# I got hosed now i need to paint my car



## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but that’s a different topic.

When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didn’t look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint. 

I am feeling so stupid and mad. 
I live in Hanover Maryland can anyone recommend a paint shop that is decent price.

If anyone is looking at a new car please look at the paint closely not just the engine and mechanics. Learn from my mistake.
:dunno:


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## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

The roof is the worst part and it is actually turing kind of a off white thats the only way i can explain it. Here is a thought how about vinyl wrap and what color will look good. Please give me some sugestions


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

If who ever waxed the car before you got it, used a filler product. In the short order you could do the same to cover up the scratches.


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## ProRail (May 31, 2006)

sunny 2005 bmw said:


> So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but that's a different topic.
> 
> When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didn't look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint.
> 
> ...


Why shouldn't the tranny last? Mine has lasted since 1999.


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## mikenap (Jun 13, 2011)

Post some pics if you can. Your issues may be fixable by a competent detailer, and then again they may not. At least let us see what you're working with so we can better help you.


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## BigPat3472 (Jul 16, 2011)

Pics plz, the dealer probably glazed and waxed it.. Ill send you a pm on a site you can check out the guys there should be able to point you in the best direction 

Sent from my DROIDX using Bimmer


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

dboy11 said:


> If who ever waxed the car before you got it, used a filler product. In the short order you could do the same to cover up the scratches.


^^^ +1

OP, the swirls were already there. When you clayed it, you exposed the swirls. You can try to re-fill them with glaze or waxes, or you could have them removed by a detailer.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

sunny 2005 bmw said:


> So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i.


Try this guy. He is in Lancaster, PA, which I don't think can be too far from you? This here is an extremely oxidized '86 MB black. It looks to be three steps of decontamination, and _five_ polishing steps.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-de...lishing-barry-theal-presidential-details.html

Now, while the above is black, at least in recent years MB is known to have a very tough clear. I'm not sure how their black rates. However, BMW black is not only the softest BMW paint made, according to some, it might be the softest paint, period.

Next time you go visit detailers, ask them to give you some paint thickness readings where the damage is. Jot them down, and also ask which paint meter he's using. If none of the three you visited had a paint meter, you can likely find a more advanced/knowledgable detailer.

I wish you luck.

edit: Hm, I guess he's 88.2 miles away (I see Hanover now), that is a long drive I guess, but maybe worth it? . . . Toughie . . .


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Ilovemycar said:


> Try this guy. He is in Lancaster, PA, which I don't think can be too far from you? This here is an extremely oxidized '86 MB black. It looks to be three steps of decontamination, and _five_ polishing steps.
> 
> http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-de...lishing-barry-theal-presidential-details.html
> 
> ...


The paint on that MB you've linked is not clear coated paint. That's the reason he was able to get off the oxidation with polishing/ compounding


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

sunny 2005 bmw said:


> So I bought my car about 2 months ago black sapphire 05 545i. I love the car so far I have put about a $1000 in to it for various things. I am also hoping the trany lasts but that's a different topic.
> 
> When I bought my car it had some scratches on the hood roof and trunk the sides are clear as day. The dealer I bought it form was a little dealer not a bow dealer. They had covered the scratches up with wax and didn't look too bad. I washed and clay bared my car and now it looks like crap the clear coat is so scratched up that I took it to 3 different detailing shops and they said I have to repaint.
> 
> ...


Question?, I should have asked, can you feel any of these scratches with your finger nail?

One thing about using filler products they are effective on minor marry, but on deeper scratches that you can feel with your finger nails they are not, It would be nice to post some pics of the paint and its issues. A good detailer can work wonders on paint, and save you a ton of cash on a repaint


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## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

Here is the video of scratches. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRii8i6zUc4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
A

I used a filler they get better but gone in2 weeks and the scratches are back. They are not finder nail deep but too many per square inch. Let me know what you guys think after looking at the video.


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

That looks pretty bad, but not impossible to fix. You have three options: buy a dual action polisher and polish the paint yourself, hire a professional detailer, or live with them. It seems like option 3 is not really an option for you, so I'll give you some pro's and con's for the first two choices.

Option A: You do it yourself - A PCXP buffer will cost you about $130. A good polish combo like Meguiar's M105 Compound and M205 fine polish will set you back about $60. At least 2 cutting pads and 2 polishing pads will cost about $30-40. You would need at least 4 good quality microfiber towels for removing the compound and polish, 1 for removing wax or sealer and 2 for drying. That could cost you about $30-40 bones. Good waxes and sealants start at $20 and up. Your minimum costs so far are about $300 dollars.

This option is a lot of work, but you'll have all the tools you'll need to buff it again and again whenever it needs it.


Option B: You pay a professional - Most good professionals cost anywhere between $300 and up. If you're lucky, you may be able to find someone cheaper, but you run the risk of hiring an incompetent detailer and making things worse (like burning the paint with a rotary).

This option, assuming you find a good detailer, will most likely produce the best results, but when, and I do mean when, you put swirls back into your paint, you'll need to take it to the detailer to have the swirls removed again.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Based on what I'm seeing I would find a good detailer, that has experience with a rotary buffer and wet sanding ( its going to take that) I've worked on cars much like this and pulled off some amazing finishes. What I'm seeing is surface related marring, that can be cut and leveled. This is a fairly new car, the clear unless its just be abused to death can be restored,


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## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

POof540i said:


> That looks pretty bad, but not impossible to fix. You have three options: buy a dual action polisher and polish the paint yourself, hire a professional detailer, or live with them. It seems like option 3 is not really an option for you, so I'll give you some pro's and con's for the first two choices.
> 
> Option A: You do it yourself - A PCXP buffer will cost you about $130. A good polish combo like Meguiar's M105 Compound and M205 fine polish will set you back about $60. At least 2 cutting pads and 2 polishing pads will cost about $30-40. You would need at least 4 good quality microfiber towels for removing the compound and polish, 1 for removing wax or sealer and 2 for drying. That could cost you about $30-40 bones. Good waxes and sealants start at $20 and up. Your minimum costs so far are about $300 dollars.
> 
> ...


Thank you a lot of good info . I am not sure what I am going to do right now but what do you guys think about vinyl wrap. That is cheaper than paint and will last 2-4 years. any thoughts


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

dboy11 said:


> The paint on that MB you've linked is not clear coated paint. That's the reason he was able to get off the oxidation with polishing/ compounding


Ah, it's a single stage, eh? (OP forgive my need to pick his brain.) How did you know what it is (whatever it is)? Do you know when clearcoats started to become commonplace? (Hm, google is telling me it varies with brand, and even then there's confusion.) I was particularly curious about my friend's mom's car, it's been a while, but I believe it was a black E36 with what I thought at the time had clearcoat failure that I could not help out with. It isn't a single stage, possibly with oxidation only, could it be?

Can you describe the idea of using a glaze on single stage? Does it really "moisturize" or anything like that?



sunny 2005 bmw said:


> Thank you a lot of good info . I am not sure what I am going to do right now but what do you guys think about vinyl wrap. That is cheaper than paint and will last 2-4 years. any thoughts


I would have originally voted for POof540i's Option A, until I see that dboy thinks wetsanding is required. POof540i seems to be familiar with the necessary cost breakdown, but FWIW I think you can get good waxes and sealants at below $20 (that's coming from someone with a $70 wax on his car right now). Also, watch out for sales. Amazon had a recent sale on the Griot's RO for $80 recently, and I think it's supposed to be stronger than the PC. There are sales here and elsewhere, look out for promotions/coupons, free shipping, etc.

The vinyl wrap is an idea that never occurred to me. However, if you're going to have the paint corrected on both the hood and trunk, might as well hit the roof too. Yeah, I don't know how much a good wrap costs, but I'd put this money towards a top detailer to make it all brand new again. It'll be worth it, as even the resale value will be increased. Keep us posted . . .


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## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442&page=10

this threat above is the whole reason I started thinking about vinyl wrap. Check it out


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

sunny 2005 bmw said:


> http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376442&page=10
> 
> this threat above is the whole reason I started thinking about vinyl wrap. Check it out


Ohhh. I was thinking like a CF style wrap just for the roof like I've seen Don Nguyen post here at BF.

Personally, I hate the total vinyl wrap, ew. If you like it, go for it I guess. Personally, I'd rather have corrected paint.


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## sunny 2005 bmw (May 31, 2011)

Ilovemycar said:


> Ohhh. I was thinking like a CF style wrap just for the roof like I've seen Don Ngyuen post here at BF.
> 
> Personally, I hate the total vinyl wrap, ew. If you like it, go for it I guess. Personally, I'd rather have corrected paint.


Actually I was just wrapping the the roof trunk and Hood. I am not sure where to buy it from or what color.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

sunny 2005 bmw said:


> Actually I was just wrapping the the roof trunk and Hood. I am not sure where to buy it from or what color.


Sorry I spelled his name incorrectly. Make sure the correct type of vinyl is used, or else when you remove it- it could look like this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6174256&postcount=155

Some very random search results of his stuff to maybe get you ideas.

http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462770
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489825
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6148758


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Ilovemycar said:


> Ah, it's a single stage, eh? (OP forgive my need to pick his brain.) How did you know what it is (whatever it is)? Do you know when clearcoats started to become commonplace? (Hm, google is telling me it varies with brand, and even then there's confusion.) I was particularly curious about my friend's mom's car, it's been a while, but I believe it was a black E36 with what I thought at the time had clearcoat failure that I could not help out with. It isn't a single stage, possibly with oxidation only, could it be?
> 
> Can you describe the idea of using a glaze on single stage? Does it really "moisturize" or anything like that?


I'm not sure what the paint was but Imron was very popular as a replacement to lacquer based paints in the 80's Reason I know this I was detailing in the 80's and started driving a BMW in 1979 it was Imron paint.

A glaze would work very well on SS paints, they work even better on clear coats. Glazes are for two reasons, one as a filler of minor marring and they add lots of shine but no protection. Its why they are popular on show cars


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