# Wheel stud conversion



## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

So I decided to convert to wheel studs from wheel bolts. Tired of trying to juggle parts while installing (namely, brake rotors and wheels), not to mention the increased safety for track duty (the studs are much stronger than bolts), were pretty good reasons to make the switch (I like to rationalize).

These are from http://roadracetech.com. I received several recommendations for them, including the E46 SIG list as well as bimmerfester crazy man Nick325xiT.

Also recommended were studs from TC Kline who wanted about $50 more (per set of 20) for his similar "NASCAR style stud."

Anyway, quality looks good, and they're definitely long enough for any spacer that one might need. Unfortunately, they are long enough for any spacer that one might need, so they stick out quite a bit if you don't use spacers. Oh well.

For more on wheel studs, there's this thread (click here)


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## bren (Jul 1, 2002)

Those are on my X-mas list. I imagine the chariot look takes some getting used to.


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## The Roadstergal (Sep 7, 2002)

I see those bolts sticking out, and Greased Lightning cues in my mind.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

They don't stick out so much with an 18mm spacer.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

The Roadstergal said:


> I see those bolts sticking out, and Greased Lightning cues in my mind.


Like bren I was thinking of the chariot in "Ben Hur." Not sure which fate would be better: lose to Charleston Heston and end up dying, or live with the humiliation of losing to John Travolta. :dunno:

I probably would have gone with the short TC Krime studs, but I don't know what I will eventually be doing regarding wheels or maybe (waaaay down the road) a BBK. Unfortunately it isn't as simple as switching to a longer stud later on. The problem is if (and that's a big if) my handywork isn't screwed up, they'll be a PITA to remove since Loctite red is used. So I went with the wheel shredders.

Side note: a good part of the extra length is from the smooth "bullet" nose portion, which I guess is what allows the use of an impact wrench without needing to thread the nut on by hand.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Man those stick out a heck of a lot.... Is the average deep impact socket deep enough?


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

doeboy said:


> Man those stick out a heck of a lot.... Is the average deep impact socket deep enough?


Yeah, long impact sockets work. I think that pic is a little deceptive, but still, they're pretty long and it would be a PITA tightening them down by hand.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Um, yeah. Don't forget your impact wrench.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

Nick325xiT 5spd said:


> Um, yeah. Don't forget your impact wrench.


I was thinking the same thing... :rofl:


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

doeboy said:


> I was thinking the same thing... :rofl:


 You'll never understand until you actually do.

God that sucked.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

elbert said:


> The problem is if (and that's a big if) my handywork isn't screwed up, they'll be a PITA to remove since Loctite red is used. So I went with the wheel shredders.


I think PITA will be the tamest thing you'll say if you want to remove them. Red Loctite is meant for "permanent" installations. It's not totally unbreakable but it sure is hard to...


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

:dunno:


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

I'll bet it wouldn't be too hard with the sruch nuts they provide, a breaker bar, and a five foot pipe.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to find out this weekend. The LF wheel bearing is gone, and the car is going back to stock. (The suspension had to come out temporarily anyway.)


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## BahnBaum (Feb 25, 2004)

Nick325xiT 5spd said:


> the car is going back to stock. (The suspension had to come out temporarily anyway.)


Why?

Alex


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Because my LF wheel bearing has failed, and because I need to get a shock repaired.


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## bren (Jul 1, 2002)

TeamM3 said:


> :dunno:


Those are some nice NutzZz.

It doesn't look like they are hollow...I don't see any threads on the open end.


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

the threads don't extend past the exterior socket hex surface, the unthreaded extension on the end is to protect/hide the stud threads

ps: they're forged magnesium and light, yet still sronger than the most steel nuts


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## bren (Jul 1, 2002)

TeamM3 said:


> the threads don't extend past the exterior socket hex surface, the unthreaded extension on the end is to protect/hide the stud threads
> 
> ps: they're forged magnesium and light, yet still sronger than the most steel nuts


 And expensive too :yikes:


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

bren said:


> And expensive too :yikes:


yeah, $4 -$5 each typically


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

TeamM3 said:


> the threads don't extend past the exterior socket hex surface, the unthreaded extension on the end is to protect/hide the stud threads
> 
> ps: they're forged magnesium and light, yet still sronger than the most steel nuts


Crap, I didn't think about the exposed threads. I guess I'll have to get those when the lugs get beat up by the impact wrench.


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