# What type of leather is Nasca leather?



## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

What type of leather is Nasca leather?

i was able to find this posted several times, but since i dont have my car with me at the moment i was wondering if anyone could enlighten me...



> (a)Protected leather (covered) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it's protected. If water 'beads' on the surface, then it is probably covered leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably finished leather
> 
> (b)Natural leather (uncovered) Has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).


From the information ive gathered from autopia most automotive leather is protected?


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## TOGWT (May 26, 2004)

ganesht said:


> What type of leather is Nasca leather?
> 
> i was able to find this posted several times, but since i dont have my car with me at the moment i was wondering if anyone could enlighten me...
> 
> From the information ive gathered from autopia most automotive leather is protected?


1. Do you mean Nappa leather?

2. Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late '80s early '90s, many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 90% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) polyurethane covered split hide leather for their interior upholstery. 
Pigmented/Protected leather upholstery accounts for most auto leather upholstery, normally termed 'split-leather or by-cast. This is the most common leather upholstery finish - a water-based pigment (paint) is applied and then it is coated by melting a special glue on the surface, then a film of protective urethane is placed over a sealed split leather hide. This type of covering makes it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil / salt, is leathers worst enemy.

While leather that is urethane coated is relatively easy to care for by virtue of its protective plastic surface, it is also inaccessible for purposes of maintenance. Reminder; you are dealing with the finished surface coating and not with the leather itself. Meaning, of course, there is absolutely no point to using leather conditioners on plastic coated leather.

An extract from one of a series of in-depth © detailing articles by TOGWT ™​


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

nope i mean nasca, 
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/51927014818/
Upholstery leather, Nasca - U6SW SCHWARZ
For vehicles with:
Leather "Nasca" (U6) = Yes

im going to dye the leather and im going to have to sand the leather, this should take off the sealant right?


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

Anyone?


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## BrianSF (Feb 9, 2006)

TOGWT said:


> 1. Do you mean Nappa leather?
> 
> 2. Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late '80s early '90s, many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 90% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) polyurethane covered split hide leather for their interior upholstery.
> Pigmented/Protected leather upholstery accounts for most auto leather upholstery, normally termed 'split-leather or by-cast. This is the most common leather upholstery finish - a water-based pigment (paint) is applied and then it is coated by melting a special glue on the surface, then a film of protective urethane is placed over a sealed split leather hide. This type of covering makes it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil / salt, is leathers worst enemy.
> ...


TOGWT--Does this mean I can toss my Zaino Z9/Z10 and Meguiars leather cleaners/conditioners and start using something else (what?)? Or does this not apply to our Dakota and Nappa leather-covered BMW seats?


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## TOGWT (May 26, 2004)

The majority of automotive upholstery is protected leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, split leather will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours, protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes them more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry. *As the top surface has polyurethane finish over pigmented finished leather, creams should not be used. *

Reminder; you are dealing with the finished surface coating and not with the leather itself.

To determine if your leather is protected with a polyurethane covering; lightly scratch it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it's protected. If water 'beads' on the surface, then it is probably covered leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably (pigmented) finished leather.

*The keys to leather care are keeping leather; *

(a) Hydrated - use water-based products and clean surfaces with a damp towel

(b) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear.

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish

For many, finding the best leather care product is as simple as using what is the most popular. While popularity can sometimes be a reliable barometer, it isn't always the correct choice. Some even make their decision based on new car's leather fragrance alone. My best advise; research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information, not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved. See article in Detailing Bliss forum, Detailing School section​


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

TOGWT said:


> *As the top surface has polyurethane finish over pigmented finished leather, creams should not be used. *
> 
> Reminder; you are dealing with the finished surface coating and not with the leather itself.


so the reason you sand leather before redyeing is to remove the poly finishing? that way you can get the dye to the leather...



> To determine if your leather is protected with a polyurethane covering; lightly scratch it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it's protected. If water 'beads' on the surface, then it is probably covered leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably (pigmented) finished leather.


Can someone with either nasca or dakota leather try this?


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## TOGWT (May 26, 2004)

ganesht said:


> so the reason you sand leather before redyeing is to remove the poly finishing? that way you can get the dye to the leather...


All though a water-based leather dye will permeate uratheene it does so very slowly and unevenly,therefore you sand ......



> Can someone with either nasca or dakota leather try this?


95% + of modern automobiles have covered leather fitted, Nasca as I've said I've not heard of before, so I'll just watch and learn....


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

TOGWT said:


> All though a water-based leather dye will permeate uratheene it does so very slowly and unevenly,therefore you sand ......


Thank you!


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## George LRP (May 8, 2009)

Hello;
Yes, the finish on your leather is a water based finish and will be very compatible with your new water based dye. Yes, you must prep/wet sand the surface. This is most important to remove the build up of surface coatings so the new dye can adhere, bond and look natural. Waxes, petroleum distilates, silicones, all sit on top of your surface and must be cleaned away. If you've ever experienced "fish eye" of exterior paint due to silicone applications on the surface, the same result can occur on your leather. All that surface build up must be cleaned away, and the top mil of old color cleaned away with your prepping agent so the new dye can adhere. Please don't create suede, but do a thorough job of prepping. Good prepping is the most important step.

Leather restoration and preservation is our speciality, so email me if I can be of any service, regards,
George
www.Leatherique.com


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## BrianSF (Feb 9, 2006)

Okay, I'll admit to being dense, but I still don't get one thing: I've been either using a Meguiar's leather conditioner (don't recall the exact name) or Zaino Z9 and Z10 to clean and condition the leather in my 2009 E90. Are those good products to use or not? If not, what would be best.

And, as a follow on, what's best to use on a 1988 M5? I've been told the leather in the car (and there is a ton of it) is not cow hide, but buffalo hide.

Thanks,
Brian


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

BrianSF said:


> Okay, I'll admit to being dense, but I still don't get one thing: I've been either using a Meguiar's leather conditioner (don't recall the exact name) or Zaino Z9 and Z10 to clean and condition the leather in my 2009 E90. Are those good products to use or not? If not, what would be best.
> 
> And, as a follow on, what's best to use on a 1988 M5? I've been told the leather in the car (and there is a ton of it) is not cow hide, but buffalo hide.
> 
> ...


oooo a e28 m5, nice!

i use zaino on the e28's seats but i had to fill in the cracks and re dye them when i got the seats, so i guess any sealant left on the leather would have been sanded off... i love the way the zaino makes the leather feel...

but if it still has the sealant im not sure..


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## BrianSF (Feb 9, 2006)

ganesht said:


> oooo a e28 m5, nice!
> 
> i use zaino on the e28's seats but i had to fill in the cracks and re dye them when i got the seats, so i guess any sealant left on the leather would have been sanded off... i love the way the zaino makes the leather feel...
> 
> but if it still has the sealant im not sure..


Thanks!

My E28 M5's seats are pretty pristine as the car sits in my garage and has about 38,500 miles on the odometer. The last time I did anything with its leather (many, many years ago), I used Lexol. At its next washing, I'm thinking of treating the leather and, unless I hear otherwise, guess I'll just wipe them down with a damp MF towel (not worth using Zaino Z9) then apply some Zaino Z10.

I know what you mean about the smell of Zaino's products. I Z6'd my E90 last night and kept sticking my head in the garage to smell it. Yes, I know that's weird...

Brian


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## ganesht (Sep 9, 2008)

BrianSF said:


> Thanks!
> 
> My E28 M5's seats are pretty pristine as the car sits in my garage and has about 38,500 miles on the odometer. The last time I did anything with its leather (many, many years ago), I used Lexol. At its next washing, I'm thinking of treating the leather and, unless I hear otherwise, guess I'll just wipe them down with a damp MF towel (not worth using Zaino Z9) then apply some Zaino Z10.
> 
> ...


not weird at all, i want to treat my office chair! maybe the idea of going to work wont be so daunting then...:dunno:


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