# shoul i buy a 1988 750iL?



## particle (Jan 2, 2004)

I'm looking for guidance....


i have a chance to buy a 1988 750iL for $2500 USD


here is the add:

"181000 miles. Runs and Drives great. Very dependable. Was driven on highway as commuter vehicle and for sales. $800 set of all season luxuary/performance tires have less than 1000 miles on them. New Control arms, brakes, muffler, alignment, balance, oil change (full syunthetic). Also Has Aftermarket stereo She has a Very powerful V12 engine, Only problem is needs tune-up and has hail damage."


i have done some homework on the car. summury of what i have learned is "its the greatest car u will ever own but if its not maintained it will be a money pit"



this will be my first car if i deside to get it....


thnx in advance!


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## jw (Dec 21, 2001)

particle said:


> this will be my first car if i deside to get it....


If this is your very first car I would suggest against it, unless as you said, you might have a pile of money which may be potentially used to fill the pit.

In your situation I personally would opt for a car that has lesser mileage and age. I would also consider something that is easily serviced and has readily available parts.


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

I agree with JW, depending on your financial situation, I would strongly recommend something more reliable with less expensive parts/service costs and more DIY potential. (Used Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, Toyota P/U, Ford Escort, etc.) If you are like me and have your heart set on a BMW, I would consider a used E30 (1983-1991) 3 series. You need to look carefully and find one that was well maintained. Pay the $125 for a buyer’s inspection and be ready to walk away from a car if the mechanic says so. 

If you have decent mechanical skills, get a Bentley manual and be ready to learn how to take on projects on your own. There are many discount BMW and aftermarket parts sources for a car like the E30. Otherwise, find an independent BMW shop that you can trust. 

(At 181,000 miles, you can expect a few big ticket repairs to come.)

My first car was the blue 3er below. 
Yes, I loved that it was my first car. 
Yes, other people suggested getting a Honda Civic. 
No, I didn’t listen to them. 
No, I never regretted my decision. 
Yes, it cost me a lot of money when money was tight. 
 
Good luck to ya!


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## Jon Shafer (Dec 15, 2001)

My father owned a 1988 750iL from 1988 - 1996, when I sold it for him for around $9K. During the life
of ownership, the car's service file amassed repair bills to the tune of $40,000. That's _customer pay_, not warranty. Stay away from that car!!


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## mquetel (Jan 30, 2003)

Jon Shafer said:


> My father owned a 1988 750iL from 1988 - 1996, when I sold it for him for around $9K. During the life
> of ownership, the car's service file amassed repair bills to the tune of $40,000. That's _customer pay_, not warranty. Stay away from that car!!


So how is your relationship with dad these days?


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## particle (Jan 2, 2004)

M.Wong said:


> I agree with JW, depending on your financial situation, I would strongly recommend something more reliable with less expensive parts/service costs and more DIY potential. (Used Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, Toyota P/U, Ford Escort, etc.) If you are like me and have your heart set on a BMW, I would consider a used E30 (1983-1991) 3 series. You need to look carefully and find one that was well maintained. Pay the $125 for a buyer?s inspection and be ready to walk away from a car if the mechanic says so.
> 
> If you have decent mechanical skills, get a Bentley manual and be ready to learn how to take on projects on your own. There are many discount BMW and aftermarket parts sources for a car like the E30. Otherwise, find an independent BMW shop that you can trust.
> 
> ...


I dont have a budget...i MAY have extra 1.5k at the time of purchase, I am hapily willing to learn, I can find a mechanic that is willing to put labor on the car w/ my pre-bought parts, alternate transportation = bus, can't i take the 750 for buyers inspection? I would like to be able to diagnose problems w/ this car on site b4 even taking her to see a doctor incase it will seem like a moneypit at site, i know transmition is a big consern - i have never drove 7 series b4 - what should i know about transmition? how does it shift? whats normal whats not? what are other problems i can diagnose at the site?

thnx in advance


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## 01Byte (Jun 22, 2003)

particle said:


> I dont have a budget...i MAY have extra 1.5k at the time of purchase, I am hapily willing to learn, I can find a mechanic that is willing to put labor on the car w/ my pre-bought parts, alternate transportation = bus, can't i take the 750 for buyers inspection? I would like to be able to diagnose problems w/ this car on site b4 even taking her to see a doctor incase it will seem like a moneypit at site, i know transmition is a big consern - i have never drove 7 series b4 - what should i know about transmition? how does it shift? whats normal whats not? what are other problems i can diagnose at the site?
> 
> thnx in advance


Like everyone else... I don't think you should get it. It sounds like your after the image more than the car. If you don't have a strong budget to maintain the vehicle then don't do it. The end result is it's going to run you out of money and then you'll probably have to give it away..

Take our advice and get a 3 instead.. they are just as fun to drive and MUCH easier to maintain.

Hope this helps and good luck.


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## particle (Jan 2, 2004)

naw...i dont want to say that image in nothing but this is an amazing car, my uncle had this car when i lived in europe... it was a 1990 version tho...he loved that car more the his wife (so his wife left him!). This is the top of the line ride that bmw had to offer. yes the image comes w/ the car, but i would take this car if the stereotype for it would be that only poor servents drive this car. i want a car that will satisfi me, yes this is MY first car, but its not like i never spent time between the wheels on my mom's 98 civic or begged mechanic at the dealership to let me watch and expalin me what he was doing when he was working on my moms 03 aultima. I used to be in to imports since 1997-1998, b4 the fast and the furious flix came out and everyone grebed their mother's honda and staped exaust and a nos sticker to the back. I lack the actual technical experience but i read enuff to be able to site copression ratings of any engine made in past 15 years in us or japan that can fit in my mom's honda, i have wrote up exact components that i will need to fit in the h22a1 jdm engine into my civ instead of the puny d16y7. I am willing to learn the mechanical part, and i will take any oportunity to do so. I am very passionate about my cars and i will learn everything i can about them and i am willing to put every penny i make into them. I very much respect and am very very thankfull for the responses i have gotten, I just realy wish i could get some info on what shall i look when i will go for a 180mile dirive to check out the car. I would hate going all the way there and not being able to spot somthing obvious.

So if posible, any one that had or has an older 750iL, or knows reference materials that will help me diagnose "sure money pit" problems on site offer me your help!

thanx in advance



orion7701 said:


> Like everyone else... I don't think you should get it. It sounds like your after the image more than the car. If you don't have a strong budget to maintain the vehicle then don't do it. The end result is it's going to run you out of money and then you'll probably have to give it away..
> 
> Take our advice and get a 3 instead.. they are just as fun to drive and MUCH easier to maintain.
> 
> Hope this helps and good luck.


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## M.Wong (Jan 9, 2003)

Oh, I guess I did not understand that you are asking *how to buy a 1998 750iL.* I was answering the title, "Should I buy a 1988 750iL?"

Sorry, I don't have any insight. I still say an inline 6 is the more reliable way to go. I love my E30 at 194,000 miles! 

Good luck to you.



particle said:


> I just realy wish i could get some info on what shall i look when i will go for a 180mile dirive to check out the car.
> 
> So if posible, any one that had or has an older 750iL, or knows reference materials that will help me diagnose "sure money pit" problems on site offer me your help!


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## audiophilia (Mar 25, 2003)

particle said:


> I'm looking for guidance....


Totally cool car, if it works. Chances are it won't, even in the short term. The possibilities for tears over this car are endless...

Best to stay away and get yourself a nice E30.

Good luck :thumbup:


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## beware_phog (Mar 7, 2003)

particle said:


> I'm looking for guidance....
> 
> i have a chance to buy a 1988 750iL for $2500 USD
> 
> ...


No way. You'd make better use of your money burning it in your fire place.


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## bmw325 (Dec 19, 2001)

That car and especially that model year (which I think was the first MY for the v12), are pretty notorious. I think the 750 might rank as one of the top 5 money pit cars of all time. Like everyone else said, stay away from that car. Seriously, do a quick google search on "750", and you'll likely by the horrified by the stories. If you really have your heart set on it, you should go into it with the same mindset that you might enter a casino: pick an amount of money that you're willing to lose, and walk away when it exceeds that amound. Assume that the car will be worth $0 (so you lost the inital $2500), and pick an amount of money you're willing to spend on repairs (say $4000). So, if you're willing to take the chance of losing $6500 (or whatever your limit is), go for it. Personally, I think it might be a better idea to take the $2500, go to roulette wheel and bet it all on black (or red).


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

I'd get an E30. You'll get a much more fun car and you'll be able to fix it yourself.

Remember that BMW made the V12 by welding two inline six engines together. IIRC, you have THREE engine management systems: One for each side of the engine, and then another to control the two sides. And that's just the start of it.

The 750s are worth almost nothing now because they cost more than most new cars in repairs. Assuming that Jon's father had the car for five years out of warranty, he paid almost $700 PER MONTH in REPAIRS. You could BUY a new E46 for that price and it would actually work.


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