# problems with clear coat



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

*Near Resolved : problems with clear coat*

Hey guy's please see the attached

so, only AFTER the car was detailed, did this show up and only on that particular side,
though I must admit the detailing has brought up a shed load of "chips"

now the guy detailing it used a clay bar and the whole car pops and feels silky smooth

so BASIC question

* Can a clay bar produce this effect ?

The service feels rough, as in this are "chips" for want of a better word
I suspect it's just the clear coat ?

Can someone suggest a fix as it's right at the bottom I'm confident in trying myself


----------



## Johnz3mc (Jan 5, 2005)

If I'm seeing it right, it looks like severe road rash. Clay bars won't produce that effect at all. That looks like way too much damage for a self repair

A respray of the clearcoat and then a film of some sort - 3M or Xpel will halt all future problems.

It's weird that the damage is only on the lower part of the bumper and not up higher too. Often this sort of damage is on the front of the car, including the leading edge of the hood and the back of the mirrors. 

Nice looking cab, great colour, and the Xpel or 3M will keep it looking good forever. Xpel claims to self correct swirls and minor scratches when heated by the sun.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

yes thats what it is and weird it is ONLY on the side panel, the other side is fine !

OK great on the Clay bar...

As it's right on the bottom, I'm kind erring on self fix,
would not some wet and dry followed by clearcoat ? NO ??



Johnz3mc said:


> If I'm seeing it right, it looks like severe road rash. Clay bars won't produce that effect at all. That looks like way too much damage for a self repair
> 
> A respray of the clearcoat and then a film of some sort - 3M or Xpel will halt all future problems.
> 
> ...


----------



## Johnz3mc (Jan 5, 2005)

I guess you could give it a go. If it didn't work, a shop can spot fix it anyway.

Go to paintscratch.com and order a spray can of clear. 
Meguiar's unigrit paper is easy to find and I'd start with 1500 and finish with 2000 grit. 

I'd also get a tube of Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0 to finish with. The wet sanding will leave a bit of a haze on the paint and the ScratchX 2.0 will remove the haze. 
A final wipe with ipa (isopropyl alcohol) will remove any residue/oils prior to spraying. 

After the clear dries, you can always use the 2000 grit / ScratchX regimen to feather any edges you can see.

Good luck and let us know how the process goes.

And finally, check out youtube videos on wet sanding before you dive in.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

txs John,
actually a few years back I did a youtube video on repairing haze on my "then" neon and wifes caravan headlights
involved doing some wet sanding

as you say its a scary heartstopper to see it haze up ! LOLZ

THANKS ! for the advise I'll give it a shot,
as it's lower down, I'm more comfortable doing it.

question
should I hand sand it ?


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

love the color of yours, cherry !


----------



## Johnz3mc (Jan 5, 2005)

Hand sanding is going to give you the control you'll need so hand sand only for the best chance of success. 
And thanks, the coupe is Imola red, color code 405 and has been a color choice for various M models over the years. Named after the track in Imola Itally, about 80 km from Maranello, home of the Ferrari factory.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

I've known that color on other cars as Ferrari Red and my Porsche had it as Indischot Red (Indian Red) I think BMW also call this Melbourne Red ?

I would have preferred that color instead of my one, but is has grown on me 



Johnz3mc said:


> And thanks, the coupe is Imola red, color code 405 and has been a color choice for various M models over the years. Named after the track in Imola Itally, about 80 km from Maranello, home of the Ferrari factory.


----------



## csmeance (Dec 10, 2007)

wouldn't be surprised if the detailer sprayed heavy duty wheel cleaner on that portion of the bumper by accident. Some such as Meg's wheel brightener will damage clearcoat finishes.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

yeah,
this is weird, because I WOULD have noticed a rash like that and it only came out after the detail,
not sure if the clay bar made it more visible.

if I took full length pic, you see it really stands out from the other side

also for "kurb damage" I would have thought it would be more prominent on the passenger side not the drivers, the passengers side is pretty near perfect

and it is only on what appears to be concentrated on a rectangular size block

That's why I really prefer to do it myself

but then if he detailed the front wheel badly, surly over spray would be on the actual arches, NOT on the front bumper , unless of course someone actually sprayed something wrong on that part whilst detailing?

what ever happened I'm a bit pissed



csmeance said:


> wouldn't be surprised if the detailer sprayed heavy duty wheel cleaner on that portion of the bumper by accident. Some such as Meg's wheel brightener will damage clearcoat finishes.


----------



## csmeance (Dec 10, 2007)

jaye944 said:


> yeah,
> this is weird, because I WOULD have noticed a rash like that and it only came out after the detail,
> not sure if the clay bar made it more visible.
> 
> ...


Mulitple times I have picked up the wrong spray and used some sort of interior soap on the exterior of my car! It wouldn't be surprising if they used the wrong bottle.

Also did the detailer use a pressure washer? If they get too close to the paintwork it can do damage similar to that.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

not sure,
but I looked at the pics again, they look like "as described" chips, would "spray etc" cause that kind of damage, if you look carefully, alot of the chips are very jagged, I would expect if it was something else it would be more smoother ?


----------



## ard (Jul 1, 2009)

Is it possible the chips were always there, but the application of a wax then 'filled in' the edges of the chips, spotlighting these edges???


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

It "is" a possibility, I bought the car on 22k (now 67) so I did look it over very carefully.

I've gotton a good look at it, I did the old cleaning with a damp rag and letting it dry, 
there are some very nasty under the bumper scratches, where I've kerbed it, 
but thoes stone chips, went dull, in other words the "white" effect went
I guess that the "wax" and clay bar, got stuck in and as you say filled it in.

Actually a lot better now, but I can still see them. but it's not a major eye sore,
I've done some video which I'll upload.



ard said:


> Is it possible the chips were always there, but the application of a wax then 'filled in' the edges of the chips, spotlighting these edges???


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

actually it's now obvious from the video camera (as I saw through the zoom) that the clear coat was damaged
so no amount of buffing would help
but anyway

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-Iz922OF_Y


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

so I wanted to PUP some 3m PPF before doing any work, how many people try to screw you over.

Googled up a couple of places near me, one guy said, you can only get a BIG roll and he could get it for the princely sum of $240
Then another shop, "who apparently valued my custom" enough not to get back to me for several days, had some small by the feet (7"x12") for about $15

I "THEN" found a really nice guy, 2 minute drive, a 3M installer, explained my situation and said
"Hey why don't I just give you some scrap that I have for you to try out" gave me 2 big 2ftx3ft squares for FREE, more than I need
So I bought a couple of things cos I felt a bit guilty 
And I found out they also do some kits for the 1er, really cheap

The guy was so ice, just wanted to help, impart info, and wasn't bothered if I bought anything
Do this people really still exist... great customer service 
ShadowShield in Mississauga,


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

https://youtu.be/YUuE07cJ49A

video of my experimenting with a small strip of 3m
yeah it's a long video for what actually was the last 1 minute... sorry


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

Didn't work , not surprising, but worth a try

https://youtu.be/UQ86aMvMwg8


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

part 4,
now leaning that that side may have had a repair, for road rash, and the top coat was just a quick blow over. If you look carefully, at the road rash, some of it looks like its had some different shade of paint, the detailing picked it up more#or even they blew it with some gastly chemical

anyway, going to try a repaint in pt 5

https://youtu.be/XSA2XXJvUrg


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

So I can confirm that this part of the car was repaired or just sprayed over.
Hence what ever detailing spray killed it.
There was evidence of paint runs right at the bottom, which is def not factory.
Also when using "prep" solution, got some of the red of, again, no something that happens with factory.

SO, there is an extensive video to come, but check out the results from my repair, considering I used NO power tools
and only acrylic rattle can on my drive/garage, I'd say out of 100%, I'd give myself 95%

Still have to hit it with some rubbing compound to feather in the new paint.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

so here is the vid, screwed up at the end,
but re-did it and it came out ok
pt 6 (final only coming out after the paint has hardened)

https://youtu.be/3z0Cx4RchfY


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

So the final part,
it's "still" not 100%, it's very good, but anally, it's still a bit dull looking, even after the polishing,
I'm thinking I need to machine polish it ?

maybe spray another top clear coat ?

cheers

https://youtu.be/LSMHn8nFOFI


----------



## Johnz3mc (Jan 5, 2005)

The dullness you still see is the result of your cut polish stage. That cut polish is really harsh and added microscopic scratches to the clearcoat, equivalent to maybe 2000 grit sandpaper.
The xymol cleaner just removed oils and residue and just made the hazy area clean. The xymol wax just made the dullness a bit shinier but still hazy because the scratching was still there. Microscopic but still there.

So, for you, the next step would be a compound polish on that area with something like Menzerna Power Cut or Meguiar's M105 or M101 or D300 on an orange pad. This will get rid of the cut polish marring. After that, follow up with a finishing polish like M205 or Menzerna nano polish on a black pad. 
The hazy look will be gone.

Then you can do your Xymol regimen.

And yes, a machine will be needed. For that area, preferably with 3 inch pads.

Your helper looks like a little sweetie pie. My little helper is all grown up now and getting married at the end of this month. They grow up so fast.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

Hey John,
txs for the reply man, the explanation sounds right.
ok of to get a DA and some polish
will advise
LOLZ on the little ones, yeah for sure I hear ya ! :thumbup:



Johnz3mc said:


> The dullness you still see is the result of your cut polish stage. That cut polish is really harsh and added microscopic scratches to the clearcoat, equivalent to maybe 2000 grit sandpaper.
> The xymol cleaner just removed oils and residue and just made the hazy area clean. The xymol wax just made the dullness a bit shinier but still hazy because the scratching was still there. Microscopic but still there.
> 
> So, for you, the next step would be a compound polish on that area with something like Menzerna Power Cut or Meguiar's M105 or M101 or D300 on an orange pad. This will get rid of the cut polish marring. After that, follow up with a finishing polish like M205 or Menzerna nano polish on a black pad.
> ...


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

Johnz3mc said:


> The dullness you still see is the result of your cut polish stage. That cut polish is really harsh and added microscopic scratches to the clearcoat, equivalent to maybe 2000 grit sandpaper.
> The xymol cleaner just removed oils and residue and just made the hazy area clean. The xymol wax just made the dullness a bit shinier but still hazy because the scratching was still there. Microscopic but still there.
> 
> So, for you, the next step would be a compound polish on that area with something like Menzerna Power Cut or Meguiar's M105 or M101 or D300 on an orange pad. This will get rid of the cut polish marring. After that, follow up with a finishing polish like M205 or Menzerna nano polish on a black pad.
> ...


^^^ worked !

spent like 300 bucks on gear
200 on the da
got a 5.5" adaptor, (in hindsight should have gone for the 3")
black and orange pad's
got the meg's 101 & 205

I did do a boo-boo, cut a small notch into the clearcoat because the adaptor was too big (BALLS)
but I should be able to re-do that. I also found, after the zymol settled in over a 24hr period, it looked better,

there is "some" difference between the factory and my paint, but it is "VERY" small, I guess, experience works here, I guess if I had it repaired properly by BMW or a body shop it would be 100%

but the feel and look is 100 times better

also learnt a lot about bodywork from this episode !

LOLZ

vid to follow


----------



## Johnz3mc (Jan 5, 2005)

Glad to hear the improvement Jaye,
The 5.5 inch pads and backplate will come in handy for the bigger parts of the car when you have to do those areas.


----------



## jaye944 (Jul 5, 2015)

txs man,
here's the "final" final video
LOL

https://youtu.be/OvStuVyt5bk


----------

