# Ask the Autogeek! Question & Answer Thread



## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

At Autogeek, we specialize in car care and auto detailing. Our courteous staff of technical advisers consists of detailing enthusiasts and professional detailers and our team of car care experts are happy to answer your questions! We'll help you find auto care solutions so that you can achieve the ultimate show car shine.

As a forum sponsor, we would like to offer our guidance and assistance and answer any questions that you may have. Introducing "Ask The Autogeek!" By posting questions and answers in this thread, this will create an archive of valuable information for other forum members and guests to see, so you'll be helping others as well!

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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Just a reminder that we are here to help out with any detailing questions or questions about our products that you may have. We also have Live Help available during business hours where you can speak with a product expert in real time.

http://www.autogeek.net/auto-detailing-live-help.html


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## Hakko (Jul 9, 2008)

Jason,

As I posted in another thread on this board, someone left a little calling card on the fender of my X3. I was able to remove the paint stripe with clay, and now I'd like to repair the damage to the finish. I have a sample of Wolfgang TSR (thanks for that!), and since I am a total noob, I'd love to get step by step directions for using it. I'll be doing it by hand. The car goes in for service tomorrow, and the next day I should have time to do a complete wash and get to work.

Thanks!


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Hakko said:


> Jason,
> 
> As I posted in another thread on this board, someone left a little calling card on the fender of my X3. I was able to remove the paint stripe with clay, and now I'd like to repair the damage to the finish. I have a sample of Wolfgang TSR (thanks for that!), and since I am a total noob, I'd love to get step by step directions for using it. I'll be doing it by hand. The car goes in for service tomorrow, and the next day I should have time to do a complete wash and get to work.
> 
> Thanks!


Hi Hakko,

You can try the product by hand, since it is a tight area. Use a microfiber applicator to get a a lil more bite and follow up with a finishing polish to remove any haze. Then wax or seal.

Just keep in mind that best results will always be obtained with a machine polisher whenever possible. For instance, the Porter Cable 7424 is very effective at removing paint defects when used at 4000-6000 orbits per minute. It doesn't do much if any correction at the lower speed setting. The slowest speed setting on the PC is 2500 orbits per minute. Now you can see why doing it by hand isn't as effective as using a machine. You really have to get your hand moving really fast to generate the heat and friction that is needed to level paint and break down the abrasives in the product. Even though you are a noob to paint polishing, I would definitely consider using a machine.

The best place to start would be to watch the Wolfgang video on our site. The video shows how to use the product with a Porter Cable polisher and you can also use a Flex XC 3401VRG polisher with Wolfgang Swirl Remover too. Here is a link to the page that has the video.

Wolfgang Car Care Products and How To Video


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## Hakko (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. After washing, polishing, and sealing, the area looks good enough for the moment. I'm going to hold off stumping for an ROB for the moment, although I'm pretty sure I will at some point. I notice that you carry the Meg's 110 polisher as well. What's your view on that as against the PC?


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

The G110 is a bit stronger than the PC (6700 OPM vs. 6000 OPM, with a stronger motor - the PC will bog down if you apply significant pressure whereas the G110 will not bog nearly as much). However, neither come close to the Flex XC3401 (9600 OPM and will not bog down at all).


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Just a little bump to remind you guys that we are here when you need us.


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## Mynoles1 (Dec 28, 2006)

Just bought a new 328i, Titanium Silver. I obviously want to take care of it and have been reading on your site and these boards about Klasse AIO and the sealant glaze kit. I'm an old-school wax guy, so this synthetic concept is rather new to me.

1) Does this 2-step process take the place of waxing the vehicle, or does that factor into this somewhere as well? 

2) I see Klasse and Zaino referenced a lot. Which is better in the synthetics arena, your opinion and why?

3) In doing the wheels with Klasse/Zaino AIO, does the glaze need to be used as well, or just the AIO?

Thanks


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Mynoles1 said:


> Just bought a new 328i, Titanium Silver. I obviously want to take care of it and have been reading on your site and these boards about Klasse AIO and the sealant glaze kit. I'm an old-school wax guy, so this synthetic concept is rather new to me.
> 
> 1) Does this 2-step process take the place of waxing the vehicle, or does that factor into this somewhere as well?
> 
> ...


1) Does this 2-step process take the place of waxing the vehicle, or does that factor into this somewhere as well?

*Applying a wax on top of your sealant is optional, but not necessary. The sealant provides superior protection and a wax topper can enhance the final look if desired.
*
2) I see Klasse and Zaino referenced a lot. Which is better in the synthetics arena, your opinion and why?

*Klasse is an acrylic sealant with excellent durability and is among the best ever. Application is easy if you apply thin, even coats and the shine is bright and reflective. *

3) In doing the wheels with Klasse/Zaino AIO, does the glaze need to be used as well, or just the AIO?

*I would use the Sealant Glaze too for added durability.*


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## Mynoles1 (Dec 28, 2006)

Thanks autogeek. I will place my order later today for the Klasse products.

I have another question, non-BMW related, for my wife;s vehicle. She has a 2003 PT Cruiser. Not sure if you have heard of this before, but *MANY* of the 2003 models had a problem with the shipping-tape applied to the bumpers while in transit. These are the dark gray bumpers used on all colors at the time and not color-matched with the vehicle.

This tape caused significant discoloration to the gray, leaving very "tape-like" white marks along the length of the bumpers - which surfaced well after the vehicle was new. It is almost white now on those tape spots.

Do you think there is a product made that might help with those, given the plastic material of the bumper covers, the age, etc. ?? Chrysler won't re-paint them and while I don't expect perfection, I thought maybe you guys may know of something.

Thanks


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Mynoles1 said:


> Thanks autogeek. I will place my order later today for the Klasse products.
> 
> I have another question, non-BMW related, for my wife;s vehicle. She has a 2003 PT Cruiser. Not sure if you have heard of this before, but *MANY* of the 2003 models had a problem with the shipping-tape applied to the bumpers while in transit. These are the dark gray bumpers used on all colors at the time and not color-matched with the vehicle.
> 
> ...


Have you tried anything yet to remove the marks? I would suggest trying the Klasse AIO in a small area by hand.


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## Mynoles1 (Dec 28, 2006)

Yes, I tried several OTC products that didn't do anything. Would claying help before AIO, or is that not advised to this type of bumper material?


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

Mynoles1 said:


> Yes, I tried several OTC products that didn't do anything. Would claying help before AIO, or is that not advised to this type of bumper material?


Yes, you can trying using the clay first before polishing.


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## Kgolf31 (Sep 25, 2008)

Quick question for you guys!

I just got tint done awhile ago, and my windows are now starting to fog up more often. I am going to get this product, but I need to know one thing......

Is this stuff safe to use on tint? Tint is on the interior side of the window. I just wanna double check that this stuff is ok for that before purchasing it........

http://autogeek.net/auto-glass-defogger.html


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## vrmoreno3 (Apr 15, 2007)

*Cleaning the far side of the rim*

I just got my 530 and in trying to clean the far side of the wheel, my fingers are getting cut on the metal dust protector (I think that it what it is) it is real close to the wheel. Anyway, what kind of tool is recommended for this job? I am currently using a sponge and my brush from Bav Auto) diameter is too big.


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

That product by Glass Science is intended to be used on windshields mainly. It is not recommended to use it on tinted surfaces.

vrmoreno3 - EZ Detail Brush and a Lugnut brush are what you need!

http://www.autogeek.net/ezdebrfca.html

http://www.autogeek.net/lug-nut-brush.html


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## Abel1337 (Nov 20, 2008)

Can you reccomend a place for me to learn advanced techniques? Thanks


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

What exactly are you looking to learn?


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## csmeance (Dec 10, 2007)

I have a question for you guys, Brian Bryce (you may know him) just detailed my 7 and he saw how horrible the paint was. Just to give you a quick synopsis, 10 passes of 3M extra cut compound on a wool pad and rotatory + 2 passes of SIP didn't do much to get rid of the scratches and other RID's. Besides getting a repaint of the car, is there any type of glaze or filler I can use to help minimize the defects the previous owner put in nd then top it with a sealant like optiseal or Zaino Clear seal?


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## autogeek (Jul 24, 2008)

csmeance said:


> I have a question for you guys, Brian Bryce (you may know him) just detailed my 7 and he saw how horrible the paint was. Just to give you a quick synopsis, 10 passes of 3M extra cut compound on a wool pad and rotatory + 2 passes of SIP didn't do much to get rid of the scratches and other RID's. Besides getting a repaint of the car, is there any type of glaze or filler I can use to help minimize the defects the previous owner put in nd then top it with a sealant like optiseal or Zaino Clear seal?


Was any wetsanding attempted?

That would be my approach. A glaze simply will not do anything for the paint in terms of hiding defects if that many passes of 3M didn't touch them.


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