# Looking to Buy a BMW E38 7-Series - Need Advice



## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

Hello Everyone:

I am a newbie to this forum. I am looking to buy a E38 BMW 7-Series (I love that body style!) and most I find are over 100,000 miles. The number doesn't bother me, but I just would like to know what to expect in terms of maintenance and repairs. Also, should I specifically consider or avoid certain models or years. Any other information you can provide would be very helpful. This will be my first BMW.

Thanks in advance,
Mike


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Try searching for common problems or model year differences.

LINK: Common Problems

Also take a look at www.e38.org to see what kinds of things people fix "DIY" and compare your skills, tools, work space, etc. with what you see. You can save alot of money by doing some work yourself.

Watch for cooling system problems (could be as frequent as every 50-60K miles), suspension parts needing replacement in the 80-120K mile range, an expensive automatic transmission fluid service ideal around 80K miles.

Newest is better. 01 has some things over 00, 00 had some standard features over 99. 98 and older had some different body style details. 95 had the Nikasil block concern.

Many say the best of the best is the 01 short sport. Non iL with the true factory sport package. Decide if the sport package is more important than the 5.5" longer wheelbase in the iL. Figure out how new a car you can afford.

And be ready for some high maintenance costs...


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## jgriffith007 (Mar 6, 2007)

Check classifieds, I have an 01 with 116k on it for $11,500 firm. black on black, wide nav, sport wheels, etc....


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

M.Wong said:


> Try searching for common problems or model year differences.
> 
> LINK: Common Problems
> 
> ...


Are all maintenance costs high including things like oil changes & tire rotations? Are they every 3 months/3,000 miles like a Chevy or Ford? Would costs be cheaper if I went with a 5-Series of similar age? I prefer the 7 but would go with a 5. I am not really interested in a 3. Thanks so much for your help! :thumbup:


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Tire rotations are not possible if you have staggared (sport) wheels that have larger rears. Non-sport rotations can be done at any decent tire shop. I do my own synthetic oil changes ($45 in parts) every 5000 to 7500, though some people go as long as 10,000 or 15,000. Yes, synthetic oil and BMW filters are a little more expensive. I wouldn't trust a minute-lube kinda place for oil changes on my vehicles, and certainly not my BMWs. I am gonna guess the dealer would charge $80 to $120 for an oil change.

An independent BMW mechanic is probably a little cheaper than a dealer. Find a quality one and you will be in better shape.

Things like suspension and engine work are going to be more expensive than many cars out there. I'd buy an I-6 (like the E39 5er or a 3er) over a V8 540i or 7er if maintenance costs are a major concern.


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

M.Wong said:


> Tire rotations are not possible if you have staggared (sport) wheels that have larger rears. Non-sport rotations can be done at any decent tire shop. I do my own synthetic oil changes ($45 in parts) every 5000 to 7500, though some people go as long as 10,000 or 15,000. Yes, synthetic oil and BMW filters are a little more expensive. I wouldn't trust a minute-lube kinda place for oil changes on my vehicles, and certainly not my BMWs. I am gonna guess the dealer would charge $80 to $120 for an oil change.
> 
> An independent BMW mechanic is probably a little cheaper than a dealer. Find a quality one and you will be in better shape.
> 
> Things like suspension and engine work are going to be more expensive than many cars out there. I'd buy an I-6 (like the E39 5er or a 3er) over a V8 540i or 7er if maintenance costs are a major concern.


Thank you so much for your advice, I really appreciate it!


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

M.Wong said:


> I'd buy an I-6 (like the E39 5er or a 3er) over a V8 540i or 7er if maintenance costs are a major concern.


I should say I'd actually buy a Civic or a Focus if repair costs were a major concern...

Remember, these cars were upwards of $70K when new. Used ones may seem affordable now, but they are not cheap to maintain.


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

M.Wong said:


> I should say I'd actually buy a Civic or a Focus if repair costs were a major concern...
> 
> Remember, these cars were upwards of $70K when new. Used ones may seem affordable now, but they are not cheap to maintain.


Its not a major concern, I just want to be aware of what I am getting into. I accept that its going to be a lot more than a cheap compact but if it is much cheaper to go with a 528i than a 740i then that gives me something to think about. I am tired of boring cars and I want something exciting even if it costs.


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

I want to spend around $10,000 to $11,000 on the car and keep yearly repair costs under $1,500 a year. I drive about 9,000 miles a year. I only live 1 mile away from work.


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

I'm guessing $1500 per year is going to be tough.


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## srein1 (Dec 14, 2007)

Here is what to expect: The window regulators WILL go bad - its just a matter of time - 350 to 500 per window at the dealers but you can do it yourself for about $100 (rebuilt regulator) or $240 for new. AND its easy (after the first one that is.) 
The radiator will go bad -- $500 to $600 at the dealers but also an easy replacement DIY -- recommend the aftermarket Al radiator instead of the plastic BMW one.
The DTC control module (antilock brake system) will likely go bad -- rebuilt it will be $200 to $300 -- the dealer wanted to charge me $4000 to fix mine!!! and it is just a bolt on bolt off job of 20 min if you can rebuild your module. If yours can't be rebuilt buy a used one (many used parts dealers) for about $300 and have the BMW dealer recode it to your car for about $150. See my posts about the DTC for my saga with this.
An e38 EATS brakes - mine were $1200 at the dealers for all 4 before I wised up and found how easy they were to replace ( but you have to have the right tools or rent them).
The front end WILL need suspension work. You can do most of it yourself especially the ball joints, control arms and tie rods. 
If the transmission goes bad on an older 7 -- give up and sell the good parts on eBay. It is just way too expensive to fix the transmission on a 740 with over 110K -- the risk/benefit ratio is just way to risky that something else bad will go wrong after an expensive trans rebuild. 
If this does not keep you from buying a 7, then you are one of us! Welcome to those crazy folks who enjoy the best riding/driving car on the planet. Then you have to ask yourself "Is all this expense and aggrevation worth it?" Some days yes - and that makes all the difference. As a wise man posted on this blog long ago once said "I love my girlfriend and my 740i BMW, its just that my BMW rides better."


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

srein1 said:


> Here is what to expect: The window regulators WILL go bad - its just a matter of time - 350 to 500 per window at the dealers but you can do it yourself for about $100 (rebuilt regulator) or $240 for new. AND its easy (after the first one that is.)
> The radiator will go bad -- $500 to $600 at the dealers but also an easy replacement DIY -- recommend the aftermarket Al radiator instead of the plastic BMW one.
> The DTC control module (antilock brake system) will likely go bad -- rebuilt it will be $200 to $300 -- the dealer wanted to charge me $4000 to fix mine!!! and it is just a bolt on bolt off job of 20 min if you can rebuild your module. If yours can't be rebuilt buy a used one (many used parts dealers) for about $300 and have the BMW dealer recode it to your car for about $150. See my posts about the DTC for my saga with this.
> An e38 EATS brakes - mine were $1200 at the dealers for all 4 before I wised up and found how easy they were to replace ( but you have to have the right tools or rent them).
> ...


None of that sounds to bad except for the tranny. Does it give any sign that is going to fail before it does? What is the highest mileage I should consider on an E38?


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## tigerbait (Oct 8, 2007)

As much as I enjoy my 2001 740i it amazes me that the germans haven't figured
out how to stop valve covers from leaking or bother to improve the cooling system
on an aluminun engine that does not like heat. If you find a 7 with 80000 or so miles 
on it with the original water pump and radiator change them both. Buy a shop manual
and a diagnostic code reader. Things like O2 sensors are simple to change and
will save you a bundle doing it yourself. Always have a high speed balance done
on new tires. And lastly, join AAA.


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## rdorman (Sep 4, 2008)

I had my tranmission completely rebuilt for just over $2100 parts and labor. Not bad when you consider the cost on other cars. But, finding someone that knows them and can get the parts at that price can be a real trick.


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

As long as the repair bills/oil changes/etc come to a total of $3,000 or less a year that's fine with me. I spend that on my Cobalt every year (not including 3 vandalism incidents over the past year, that was an additional $1,500). I am planning on paying cash for the car, so $3,000 a year would keep me saving at the same rate. I was just hoping I could save a little more, but the E38 has been my dream car since I was 13, so its worth the extra greenbacks to me. And I better get one soon instead of waiting another 5 years or there won't be many left.

Thanks to everyone for posting your advice! If anyone else has any more information, I'd be more than happy to read it.


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## rdorman (Sep 4, 2008)

The 100k service is expensive so keep that in mind when buying. If you DIY skills, much can be done yourself.


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

rdorman said:


> The 100k service is expensive so keep that in mind when buying. If you DIY skills, much can be done yourself.


How much would you say it is? I am not really in the position to do it myself. I live in an apartment, don't have any tools, and the parking situation isn't conducive for working on a car. Thanks.


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## rdorman (Sep 4, 2008)

Just a guess here but I would say about $2500+ at a dealer. Hopefully some one who has done the 100k service will chime in. Find an indy shop in your area and call and ask: http://www.bimrsonline.org/2008MapPage.html

At 100k, you are looking at plugs/boots (and most likely valve cover gaskets) all four O2 sensors (seems to me these two alone cost about $2000 at the dealer, P&L) plus and inspection 1. Depending on the maintenence history... you are probably also looking at coolant, water pump (and perhaps fan clutch) and brake fluid. I would also drain, but not flush, the transmission fluid (a hotly contested debate) and change the filter and rear diff fluid. Also, the charcoal canister is supposed to be replaced (although some don't) at 100k intervals and I think the canister alone is north of $500 at the dealer. IF you took your car to the dealer and had all of this done, it would probably be pushing $4000.

There are several good sources of OEM parts at much better prices then BMW will charge you.

Don't forget if you get a sport... tire are summer only and don't work in the winter, have a shorter life span, require a 100+ load rating, Z rated and will run you $1000 easily. Of course there are cheaper ways to go but your options are more limited then on most cars.

What ever you do... check all maintenence records, verify that the trouble areas have been taken care of (such as mid, radiator, etc) and have a qualified shop do a pre-purchase inspection.

The purchase price of these cars is not a problem at all, it is taking care of them. But damn, what a car! Here is my 2000 imola red sport:


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## jbondbmw (Aug 24, 2008)

Thanks for the info. That is a very nice car your have there by the way. I love the Imola Red. I think I'll be looking for a 97 - 01 740iL non-sport with preferably a tan interior and a green, blue, or black exterior. By the way, can I take the VIN number to a BMW dealer and they can tell me what service has been done at BMW centers?


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## rdorman (Sep 4, 2008)

Seems to me some dealers will and some dealers won't. I bought my car at a dealer and they printed off all the service history for me. Oh and FYI, I put over $3000 in my car in the first few months of ownership. And I will be putting about $2000 more into it in a few months (100k service). I alwys go through a used car top to bottom when I first get it so that is not that unusual for me. I put about $2000 in my last Infiniti in the first year of ownership... mostly preventative and reconditioning sort of things. The pay off is that I still have the Infiniti over five years later and it is running strong with north of 185k miles. My daughter now drives it.


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## a1artem (Jun 10, 2008)

hey guys i have 2001 740i i've just read your posts about 100k service and i got a question :i've heard that transmission fluid on bmw's is not supposed to be changed because its lifetime fluid but you advise to change it when you hit 100k and over i really dont want to have problems with transmission in future ,i already spent about 6k $ on some replcements like coolant suspension etc!
so should i change the tranny oil or im gonna spoil the perfomance of tranny if i change it?


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## rdorman (Sep 4, 2008)

a1artem said:


> hey guys i have 2001 740i i've just read your posts about 100k service and i got a question :i've heard that transmission fluid on bmw's is not supposed to be changed because its lifetime fluid but you advise to change it when you hit 100k and over i really dont want to have problems with transmission in future ,i already spent about 6k $ on some replcements like coolant suspension etc!
> so should i change the tranny oil or im gonna spoil the perfomance of tranny if i change it?


I intend to drain and change the filter. Not a flush. Every 50k or two years.


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