# BioDan- Need you help Roll Bar Install



## FlyingDutchMan (Jul 18, 2003)

*Rollbar Installed tonight PICS*

The AP rollbar will be here tomorrow. I pulled my seats and should be able to get the bar installed pretty easily myself. Any input on this install would be helpful from those of you that have done it.

But my real question was with regards to your package shelf you designed. You posted some pictures of the wood ribs you had cut to support this shelf where the rear seat used to be. I was wondering if you had templates for cutting out those components. I would be willing to compensate you for them, it will save me a lot of trial and error fitting and cutting.

FDM


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## biodan (Apr 9, 2003)

No templates, but i could trace the ones i have. Mine aren't a perfect match, contact with the 'ditch' is mostly at the extremities. But it'd give you a start.

send me email at 4thm3 at roadfly dot org.



FlyingDutchMan said:


> The AP rollbar will be here tomorrow. I pulled my seats and should be able to get the bar installed pretty easily myself. Any input on this install would be helpful from those of you that have done it.
> 
> But my real question was with regards to your package shelf you designed. You posted some pictures of the wood ribs you had cut to support this shelf where the rear seat used to be. I was wondering if you had templates for cutting out those components. I would be willing to compensate you for them, it will save me a lot of trial and error fitting and cutting.
> 
> FDM


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## FlyingDutchMan (Jul 18, 2003)

biodan said:


> No templates, but i could trace the ones i have. Mine aren't a perfect match, contact with the 'ditch' is mostly at the extremities. But it'd give you a start.
> 
> send me email at 4thm3 at roadfly dot org.


I'll try fabing a couple and see how it goes. I think it will be tough to get a perfect mach, the pan is pretty uneven. I was thinking I would build the shelf with a ledge at hte fron side to keep stuff from sliding forwards and buy one of those elastic trunk nets like the 7 series have to hold stuff down.


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## biodan (Apr 9, 2003)

I started with thick cardboard. Just keep trimming the cardboard till you think you have the curvature... and then add an extra margin.

The center of the ditch is more shallow than the sides. The ditch also has a rubber-like cover with grooves in it. I took advantage of those grooves to help center my 1x6" birch stock.

In the end, i used some velcro to keep the ribs from moving too much. Then i got some 1x1 stock and attached 2 templates to each other-thats when i realized how far off i really was from having a curve-hugging bottom _and_ a flat, level top. I settled for a mostly level top with the ribs making contact at the back and front. It doesn't move much and with the stock belts coming thru the holes, the platform is not going to become airborne if an accident happens on the street. 
http://members.roadfly.org/4thm3/platformH142.jpg

On the track, my 4-pt Schroth belts tie into the driver's side. Next event, i'll just pull the whole thing out.

Give me a few minutes & i'll shoot some pix of the revised ribs with the 'cross-beams'.



FlyingDutchMan said:


> I'll try fabing a couple and see how it goes. I think it will be tough to get a perfect mach, the pan is pretty uneven. I was thinking I would build the shelf with a ledge at hte fron side to keep stuff from sliding forwards and buy one of those elastic trunk nets like the 7 series have to hold stuff down.


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## biodan (Apr 9, 2003)

*rib cross beams*

here's a quick shot-










http:members.roadfly.org/4thm3/ribCrossBeam.jpg


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## biodan (Apr 9, 2003)

*try again*










http://members.roadfly.org/4thm3/ribCrossBeam.jpg


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## FlyingDutchMan (Jul 18, 2003)

*Here are the pics of the AutoPower bar in the car.*

The bar weighs 58pounds. Total install time was about 4 hours. This bar fits much tighter than expected. Really nice piece. It is a little on the heavy side, though.

It is two man job and takes a little trial and error. Be careful not to scratch up the doorsill it is easier to do than you might think given the mass of the hoop.

The main hoop was set in the car about 6 inches forward of the actual final resting spot agianst the bulked, then the kicker bars were slid on to the hoop and the whole complete bar was manuevered backwards into place. Getting the kicker bars to mount flush on the fender wells took some muscle.

Be sure to pull the carpet forward first, as it is so thick it won't allow you to move the hoop around because it won't sit low enough and bind on the headliner. Be carefull with the alarm sensor on the ceiling. Don't not remove this, it will be very tough the get back onto the headliner once the hoop is in place.

The mounting locations will not be totaly flush for the kicker bars on the fenders. So we drilled the holes and used the bolts to sinch it into place flush. An impact wrench is helpfull when doing this. Also make sure you open the trunk to let some air through so you don't get too hot working in the car.

Cut the carpet carefull around the bars' mounting points.

Overall this project was a pain in the A** because moving this thing around is awkward.


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## SteveMedina (Apr 4, 2003)

FDM....I need all the pictures you can muster.....especially the floor where it mounts.....I'd really appreciate it...

Dutch...also need to see how you mounted sub harness.....

you can just email em to me...if it makes it easier...

[email protected]


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## FlyingDutchMan (Jul 18, 2003)

SteveMedina said:


> FDM....I need all the pictures you can muster.....especially the floor where it mounts.....I'd really appreciate it...
> 
> Dutch...also need to see how you mounted sub harness.....
> 
> ...


Gimme 30 min


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