# 335d oil change



## Snipe656 (Oct 22, 2009)

Flyingman said:


> If I bring it in before 38k I should be eligible for the last oil service at 50k just prior to maintenance expires. Still debating what I'll do about extending this or not. Seems pricey.
> :dunno:


When I priced out the maintenance extension it was around $2k which when looking at cost of the service items that should fall between 50k-100k miles and dealer costs it really was not a bad deal. But with that said when looking at the costs of maintenance at an independent shop or doing it yourself then it looks really pricing for that extension.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

Well, it looks like I have 13k more miles to make that decision.

They quoted me a higher price. Basically I would only get about 26k more miles past the 50k, so what, two more oil changes, maybe a brake job and flush, some wipers, DEF refill. Not sure that is worth more than $2k.

The extended warranty is what I think would be the best insurance, but I haven't really analyzed that. That was around $3.5k for 2 more years and 50k more miles, whichever comes first.

I'll be hitting about 75k miles at 6 years, so hardly high miles.

I'd probably prefer to take the risk. That is $5.5k for 2 more years or 25k miles. So that becomes $0.22/mile or $7.5/day. Again, seems expensive to me.:yikes:


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## Snipe656 (Oct 22, 2009)

Flyingman said:


> Well, it looks like I have 13k more miles to make that decision.
> 
> They quoted me a higher price. Basically I would only get about 26k more miles past the 50k, so what, two more oil changes, maybe a brake job and flush, some wipers, DEF refill. Not sure that is worth more than $2k.
> 
> ...


Of course if you can't use up the entire 50k extra miles within the time allotted then the "expensive" or not aspect changes. I for one can easily rack the miles past my warranty end time given that I drive 43-45k miles a year.

Get price quotes for the extensions from other dealers. I found the ones recommended on these very forums to be TONS cheaper than local dealers and you end up with the EXACT same thing at the end of the day.


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## Flyingman (Sep 13, 2009)

I dropped my D off at the dealer today, 37,984 miles. 16 miles till due and I suppose next and last scheduled service will be due at 50,984 less 1,000 miles so 49,984!:rofl:

Regular service, oil and filter, they will replace rear brake pads, do the latest emissions recall (Campaign they call it!), and I'm having my wheels aligned for the first time even though I have no indication of a problem. I did have some higher outer wear on the first set of tires, but now I have the non-RFTs, so want to be sure I'm all straight now.

They gave me a Hertz rental, no BMW loaners:bawling: It's a Nissan Sentra, wow! Got on the freeway and started merging with traffic like I thought I still had my D. Realized what I was driving so just merged over the right lane and poked along so not to slow anybody up.:angel:

SA said it would be ready this afternoon. I should have made a bet with him.:rofl:

I might see it Tuesday next week, after the Memorial Holiday Weekend.

You folks have a nice weekend!:thumbup:


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## sterlinsmith (Dec 22, 2012)

I want to purchase a BMW 335D (E90) - 2011 Repair/Service Manual. I had my car into the dealer for service the other day and they told me no such animal was available. They told me the drivetrain was build by Bentley and they only have one copy of the manual... I want to change my oil more often than 13K miles, but I have no idea how to do it. I know the capacity, the oil type, and I'm very mechanical... but this car ain't my dad's Buick! It would be cool is someone who has a 335D would post a video here or on Youtube showing the process they follow to change oil on a 335D... any takers???


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## KeithS (Dec 30, 2001)

An oil change on most BMW's is too easy to bother with a video. You will need a 32mm socket for the oil cover (I had originally incorrectly stated 36mm, which is the size used on most other - older BMWs). You can get them from eBay (specifically for oil filters) for like $10. Get a filter kit from the dealer and 8 quarts of the correct oil (I also get this from the dealer because with my BMWCCA discount is the least expensive source). Start Draining the oil by the method of your choice either from the bottom via the drain plug or from the top using a topsider pump. While the oil is draining loosen the filter housing and let the oil drain down (it goes into the oil pan as well). After a few minutes remove the filter cover, note the position of the o-ring on the cover. Pull off the filter element, remove the o-ring. The oil filter kit will contain a new filter cover o-ring and a copper crush washer for the drain. Oil the new o-ring with engine oil, put it back on in the groove on the cover. Stick on the new filter element and screw the assembly back on. You may have to push down lightly to get the threads to catch. Put the new copper washer on the drain plug and install. Drain plug and oil filter cover is tightened to 18 ft/lbs. Put your 8 quarts back in and your good to go.


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## sterlinsmith (Dec 22, 2012)

*Thanks...*

This doesn't sound like it could be any easier! Thanks for the tips...


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## Dpcom (Dec 27, 2012)

*335d. Dyi oil change.*

1-4-13,,,,re: Oil change 335d. I found info on google search or YouTube search sorry don't recall which...pretty simple though. Tools needed 17mm socket for drain plug and 32mm socket for filter nut. Oil 8 qts 5w30 castrol pro synth if cost around $10.00 qt filter bmw pn. 11-42-7-788-460 set $10.00 .. includes a new drain plug crush washer and new O ring... Oil filter top cap O ring to be replaced from its cap groove... 335d has no spare so therefore no included jack, will need a " floor" jack using the body jack pads under the doors front and rear one each..Run engine until warmed up not after a 100 mile high speed run as the oil can be over 250degrees ... First step .jack up car and support on jack stands high enough to slide under on your "creeper",,,, Use big enough pan to hold the 8 qts of hot oil, say 3 to 5 gal size... Locate drain plug under a small trapdoor left of center line under engine I'm not sure if its held closed with a screw or small nut or bolt open the trapdoor and using the 17mm socket to loosen drain plug use much caution as pan is aluminum, Drain plug is tight at 18 lbs torque, plug opening torque may not be a good hand tight closing torque estimate...
Oil filter is located under hood right side top has a 32mm plastic nut/cap securing an element type filter bi directional no correct way to install just fit back into filter canister and carefully screw the cap with its new O ring installed in the O ring groove to 18 lbs torque...NOTE...lift out element slowly to let old oil drain into filter canister...use plenty of shop rags paper towels... Oil is very black black and full of carbon and metal it will stain clothing skin etc,,... and it is not good to get on skin so use caution. Try a Bimmerfest search as well...I'm too old to go crawling around on the ground any more so I don't mind the $150.00 fee which would include the DEF some dealer charge an extra$50.00 fee for the DEF check and install. Dealer will also do the tire pressure check, now a fed law to be checked and recorded when ever a maintenance event is performed no exceptions as to whom performs this maint, besides its a good idea for today's high road speeds, no more saying my tire blew out so sorry I wrecked you...my lawyer will be in touch with you...to see your records...


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## KeithS (Dec 30, 2001)

A couple of comments on the previous post. A set of inexpensive Rhino ramps is much easier than jacking the car up and using jackstands to access the drain plug. A topsider pump which sucks the oil using the dispstick tube (at least we D owners still have one) is easier still. Using my Mityvac pump I can change the oil in less than 15 minutes, all by just opening the hood. 

Also do check with your dealer on the price of oil. Better to bring the business to them. In Nov 2012 at the local BMW dealer the oil for the Diesel had a list of $8.15 with a net of $6.60 per quart (with my BMWCCA discount). 

If you want to try the Mityvac, they are all built with a defective top seal. If you buy one you will need to pull off the top cover, clean out all the grease they use to try and make a seal, and reseal using silicone gasket maker. Once done it works properly. Also the 8 quart model holds a little less than 8 quarts before the overfill valve kicks in. It is necessary to take some used oil out of the Mityvac halfway though to fully empty the oil pan. I am using the model that can empty or fill (has a reversing valve) so is easy. Be sure to use the smaller diameter tube extension down the dipstick (someone tried to use the larger diameter tube and it got stuck). Finally if you have the model that can also empty, only empty through the larger primary tube, and do not try to empty though the smaller extension tube. Due to the pressure of emptying it will get disconnected and you will end up with a mess.


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## ChasR (Aug 29, 2012)

My two cents on the tire rotation issue.

The principal reason for not rotating the tires is that it adversely affects handling. After 5000 miles, the tires have taken a set, the fronts having rounded edges and the rears having square edges, especially the outside edge. If you rotate the tires the square edged tires in the front will have a bit more bite than the rears and the car will be more prone oversteer at the limit, something most manufacturers try to avoid. It makes less difference in cars that have a computer to save you, but rotating the tires will reduce the "limit". If you drive the d like an economy car, go ahead and rotate. If you drive it like the ultimate driving machine it is, don't.


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## Dpcom (Dec 27, 2012)

*Bmw 335d tire rotation... NOT!!*

1-9-13' per the tire information posted in the drivers door jam there are two different tire sizes shown in the "sports" equipped 335d's, therefore one must not rotate the tires. Adult!! car owners would know this!


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## ChasR (Aug 29, 2012)

Most of the ds out there aren't Sport models, so for them the questin is valid. It's assumed that we're talking about non Sport models when it comes to tire rotation, because it would take a real DA to rotate staggered tires and I must say, there doesn't appear to be any of those on this forum.


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