# Best Dash Treatment



## Hooray! (Dec 20, 2009)

Looking for some input on the best interior plastic / rubber treatments to use especially on the dash. I plan to keep the car long term and know using the wrong product can look good short term but do long term damage to the materials. I did not see a direct post on this subject and have an '02 530i black on black (interior shot below). Car only has 60k on it but was a FL car and black (can you say HOT), interior / seats are mint, lightly used.

Just clayed and waxed it using mother's clay bar / detail lubricant and carnuba, thinking of switching to another wax too as I'm almost out of the mothers (which has worked out ok for me but I know there is better).


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## ronkh (May 11, 2007)

There are so many different products on the market for dashs etc.
First thing is you need to really think about what you want. ie. cleaning ability, shine, dull etc.

Same thing for waxes, so many variables. Look, length of protection, covering marring.


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## cali311soca (Oct 24, 2009)

Make sure not to ignore your leather seats. Be sure to clean and condition them often. Don't want to see those beauties start cracking. For the dash, I just use armor all every time I clean my car.


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## Got_Leather (Sep 14, 2009)

I like to use Optimum Protectant Plus on the console/dash area because its a low gloss finish with great UV Protection. As for the leather seats, I use Leatherique Prestine Clean to maintain them.


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## Hooray! (Dec 20, 2009)

Got_Leather said:


> I like to use Optimum Protectant Plus on the console/dash area because its a low gloss finish with great UV Protection. As for the leather seats, I use Leatherique Prestine Clean to maintain them.


I prefer the low gloss finish and the UV protection makes sense seeing how I'm sure it was exposed to plenty over the last 8 years. Where is the best place to purchase the Optimum PP and the Leatherique.

I had some McGuires leather cleaner / conditioner wipes so hit them with that last weekend but that is more of a surface treatment. Maybe that is all you really want when the stock finish is still very much intact...


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## csmeance (Dec 10, 2007)

303 Aerospace protectant is one of the best protectants out there! You can use it on rubber, Vinyl and Leather materials without a problem. At first it will leave it semi-gloss finish. You will need to wipe off any excess after a hour and it'll be nice and matte. 

As far as leather, leatherique is the best thing to use!


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

A respected detailer, dboy11, told me: "Most all leather today is top coated with a clear. Leather today is only top died meaning the color is sprayed on rather than socking the leather to die, its a cost reduction measure. then its top coated to keep the die from rubbing quicly and protect it. That said good regular maintenance cleaning and protection is all that is needed..."

It's not the first time I've heard it, but dboy owns an E39, or at least used to and he's been detailing a long, long, long time. :thumbup: I'd take his advice.


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## Hooray! (Dec 20, 2009)

POof540i said:


> A respected detailer, dboy11, told me: "Most all leather today is top coated with a clear. Leather today is only top died meaning the color is sprayed on rather than socking the leather to die, its a cost reduction measure. then its top coated to keep the die from rubbing quicly and protect it. That said good regular maintenance cleaning and protection is all that is needed..."
> 
> It's not the first time I've heard it, but dboy owns an E39, or at least used to and he's been detailing a long, long, long time. :thumbup: I'd take his advice.


Is he saying Leatherique too? I have heard the "top coat" leather comment before too. To be honest, I've used the McGuire's or Lexol cleaner / conditioner wipes only for their simplicity and to get something on the seats when I dont have lots of time, figure they are better then nothing.


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

I've used Leatherique Pristine Clean and Rejuvenater Oil. I felt that Pristine Clean left my seats with a nice finish and cleaned them up well. I also felt that the Rejuvenater Oil didn't do much to my seats, so now I only prefer to use Pristine Clean. That being said, the peeps above have given good advice on what to use to protect and condition your leather. If you're still so inclined, go ahead and try the Leatherique process and judge for yourself, you might like it.


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## fredderf4444 (Mar 9, 2009)

I love 303 Aerospace protectant. 

Use only a little, put it on, rub it in, wipe off for a nice matte finish. Excellent stuff

F


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## Greg Robinson (Jan 12, 2010)

I wanted to reply to this question, I am not a professional detail er but I have lots of experience with leather and now after 5 BMW"S all with leather, here is my way of doing it. When I hand wash my cars I use highly fabric softened bath towels to dry paint after wash, I use one of those just damp towels to wipe down all of my interior, I have never had an issue with leather or anything doing it this way, now my friend used a leather conditioner by BMW afterward and by following all the directions (I was there) that stuff changed the color of the leather to me it ruined it, it made it shiny and you could tell when you sat in the seat for months after ward, he is still mad about that, eventually by using my method the seats returned to there original color, If you but a BMW sunshade for the front windshield and you cover your wheel with a bath towel(color keyed of course) then there will never be problems with seats or dash. I prefer the dull look only.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

POof540i said:


> A respected detailer, dboy11, told me: "Most all leather today is top coated with a clear. Leather today is only top died meaning the color is sprayed on rather than socking the leather to die, its a cost reduction measure. then its top coated to keep the die from rubbing quicly and protect it. That said good regular maintenance cleaning and protection is all that is needed..."
> 
> It's not the first time I've heard it, but dboy owns an E39, or at least used to and he's been detailing a long, long, long time. :thumbup: I'd take his advice.


Thanks, for you kind words



Hooray! said:


> Is he saying Leatherique too? I have heard the "top coat" leather comment before too. To be honest, I've used the McGuire's or Lexol cleaner / conditioner wipes only for their simplicity and to get something on the seats when I don't have lots of time, figure they are better then nothing.


today's leather is clear coated but its a breathable product meaning that it can / will absorb liquids. Leatherique is a outstanding cleaner and protection product, what that means is it cleans deep, and the protection is not a short term thing. I used leatherique on my leather about once every three months, but I also clean and condition them every few week with Woolite and water to clean and Poorboys leather stuff to condition

Just like paint leather requires regular maintenance. Keep the leather clean and use an conditioner that is designed for leather either OTC or online. Remember that something is better than nothing.


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## Elk42 (Jan 29, 2008)

all this detailing talk and im itching to get back out there again. Will be getting my PC7424XP soon with some goodies and Spring is a long time away here in beautiful southern NJ!:thumbup:


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## Got_Leather (Sep 14, 2009)

POof540i said:


> I've used Leatherique Pristine Clean and Rejuvenater Oil. I felt that Pristine Clean left my seats with a nice finish and cleaned them up well. I also felt that the Rejuvenater Oil didn't do much to my seats, so now I only prefer to use Pristine Clean. That being said, the peeps above have given good advice on what to use to protect and condition your leather. If you're still so inclined, go ahead and try the Leatherique process and judge for yourself, you might like it.


If the Rejuvenator didn't do much to your seats it was either because they didn't need the full 2 step process or you didn't allow it to sit long enough. Also remember, the RO will loosen up the soiled areas and allow the Prestine Clean to fully remove them. To have the best results and the most cleaning capabilities you would use the RO first then finish with PC.

PC is great by itself but if your seats need the complete care, it's a 2 step process.

Here is a great write-up a close friend of mine did on Leatherique.


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

Got_Leather said:


> If the Rejuvenator didn't do much to your seats it was either because they didn't need the full 2 step process or you didn't allow it to sit long enough. Also remember, the RO will loosen up the soiled areas and allow the Prestine Clean to fully remove them. To have the best results and the most cleaning capabilities you would use the RO first then finish with PC.
> 
> PC is great by itself but if your seats need the complete care, it's a 2 step process.
> 
> Here is a great write-up a close friend of mine did on Leatherique.


Yeah, maybe things would have been different if I would have used RO first, but let me tell you what I did.

First, I prepped the seats by cleaning them with PC. My reasoning was, I wanted to have the seats as clean as possible so that RO would penetrate deeper and work more effectively. Maybe flawed logic, maybe not. :dunno:

Second, I applied RO, shut the windows closed and let it bake in the hot Southern Californian sun for two days!

Third, I used PC again to remove the RO residues left behind. I followed the instructions for removal to a T.

All in all, maybe I needed a second application of RO? The website recommends neglected seats be treated more than once for neglected seats. I don't think I was neglectful, but maybe the PO was. In any case, I absolutely love PC! That stuff is awesome. So the jury is still out in my case until I try it at least one more time.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

POof540i said:


> Yeah, maybe things would have been different if I would have used RO first, but let me tell you what I did.
> 
> First, I prepped the seats by cleaning them with PC. My reasoning was, I wanted to have the seats as clean as possible so that RO would penetrate deeper and work more effectively. Maybe flawed logic, maybe not. :dunno:
> 
> ...


What you did was OK in the process. It maybe that your seats are not in that bad a shape to start, and the Leatherique isn't going to change them that much. Leather dose take time to soften up, if you can remember your baseball glove, when it was new you had to apply coast of oil over weeks to get it soft and mold the pocket. Leather seats are about the same especially if they are older, you have to add back in the oils to the leather, one or two applications is not goint to accomplish that


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## Got_Leather (Sep 14, 2009)

Also remember, steam/heat are extremely important to the final result. If you are using the RO, no need to use the PC first. That's the same as sealing the paint/then polishing it. Next time, cover the seats with the RO in a light layer. Cover the seat with a trash bag and allow to sit outside or in the garage for a full day (24hrs). Then mist the PC onto the seats and dampen your MF towel with warm/hot water and wring out so its not soaked just damp then wipe away. Also using a leather brush helps with the cleaning process.


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## POof540i (Aug 17, 2007)

dboy11 said:


> What you did was OK in the process. It maybe that your seats are not in that bad a shape to start, and the Leatherique isn't going to change them that much. Leather dose take time to soften up, if you can remember your baseball glove, when it was new you had to apply coast of oil over weeks to get it soft and mold the pocket. Leather seats are about the same especially if they are older, you have to add back in the oils to the leather, one or two applications is not goint to accomplish that





Got_Leather said:


> Also remember, steam/heat are extremely important to the final result. If you are using the RO, no need to use the PC first. That's the same as sealing the paint/then polishing it. Next time, cover the seats with the RO in a light layer. Cover the seat with a trash bag and allow to sit outside or in the garage for a full day (24hrs). Then mist the PC onto the seats and dampen your MF towel with warm/hot water and wring out so its not soaked just damp then wipe away. Also using a leather brush helps with the cleaning process.


Thanks for the info guys. I'm sure it was just as informative to the OP as it was for me. Thanks again. :thumbup:


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## Hooray! (Dec 20, 2009)

Got_Leather said:


> Also remember, steam/heat are extremely important to the final result. If you are using the RO, no need to use the PC first. That's the same as sealing the paint/then polishing it. Next time, cover the seats with the RO in a light layer. Cover the seat with a trash bag and allow to sit outside or in the garage for a full day (24hrs). Then mist the PC onto the seats and dampen your MF towel with warm/hot water and wring out so its not soaked just damp then wipe away. Also using a leather brush helps with the cleaning process.


Say you have a brand new BMW, would this type of treatment soften the leather too much so long term they ended up loose? I've seen some leather seats that almost look over conditioned and then after sitting in them for 6 months they end up almost with "sags" where you butt was... right now, mine are pretty tight, just want to keep them that way and protect from UV vs. have a soft baseball glove, does this make sense?


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

Hooray! said:


> Say you have a brand new BMW, would this type of treatment soften the leather too much so long term they ended up loose? I've seen some leather seats that almost look over conditioned and then after sitting in them for 6 months they end up almost with "sags" where you butt was... right now, mine are pretty tight, just want to keep them that way and protect from UV vs. have a soft baseball glove, does this make sense?


Leatherique is not for new leather really, a good conditioner and proper cleaning is all you need

Leathrique is a restoration product more than anything, older leathers mainly or leather that needs deep cleaning


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