# HELP! Whine in stereo with volume all the way down...



## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

Ok, so here goes...

I have a whine in my stereo when the volume is all the way down, and you stop hearing it after you start driving, or I think even with the motor running it goes away. Obviously intereference somewhere, but where? 

Could I have an issue with cables crossed or something in the back? I don't know. I do know that its driving me absolutely mad! 

I can hear the sound of the CD spinning up in the head unit through the speakers, and I can also hear a clicking sound through the speakers that sounds like the CD spinning. I think. 

Someone please give me insight on this one. I just disconnected all the speakers in my car and re-crimped the connectors to the amp and to the crossovers. I am checking everything, but I just don't know what it could be right now. I don't think its an alternator whine, because it doesn't change with engine RPM.

Ok, so if anyone has any ideas let me know.

I set the head unit to 75% and then did the voltmeter 0db 1khz & 50hz sine wave test last night setting it so the amps gain settings are matched to the headunit output perfectly.

I am at a loss now, please help.


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

To offer useful info, I would need to know details about your system. 

I suspect your gain is too high and you should put down the voltmeter, mark the gain setting with a pencil, and then lower the gain and see if your hiss goes away. I expect it will. If I'm wrong, it's 2 seconds to return it to where you had it.


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

I have tried that as well. Keep in mind, BEFORE I installed the new tweeters, using the same wire, and hte same everything else, I didn't have the whine. I also hear the clicking of the CD in the player. I am starting to wonder if the stock wiring in the door is just not thick enough to work with the ads tweeters. They effectively weigh at least 5 times what any other car tweeters I have ever seen weigh. I just bought some JL XR speakers for the NSX and they don't even come close. So currently I am anticipating running new speaker wires through the door harness to the tweeters. Thats all I can think of to be honest. 

Gain was not changed for the install, as a matter of fact, its pretty damned hard to get to the amp. Only reason I am working with it now is I want the new 500/1 to be matched to the head unit as well.

I am re-routing and shortening all the power cables to the amplifiers. Trying to clean it up a bit. The next step will be to replace the wire in the doors with some monster cable. They tell me that cable is cable, but the gauge does make a big difference. So maybe the 75-150 watts for the tweets is too much for the wire that is in there? I dont know. 

I really really don't want to take apart the car to solve this issue, but it looks like it will be in the works. I need to pull the glove box anyways to fix that rattle, but I am afraid of taking apart the doors. I just got them back together!

Also, I had the 300 amp on full range, I switched it to high pass, so maybe that will bring up the tweeters a bit. The crossovers were already on +3 decibels or whatever.

Ideas anyone? The stock tweets were just so bright that its a major difference to me. Maybe I just don't have the right ear for these fancy speakers?


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

Ok, details...

Harmon Kardon Traffic Pro Non-BMW
4 RCA jacks for front/rear
1 RCA jack for subwoofer out
1 RCA jack for phone (not connected)

Monster XLN Mini RCA cables run down center console into amps, extra wire coiled next to amp (if that matters)

a/d/s 346is speakers in front kickpanels/door
a/d/s 345im coax speakers in rear roof
JL 300/4 for fronts and rears
JL 6W0 in factory sub box
JL e1200 for factory sub
a/d/s R10s subwoofer X2 in custom box
JL 500/1 to power 10 inch subs

Monster home speaker wire run to all speakers, 12ga, white sheath, green stripe stuff
Door tweeters are run with factory wire from the door harness.

Front Crossovers on top of 300/4 amp in the factory amp/CD changer location
Rear crossovers on top of rear fenders under carpet

Thats about it.


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

I have a/d/s/ tweeters using stock wire, no problems and this is the third late model BMW they've been installed in.

Do you have a line output converter in the equation? You didn't mention one, but I ask cuz I had similar problem with my install using SVEN4 LOC. I have since replaced with an Audio Control EQS and my noise issues are gone.

You also need to be sure you have no +12v wires running parallel to your input signals. I had my amp-on wire near my input signals and that caused noise too.

Anyway, a couple of experience based suggestions for you. I do understand you were noise free before the tweeter addition. In one of my E39's I had noise in speakers that were not even connected to anything! I had to relocate the crossovers and it went away. Very odd.


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

So the turn on lead could be an issue? That I didn't know. I guess I should have. I will look into making sure that its run the long way I guess. Currently I have the twin 10s on a turn on lead that is connected to an HK spatial surround switch from the E36 M3. So I can throw the switch and the subs go off. A nice touch, but the wires are probably close to the RCAs. I wonder if I may have messed with those recently, but I dont think so..


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

If the problem is hiss that is not RPM dependent, then it's not the usual "engine noise" suspects. 

It is DEFINITELY not the stock wire. 

I doubt it has anything to do with the remote turn on. Easy to test. BUt I doubt it. 

Check if the hiss continues with the amps off - if neccesary, pull the turn on at the amp to check this (but do NOT pull the fuse under the hood!)

It is possible for the inductors in the tweeter section of the passive crossover to pick up EMI and "push" the tweeters directly. If this is happening, the problem will happen with the amps off. You can also test this by temporarily relocating them, which is how you solve it if that is the problem.


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

Wait - if they are ON TOP of the amp, they could be picking up power supply EMI. 

relocate them temporarily off of the amps and retest. Keep them away from the power wires of the amp as well.


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

I am going to hook the speakers back up one set at a time to see if I can isolate the issues.

Then I am powering up the 500/1..

So much to do, so little time. Where does all the time go?


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

Look, it's not the speakers or the wire. It's either the xovers, the amp gains, or some HU/amp interaction. 

You would be best off to leave the speakers in place - taking them out doesn't help any with t-shooting. 

You should also use an iPod, MP3 player, or Discman with an RCA adapter and see if the problem occurs without the HU connected. Easy test, no reason not to do it. 

Also, the 500/1 is Class D and might be emitting the EMI that the passive xovers are picking up.


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

Well, ummm... I took out all of the speakers, re-routed all the power and lead lines, and then reconnected all the wires after freshly trimming the speaker wires and tinning the ends. After that, I also turned down the gain about half. It still gets loud enough to pop my ear drums, but I guess it will do.

Now I am working on the box, some more. I have a ways to go. The first sub box is done, but I don't like it, I am designing a new box this time. It should be about twice as large as the existing one.

The new subs really do have some punch. Its amazing bass. I am still working on how I am going to make this look factory.


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

So you fixed it and you don't know how?


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## Mpire (Mar 28, 2003)

Yeah, no clue what I did. I did re-crimp all the ends and I trimmed off plenty of excess wire. I also re-routed a couple speaker wires. Not sure how that would have any effect, but apparently it did.


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