# Claying the windshield works!



## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

BmW745On19's said:


> On that LS430, the wiper blades dug into the glass at one time you can tell and made some severe scratches in the glass. I tried just 0000 dry with no polish. Should I just let it be?


Sounds like replacement maybe in order, nothing that I've seen on the market can remove scratches from glass.


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## Mk23 (May 12, 2008)

AndrewBigA said:


> you can purchase it at any hardware store or home depot. place the pad within your middle 3 fingers & use your pinky & thumb as a guide so you dont scratch the molding or cowel. for the bottom of the glass by the wipers you would be using your thumb if your right handed. for the top of the windshield you would be using your pinky as a guide if your right handed. if you always keep the pad between your middle 3 fingers you should be fine. you can polish the glass when the glass is dry or you can spray some water on the glass as well. i prefer glass cleaner.
> 
> as far as water spots, clay bar does nothing, steel wool does nothing as well.
> 
> ...


Guess I'll have to give that steel wool a try, do I need to lubricate the windshield as I use the steel wool? Or put anything on it? Or do I just go to town with it dry?

Claying the windshield DID work but only for a little while, I am now getting skipping/chattering again when it's raining. Guess I'll go the steel wool route and report back.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Mk23 said:


> Guess I'll have to give that steel wool a try, do I need to lubricate the windshield as I use the steel wool? Or put anything on it? Or do I just go to town with it dry?
> 
> Claying the windshield DID work but only for a little while, I am now getting skipping/chattering again when it's raining. Guess I'll go the steel wool route and report back.


You do not need a lube with SW...just be careful around the rubber and painted areas with it

For the chatter use some wd40 on the blade, I do and it softens them up...


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## Mk23 (May 12, 2008)

dboy11 said:


> You do not need a lube with SW...just be careful around the rubber and painted areas with it
> 
> For the chatter use some wd40 on the blade, I do and it softens them up...


WD40? Really? Just spray it on the blade then wipe it off?


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Mk23 said:


> WD40? Really? Just spray it on the blade then wipe it off?


Yes

I spray it on a rag then wipe the blade, not leaving any residue on the blade, seems to help with the chattering


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## AndrewBigA (Jun 11, 2009)

dboy11 said:


> You do not need a lube with SW...just be careful around the rubber and painted areas with it
> 
> For the chatter use some wd40 on the blade, I do and it softens them up...


wouldnt the wd40 streak the glass? to clean the wiper blade i use those single packaged alcohol swabs. you know, the same kind a nurse would use to clean your arm before they prick you with the needle lol.


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## Mk23 (May 12, 2008)

AndrewBigA said:


> wouldnt the wd40 streak the glass? to clean the wiper blade i use those single packaged alcohol swabs. you know, the same kind a nurse would use to clean your arm before they prick you with the needle lol.


Hmm, alcohol huh. Think I got some of those around here. Might just try that first since I'm a tad bit worried I will get streaking from the WD40.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Mk23 said:


> Hmm, alcohol huh. Think I got some of those around here. Might just try that first since I'm a tad bit worried I will get streaking from the WD40.


WD40 is not an oil its a cleaner...The way I use it is to, apply to a clean rag, wipe the blade, then use a clean dry towel to pick up the residue. I've never noticed any streaking

Using alcohol will dry the rubber on the blade, rubber has a natural oil in it and the alcohol will remove what on the surface, that said I wouldn't think twice about using it, as the blades will wear out before any amount of alcohol will dry them out.

Here is an explanation about how it was invented and what the name means

According to the company that makes WD-40: WD-40 literally stands for water displacement 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who helped develop WD-40 back in 1953. Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion, a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula for WD-40 on his 40th try.

WD-40 was invented by the three founders of the Rocket Chemical Company of San Diego, California. The team of inventors were working on a line of industrial rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry.

WD-40 was first used to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. Norm Larsen repackaged WD-40 into aerosol cans for consumer use and the product was sold to the general public in 1958. In 1969, the Rocket Chemical Company was renamed after its only product WD-40.


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## AndrewBigA (Jun 11, 2009)

dboy11 said:


> WD40 is not an oil its a cleaner...The way I use it is to, apply to a clean rag, wipe the blade, then use a clean dry towel to pick up the residue. I've never noticed any streaking
> 
> Using alcohol will dry the rubber on the blade, rubber has a natural oil in it and the alcohol will remove what on the surface, that said I wouldn't think twice about using it, as the blades will wear out before any amount of alcohol will dry them out.


same like how some detailers will use alcohol to clean up any dried up compound, polish or wax that got onto a rubber or hard plastic molding. thats why there are trim restore products that will restore the original color and provide excellent protection like Black Wow.

you say WD40 is a cleaner not an oil but your incorrect.

"[edit] Function
The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing glue.

[edit] Formulation
WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented in order to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[2] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene) 
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 
10-%: Inert ingredients 
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:

60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated 
1-5%: Carbon dioxide 
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.

There is a popular, but incorrect, urban legend that the key ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil.[3] The WD-40 web site states that it is a petroleum based product [4]"

taken from Wikipedia, here is the link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

i heard theres vegetable oil in there but im not sure about that. there is deffinitly some form of an oil ingredient in the recipe.

:thumbup:

try WD40 on the plastic wheel well liners, works great & lasts a pretty decent amount of time.

have a good night.


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