helped. As noted you are going to want to change the bolts. I was praying to the nuts and bolts god that none of them would strip.


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

jagass said:


> Why do it needs to be change?


The symptoms are described on the posts on www.e38.org about the "OSV."


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Good on you, did it correct the problem?

Now that the car is running correctly (I assume), you may see some signs that you are now running a bit richer...just be aware that you may begin seeing some idle problems, until your fuel adaptation values settle down.

jake


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

So far so good. I think you are right about running a little rich. Gets a little black smoke at start up.. I just picked this car up a few weeks ago. Body is perfect but it appears the previous owner was not the stickler I am for maintenance. The air filter was teh dirtiest I ever seen. SO I guess a good tune up is next.
Has anyone ever changed their own spark plugs ? Looks like I might need to put it on a lift to do.


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

No need for a lift. Just put an old blanket over the fenders so you don't scratch them, take the acoustic cover off the engine. Have a computer with www.e38.org set in and go to work. The trickiest part may be getting the coils off, but even that is pretty straight forward. I suggest that you use a magnetic nut driver so as to not lose the little nuts, but I don't know if you can get one in metric sizes. If you had to magnetize a tool, take a length of wire, strip the ends, wrap the wire several times around the tool, then touch one end of the wire to the positive post and the other to the negative post of a battery and voila, magnetized tool. (You are inducing a current through a coil, the more wraps = the greater the magnetization).

Some suggest numbering your coils, I think it is a good idea. Take a picture of the numbering system before you start in case you forget. Dry the spark plug wells of all oil before you start. Use antiseize compound on the new spark plug threads, and torque to correct specs (look 'em up). Check plug gaps as well.

jake


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Fuel adaptation values may settle down pretty quickly but take it out on the road to be sure. Run it about 50 miles and check to see if you get the dark smoke. If you feel a shake in the seat of your pants, you may start shopping for a new (not BMW....use Range Rover) MAF.

jake


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Well it lasted a few days with no smoke. Now it is blowing the smoke at startup again. Blue smoke, just for about 3 seconds then goes away.Car runs like a top other then the smoke. Where else could the oil be coming from that is getting into the intake ?


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Valve guides, perhaps. 

Remember, all cars will run a bit rich at startup so it is critical to determine accurately the color of smoke. Since you list USA only as a location, one cannot tell if your weather is still on the cold side or not. Blue smoke could be oil or also condensate mixed with oil. My old e30 used to put out vapor on cold days, well into May until I moved it out to Las Vegas. I'd let it run its course for a week or so and see if there is any increase/decrease in the meantime.

jake


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Ya know I'm thinking when i replaced the OSV the tube that connects in the center of it, I belive it carries the vapors. It came off from where it was connected in the front. I wonder if I have it back on the fitting it went to on the front.I found some diagrams and now am not so sure. i guess that could be causing this.
It;s not cold where i am..50.60s
I'm thinking I'm going to pull the osv and double check that tube. I also understand the ends of it can crack leading to leaking..
Thanks for the help


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## WILLETTS (Mar 31, 2009)

Actually it was the vent tube, shown here. Item 10..http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GF83&mospid=47528&btnr=11_1537&hg=11&fg=40
Where does the front of it connect ? I may not have it on the fitting correctly


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## crewdog843 (Mar 15, 2006)

Well, now that you have done it once, it should be a lot easier the second time.

jake


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