# What's The Best BMW Wax Kit to Make Your Car Shine?



## southcoastguy (Jan 3, 2017)

I have detailed cars as a hobby for the past 20 years. It doesn't matter what wax you use if your process is right. First, your car needs to be washed. I start with water, then a foam cannon and rinse, and finally a hand wash. Then I clay the surface to remove contaminants. Finally, I may use a decontaminant spray (basically IPA). I may use my dual-action buffer to remove scratches. For the paint surface now, I use a spray-on ceramic finish (Hydro2). Now i am done. Touchups are done with a spray called AMP.


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## Z4530i (Feb 22, 2009)

TurtleWax “Hybrid Solutions”, spray. Follow the directions.
Maintains deep shine for over a year!
Don’t take my word, check out YouTube test videos.
Here’s one:


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## MartzMimic (Apr 12, 2011)

I’ve been using the tried-and-true Powerlock/Collinite combo with a topper (Beadmaker or Seal ‘n Shine), but I recently tried Turtle Wax’s 75th Birthday Ceramic + Graphene paste wax, and I absolutely love it. Great gloss, and I’ve not seen anything make such small, tight beads.


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## BMR222 (Apr 29, 2021)

Evan Williams said:


> Lead photo credit PrimaStockPhoto / Shutterstock
> 
> To ensure that your BMW is performing at its best, you likely run the best fuels and lubricants that you can find. If you want your Bimmer to look as good as it performs, you likely want to detail it with the best products as well. Let’s face it. After spending a good amount of time getting off all that road grime, many of us want to bring back that sexy shine and luster that caught our eyes when we bought our favorite rides.
> 
> Professional detailers break out the buffing wheel and clay bar to restore that showroom look, but at the cost of removing layers of your clearcoat and paint. This is ok to do occasionally, but in the meantime, you break out the microfiber towels and wax to give your car the next best thing. This is what we want to know. What is your go-to detailing wax? Have you gone through different brands to find one that works better than others? We want you hear what you use to bring out the best shine on your Bimmer, so drop a comment below!


Chemical Guys make awesome products! Check em out


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## M_Bimmer (Dec 14, 2019)

Once paint has been "corrected", it shouldn't need to be done for years IF you maintain your exterior on a regular basis. The key is to keep contaminates from embedding into the paint. I've not had to paint correct but once on my 2014, done in 2016.

I touch up areas with 3M 06068 polish to take out light scratches, but I only do this every other year.

With Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, and Torque once a month after a wash, my car remains a mirror shine even after Costco drive-thru car washes every other week...and sometimes every week.

Any product that dries, and is buffed off, creates scratches....

1st picture is trunk with reflection of brick = optical shine....
2nd picture is hood with reflection of "junk" = optical shine....

Even if my car is dirty, it is still shiny....


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## excal4347 (Dec 5, 2017)

Which model Torque are you using I want a relible buffer . Thank You


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## M_Bimmer (Dec 14, 2019)

excal4347 said:


> Which model Torque are you using I want a relible buffer . Thank You


A random orbiter buffer must have variable speed adjustment, else it shouldn't be considered....there are a lot of choices, but remember that YOU the user is the key to great results....maybe 10% depends on the "brand"....AND constantly cleaning the pad prior to adding product to the pad using an item like this........I use a Porter Cable because it's the unit used during Chemical Guys training class...(for paint correction, I use all Chemical Guys products)

The Torque I referred to in my post is Torque Detail. For best results, I use a slightly saturated microfiber towel of the Torque product (I do not spray it on the vehicle), and immediately followed up with a dry microfiber, doing each panel in this manner, and do not allow the liquid to dry. My first time, I did the car twice...but for the last 4 years, only need to do it once every 6 months or so...


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## Z4530i (Feb 22, 2009)

M_Bimmer said:


> Once paint has been "corrected", it shouldn't need to be done for years IF you maintain your exterior on a regular basis. The key is to keep contaminates from embedding into the paint. I've not had to paint correct but once on my 2014, done in 2016.
> 
> I touch up areas with 3M 06068 polish to take out light scratches, but I only do this every other year.
> 
> ...


You must be in Nashville (or the west coast), since the only Costco with a carwash (east of the Mississippi) is in Nashville (Brentwood).


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## Joe Vance (May 21, 2021)

Evan Williams said:


> Lead photo credit PrimaStockPhoto / Shutterstock
> 
> To ensure that your BMW is performing at its best, you likely run the best fuels and lubricants that you can find. If you want your Bimmer to look as good as it performs, you likely want to detail it with the best products as well. Let’s face it. After spending a good amount of time getting off all that road grime, many of us want to bring back that sexy shine and luster that caught our eyes when we bought our favorite rides.
> 
> Professional detailers break out the buffing wheel and clay bar to restore that showroom look, but at the cost of removing layers of your clearcoat and paint. This is ok to do occasionally, but in the meantime, you break out the microfiber towels and wax to give your car the next best thing. This is what we want to know. What is your go-to detailing wax? Have you gone through different brands to find one that works better than others? We want you hear what you use to bring out the best shine on your Bimmer, so drop a comment below!


What would make my 02 325si miss and lag real bad when I give it a lot of gas I’ve replaced injectors cam sensors spark plugs coil packs 02 sensors I’m at a lose now code for transmission sensors plz any advice would be appreciated


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## crazy4trains (Mar 30, 2011)

Joe Vance said:


> What would make my 02 325si miss and lag real bad when I give it a lot of gas I’ve replaced injectors cam sensors spark plugs coil packs 02 sensors I’m at a lose now code for transmission sensors plz any advice would be appreciated


Joe, you're posting in a detailing forum. Post your question in the model specific (e46) forum. You'll be more likely to get a helpful response there.


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## Buddya (Apr 11, 2021)

Hmmmm... My 2018 X3 is Pearl White - Is that considered a "matte" finish? Some waxes are recommended for matte.


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## crazy4trains (Mar 30, 2011)

No.


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## AlexRulo (Nov 20, 2021)

Last month I had some major issues after parking for 2 weeks under some old trees. First I had to deal with a lot of tree sap and after I solved the problem and managed to remove the tree sap the paint on my car looked really pale. I had to use Wax and I picked the second one you mentioned "*Collinite Double Coat" *and it was fantastic. I really recommend that one.
Standard car waxes are not designed to protect against the ultraviolet light which makes up about 50% of the total light, and is what creates your car's shine. In my case Tree sap caused the damage on my car's shine because it contains tannins, copper ions, and other natural substances. These reactions depend on how long it takes for you to clean off the sap from your vehicle. After removing it, I have used alcohol-based cleaner to prevent any future damage to your car. Be careful where you park!


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## GrussGott (Jul 14, 2004)

AlexRulo said:


> Last month I had some major issues after parking for 2 weeks under some old trees. First I had to deal with a lot of tree sap and after I solved the problem and managed to remove the tree sap the paint on my car looked really pale. I had to use Wax and I picked the second one you mentioned "*Collinite Double Coat" *and it was fantastic. I really recommend that one.
> Standard car waxes are not designed to protect against the ultraviolet light which makes up about 50% of the total light, and is what creates your car's shine. In my case Tree sap caused the damage on my car's shine because it contains tannins, copper ions, and other natural substances. These reactions depend on how long it takes for you to clean off the sap from your vehicle. *After removing it, I have used alcohol-based cleaner to prevent any future damage* to your car. Be careful where you park!


I'm not sure what that part means ... alcohol-based cleaners should remove oils, dirt, etc but also any protection, so now the clear coat would be unprotected ...

In your scenario I'd:

*Do a good pre-rinse with a diluted road film remover* like Superior Products Dirt Buster, Fire Power, Road Warrior, or Dark Fury (which you can easily order from O'Reilly's, but Dark Fury has to be used carefully!) - or an APC like Mequiar's or Super-Clean
*Do a suds pre-rinse & rinse *
*Do a contact wash with low dilution of a rinseless wash like McKees*
*Do a decontamination spray down with a fallout remover like Iron-X, P&S Iron Buster or similar*
*Do a clay wipe with the McKees*
*Do an IPA (i.e., 91% isopropyl alcohol mixed 50/50 w/ distilled water) or paint prep wipe down (e.g., P&S Paint Prep)*
Now that's it's all buffed dry & clean:

*LSP (like TW Flex Wax) that sucker! It's the LSP that should prevent future damage *and if you do a wash every few weeks & do a maintenance Flex Wax wipe down you be max shiny for min work.


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## AlexRulo (Nov 20, 2021)

Man, that's some high level stuff right there. Thanks


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## GrussGott (Jul 14, 2004)

AlexRulo said:


> Man, that's some high level stuff right there. Thanks


Sure, if you do a wash every few weeks (even an easy rinseless wash w/ Mckee's & good microfiber rags), and the put on some turtle wax flex wax, bugs, tree sap, etc should more less hose off.

For the ultimate portable set up to get off even the worst stuff you'd do as above and then to maintain get:

Buy McKees rinseless wash, put a capful into 1 gallon of distilled/de-ioned water you can by @ Whole foods or similar for $0.49/gal - you can use a collapsible bucket for ultimate portability
Buy 10 high quality microfiber rags; minimally like the member's mark from amazon (36 for about $20) or better, 550 everest from the rag company, put 5 in the mckees bucket, keep 5 dry
Pour some of the mckees solution into a spray bottle and spray down the first 2 panels (hood counts as 2)
Take out 1 rag, wring out until just barely no dripping, fold into 1/4s; with 1/4 wipe down the first panel working top to bottom and right to left - no circles!
Use a 2nd dry rag & wipe the panel dry. Spray down the 3rd panel, flip the wet rag to a clean side and wipe down the 2nd panel
Continue this way until done; rags NEVER go back in the bucket - once they come out, they're out and if you drop one grab a new one
Once the car is clean, use new clean microfibers & spray it down with flex wax per the instructions
If you really wanna be awesome, buy a Worx Hydroshot - the cheapest model (w/battery & charger) is fine. now you can just stick the feed hose in the bucket and spray down your car that way. $80 for black friday! 

If you do this every 2-3 weeks, bugs / tree sap / tar should mostly spray off after an initial spray over & dwell time - whatever doesn't should come off with a little agitation with a microfiber wet with mckees solution.


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