# which floor jack should I get?



## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> *You might want to buy a bottle of hydraulic jack fluid and fill your jack. Mine came a good bit below the proper fluid level. You can get the stuff an almost any auto parts store, even Walmart carries it. I got mine at AutoZone because I happened to be there. *


Hmm... that's a good suggestion. 
I will check the manual again, but I don't recall seeing anything there about hydraulic fluids being a user serviceable item, nor instructions on how to do it.


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## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

The HACK said:


> *I haven't checked with the AC Hydraulics jack because at full height, that thing will lift the car straight into the roof of my garage. :tsk: *


Do you mind pulling your car out to the driveway and check.
Like I said, it could be that all jacks do that. Then again, it could be that I'm not tightening the valve enough.
Mine doesn't have to be all the way up to start lowering. It does need a substantial amount of weight on it. In other words, with little weight (like both my 9 and 5 year olds on it), it stays up.


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## ayn (Dec 19, 2001)

JetBlack330i said:


> *I'm not a mechanic and have never raced, although I'm considering it seriously now that ayn introduced me to cart racing... great money sucking passtime :thumbup:
> *


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

hehe! let's go some time again (after u fully recover from your soccer accident of course)! sounds like u've been practicing huh? damn!

*



Here are my finalists:
1) This is a 2 ton version and costs $250 at our local store
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/displayitem_retail.taf?itemnumber=2672

2) This is the lightweight version (only 3000 lb) of the same jack and is on sale for $170 in same store.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/displayitem_retail.taf?itemnumber=47246

Click to expand...

*Where do I get these locally? I probably can get the lightweight version so I can bring it out to the track with me... and it should be good enough for my 330 and the (soon to come) MINI! 

EDIT: oh I didn't know HF got stores... heh... ok... a lil far though, worth the $6 handling charge to have to shipped right to my door. 

--Andrew


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## Mr. The Edge (Dec 19, 2001)

*Re: Re: which floor jack should I get?*



ayn said:


> *
> 
> Where do I get these locally? I probably can get the lightweight version so I can bring it out to the track with me... and it should be good enough for my 330 and the (soon to come) MINI!
> 
> --Andrew *


is it officially ordered now?

:bigpimp:


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## ayn (Dec 19, 2001)

*Re: Re: Re: which floor jack should I get?*



atyclb said:


> *is it officially ordered now?
> 
> :bigpimp: *


officially, no, because I cannot put an order in now and get a 2004 MCS!   

There is no wait at SA nor Houston for either the Cooper or the S, the guy at SA wouldnt tell me anything about how to get an '04, the sales manager at Houston told me I should order in around August and I'd get an '04... so we'll get it in November.

If the weather is good this Saturday, we'll go down to SA to test drive the Cooper and the S... if the Cooper is good enough and they got the right color combo, we might buy one off the lot... but I think we are more likely to order a '04 MCS... I like that 3-spoke steering wheel better... 

oh yeah, I taught Sherry how to drive a stick last night at the MOT parking lot, in MY car! that went really well actually... 

--Andrew


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

JetBlack330i said:


> *First, I think the 2-ton rating is exagerated, depending on how you view it...
> I used it to lift half of an ML320 (~5000lb) and while the jack did it's job, it felt like it was straining itself. I can't say the jack showed any signs of material fatigue. It's just that I didn't expect to have to put all my weight (160+ lb) on to push the handle down.
> So, if the rating is measured by how much weight you put on it until something fails, then maybe it'll take 2-ton. But from a user's point of view, the hydralics is under-designed and lifting half of an ML (way under 2-ton) is about it's limit.*


If I had seen your post before you bought it, this is the primary concern I would have raised, along with the fact that they drop to quickly. They are supposed to be "racing" jacks with a 6 pump full extension, iirc. As far as I am concerned, that just makes them difficult to use. I am not ever in a hurry to get the car up, after all. And then, when you let it down, it has a happen to go down very fast. I have had some luck controlling this after I greased the end of the handle (thanks, board), but it's still too difficult imo.

I have the small one and I consider it a mistake. More b/c of my own lack of diligence, though. I thought it would be low profile enough to reach the center jack points. It's not. I searched the forum after I had already bought it . . .

Also, the small one probably doesn't have the reach you want for an SUV. I tried to pick up a 4 runner corner once. It barely got the tire clear to get it off. (And yes, I used stands)


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## srcstc (Oct 29, 2002)

*Re: Re: DK20*



The HACK said:


> *DK20 is great. The only reason Kaz and I got the DK13HLQ is the DK13 will actually reach both the front and rear center lift points. Yeah, it's expensive but it's worth every single penny if your car tends to be on jackstands on the weekend like mine. :thumbup: *


Will the DK20 reach either front or rear center lift points?


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## teamdfl (Sep 24, 2002)

*Re: Re: Re: DK20*



srcstc said:


> *Will the DK20 reach either front or rear center lift points? *


I can reach the front subframe and rear subframe/diff with my DK20 on my 325it with the stock sport package suspension.

Ed


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## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

Update: HF has the 1.5 ton jack on sale for $119 and the 2 ton jack for $199. :yikes: 
I payed $250.    

I couldn't resist and bought another one (the 4 ton).  
If you read my review above, I gave it a 6 mainly because of 2 issues.
First, the difficult pumping. This was solved by adding a bit of hydraulic fluid. It's much better than before.
Second, the leaky hydraulics. The new jack I bough doesn't have that problem. This confirms my suspicion that the first one is defective.
With those 2 issues resolved, I'm very happy with this jack. It is a superb value. I raise my rating to a 9. Recommended. :thumbup:


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## Llarry (May 17, 2002)

Maybe I've missed something here, but Sears has a Crafstman 2-ton aluminum jack as well and the prices rival HF's. Pretty similar in quality, I suspect, but I felt a little better with Sears backing it.

I actually got mine for something like $162, which was $199 but on sale for $179 but then 10 percent off or something. Anyway, another option for those pondering the jack issue.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

I've checked out the Sears jack, and it's not bad. I wouldn't go as far as to say it's a whole lot better than the HF 'standard' though. I do like the handle configuration which does help in carrying it around, and it has real wheels in front, like the more expensive HF.

I did discover a jack that seems of about equal quality as all of these but at a slightly lower cost. I've seen it on sale at Pep Boys for <$99. It has some steel components instead of aluminum, but it doesn't seem to hurt weight that much.


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

Anecdotal fyi - those handles are easy to remove if you don't have a particular use for them. I decided to take them off b/c I was using the paddle insert to lift the e36 and the handle was getting in the way of placing the jack stand where I wanted to. It aslo made the jack significantly narrower and easier to store.

Hey, I suppose that means I saved weight, too. :rofl:


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Other than the heavy and expensive DK jacks, are there any out there that can reach the front and rear center jack points? It'd be nice to just put the jack under the front or rear center points, jack it up, add jackstands on the sides, and be done. Can the Sears aluminum jack do that? Seems light enough and cheap enough. The DK jacks sound a rather heavy to bring to the track.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

JonW said:


> Other than the heavy and expensive DK jacks, are there any out there that can reach the front and rear center jack points? It'd be nice to just put the jack under the front or rear center points, jack it up, add jackstands on the sides, and be done. Can the Sears aluminum jack do that? Seems light enough and cheap enough. The DK jacks sound a rather heavy to bring to the track.


It's an issue of length. Any jack will 'reach', just that the handle will have to be pretty much horizontal and you'll have to jiggle it a lot to get the car up. Even with the AC, the rear is still tough.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Kaz said:


> Even with the AC, the rear is still tough.


Really? You may have just saved me a lot of cash. So what is one to do? I guess it's just use a helper jack to put up one side and then slide the regular jack all the way under, eh? So which regular jack should I then get? Hmmm... The Sears aluminum looks nice... :dunno:


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Well, if your xi is bone stock, you can probably slide any old jack underneath and get to the rear jack point. The handle will probably be completely under the car, though.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Kaz said:


> Well, if your xi is bone stock, you can probably slide any old jack underneath and get to the rear jack point. The handle will probably be completely under the car, though.


Yeah, the xi is raised more than most cars due to the AWD suspension it came with. I've got a Sears jack (3.5 ton, I think) that fits under the back center point just fine. It's about 1/4" too high to slide under to the front center jack point (a splash guard gets in the way), but if I had the rear jacked up first, the shocks remember a tad and I can slide the jack under to the front center point.

BUT: I just bought a '93 325is for track duty. It hasn't arrived in my garage yet, so I haven't tried my jack on it. I'm guessing it might not work. And once I get some racing shocks on there... So I'm not sure what jack to look at next. Low is nice, to reach those center points in one go. But those AC (DK) jacks don't look like you'd want to lug them to the track. Not to mention they're a bit expensive. Hmmm...


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

JonW said:


> Yeah, the xi is raised more than most cars due to the AWD suspension it came with. I've got a Sears jack (3.5 ton, I think) that fits under the back center point just fine. It's about 1/4" too high to slide under to the front center jack point (a splash guard gets in the way), but if I had the rear jacked up first, the shocks remember a tad and I can slide the jack under to the front center point.
> 
> BUT: I just bought a '93 325is for track duty. It hasn't arrived in my garage yet, so I haven't tried my jack on it. I'm guessing it might not work. And once I get some racing shocks on there... So I'm not sure what jack to look at next. Low is nice, to reach those center points in one go. But those AC (DK) jacks don't look like you'd want to lug them to the track. Not to mention they're a bit expensive. Hmmm...


Ah, but you will learn the beauty of the e36, my friend. You will have the access holes on the rocker panels.

Pop off the little covers and you can insert a jack pad to jack up the car from the outside.

On my car, in my tight 2 car garage with both cars in, I can get my car up and all four jackstands in. Having the external jack pad, I can align the jack parallet to the car. :bigpimp: Pelican Parts is one place to get those things (Part number PEL-JP-0014 for $29.95) I'll post a pic when I locate them on their site.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

I think I've seen those jack pads around. So is the idea that you use the pad and jack up one corner of the car and then slide a jack stand under the frame? Then do this again in the other 3 corners?

Maybe a $30 pad could save me from having to buy another jack. :thumbup:


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

JonW said:


> I think I've seen those jack pads around. So is the idea that you use the pad and jack up one corner of the car and then slide a jack stand under the frame? Then do this again in the other 3 corners?
> 
> Maybe a $30 pad could save me from having to buy another jack. :thumbup:


They look like a metal ping pong paddle with a long handle 

Depending on how high your jack can go, you may be able to put both jackstands in on one side using either the front or rear jacking point. Having the jack on the outside helps keep it from being in the way of positioning the stands.


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## Nick325xiT 5spd (Dec 24, 2001)

Jon, if you grab the front bumper and lift, you'll be able to raise the car enough to get the jack into the front jack point. That's what I do. :angel:

I do need a suggestion for a small, lightish jack purely for changing wheels at autoxes. It'll be used on one of the side jack points, so so it doesn't need any more reach than necessary to get the car up into the air. The smaller, the better. I'd prefer not to have anything huge flying around my interior.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

Nick325xiT 5spd said:


> I do need a suggestion for a small, lightish jack purely for changing wheels at autoxes. It'll be used on one of the side jack points, so so it doesn't need any more reach than necessary to get the car up into the air. The smaller, the better. I'd prefer not to have anything huge flying around my interior.


I'm looking for something like this but one that doesn't cost freaking $89 from Griot's.


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## AF (Dec 21, 2001)

I went with the Sears jack for about $199 . . . it's great but when I first bouight, I used it to pick up my wife's Volvo SUV and it managed to get both wheels off the ground.

So the next day I decided to rotate the tires and the jack would only get one wheel off the ground, it needed about another 1" and it would have gotten the other wheel off but it didn't raise as high ths time

I bought jack fluid and need to put some in to see if it helps

Otherwise for the bimmer, it was great to jack up one side at a time.


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

Here's the e36 jack pad arm:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_E36REC_pg13.htm


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

scottn2retro said:


> Here's the e36 jack pad arm:
> 
> http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_E36REC_pg13.htm


That pad is the reason I took the handles off my harbor freight jack. They were getting in the way of where I wanted to put the jack stands. It does make jacking the car up a lot easier.

You just have to be careful when you set the car up - the chasis is stiff enough that jacking up one side will sometimes pick the car up off the jack stand on the other side - You have to make sure it's coming down in the right place.

Also, if you have the emergency brake set or the car in gear (which seems like a safe thing to do), the suspension lets the wheels move to a more forward position when you pick the car up. When you put it back down on one side, the back wheel will be more forward then when you picked it up and the it will try and push the car off the remaining jack stands. I always leave the car in neutral, take the emergency brake off once it is solidly on the stands, and put the front down first.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

rwg said:


> You just have to be careful when you set the car up - the chasis is stiff enough that jacking up one side will sometimes pick the car up off the jack stand on the other side - You have to make sure it's coming down in the right place.
> 
> Also, if you have the emergency brake set or the car in gear (which seems like a safe thing to do), the suspension lets the wheels move to a more forward position when you pick the car up. When you put it back down on one side, the back wheel will be more forward then when you picked it up and the it will try and push the car off the remaining jack stands. I always leave the car in neutral, take the emergency brake off once it is solidly on the stands, and put the front down first.


OK, thanks. So then, with all of what you wrote, wouldn't it just be easier to use the flimsy jack that comes with the car (the one you put in that hole) to lift the car just a enough that you can slide a regular jack under the front cross member or the rear differential? That way, you've got half the car up and can slide two jack stands at once under the front or the rear. Then let down the car on the stands, and repeat for the other end of the car. Sounds like it might have less "settling" of the car as you described...?


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

JonW said:


> OK, thanks. So then, with all of what you wrote, wouldn't it just be easier to use the flimsy jack that comes with the car (the one you put in that hole) to lift the car just a enough that you can slide a regular jack under the front cross member or the rear differential? That way, you've got half the car up and can slide two jack stands at once under the front or the rear. Then let down the car on the stands, and repeat for the other end of the car. Sounds like it might have less "settling" of the car as you described...?


That would probably work just as well. On the e36, I prefer to use the jack paddle b/c it is simple, won't hurt whatever brace you decide to jack on, and doesn't require two jacks. Personally, I wouldn't use the jack that comes with the car for any reason other than an emergency, but I do have two floor jacks, so I "could" do it that way. The e36 jack plugs inot the same hole as that jack paddle, btw. Unfortunately, the underside of the e36 is soft. There are numerous places where the previus owner put a jack - in the wrong place (it crushes the metal in). In fact, the frame rail right next to the jack support spot (a spot I would have considered safe) was deformed from a "bad jacking." So I stick to the jack points.

When I had the e46, I couldn't do that b/c the jack point was also my preferred jack stand point. I used the frame rails on that car and did a side at a time. I didn't have a jack that could reach the points that a lot of guys use.


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

rwg said:


> That pad is the reason I took the handles off my harbor freight jack. They were getting in the way of where I wanted to put the jack stands. It does make jacking the car up a lot easier.


I don't run into that because I position the jack in the same direction as the car. With a very tight 2 car garage, both cars in and the garage door closed, I can get the race car up on all 4 jack stands.  The jack arm allows me to do that.


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## AF (Dec 21, 2001)

rwg said:


> Also, if you have the emergency brake set or the car in gear (which seems like a safe thing to do),


I always though you were supposed to make sure the car was in neutral when you jack it up since when you let it down, you are putting some pressure on the rear wheel which in my 330 made a noise which was the rear wheel being turned with the emergency brake on . . . I would think if the car was in gear this would put stress on the transmission


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

scottn2retro said:


> I don't run into that because I position the jack in the same direction as the car. With a very tight 2 car garage, both cars in and the garage door closed, I can get the race car up on all 4 jack stands.  The jack arm allows me to do that.


You are (perhaps) more talented than I. I think you have to put the jack parallel to the car or the front part of the jack rolls in an area that interferes with the jack stand placement. Taking the handles off gave me more room for slop with a parallel position. It's also possible we are using different spots for the jack stands. I like to put them under the rubber pressure point bushings . . .



AF-RX8 said:


> I always though you were supposed to make sure the car was in neutral when you jack it up since when you let it down, you are putting some pressure on the rear wheel which in my 330 made a noise which was the rear wheel being turned with the emergency brake on . . . I would think if the car was in gear this would put stress on the transmission


I think you are right Alan, but I won't jack a car up that can roll. Especially at my house where if it happened to roll out of the garage, it's rolling down a fairly steep drive way. So I use the brake and take it off after the car is on stands.


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## scottn2retro (Mar 20, 2002)

rwg said:


> You are (perhaps) more talented than I. I think you have to put the jack parallel to the car or the front part of the jack rolls in an area that interferes with the jack stand placement. Taking the handles off gave me more room for slop with a parallel position. It's also possible we are using different spots for the jack stands. I like to put them under the rubber pressure point bushings . . .


I think I missed your original point. DOH! :doh: I'm using a different jack with no carrying handles.


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## Randy Forbes (Apr 1, 2002)

Here's the best jack I ever had


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

Has anyone tried this model from Pep-Boys?

http://pepboys.crossmediaservices.c...8284412&storeid=2315156&offerid=&L2CatID=5111

It's priced right and it's mostly aluminum. I'm looking for one that I can use on my 5'er as well as my full-sized pickup.

I went to Sears and looked over their offerings. They have a 3-ton SUV set, with stands, that is short like this one, and also has a larger circular "head", but no rubber insert. I'm sure I can improvise something to put in there. The minimum height is 5.75", max 21".It's on sale for $99.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

jvr530i said:


> I went to Sears and looked over their offerings. They have a 3-ton SUV set, with stands, that is short like this one, and also has a larger circular "head", but no rubber insert. I'm sure I can improvise something to put in there. The minimum height is 5.75", max 21".It's on sale for $99.


Don't get it--it's too tall for my car (E46 325). I have that one. Although I think it's fine for most uses, it won't fit under the center front lifting point without using another jack on the side lift point. And sometimes it's too high for a side lift point (depending where the car is positioned in my garage).


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## rwg (May 10, 2002)

elbert said:


> Don't get it--it's too tall for my car (E46 325). I have that one. Although I think it's fine for most uses, it won't fit under the center front lifting point without using another jack on the side lift point. And sometimes it's too high for a side lift point (depending where the car is positioned in my garage).


That is going to be true of just about every jack out there with the exception of the AC jacks. Personally, I highly recommend getting an all aluminum one. The steel versions are very heavy. They are a pain to drag around and not portable. The aluminum ones, on the other hand, go right in the trunk after you take the handle off with no effort and won't dig gouges out of your garage floor.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

I think that Sears aluminum one might be ok, based on eyeballing measurements.


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

The majority of these jacks have nearly the identical height at the handle. This is only an issue for the front center jacking point, as the whole thing needs to get under the car about a foot to reach it. The AC is just long enough that with the handle straight up, it butts up against the license plate.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

The problem I have with the 3 ton jack is the lifting pad itself doesn't fit underneath the jackpoint, so I can't even find out if the height at the handle will be another problem.


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

elbert said:


> The problem I have with the 3 ton jack is the lifting pad itself doesn't fit underneath the jackpoint, so I can't even find out if the height at the handle will be another problem.


Earlier on in this thread I read about a trick using a piece of 2x4. You put one in front of each front wheel, then drive up on them, now you have 1.5" extra room. Knowing this, do u think that 3-ton model would work better for you?


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

jvr530i said:


> Earlier on in this thread I read about a trick using a piece of 2x4. You put one in front of each front wheel, then drive up on them, now you have 1.5" extra room. Knowing this, do u think that 3-ton model would work better for you?


Probably, but I'm lazy (and occasionally forgetful)  I want the elegance of a one-shot deal where I don't have to drive over pieces of wood.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

Kaz said:


> The DK13HLQ will reach the front jackpoint of a E46 with the handle straight up. In fact, butting the handle up against the front license plate is about perfect. The rear is way further in so even the DK13HLQ isn't long enough.


Yup. I saw you mentioned that in an earlier post. But for the extra $150 or so, I thought it not worth the extra cost. The DK20 will be excellent for all my uses as long as I don't lower either car more than an inch in the front. :eeps:

This thing is nice, though. It might make me find excuses to put the car up on stands. Kind of like how the car makes me look for excuses to drive. :angel:


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

JonW said:


> Yup. I saw you mentioned that in an earlier post. But for the extra $150 or so, I thought it not worth the extra cost. The DK20 will be excellent for all my uses as long as I don't lower either car more than an inch in the front. :eeps:


Yeah, but you have an xi which sits about--you guessed it--an inch taller than rwd E46's, let alone a lowered E46.


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## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

So, what's the verdict? Can a DK20 be used on an e46 330i/330ci or not?


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

JetBlack330i said:


> So, what's the verdict? Can a DK20 be used on an e46 330i/330ci or not?


That depends on your definition of 'can.' You can use a bus jack on a E46 if you want. It won't be easy but it'll get the car in the air. 

But if you're talking about using it in an easy and convenient manner, it's a maybe with any of these jacks.

On a E46, as long as the car isn't lowered a whole lot (no more than an inch from SP, I'd say), you should be able to slide a DK20, the Sears AL, HF, etc. under it and get the car up, just as JonW describes. The rear is a non-issue as the clearances are larger back there.

If the car is lower than that and you don't want to drive up onto wood planks first, no jack on the market that I'm aware of will work without either getting part of the car up off the air some other way first.


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## operknockity (Apr 19, 2002)

JonW said:


> And if you go to this website:
> http://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html


 A DK13LHQ for $365 vs $430 from Ultimate Garage and $399 from Pelican Parts. Hmmmmm.......


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## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

Kaz said:


> On a E46, as long as the car isn't lowered a whole lot (no more than an inch from SP, I'd say), you should be able to slide a DK20, the Sears AL, HF, etc. under it and get the car up, just as JonW describes. The rear is a non-issue as the clearances are larger back there.
> 
> If the car is lower than that and you don't want to drive up onto wood planks first, no jack on the market that I'm aware of will work without either getting part of the car up off the air some other way first.


I guess my question is more about reach than height (I'm willing to drive over wood planks). If I can't get to the center lift point, and have to use one of the side jack points for the jack, where do I put the jack stands?


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

JetBlack330i said:


> I guess my question is more about reach than height (I'm willing to drive over wood planks). If I can't get to the center lift point, and have to use one of the side jack points for the jack, where do I put the jack stands?


What I do right now is use two jacks. Start with a jack at a side point. Lift just enough so another jack in the front center point can fit. Then lift at the center front point until you have room for the jack stands.

Just before you lower your car, just put that side jack back into position and lower the car onto that (so don't "lower" that side jack until you are actually dropping the car).


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

operknockity said:


> A DK13LHQ for $365 vs $430 from Ultimate Garage and $399 from Pelican Parts. Hmmmmm.......


 :yikes:

:eeps: :eeps: must.... resist..... 

don't forget the cost of shipping that monster...


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## JetBlack330i (Feb 8, 2002)

elbert said:


> What I do right now is use two jacks. Start with a jack at a side point. Lift just enough so another jack in the front center point can fit. Then lift at the center front point until you have room for the jack stands.
> 
> Just before you lower your car, just put that side jack back into position and lower the car onto that (so don't "lower" that side jack until you are actually dropping the car).


Weird... wood planks don't work for you?
BTW, just placed an order for a DK20 for $273 shipped. :banana:


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## Kaz (Dec 21, 2001)

JetBlack330i said:


> I guess my question is more about reach than height (I'm willing to drive over wood planks). If I can't get to the center lift point, and have to use one of the side jack points for the jack, where do I put the jack stands?


Well, the two are sorta related. If there is enough clearance under the car, you can get a weeny jack all the way under the tranny if you want. I can say that to date, I've yet to come across a car I couldn't lift without issues.


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## operknockity (Apr 19, 2002)

doeboy said:


> :yikes:
> 
> :eeps: :eeps: must.... resist.....
> 
> don't forget the cost of shipping that monster...


 Already checked on that... Total cost would be just under $416. It is getting hard to resist, though 

Pelican would have been ideal if I could have done a will-call since they are located very close to where I work. A tad more on the jack, add tax but no shipping, but in my grubby little hands immediately. However, they don't stock those so it would have to be drop shipped and ASE still comes out ahead.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

JetBlack330i said:


> Weird... wood planks don't work for you?
> BTW, just placed an order for a DK20 for $273 shipped. :banana:


No, the two jack method is easier and quicker (for me, anyway).

Enjoy your AC!


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

operknockity said:


> Already checked on that... Total cost would be just under $416. It is getting hard to resist, though
> 
> Pelican would have been ideal if I could have done a will-call since they are located very close to where I work. A tad more on the jack, add tax but no shipping, but in my grubby little hands immediately. However, they don't stock those so it would have to be drop shipped and ASE still comes out ahead.


Whoa... that's good to know... thanks...

Hmm... $416... I'd want to get the rubber jack pad too... so... about $440-ish I'd imagine....?

Ack.... must... resist.... 

They seem to have some nice Waterloo Tool storage rollaways too...

bookmarked the site to come back to later...  :eeps:


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

elbert said:


> Yeah, but you have an xi which sits about--you guessed it--an inch taller than rwd E46's, let alone a lowered E46.


Sorry- the one inch I mentioned was for the E36 325is.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

JetBlack330i said:


> I guess my question is more about reach than height (I'm willing to drive over wood planks). If I can't get to the center lift point, and have to use one of the side jack points for the jack, where do I put the jack stands?


The DK20 (or many of the other cheaper jacks out there) WILL reach the center jack points without the aid of a second jack. But you have to slide it under there with the handle parallel to the floor. And then your first pumps are very short because the bumbers of the car get in the way, until the car is higher.

But if the car is lowered more than 1", you will need a helper jack or wood planks, etc.


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## JonW (Jan 6, 2002)

doeboy said:


> Ack.... must... resist....


It's tough, eh? 

I caved and bought one. :bigpimp:


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## operknockity (Apr 19, 2002)

JonW said:


> It's tough, eh?
> 
> I caved and bought one. :bigpimp:


 Resistance is futile :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


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## operknockity (Apr 19, 2002)

doeboy said:


> They seem to have some nice Waterloo Tool storage rollaways too...


 They are nice but I cheaped out and went with Sears Craftsman a while ago. May not be the Cadilac of tool storage, but they are good enough.


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## doeboy (Sep 20, 2002)

operknockity said:


> They are nice but I cheaped out and went with Sears Craftsman a while ago. May not be the Cadilac of tool storage, but they are good enough.


Guess who makes most of the Craftsman rollaways though?


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## operknockity (Apr 19, 2002)

doeboy said:


> Guess who makes most of the Craftsman rollaways though?


 Waterloo :dunno: :dunno:


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