# Sqeeekkkyyy brakes (help)!!!



## M3toocool (Dec 18, 2003)

hello i have a 95 M3 and i have front slotted brembo rotors and aftermakert pads and by rears are stock but my front brakes squik like crazy when i slow down real slow and its realy embaring these pads are kinda new but what can i do about the noise.
thanks
~Brandon


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## The HACK (Dec 19, 2001)

1) Ditch the rotors.

2) What kind of pads?


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## M3toocool (Dec 18, 2003)

they are textar front pads these squik less then the pagid ones i had before. the stop good but are still loud. Someone told me its becuase there performance brakes and it will be like that forever unless you get oem pads.
??


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

M3toocool said:


> they are textar front pads these squik less then the pagid ones i had before. the stop good but are still loud. Someone told me its becuase there performance brakes and it will be like that forever unless you get oem pads.
> ??


Yep... more agressive pads tend to be noisier than OEM pads.


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## Mantic6t9 (Jan 13, 2004)

I would go with a solid rotor unless you just like them because of the look. They are more prone to cracking. If i were looking for a nice quiet and great performing pad i'd choose the Axxis Ultimates. Great street/autoX pad. They also dust much less the a stock pad.


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## MOTRSPRT (Jan 14, 2004)

The HACK said:


> 1) Ditch the rotors.
> 
> 2) What kind of pads?


In my experience, it's not the rotor's fault for squeaking. It's the actual pad's inside each caliper that are squeaking. They're not squeaking on the rotor, but inside the caliper. Have some sort of "stop squeak" put on the backside of each pad (not the braking side, which is obvious...), and then take it easy for a few miles while they sort of "bed-in" again. This was the case on my 00 Dakota whose stock rotors warped, so I replaced with cross-drilled rotors. The squeak was only prevalent at slower speeds, but very high pitched. So, some "stop squeak" was applied and the squeking is 100% gone.
My 300ZX TT has had cross-drilled rotors since almost the day I bought it in 1998, and it has NEVER squeaked. 
Take a look at ALL newer sportbikes. Every single one has cross-drilled rotors--every one of them. The only ones that squeak are the ones that have installed metal pads for higher performance braking, which is only good on a race track.
This is a cheaper route to try first before you go and replace everything you've already replaced at least once.
Good luck.


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

MOTRSPRT said:


> In my experience, it's not the rotor's fault for squeaking. It's the actual pad's inside each caliper that are squeaking. They're not squeaking on the rotor, but inside the caliper. Have some sort of "stop squeak" put on the backside of each pad (not the braking side, which is obvious...), and then take it easy for a few miles while they sort of "bed-in" again. This was the case on my 00 Dakota whose stock rotors warped, so I replaced with cross-drilled rotors. The squeak was only prevalent at slower speeds, but very high pitched. So, some "stop squeak" was applied and the squeking is 100% gone.
> My 300ZX TT has had cross-drilled rotors since almost the day I bought it in 1998, and it has NEVER squeaked.
> Take a look at ALL newer sportbikes. Every single one has cross-drilled rotors--every one of them. The only ones that squeak are the ones that have installed metal pads for higher performance braking, which is only good on a race track.
> This is a cheaper route to try first before you go and replace everything you've already replaced at least once.
> Good luck.


1) It's never good to speak for THE HACK b/c he knows more about this stuff than any 10 normal humans like myself. But I will offer a possible explanation for his brief comments anyway and let him come and beat me with a stick if he feels the need. I know for certain that he understands very well what causes brakes to squeal. He explained it to me.

He probably wasn't suggesting the rotors were contributing to the squeak problem. He was suggesting that cross drilled rotors are a bad idea b/c they are prone to cracking and failing. Unless the rotor is manufactured with the ventilation holes present in the forging or casting process (don't remember which is accurate here), the drilling procedure allows the brakes to crack around the holes when they are under stress. The Hack experienced this problem personally. If you want to change the rotors on an e36 M3, you are probably better off going with the Euro spec floating rotors than with cross drilled.

2) Some performance pads squeal no matter how much gunk you put on the back of them. Some pads that are rated for "street/light track" are going to squeal. Track pads almost certainly will.


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## MOTRSPRT (Jan 14, 2004)

> 1) It's never good to speak for THE HACK b/c he knows more about this stuff than any 10 normal humans like myself.


Okay, that's cool. Still feeling my way around this forum.

But, like I said in the post, with a lot of performance pads (especially the metal ones) the brakes will squeal.

I haven't seen any later post from the original poster about what he found, so we may never know if he fixed/identified the problem or not.

On the note of replacement rotors, after researching them lately I will probably go with the Euro full-floaters instead of cross-drilled. Not because I'm afraid of X-drilled cracking, but I like the idea of a full-floater. They seem to dissipate heat greater than a "fixed" rotor.

Thanks,


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