# New pads won't fit over new rotors - 2000 323Ci



## dgallant (Feb 29, 2008)

I started replacing the brakes on my 2000 323Ci today. I ordered this brake package from Turner Motorsport's website:

E46 323i/Ci Brake Package
Part #: E46323BRAKEPACK 
Applications: 1999 - 2000 (E46) 

Got the front driver side under way, but after replacing the pads, wear sensor and mounting the new rotor, I can't get the caliper assembly over the rotor. The piston is compressed all the way from what I can tell, but I need about another 1/4 inch in clearance for the pads to fit over the rotor. The numbers on the packing slip match with those on the rotors/pads boxes.

Has anyone run into this before with Turner brake packages? Everything I've read seems rather straight forward.

Any suggestions?


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## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

Hm. Weird. You sure you compressed the pistons?

Can you compare the part numbers of the rotors and pads with the parts system, www.realoem.com (enter last seven of your VIN and look for BRAKE system).

I ordered the same kit from Turner for my 330 and everything went on fine.


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## Fast Bob (Jun 4, 2004)

Did you use a C-clamp to compress the piston ?


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## wag-zhp (Apr 8, 2004)

+1 on what was said above. When the piston is fully compressed into the caliper the backing plate of the new pad will be nearly flush with the caliper. If it is, they may have sent you the wrong rotors. Double check all of the part numbers, and make sure they are not for a 330/328. I don't recall off hand if 330 rotors are thicker than 323/325 rotors, but I know for a fact that they are larger in diameter.


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## dgallant (Feb 29, 2008)

Thanks for the replies!

I just crossed referenced part numbers on realOEM.com and the rotors look right. I compared them to my old rotors also and they looked to be the same thickness and circumference.

The pad numbers don't seem right though. I got PBR XBG Low Semi-Met pads with the brake package.

Weird thing is, if they're not the right pads, they sure seem to fit in the calipers perfectly (except for the fact that there isn't enough clearance between the inside and the outside pad). It just looks like the pads are too thick.

I used a pad spreader tool from Autozone to compress the piston (cranked it as far as it would go) and it seems like the piston is fully compressed, but I'll try it tomorrow with a C clamp to make sure.


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## dgallant (Feb 29, 2008)

Got it. It was as everyone suspected, I hadn't compressed the piston all the way. After figuring that out this morning I was able to finish the 3 remaining wheels fairly quickly. 

I do have another question though. I removed some break fluid from the main reservoir prior to starting on things so that compressing the piston would not cause an overflow. I just started the engine, pumped the brakes, turned off the engine and added some of the fluid back into the reservoir (will get the brakes bled this week). I did this twice and the second time, the reservoir is remaining full (about a 1/4 inch from the top of the neck). It would seem normal that the system does not need as much fluid, now that the pistons are more open than they were with the old pads, which were paper thin. Am I correct in thinking this way?


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## wag-zhp (Apr 8, 2004)

Excellent. Glad to hear it wasn't anything serious.

Your thinking is correct about the amount of fluid required to refill the hydraulic system. With the pistons compressed the whole system will hold a little less fluid, but the reservoir should always be filled to the correct level. Each caliper only hold a few ounces of fluid when the piston is fully expanded, and has a minimal capacity when the piston is compressed.


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## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

dgallant said:


> Got it. It was as everyone suspected, I hadn't compressed the piston all the way. After figuring that out this morning I was able to finish the 3 remaining wheels fairly quickly.
> 
> I do have another question though. I removed some break fluid from the main reservoir prior to starting on things so that compressing the piston would not cause an overflow. I just started the engine, pumped the brakes, turned off the engine and added some of the fluid back into the reservoir (will get the brakes bled this week). I did this twice and the second time, the reservoir is remaining full (about a 1/4 inch from the top of the neck). It would seem normal that the system does not need as much fluid, now that the pistons are more open than they were with the old pads, which were paper thin. Am I correct in thinking this way?


:fruit:

Love it when DIYs work out! :thumbup:


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## dgallant (Feb 29, 2008)

Thanks guys!

I love it when DIY projects work too. Especially when a brake job ends up costing about $325 (plus the cost of a couple of cheap tools and a sweet aluminum floor jack) Vs. $1,000 at most shops in town!


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