# Another Newb**Ordered Feb 28** Break In ??



## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Hi all,

I ordered the "d" Feb 28th ED 3rd week of May. This is my first BMW but have had VW diesels before, last time I had a gas powered car was 14 years ago

Appreciate if one of you veteran BMW drivers can shed some light on how to Break In our new 335d's?? and how long does it last the break in period I mean??

I plan to change oil half way then recommended or regular service myself and go to the dealer for regular service.


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## Snipe656 (Oct 22, 2009)

Everyone has very different opinions on this. I think the owners manual says some on it and do believe you can download that from BMW website. I personally just got in it and drove it. Which is the same thing I have done in all my cars, which all saw many years and miles of use without issues I'd ever contribute to break in methods.


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## rmorin49 (Jan 7, 2007)

Just don't drag race it for the first 1K miles. You will be fine. I can already tell that my engine is running better as I just went over 1100 miles and the weather is getting warmer.


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## Penguin (Aug 31, 2003)

FWIW, here's something I've posted several places in the past in response to similar questions:

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The entire point of break-in is to let the parts themselves do the final "machining" and wear themselves into the best possible fit/mating, without causing any damage while doing it. As machining technology gets better and better, break-in becomes less important... but final "wear-in" is still important, IMHO. You want to wear down the high-points (on a microscopic scale) without doing it so fast or long that your generate localized heat which causes a "microweld/micro galling," leaving a micro pit or bump. As such, very short bursts toward redline (not under load) actually will help "wear-in" the parts. Short burst of acceleration also help, e.g., accelerate for a couple of seconds and then back off every once in a while while doing the break-in. What hurts during break-in are either sustained running at high speed/load, or running at a constant load/speed for a sustained period of time. With different speeds and loads, different areas (again on a microscopic level), tend to be the "high spots." Think of it as trying to hone the parts together as you would sharpen a knife, with the varying speeds and loads as you move the knife to different angles, but not wanting to get the knife blade hot.

Understanding what you are trying to do is more important than slavishly following the rules ("Gee, I just hit 1,000 miles so I can redline it!). Think of the first 1,000 miles as being similar to a ten minute "limbering up" prior to exercise... start easy the first few miles and gradually work up to normal running over the first 1,000.

Will disaster come if you don't do this? Probably not. But doing it will increase the odds that you have a trouble free engine that goes 200,000 miles, vs. one that has a bearing or other problem at 75,000 - 100,000.


Note: When I talk of hitting redline, I'm talking of a very, very short burst of the engine while it is not under heavy load, e.g., a throttle "blip" in neutral or during a lightly loaded upshift. The "couple of seconds acceleration" I mention is under load while driving and should not ever be near the redline of the engine while breaking it in.

Some people propose to "break it in hard," suggesting that this gives more power. Well, there is some truth to that... but not in the way many people think. Most engines (if maintained) will actually hit their peak horsepower during their life somewhere around 30,000 to 50,000 miles. This is the point when parts and clearnaces have worn to the point that friction is reduced; however, not to the point where compression or other power-robbing things happen. So, if you break it in hard, yes, you might see a tad more power. But that's because you have shortened the life of the engine considerably with excess wear aging it prematurely.

P.S. for those who say engines nowadays are already "broken-in" as they come from the factory due to more precise machining, I did an oil analysis on my Z4 from new. In the first 2,000 miles there was approximately five times the wear metals as in the second 2,000 miles.

P.P.S. I also am a believer in an oil change after the break-in period if you are not leasing and plan to keep the vehicle for more than five years or 100,000 miles.
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As with oil questions, everypne will have a different opinion. But, if I am right, then it is wise to do it. If I am wrong, no harm will come from following it as a break-in procedure. While not statistically significant, I would note that I have used this procedure on every vehicle I have owned, and none of them ever needed top-off oil between oil changes, including one on which I put 198,000 miles.


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## autoJeff (Oct 1, 2009)

I've also read, maybe in one of penguin's posts, that the auto transmission really does benefit from a reasonable break-in procedure. While maintained diesel engines have a reputation for going a few hundred thousand miles, auto transmissions do not.

Brake linings and tires take a few hundred miles to break in.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

DZLMAN, welcome onboard.

All you crazy Canooks buying white BMW's are gonna lose them in the snow!:rofl::rofl::rofl:


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Actually, that can not be true, as they are all down here in South Florida based on the number of cars with Quebec license plates I see in the winter!!!!:rofl::rofl::rofl:


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Flyingman said:


> DZLMAN, welcome onboard.
> 
> All you crazy Canooks buying white BMW's are gonna lose them in the snow!:rofl::rofl::rofl:


Hahaha thanks Flyingman, yeah white is the "IN" color north of Niagara these days, polar bears, go figure, and yes lots of "d"s in Quebec...


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks to Penquin for a nice write up and others for your comments. Point taken it makes sense to drive across various rpms at variable speeds for short time so moving parts settle in thru the entire rev range. Kinda creates the character of an engine.


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## EYE4SPEED (Apr 19, 2010)

BMW will redline your car before it leaves the factory...


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## DnA Diesel (Jul 31, 2010)

DZLMAN said:


> Hahaha thanks Flyingman, yeah white is the "IN" color north of Niagara these days, polar bears, go figure, and yes lots of "d"s in Quebec...


DM, Penguin is bang-on with his advice. I not only did that with my D, but also my 2001 Jetta TDI, which now has 260,000km on the clock and still its first clutch.

You'll enjoy the heck out of the D when it comes. Guaranteed to put a smile on your face every time you drive it! 

Regards
D.


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Thanks DnA!!

Didn't know u were a member here as well. I'm atifvw @ tdiclub.com, yes looking forward to it. Its on board cargo ship Fidelio that can be tracked at www.marinetraffic.com scheduled to offload in Halifax, NS on May 10th and then via train to Toronto. Atif.


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

EYE4SPEED said:


> BMW will redline your car before it leaves the factory...


Good to know, thx.


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## DC-IT (Sep 27, 2009)

Congrats DZLMAN & welcome.

I did like Snipe656 and have driven over 45,000 KM on my D since Nov 2009.
Your M Sport package is going to look great in Alpine White. Too bad that wan't available when I ordered mine.


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Thx DC, yes M-Sport should look good in Alpine white. Have searched the net for pictures but didn't find any Sedans I do see coupes.....I guess Snipe656 suggestion is similar in a way to what Penguin is saying, normal city driving uses all kinds or rpms and signal light to signal light u kind of end up doing short bursts etc. As rmorin49 suggests as long as we don't drag race the first few thousand miles/kms we should be good.


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## firstbimmer (May 25, 2006)

My 335d test drive at the dealer i bought from was a msport loaded alpine white. It was beautiful! If I wasn't going to be driving so many miles each month I might have gone that route instead of space gray but couldn't resist how easy sg is to keep looking clean, plus I'm coming from a space gray e92 and I loved the color. You will love your alpine white!


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## DnA Diesel (Jul 31, 2010)

Atif, just make sure the engine is warmed up before getting into the "rumble pedal". During the break-in, I used a fair bit of throttle once the engine was warm, but never enough to hit the shift-down button. The important point about break-ins is that any higher loads should be temporary, with a notable break between them to allow parts to equalize temperature/stresses before the next application of higher load.

I found the break-in of the 335d much easier to tolerate than the Jetta because I needed less throttle to get the D moving quickly.

Cheers
D

p.s. Yes, firstbimmer, I love the SG. I had a jet black E34 540i which looked amazing for about 10 minutes after finishing a wash and hand wax, but between washes...yikes. The AW does look amazing too, though. I'd consider an AW 535d in a couple of years when the time comes.


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## SixShotEspress0 (Jan 25, 2011)

penguin thanks for the write up. This is by far the best info I have found. I think Iw ill spend alot more time in this forum as I have seen good camaraderie and very little flame wars.


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## Penguin (Aug 31, 2003)

SixShotEspress0 said:


> penguin thanks for the write up.


You're quite welcome, I'm glad you find it useful.


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## DZLMAN (Mar 1, 2011)

Unbelievable.......it took 11 days for my D to cross Atlantic 29 April to May 10th off loaded in Halifax, NS, Canada, its been showing "On Rail" for the last 4 days and ETA at dealer May 26th!!!!!!!! Halifax to Toronto is approx 1600 kms [1000 miles] not happy, can't wait........10 more days to go....


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