# MP3 AUX Input Retrofit



## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

Hello All,

I'm a newbie to the site and I've noticed some of you guys seem to be gurus for our E60s. I have a question I hope someone can shed some light on.
Ive purchased an Retrofit AUX Input for my 06 E60. Ive tried a DIY install, however I've been unsuccessful. Ive attached the PDF to illustrate the item and directions.

I've been under the impression that the existing X13813 plug gets replace it with the AUX plug (which is an exact fit). Removing the existing X13813 plug eliminated the subs under the seats and rear speakers  only the front speakers worked.
I read on another forum that the harness to the AUX Input had to be cut and spliced in the the factory harness witch made me very uncomfortable in doing, so I replaced the original plug ,put the dash back together then call it quits.

After reading the this PDF again over and over, it seems that what needs to be done is to extract the pins (wires) from the AUX Input plug and insert them into the pin location on the existing factory plug as instructed in the PDF.

My question is has anyone purchased this AUX Input and installed it successfully (via pin exaction or splicing)? I really don't want to take my dash apart again if the pin extraction method doesn't work.

Thanks


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

*My Retrofit Install*

Hello all,

No one was able to get back to me on my questions so I decided to attempt the install again. This time I've posted step-by-step pictures for those brave ones who want to attempt the install. Here it goes:
First and Foremost, follow this very important step otherwise you will not be able to pull your radio out. Make sure the E-brake is on, Put the care in Drive then turn your car off. Now open your trunk and disconnect your batteries negative terminal.
This is VERY IMPORTANT, DO NOT CLOSE YOUR TRUNK you won't be able to get in with the battery disconnected (at least I don't know how to).
OK, here we go. You'll need:
*A tiny flat head screw driver
[*]A drill with an 11/32 and a 3/32 drill bits
[*]You'll also need some sort of prying tool with a thin flat edge(preferably plastic)*
 I used a metal door panel removal tool which I wrapped with tape to protect my panels.
the small flat head I used for a couple of the small plugs that needed a little persuasion to be removed 




































*DOOR PANEL REMOVAL TOOL*


















*LOCATION OF AUX ADAPTER (JUST LEFT OF GLOVE BOX)*









*Pry up the edge of the dash trim at the passenger side end. It is not just going to pop up so put some elbow grease into it as it is a tight fit. Once the edge is popped up, place your fingers in the lifted part just to the left of the popped up area and gently pull out, continue this movement till the entire trim is removed.*













































*THE EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE THE SMALL HARNESS GOING TO THE HAZARD/LOCK SWITCH IS TO POP UP THE SWITCH OUT OF THE PANEL*









*REMOVE THE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS THAT FASTEN THE AC CONTROL BEZEL*









*BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS NEXT STEP, THE AC BEZEL AND THE POCKET BEZELS ARE ATTACHED IN THE CENTER BY PLASTIC CLIPS SO THEY MUST BOTH COME OFF IN ONE PIECE.
WITH YOUR PRY TOOL, CAREFULLY PRY ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BEZELS, PARTICULARLY AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THE POCKET IS, THE EDGES ARE HELD IN WITH METAL CLIPS AS SEEN IN NEXT PICTURES. *






















































*NOW WE'RE AT THE RADIO, REMOVE THE 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING IT IN*









*SLOWLY REMOVE THE RADIO TO EXPOSE THE WIRING HARNESS *









*CAREFULLY REMOVE THE ANTENNA PLUGS AND THE MAIN HARNESS, IT HAS A LEVER THAT LIFTS FROM THE BOTTOM UP TO UNLATCH THE HARNESS, BE VERY CAREFUL, THE FIBER CABLES ARE IN THAT HARNESS.*









*REMOVE THE X13813 PLUG FROM THE MAIN HARNESS

Now that the radio is out and the harness is exposed, I'm going to do the Aux Retrofit. I completely dropped the glove box so I can easily drill the holes. (1 plastic pin on each side holding the strap and the absorber, 8 screws and 2 plastic brackets holding the glove box from the bottom)
I then placed the aux faceplate on the desired location and marked my drill holes. I used the 11/32 for the center hold and the 3/32 for the 2 screw holes.*



























*This small access panel is conveniently located on the bottom of the location where the aux adapter will be. Take caution when opening it because there is a terminated fiber dead-end. I was able to stick 2 fingers in that access panel to feed the aux cable up into the radio location and align the 3.5mm end into the newly drilled hold from the back.*



























*Screw in the center nut and the face plate screws, put your glove box back together and you are done with that part of the install, lets go back to the harness part.*


















* As per the directions on the PDF file posted on my original post, the 3 wires (white/blue, white/red, white/brown) must be inserted into the X13812 connector you removed earlier. W/BL to Pin 7, W/RT to Pin 2 and W/BR to Pin 8.*









*Insert plug X13812 back into the main harness and reinsert the main harness back into the back of the radio along with the antenna wires and anything else you pulled out of the radio. Reverse all your removal steps and put it all back together.*

I completed the install however, as expected the I drive did not display the Aux mode due to programming that needs to be done by the dealer. It will be at least a week before I get to make it to the dealer. ( I have to prepare for a reaming ) I'll get back to you all with an update when I get it programmed.

I'll be more than happy to entertain questions regarding this install. For those wondering where I got the Retro kit from, I got it on an auction site for $65.
I hope you guys enjoy this DYI as it took me quite a bit of time to put together.:thumbup:


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## TheViolentVicar (Jan 24, 2011)

And it looks it. This is very well done.


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## boramkiv (Jan 8, 2011)

I tried this on my own last year and only made it to the removal of the faceplate on the radio, then had to do more research, so i stopped and rebuilt (needed the car) My issue is it's not really worth it when an independent dealer is quoting me $300 to have the car sit on a battery tender for 8 hours. Might as well have them do it all.


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

boramkiv said:


> I tried this on my own last year and only made it to the removal of the faceplate on the radio, then had to do more research, so i stopped and rebuilt (needed the car) My issue is it's not really worth it when an independent dealer is quoting me $300 to have the car sit on a battery tender for 8 hours. Might as well have them do it all.


Hi, I can agree with you there, $300 doesn't sound bad at all, I'd let them do it for that but the nearest dealer to me (FT Myers, FL) is quoting me almost $500 :thumbdwn: for the entire job. 
by purchasing the retro kit and installing it on my own I'll save myself almost $300.


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## tommyv (May 29, 2007)

Fantastic DIY! Is the install different if you have the CD changer in the glove? I thought I remembered seeing something about having to use the connector for the CD changer as your aux input...


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

tommyv said:


> Fantastic DIY! Is the install different if you have the CD changer in the glove? I thought I remembered seeing something about having to use the connector for the CD changer as your aux input...


I did read something like that on other post but I'm not exactly sure.


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## T_R (Feb 22, 2011)

did you get your idrive programmed? How much did it cost?


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

T_R said:


> did you get your idrive programmed? How much did it cost?


No Not yet, I have to go for a wheel alignment this week before I get the Aux programmed, the alignment is going to set me back $285 bucks so I'll have to do the programming in another 2 weeks. I'll post the results as soon as I get it done.


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

*Update 4/04/11*

Hello All,

It took me some time to get the car to the dealer but I finally got the programing done. 
today 4/4/11 dropped my vehicle off fist thing 9:30 am, by 3pm they called to tell me it was done. I expected the update to be a longer process but it only took roughly around 5 hours.

They charged me $200 for the job and now I can see the "AUX" option on my Idrive,(and it works :thumbup: ) In addition I can now also play MP3's on the single CD unit, where as before the update I could not.


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## itolson (Jul 11, 2011)

Sorted...

used ncs expert to update the mask control unit and set auxin to aktive, programmed it in expert mode (back up your old config) and viola the aux-in option appears on your idrive , I also set mp3 to aktive but that does not seem to work although reading up on it if a add +kmp3 to the cars FA i.e tell the ecu what control units it has and then try again it may work.

For Those who want a cheaper alternative to the bmw aux in lead at £60.00 then call a company called nemesis on 0870 7775530 and ask for a VW/Seat/BMW/MB Auxilary input harness £14.04 delivered.

it comes with a black and white quadlock 12 pin adaptor so you can either use the cdc input or block C left had side 12 pins on the back of the radio or the right hand side 12 pin block.


As for the pin outs, they are completely wrong in all the documentation i read, but for 
I tried just about every combination from their own document, block c 8,9 and ground 2 did not work.

Then I tried various combinations from the internet that also did not work, but by working through it logically I managed to get it to work perfectly in my car (2005 E60 545i) no nav, no cdc, just standard cd.

I used block D right hand side of the 12 pin block in the quad lock.

Pins used where 7 left white, 6 red right, and black ground on 12. (note the ground needs to be connected to get the left and right channels to come through otherwise you dont get any sound at all and you think its not working).

Dont ask me why these work as all of the documentation I found did not identify these but it works.

I now have my parrot mki9200 installed via the aux in using the stereo as the amp so you get the best of all worlds, blue tooth streaming, usb, sd card, ipod, aux in hands free etc etc.

I have also upgraded the speakers to alpine 4" units and placed a sub in the boot, now it sounds way way better then the logic 7 setup that my mate has and it cost me a total of around about £400.00 for everything.

so if you have managed to find this post and have no or little audio coming from your aux in when enabled then try the pins above.


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## txag_530i (Dec 10, 2008)

tommyv said:


> Fantastic DIY! Is the install different if you have the CD changer in the glove? I thought I remembered seeing something about having to use the connector for the CD changer as your aux input...


I just completed my retrofit following this most excellent DIY and no, you do not use the CD changer connector as the AUX input. My CD-changer remains available.

I purchased a line out adapter for my iPhone and use the 1/8 output jack to plug into the aux input. I also purchased a used spec dock for $40 and so I can control the iPhone from the driver's seat. The music sounds great, and for ~$100 installed I can forgo not selecting the music in iDrive.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031U1AU0/ref=oh_o01_s00_i01_details

I activated the aux input using NCS Expert, so the programming trip to the dealer was not necessary.

Thanks to the OP for a great write-up. I would add a couple of notes: the reason that the large drill bit is used is because you actually pull the jack through the hole, attach the faceplate and nut, and then use the two screws to hold the assembly into place. I kept trying to pull just the threaded part of the cable through the hole and found that there were not enough threads to keep the jack in place. Also, make sure to position the faceplate low enough that the upper screw head can clear the flashlight bracket.


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## mrblorry (Feb 18, 2010)

Great DIY, but two things from my perspective: My cable came with its own X13813 plug, and it is the same part number: 65 12 0 153 502, and the part was made in May, 2011. I haven't installed it yet, so I guess I'll know soon enough if the pin config is correct.

The sticker surrounding the cable says it's for an E39, but I'd read elsewhere that it's the same cable. These pinouts are at #3, #4, #10 and different colored wires as well. I have a CD changer, and it would be nice to leave it plugged in, but with this cable having its own plug (and removal of the pins would likely not be possible without damage), I may just settle with disconnecting the changer, and leaving it where it is.

And I am going to be using NCSExpert, and maybe while I'm at it, I can also activate mp3 capability on the single cd player!


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## Ammastor (Dec 21, 2011)

Glad to see you using and specialty tool to remove you dash rather then a screw driver o something the like.


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## mrblorry (Feb 18, 2010)

Does anyone know the best way to remove the pins from the supplied plug? And how to insert them in the existing plug without screwing it all up? (as I am prone to do.) uch:


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## mrblorry (Feb 18, 2010)

Nevermind! (Not that anyone cares) You have to remove the U shaped bracket that fits over the wire holder, press the wire release with a small bent out paperclip or something, then remove the u shaped bracket on the one in your car and fit the pins in 7,8,2.

Put the bracket back on over the pins, put that plug back in the harness, plug it back in the radio and test. Whew! Worked like a champ! Plus, my CD changer still works. I was able to see the date of my rig, and with a build date of 2003, there's no way I've heard that the CD drive is ever going to play mp3s, it's just too old.

With a price tag of around $1700 for a new one, I'll pass. Who cares? My media player finally works in this car! Now I can see how my FLAC collection sounds.


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## papu84 (Jan 21, 2012)

croket said:


> Hello All,
> 
> It took me some time to get the car to the dealer but I finally got the programing done.
> today 4/4/11 dropped my vehicle off fist thing 9:30 am, by 3pm they called to tell me it was done. I expected the update to be a longer process but it only took roughly around 5 hours.
> ...


man 200$ for coding the ccc for the aux option. if you had ncsexpert and a inpa cable you could activate it yourself in 2 minutes. you just had to set the parameter from AUX_CONFIG
not_mounted to mounted and that was all


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

*programing*

Yea, it sucked to have to pay that, at the time I didn't know that I could do that myself, even if I did I don't know that I would have attempted it for fear of messing something up. 
I later found out about diy programing, I downloaded all the software and purchased a cable from eBay, unfortunately the cable did not seem to communicate with the software and/or vehicle so that was as far as I got with attempting any programing.


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## papu84 (Jan 21, 2012)

you can just buy inpa cable from ebay it`s cheap. And you need ncsexpert to code your car. There are a lot of things you can code and you cannot mess anything up because if you play with the config of the modules and you mess up anything you can write a blank coding file to the module and all the settings get back to default and you can start all over again. It`s fun !


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## croket (Feb 13, 2011)

*Fun!*

LOL.. Fun!.. You make it sound too easy,, ok, I"m going to give it another shot.. I"m going to look for the cable again.:tsk:


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