# I'm gonna bite the bullet.



## TimeOut (Jun 21, 2006)

After changing front door speakers for MB Quart RUA 213 and added a Basslink II Subwoofer in the trunk, I'm still not satisfied with the audio quality in my '03 E39 non-DSP.

Don't get me wrong, the audio improved a lot but, after I drove my wife's brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee with Boston Acoustics Premium Sound, I realized how ****ty the E39 still sounds and I got really depressed. :bawling: 

I suspect that the midrange domes in the front doors are screwing up the audio and since, there is no replacement for them, I'm gonna bite the bullet and install a 4 channel quality Amp, replace rear speakers for MB Quart DSF 213 and leave the ****ty mid range domes in the front doors disconnected.


I'm looking at a Zapco 4 channel Amp. I like the model DC360.4 because of the DSP feature. I got few questions for the experts:

1. Can I connect the OEM non-DSP Head Unit balanced outputs directly to the DC360.4 balance inputs? or do I need to install something in between?

2. How do I wire the Amp to the car speaker? Can I use Tap-in connectors on the already there harness? Are there connectors I can buy and not use Tap-ins?

3. Does anybody know where I can buy a Zapco DC360.4? There is no Zapco dealer here in Houston and Zapco website doesn't sell this one.

Thanks


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

TimeOut said:


> After changing front door speakers for MB Quart RUA 213 and added a Basslink II Subwoofer in the trunk, I'm still not satisfied with the audio quality in my '03 E39 non-DSP.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the audio improved a lot but, after I drove my wife's brand new Jeep Grand Cherokee with Boston Acoustics Premium Sound, I realized how ****ty the E39 still sounds and I got really depressed. :bawling:
> 
> ...


1. You can cut a Symbilink cable in half and connect it directly.

2. There are no adapters. I wouldn't use taps either. I'd cut the wires loose from the now-un-needed amp connector and connect them directly to the passive xovers for the MB Quarts, which you will now need to use.

3. No dealers, eh? That's too bad...

When you get it hooked up, you will want to cut the 250 area a lot and boost the 90-120 area some for those midbass speakers. The enclosures are boosting the midbass and then rolling off fast.

Might I suggest losing the Basslink, ignoring the rears, and getting a real sub to run off of the back half of the DC360?


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## TimeOut (Jun 21, 2006)

el_duderino said:


> 1. You can cut a Symbilink cable in half and connect it directly.
> 
> 2. There are no adapters. I wouldn't use taps either. I'd cut the wires loose from the now-un-needed amp connector and connect them directly to the passive xovers for the MB Quarts, which you will now need to use.
> 
> ...


Thanks Duderino. I knew you will answer the questions :thumbup:

I got few more:

1. Does the Symbilink cable come with the Zapco DC360.4 Amp?

2. I don't plan to keep my E39 for very long time and since noboby pays you for the mods, I would probably restore the OEM Amp before I sell the car, so I can use the Zapco DC360.4 on my next BMW which will probably come with ****ty audio system as well. Is the use of Taps suitable for my case (after disconnecting the OEM Amp of course) or you don't recommend the use Taps at all?

3. Since, I don't seem to be able to find a Zapco dealer here, I'm looking at another brands that offer Amps with balanced inputs. What about the JL Audio 300/4 or A4300? They don't have DSP but, I could use a JL CleanSweep CL441dsp or Fosgate 3sixty.1, right?

Thanks


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## el_duderino (Aug 1, 2005)

TimeOut said:


> Thanks Duderino. I knew you will answer the questions :thumbup:
> 
> I got few more:
> 
> ...


Happy to help.

1. No, it doesn't. What a pisser. First order of DC amps we got, they were backordered on cables, and we had thousands of dollars of gear that we couldn't install 

2. I don't like them in speaker connections, and it's not much more work to just re-connect everything when you sell it. But it could work.

3. In my experience, you need an EQ that you can control. The issue is NOT the response curve coming out the HU, it's the need for equalizing the speaker in the OEM locaitons (ESPECIALLY the door chambers).

The JL is auto-adjusting, you can't control it, and the RF 360.1 is a very bare-bones EQ from a user-adjustable POV (if I can be allowed to comment on these pieces). The 360.2 is a flexible user-adjustable EQ, and it's also more money than I think you need to spend to get good results.

The Zapco DC sounds tons better than the JL amps in my experience.

Check your PMs.


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