# Track wheels



## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

Time for track wheels....so BBS RKs or RXs?


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Neither.

Find some used rashed--up OEM M Lightweights or something.


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## PhilH (Jun 7, 2002)

I love RKs and since they're so lightweight they would make great track wheels.


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## Chris330Ci (Jan 23, 2002)

I like the RX's better although I know some will argue that the RK's provide better brake cooling, weight savings, etc.


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

RG-R, diamond black


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## nate (Dec 24, 2001)

atyclb said:


> *RG-R, diamond black *


Those are too expensive.

RKs or SSR Comps for low cost and light weight...


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

nate328Ci said:


> *Those are too expensive.
> 
> *


I didn't see a cost requirement/parameter


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## Chris330Ci (Jan 23, 2002)

nate328Ci said:


> *Those are too expensive.
> 
> RKs or SSR Comps for low cost and light weight... *


SSR Comps would be my choice had that been an option. Nate, did you go with the RX's the other day? :dunno:


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## nate (Dec 24, 2001)

Chris330Ci said:


> *SSR Comps would be my choice had that been an option. Nate, did you go with the RX's the other day? :dunno: *


I've got some time to think about it, as they won't be in stock for a week or so...

Likely, yes...


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

I may got with LTW wheels, I'm talking to a guy now..they even have a good set of RA1s on 'em.

The RXs are 4lbs/wheel heavier than the RKs.

For track wheels I don't wanna spend big bucks.
If I was racing or for street rims that would be fine, but for a DE I'd rather not spend $400+/wheel.

I've got a buddy working on a deal for the RK/RXs for me (good guy discount)


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

for the uninitiated:

RK


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

RX


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## nate (Dec 24, 2001)

If you want looks, the RXs are much more attractive, IMO...


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

nate328Ci said:


> *If you want looks, the RXs are much more attractive, IMO... *


I'm inclined to agree, and a few pennies cheaper


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

in_d_haus said:


> *I'm inclined to agree, and a few pennies cheaper *


if they're track-only wheels, who cares about looks? 4 lbs/wheel is a lot, no?


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

16lbs overall...100lbs weight is roughly .01 sec


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

in_d_haus said:


> *16lbs overall...100lbs weight is roughly .01 sec *


 you're saying if you had a 200 lb passenger in your car, your times would only be 0.02 seconds slower?


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## Ausgang (Jan 4, 2002)

It's been a while since I've auto-x'ed, but my choices were driven by two things: Weight and whether they were forged or not. If I recall correctly Fikse had some nice strong and light stuff for Bimmers too.

4lbs/wheel difference is significant. Back when one could get magnesium wheels like the original Minilites --- we used to shave an additional 4lbs/wheel by using magnesium lugnuts too. They weren't cheap!


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## PhilH (Jun 7, 2002)

in_d_haus said:


> *16lbs overall...100lbs weight is roughly .01 sec *


I think the old rule of thumb is for every 100lb you lose 0.1 seconds (in the quarter mile? 0-60?).


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

atyclb said:


> * you're saying if you had a 200 lb passenger in your car, your times would only be 0.02 seconds slower? *


DOH! that should be .1 sec

The 100lbs weight reduction = .1 sec is a generally accepted rule.

I gave a BIG guy a ride in my car at the track on Sunday...it really effected the cars handling and I'm sure the time. He was probably close to 300lbs


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

in_d_haus said:


> *DOH! that should be .1 sec
> 
> The 100lbs weight reduction = .1 sec is a generally accepted rule.
> 
> I gave a BIG guy a ride in my car at the track on Sunday...it really effected the cars handling and I'm sure the time. He was probably close to 300lbs *


are you sure you're not thinking about 100lbs =10HP?

The generally accepted rule of 100lb = .1 seconds would totally depend on the length of a course. :dunno:


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

I've never heard it described as 100lbs = 10hp....
I generally don't use any of the generalities thrown around myself. Just quoted it for GP.

Point is 16 lbs on a 3200lb car aint much gain.
The gain in durability of the wheel may be more substantial. I know a few people who have bent SSR Comps pretty easily.


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## Akakubi (Dec 21, 2001)

Guys, we're talking about unsprung weight here. :angel:

Each lb of usprung weight equates to about 10lbs of sprung, so you'll be saving 160lbs with RK's! 

But I would still stay with LTW's


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## XKxRome0ox (Mar 3, 2003)

i thought it was ...

for every 8 pounds shaved is equivalent of 1 hp gained
which would make it 80 pounds shaved = 10 hp gained


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

How much do the LTW's weigh?

I went with RK's. Light, strong, cheap, open design to help cool the brakes and allow easy checking of brake pad thickness. They look good, too. I like 'em. Although if looks is the only concern, the RX's are a bit prettier, I think.


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## Akakubi (Dec 21, 2001)

About the same as RX's. Rears would be a little heavier due to staggered setup.


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

Akakubi said:


> *About the same as RX's. Rears would be a little heavier due to staggered setup. *


I don't run a staggered setup on my car, don't like the induced understeer.


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## jaramill (Feb 20, 2002)

I've thought about this scenario many a times and for auto-x, de's, or track schools, as well as street driving, the looks, weight, price, performance of the BBS RK (17x8.5) would be my choice.

But for pure looks for street driving only?

BBS CH hands down (with etched "MOTORSPORT" lettering)


Gio


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## Raffi (May 18, 2002)

Cheap option: what Kaz said, a set of rashed up wheels.

Better option, more expensive IMHO: the RKs, which allow greater cooling and are very light. 

Skip the SSRs as they are supposed to bend easily if you drive on the burms (no first hand experience with SSRs, though).


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

I agree with the cheap wheels. Unless you are racing, go with the cheapest wheels that will do the job. Save the fancy expensive wheels for the street.

If you are racing, you go for the lightest wheels you can afford. Looks don't count. Or you go with whatever wheel you can get somebody to give you as part of a sponsorship deal.


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## biodan (Apr 9, 2003)

I'm running a set of used BBS RC's (rashed driver's front by the previous owner), about 19lbs per wheel for 18x8.5 and 20lbs for 18x10. About 5-6 lbs saved per corner over stock wheels.

On my last E36M3, i ran IFG A5's - too bad they're outa business. They imported Russion aerospace-industry hot-forged wheels. In fact, i still have them & they're for sale. 2 are bare, the other 2 have 7/8 tread on Michelin MXX 245/40-17. No road rash whatsoever, but the cap threads on one is scored.

Caution: big pix on this link
http://home.attbi.com/~biodan/ifg.html


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## TGray5 (Jan 22, 2002)

The RXs are much more of a classic German look IMO and are very nice. But bottom line is, I'd buy some used wheels. I use an old set of stock M3 rims for my track wheels (after getting sideways at 70 mph in the dirt at willow springs...they became my dedicated track wheels). Eventually the wheels will get some battle scars and if they are new...you are going to worry too much about them. Additionally, you will be mounting a lot of tires on those rims, so eventually the tire guy is going to scratch or chip them. So, Buy something used IMO...if you can find some light weight ones, all the better, but frankly if you aren't racing, its not really going to matter and the extra strength of a stock rim or a BBS will be a plus if you have an off road excursion in some rough terrain. Also, the plus of having identical track wheels to your street wheels is that if you happen to curb rash one of your street wheels, you can always swap it with one of your track wheels...been there, done that. btw, I'm going with the Toyo RA1s next time around...hear good things about em.


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## TGray5 (Jan 22, 2002)

Akakubi said:


> *Guys, we're talking about unsprung weight here. :angel:
> 
> Each lb of usprung weight equates to about 10lbs of sprung, so you'll be saving 160lbs with RK's!
> 
> ...


I think you are referring to rotational mass, not unsprung....shedding unsprung weight is important for handling reasons, but does not have the same benefit as shedding rotational weight on acceleration. I think rotation weight vs. static weight savings are on the order of 3-4:1...but I'm not positive.


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## Akakubi (Dec 21, 2001)

Yes, you are correct, handling and ride are most affected by unsprung weight. 

:banghead: :banghead: :bigpimp:


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## in_d_haus (Jan 2, 2002)

going with the stock '95 M3 wheels...they come with brand new Toyo RA1 (used less than a season) for $600...can't beat the price...may get some RXs later


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## Akakubi (Dec 21, 2001)

Great deal! :thumbup: 

Time to test them on May 23rd or 30th at PIR.


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