# Garage Flooring Options



## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

The Behr products are single part "epoxies". I am not a big fan of how this is typically done chemically. If you want an epoxy paint, you do a two part system.

As for peeling, 9 out of 10 times you didn't properly prep the surface before painting. Either not fully degreased or not etched or not fully cured or not dry (except for some like U-Coat-It which the first coat goes on a wet floor), or a surface that is not fully bonded and intact. Or you used an indoors product outside.


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

gr8330 said:


> *When you get there click on "pictures" *


There is not a pictures option shown...could you post the link again?


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## Artslinger (Sep 2, 2002)

tgravo2 said:


> *Thanks Emission, I enjoy it too, I wash the car most of the time on the back patio :thumbup: *


Drive through garage... what a great idea.

With the cross ventilation a great place for working on your car if its a hot day, and a good place for small parties if its raining.


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## rimblas (Mar 26, 2003)

Reed said:


> *There is not a pictures option shown...could you post the link again? *


The link posted will not work. It's generic and it takes you to the msn login. Unless you post your user name and password we will not be able to see them.


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## rimblas (Mar 26, 2003)

*Tile and Drainage*

Since I have access to a few garage tile experts (you're officially experts in my book if you've done this more times than I have  )here is my question...

I have a drain right in the middle of the two parking spots in my three car garage. The floor has an incline from every direction towards the drain. Would this be a problem while installing the Armstrong tiles? I'm thinking they will controur to the floor just fine and I'll just cut one of them to leave the drainage open.
Does this make sense? Does anyone thing this would look bad?

The Home Depot dude said it was not a problem and he was really exited about the idea of tiling the garage like that. He said to just leave the tiles by the sun for a little so they are warm and they become flexible. This way they will comform to the floor much better. He said there shouldn't break and they'll keep the new shape.

Any comments, ideas suggestions?

Thanks
-Jorge


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

When warm (left in the sun) the tiles get very flexible and can be cut with a utility knife or heavy sissors. When cold, they are rock hard and brittle! You'll notice they will conform to the shape of the garage floor (waves or ripples in the concrete) over time - hot or cold.

Just cut around the drain. You may want to finish it (the cut out circle) with black or white silicone to make it look professional.


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## rimblas (Mar 26, 2003)

Emission said:


> *Just cut around the drain. You may want to finish it (the cut out circle) with black or white silicone to make it look professional. *


Good call. Thanks man. :thumbup:


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## tgravo2 (Dec 7, 2002)

Artslinger said:


> *Drive through garage... what a great idea.
> 
> With the cross ventilation a great place for working on your car if its a hot day, and a good place for small parties if its raining. *


We use it mainly for parties and things like that, and it does help the breeze when washing the car :thumbup:


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Artslinger said:


> *Drive through garage... what a great idea.
> 
> With the cross ventilation a great place for working on your car if its a hot day, and a good place for small parties if its raining. *


Better for ventilation, AIR CONDITIONING.


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## Artslinger (Sep 2, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> *Better for ventilation, AIR CONDITIONING.  *


Central air or a window unit?


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Artslinger said:


> *Central air or a window unit? *


Central of course. 

Actually heat pump split unit. That will keep it above freezing during the winter 9for the detailing products0. ANd overhead IR tubes (like Home Depot uses) for working nice and toasty warm.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

JetBlack330i said:


> *This links is not working for me.
> Is it just me? *


Sorry about the link  try it again

Floor pics


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## Jay (Mar 28, 2003)

I guess I'm in the minority on this subject.

I don't believe in finishing garage floors - they should be concrete. Once you finish the floor you have to maintain it, always. If you paint your garage floor you will have to repaint it every year or second year.

I think plain, unfinished concrete is the way to go. If it gets dirty you can clean it with a some TSP and elbow grease. 

My garage is a separate, detached building, though, so I can see how someone might feel differently with an attached garage. In that case the garage is more of a space in the house than a separate structure.

Jay


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

I spend a lot of time in my garage. 

I like it clean, well-lit, and almost museum-like for my cars to park. As far as I am concerned, it is just another room in the house!


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## Clarke (Oct 21, 2002)

Jay; In my long ago previous life as a foreign car tech.(dealer and independant) I found painted floors much easier and less hassell to maintain.Properly done they last for years and years in very busy shops.Cleanup is a breeze on non absorbant finishes.Any good shop cleans up at the end of every day.With a hose,a few sprinkles of powdered cleaner/degreaser and a big floor squeegee a large shop could be cleaned and dry in 10 mins.looking like new. This was twenty years ago and if paint technology could stand up to commercial use then I would have to believe current quality product should have no problem with residential use. Plus a clean shiny garage is so nice and soul satisfying!


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Jay said:


> *I guess I'm in the minority on this subject.
> 
> I don't believe in finishing garage floors - they should be concrete. Once you finish the floor you have to maintain it, always. If you paint your garage floor you will have to repaint it every year or second year.
> 
> ...


I disagree. Concrete is porous. Concrete spalls (the surface flakes off and creates dust).

A GOOD paint job will last for virtually forever. Spills wipe up, oil and grease do not get into the porous concrete.

Once concrete gets grease and oil in it, it impossible to fully clean.

If all you do it park in your garage, then maybe concrete is OK. But if you work in it, painted floors are so much nicer.

For a show garage the tiles are sharp looking, but for a working garage, I don't like them.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

I forgot to mention, I painted our 1 car garage when we bought our house. I used UGL DryLock latex floor paint over their sealer. Except for a couple of spots the paint is in great shape. The latex does not resist long term exposure to brake fluid, so a couple of spots the paint has lifting, but the sealer is intact.

The painted floor is coming up on 19 years without any care, other than an occasional sweeping.


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## rimblas (Mar 26, 2003)

gr8330 said:


> *I put the Home Depot garage paint down and it lasted for 4 months. Hot wet tires pulled it up. I then put U-Coat it down and not a single problem since. It was easer to put down than the Home Depot paint. I put the grit between coats and know now that I didn't need to do that. Good luck
> Floor Pics *


:yikes: WOW! I really like how your floor looks. Very nice garage.
Congrats! :thumbup:


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

rimblas said:


> *:yikes: WOW! I really like how your floor looks. Very nice garage.
> Congrats! :thumbup: *


Thanks rimblas... if you look at picture #9 you can see that the floor is dirty, but still looks bright. Today I will spend about 15 minutes to clean the floor and it will look even better. The pan under my 325is is to see if I found the oil leak. It's harder to spot a small leak on the floor with the Flek.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

On the subject of cleaning... my tile floor sweeps (4' wide dry mop) in about 4 minutes. I do that weekly. I wet mop it monthly (with just clean water) and it takes less than 15 minutes. Piece of cake to take care of - and much easier than concrete.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

*Hey Emission*

That sounds like my process for cleaning....before the floor paint I had to sweep, clean the spots with a cleaner and then hose it out. Much harder than now.


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

gr8330,

Your garage looks great! U-Coat-It is on the top of my list right now.

Does anyone have experience with Wilshire Paint's garage floor epoxy product?


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## tgravo2 (Dec 7, 2002)

gr8330

Is that an ES 300 in the garage also?

A fan of the Bangle lights?


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

gr8330 said:


> *It's harder to spot a small leak on the floor with the Flek. *


For that reason and for finding small parts that have been dropped is why I did NOT fleck my floor. 

As I keep saying, checkerboard tiles (and fleck can be included) look great, but in a serious working garage (I have been known to pull and rebuilt engines, trannies, etc), it makes it hard to find things that drop, and the tiles can become stained and look worse than bare concrete.

For mainly show garage, and minimal work, those are great.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

tgravo2 said:


> *gr8330
> 
> Is that an ES 300 in the garage also?
> 
> A fan of the Bangle lights?  *


Yes it is my wife has a different out look toward cars. Every once in a while when she feels like shifting she would drive the 330 but it's gone now. She likes driving the 325 because I'm not as particular where she parks it. Not complaining I'm glad she can drive a 5 speed.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

gr8330 said:


> *Sorry about the link  try it again
> 
> Floor pics *


Your floor looks great. Ucoatit is in my future. No flek, no sand. Flekless for the reasons Pinecone mentioned, sandless so that a squeegee slides well.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

johnlew said:


> *Your floor looks great. Ucoatit is in my future. No flek, no sand. Flekless for the reasons Pinecone mentioned, sandless so that a squeegee slides well. *


Good choice. 

If you decide later to put the gloss coat on top, you will probably need sand then to give it more traction.

But the gloss is only needed if you fleck or use it outdoors (provides UV protection).


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> *Good choice.
> 
> If you decide later to put the gloss coat on top, you will probably need sand then to give it more traction.
> 
> But the gloss is only needed if you fleck or use it outdoors (provides UV protection). *


I believe the gloss is part of the process it adds protection to the base coat. :dunno: U Coat it says one coat of base color and one or two coats of gloss. 
Any way I wouldn't use the fleck or grit again. In my close up pic you can see the grit sticking up from the floor.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

gr8330 said:


> *I believe the gloss is part of the process it adds protection to the base coat. :dunno: U Coat it says one coat of base color and one or two coats of gloss.
> Any way I wouldn't use the fleck or grit again. In my close up pic you can see the grit sticking up from the floor. *


The gloss coat is only needed if the surface is exposed to lots of UV (like outside and the only problem without gloss coat is a color change or fading), or if you add fleck.

I was under the same impression that you are, that the gloss was needed. So I called and talked to them. No gloss needed without fleck. Two coats of color is fine.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

Pinecone..didn't know that...thanks


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## GSR13 (Apr 30, 2002)

Have any of you ever looked into MotorMat? I found the name in the back of an Automobile Magazine, with several other Garage Items listed.

Looks like it would cost about $1k to do 400 SqFt, but I am thinking you might be able to pull it up and take it with you if you move.

Just cursious, as I really would like to do my garage this summer.

After seeing Emission's first post, I had pretty much decided to go that way. But now, this MotorMat thing has me interested.

By the way, some of you guys have great looking garages.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

GSR13 said:


> *Have any of you ever looked into MotorMat? I found the name in the back of an Automobile Magazine, with several other Garage Items listed.
> 
> Looks like it would cost about $1k to do 400 SqFt, but I am thinking you might be able to pull it up and take it with you if you move.
> 
> ...


 GSR13..really looks good .... I just wonder what will happen after a while of spills and dirt falling into the holes


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## Jay (Mar 28, 2003)

Pinecone said:


> *I disagree. Concrete is porous. Concrete spalls (the surface flakes off and creates dust).
> 
> A GOOD paint job will last for virtually forever. Spills wipe up, oil and grease do not get into the porous concrete.
> 
> ...


Pinecone,

I'm glad your garage flooring is working out for you.

I work on my cars in my own garage, and I don't mind a little oil here and there on the concrete floor. As I mentioned, though, it is a fully detatched garage, not a part of my house, so I guess a few stains seems appropriate.

At my workplace, which is a professional automotive engineering firm, we have our shop floors painted with a mid-grey epoxy paint. It looks good for a couple years, then people start pushing engines on pallets across the floor, and the paint starts to come off in places. So we have to repaint every five years or so, and even that's waiting too long.

I associate our fancy painted shop floors with the chief mechanic yelling, "Hey, don't you dare drop that tool on this floor!". The floor seems to make the shop less functional since we have to worry about it so much.

Jay


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## jw (Dec 21, 2001)

Over the weekend, I saw a home improvement show that featured a garage make-over. They opted for a vinyl sheeting to cover the floor. Since it's channeled, it would do an awesome job of trapping all the snow and mud that gets tracked into the garage during winter. Also, it should keep the spills from wandering to other parts of the garage. This winter was so bad, we started to get some pools that would collect near the wall. I was constantly brushing it back to keep if from damaging the walls.

After checking out the products online they look very good! Quite inexpensive too. An enitre two bay garage would cost about $300 if you bought from Sam's Club. Probably closer to $450 if you bought the identical products from Griots. (fwiw, Griots may have great products, but they sure do rape you on the price)

http://www.bltllc.com/


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

Jay said:


> *Pinecone,
> 
> I'm glad your garage flooring is working out for you.
> 
> ...


Another problem with oil on bare concrete is that it eventually soaks through getting into the ground water. So a painted floor is environmentally sound. 

But having dragged things across my floor that surely should have scratched, and it didn't, I am not worried. And since my latex based floor in the attached garage has held up so well also, I am for painted floors.

And the attached garage has seen many projects, inluding a pretty complete rebuild of a Dodge Daytona Turbo Z.


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## FireFly (May 2, 2002)

gr8330 said:


> *It was the Behr product I used...but...They refunded all of the money I spent plus they (Behr) paid a guy to completely remove the coating..good customer service. *


GR- I called Behr to take care of my pool- they were great to deal with but they wanted to see 3 professional estimates to have the job done. I could not even get someone to return my call that entire summer- those were the bubble years!

After I got the stuff off I went with a concrete stain. It worked really well and since it's a stain, the stuff was peel proof. I moved from the house a few years later so I don't know if it ever peeled but when I lived there it held up great.

Wonder if a concrete stain would hold up in a garage???


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

I'm sure it would if the floor isn't sealed. The stain lets all the color variations show thru which in some applications looks grate. Not too many stains will seal the surface though allowing some spills to be absorbed.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

FireFly said:


> *GR- I called Behr to take care of my pool- they were great to deal with but they wanted to see 3 professional estimates to have the job done. I could not even get someone to return my call that entire summer- those were the bubble years!
> 
> After I got the stuff off I went with a concrete stain. It worked really well and since it's a stain, the stuff was peel proof. I moved from the house a few years later so I don't know if it ever peeled but when I lived there it held up great.
> 
> Wonder if a concrete stain would hold up in a garage??? *


Probably, but without a sealer, the oil stains wouldd show up as different color patches. Also it is unlikely that they will hold up to brake fluid (very feew things do).


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

I found what I'll be using on my floor next month. I talked with Wilshire Paints and they have a product (not the garage floor kit) that looks like it will do what I want. It is a 2 part water based epoxy and can be colored. They told me a number of auto shops in the area used it as well as the fire department. So, I went to one of the shops that happens to be one of the nicer shops in town and talked with the owner. He said that they contracted someone to do the floor in the shop and this sub had come in too low so he cheaped out and thinned the epoxy too much. The owner is not happy with the performance because it was thinned too much but he is happy with the product. He did his own garage at full strength and he loves it. THe problem in the shop is located in just a few sport where it did not adhere well due to the thiness but he said next time they'll be sure it is applied at full strength.

It is about $60 per until (gallon and activator) which will cover about 100 sq feet on first coat and 250 sq feet on 2nd coat.

I'll be sure to get all the specs and pictures when I get this project rolling.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Just a glimpse of a couple of before and after pics of what I've been hard at work at the last couple of weeks. Lighting 7-8ft. high output cold weather flourescents, cabinets, sink w/ hot and cold, paint, heat and floor with UcoatiT and UGloss. Still have more to go and more to put away but thought I'd share a couple.





































It's great to get almost all my detailing stuff in one cabinet now instead of three different places.


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## GSR13 (Apr 30, 2002)

Amazing John. Two huge thumbs up. That is excellent. I envy that garage.:thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

Beautiful work John!

We're closing escrow this week so I'm planning on coating mine this weekend.

How slick is the surface? I'm considering leaving the fleck out for a cleaner look but am a bit worried about the wife or kids slipping.

Frank


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

Hey John that is really nice :thumbup:


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Thanks guys. 

It's slick, I imagine we'll be curling or playing ice hockey on it come winter. I plan on putting down rubber mats with the holes in it for drainage in winter. In all honesty, had I not had issues with my floor that the Ugloss did a good job of mitigating, the Ucoatit alone would have been beautiful. I imagine it's less slick and does have a very nice low sheen. On a brand new floor, or any smooth floor, the Ucoatit would be gorgeous. A new floor needs 30 days to cure before application.


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## ayn (Dec 19, 2001)

Wow, good job Jon. Very nice! I still haven't painted the walls in mine... too lazy, and it's getting too hot to do things like that here...

u've got quite a few snow shuffles there... 

--Andrew


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

That looks great! What an improvement.


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## Guest84 (Dec 21, 2001)

Excellent John! :thumbup:


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## tgravo2 (Dec 7, 2002)

Great work John!!! :yikes: Looks like a new garage. :thumbup:


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

Stunning garage!! 

:thumbup:


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Thanks guys, I still have more to do. Finish the base moulding, laminate the work bench, get the heater installed and other odds and ends. I'll post more when it's all finished.


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## tgravo2 (Dec 7, 2002)

johnlew said:


> *Thanks guys, I still have more to do. Finish the base moulding, laminate the work bench, get the heater installed and other odds and ends. I'll post more when it's all finished. *


Post pics of the house too please  :AF330i:


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## ObD (Dec 29, 2001)

Nice work Monsieur Lew. Is that TiAg U-coat it? :rofl:


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## AB (Jan 11, 2002)

:bow: :bow: 

John, your garage is amazing. Looks like it should be in a magazine! I thought my garage was clean, but man oh man that takes it to a new level.

:thumbup:


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

*French connection*

John I see your cabinet is full of Griot's bargain basement items. The window cleaner and wipes are the best I've used.


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## GalBimmer (Jul 7, 2002)

OMG John - where I have been - you did it! That is just fantastic!!

Beautiful floor and what great modifcations to your entire garage. I love it. :clap: :clap:


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

GalBimmer said:


> *OMG John - where I have been - you did it! That is just fantastic!!
> 
> Beautiful floor and what great modifcations to your entire garage. I love it. :clap: :clap: *


Thanks for the compliments everyone.

Gal, get going on yours. The muriatic acid is really a non-issue and very easy. The Ucoatit is easy and great, the people are there to help you every step of the way and are great. If you've got warm weather and lower humidity, it will go much faster. Look forward to seeing your pics!


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## AB (Jan 11, 2002)

johnlew said:


> *Thanks for the compliments everyone.
> 
> Gal, get going on yours. The muriatic acid is really a non-issue and very easy. The Ucoatit is easy and great, the people are there to help you every step of the way and are great. If you've got warm weather and lower humidity, it will go much faster. Look forward to seeing your pics! *


I would like to do that as well. As it stands now, it is painted and cabinetry installed, with all lawn tools on racks and even our bikes hanging from the ceiling by hooks. It is very clean. However, the added touch of doing the flooring adds a whole new level of "clean".

On another somewhat related note, I'll never understand why some builders don't finish the garage walls in some developments. It would be relatively inexpensive to put a coat of white paint over the dreadful drywall taped walls. And I will never understand homeowners who leave said walls "as-is", when vastly improving the appearance of your residence is so easy.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Ryan330i said:


> *
> 
> On another somewhat related note, I'll never understand why some builders don't finish the garage walls in some developments. It would be relatively inexpensive to put a coat of white paint over the dreadful drywall taped walls. And I will never understand homeowners who leave said walls "as-is", when vastly improving the appearance of your residence is so easy. *


Painting already finished garage walls is a no-brainer. Quick, cheap and easy with high return.

Ryan, give Ucoatit a try, check out the site www.ucoatit.com In Vegas, on a floor as new as yours, the basic ucoatit system will be perfect. You really wouldn't need the gloss.


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## hts (Dec 19, 2001)

Excellent job Jon. 

:thumbup: 

But don't you think that a nice-looking garage like that deserves a brand new car (or two)?


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

We're getting closer to closing, looks like late next week now.

John, have you experienced much with any water or slickness on the floor yet? With the new floor I'm planning on just the basic U Coat. I really don't want to add the grit for traction since it could make clean up tougher.

We have the same trouble with the builder not finishing the garage. Once the floor is done I'm going to texture spray the walls and then paint.

Frank


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Harrison, no way! My two silver beauties look great in my multi-gray shaded garage. I can hardly find them in there. Will have to post a pic when all finished.

Reed. Haven't put much water, actually none, I've been wiping up any water that gets on the floor (week old now). I think you'd be fine with the basic ucoatit in CA. After all, if it gets a bit wet, how long could it take to get dry out there? My best advice is to call ucoatit, 1-800-ucoatit, and talk to one of the advisors about the issues that concern you. They even have a chat forum on the site, I think.

I've resigned myself to rubber mats in winter.


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## Reed (Jun 14, 2002)

Just happened to be on the phone with them....they have 2 types of grit, one that is sharper for garage floors and one that is rounded for applications around pools. I like the flat application an dmay just go that rount instead and use rubber mats for traffic areas like you in the winter.


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

johnlew (or anyone else who knows)

I will be finishing my garage floor with UCoatIt's base plus gloss coat system in a couple of weeks. I'll spread some of the Uflek chips too. I'm wondering though if I should use the aluminum oxide anti-slip product they sent. If you drive the car in from the rain and the floor gets wet, is it very slippery?


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## GalBimmer (Jul 7, 2002)

johnlew said:


> *Thanks for the compliments everyone.
> 
> Gal, get going on yours. The muriatic acid is really a non-issue and very easy. The Ucoatit is easy and great, the people are there to help you every step of the way and are great. If you've got warm weather and lower humidity, it will go much faster. Look forward to seeing your pics! *


Again, so very impressed John.

You know, I had planned on U-Coating-It in April. I bought a pressure washer to clean my garage floor and I actually managed to get chemical burns on my wrist from the concentrated concrete cleaner I added to the machine. Now that is just ridiculous. (To those wondering how can you do this - I just carried the machine upstairs to do my deck and the concentrate spilled out on my sleeve as I was struggling to lift it).  :tsk: So now my old fears are back about muriatic acid. 

So point is, I am AGAIN scared to death of the prep portion, but happy to do the application. I may have to pay someone but I just hate to do that. 

If anyone in NC wants to 'practice' on my garage just let me know. :wave:

:angel2:


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

GalBimmer said:


> * So now my old fears are back about muriatic acid. *


I'm going to be applying UCoatIt to a couple of interior basement closets when I do my garage, so I'm more worried about acid gas fumes than most people need to be. I think I've got a safe strategy figured out though. In addition to using fans to blow as much fresh air in as possible, I found that 3M sells inexpensive respirators. You can get a basic respirator (the 6200) for about $10, and you can get filters specially designed for acid gas (the 6002) for about $9. I'm gettting these at Grainger, an industrial supply company.

After talking to people at Home Depot, it's clear that plenty of people aren't so careful about using muriatic acid, but why risk it?


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## SpaceMonkey (Mar 13, 2002)

Okay. I'm finally going to use UCoatIt this summer for my garage. I love what Emission did too, but feel paint it more practical that tile, especially here in New England.

I have a decent amount of rust on my concrete. Anyone know if a degreaser will get rid of any of that? I'll be using it to get rid of a few small oil stains, but wasn't sure if I'll need to buy something specific for the rust. Or will the acid get rid of it?


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## rhenriksen (Jul 22, 2002)

I'd encourage you to at least check your area for someone with a bead blasting machine. www.switchboard.com has a category,

"Concrete Repairing Restoration Sealing & Cleaning"

with 23 listings in Houston.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Okay. I'm finally going to use UCoatIt this summer for my garage. I love what Emission did too, but feel paint it more practical that tile, especially here in New England.
> 
> I have a decent amount of rust on my concrete. Anyone know if a degreaser will get rid of any of that? I'll be using it to get rid of a few small oil stains, but wasn't sure if I'll need to buy something specific for the rust. Or will the acid get rid of it? *


Call UCoatit. 1-800-UCOATIT They will tell you, and provide you with, everything you need. You don't have to place your order to just call and ask about your specific project.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

whk said:


> *After talking to people at Home Depot, it's clear that plenty of people aren't so careful about using muriatic acid, but why risk it? *


For the first twenty-five years of my life, I didn't take any precautions... Now, I use safety glasses and gloves with power tools, hearing protection when I use the impact wrench and compressor, double the jack stands as necessary, and chemical masks when I paint. I've read way too many horror stories to take stupid risks these days...


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

whk said:


> *johnlew (or anyone else who knows)
> 
> I will be finishing my garage floor with UCoatIt's base plus gloss coat system in a couple of weeks. I'll spread some of the Uflek chips too. I'm wondering though if I should use the aluminum oxide anti-slip product they sent. If you drive the car in from the rain and the floor gets wet, is it very slippery? *


If you gloss it, I would seriously consider the anti skid.

Without the gloss the stuff is not very slippery when wet.

WRT safety when using the muriatic acid. A face shield, and gloves are recommended. I also hold my breath with pouring. Don't try this at home, I am a trained professional. 

Actually it will be somewhat hard for a average person to get the proper respirator cartridges for acid gas. You need ones that are color coded Yellow. You can find them from safety supply houses, but be prepared to buy them by the box.

I use nitrile gauntlet style gloves to protect my hands and about halfway up my forearm.

Also get some rubber boots to wear while do the neutralizing.

Have a running hose readily available. If you splash any acid where you don't want it, flush with lots of water for 15 minutes.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Okay. I'm finally going to use UCoatIt this summer for my garage. I love what Emission did too, but feel paint it more practical that tile, especially here in New England.
> 
> I have a decent amount of rust on my concrete. Anyone know if a degreaser will get rid of any of that? I'll be using it to get rid of a few small oil stains, but wasn't sure if I'll need to buy something specific for the rust. Or will the acid get rid of it? *


I agree, call U-Coat-It. Some rust will not be a problem, the paint will cover it, and once it cures, the rust should not be able to come up through the paint.

The more I am around the floor painted with U-Coat-It, the happier I am. Even dragging heavy objects does not permanently mark the floor. Spills wipe right up, and the light gray makes it easy to find parts I have dropped.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> * the light gray makes it easy to find parts I have dropped. *


The grey, I have medium, makes it easy to see everything. Now I have another floor to keep clean in the house. But it's so easy, I sweep with a tufted broom and mop if necessary with a string mop. I can't say enough about the product, regular or gloss.


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## SpaceMonkey (Mar 13, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> *I agree, call U-Coat-It. Some rust will not be a problem, the paint will cover it, and once it cures, the rust should not be able to come up through the paint.
> 
> The more I am around the floor painted with U-Coat-It, the happier I am. Even dragging heavy objects does not permanently mark the floor. Spills wipe right up, and the light gray makes it easy to find parts I have dropped. *


Good advice. I'll call them next week. I'm really looking forward to doing this. I'm getting light gray as well. :thumbup:

It's even more encouraging hearing the rave reviews from you and John. Thanks guys!


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Good advice. I'll call them next week. I'm really looking forward to doing this. I'm getting light gray as well. :thumbup:
> 
> It's even more encouraging hearing the rave reviews from you and John. Thanks guys! *


Your going to like talking to them and love the finished product good luck :thumbup:


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

I just finished doing my garage with the UCoatIt epoxy paint, paint flecks, and urethane coating. I did a few interior basement closets too, and it added up to about 900 sq ft. I'll post a picture in a week when it is fully cured.

While the project is fresh in my mind here are some things to watch out for.

1) You will need a roller screen, the sort that hangs inside the 5 gallon bucket, otherwise you'll waste time spreading lots of drips.

2) This is not a particularly easy project. I've done dozens of home repair projects of all sorts, and this one is a little tricky. The epoxy dries quickly, and since you can't just run to the store and buy more paint, you end up worrying about coverage.

3) You definitely want a helper. One person paints near the trim, the other can use the roller. The quantity of paint they recommend is sufficient for the job, and it is easy to get advice when you need it by calling them.

4) The first coat, i.e. the bond coat is put on a damp floor, but it is tricky to get the floor uniformly damp without creating puddles. You'll need a squeegy to get rid of puddles you accidentally create. 

5) The second coat is much more like conventional painting except for the tossing on paint chips.

6) The urethane coat is the easiest to spread, it stays wet a bit longer, so it isn't hard to blend into previously covered areas (unlike colored coats). The fumes from this layer are really nasty. I hope I will be able to relearn my multiplication tables.

7) To add insult to injury, I didn't realize that nothing in my house disolves the wet urethane. I tried soap, water, paint thinner, finger nail polish remover, and some sort of citrus cleaning solution. Ultimately the stuff dries, and at least for the time being, my hands are impervious to a wide range of chemical stains, and should even hold up to automobile traffic.

This is the sort of project that would be easier to do the second time. Not counting removing stuff from the garage, the whole project took me and a helper about 25 hours. This was for 900 sq. ft. and we were extremely careful about preparing the floor. We got the oil stains out with many washings with Simple Green, we pressure washed it, and of course, acid washed it. Muriatic acid is impressive stuff. Dilute it 5 to 1, and it instantly dissolves a thin layer of concrete on contact. I'm glad that I can't report what it does to skin or lungs.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

The only big problem I had was your #2. The paint WILL cover what they say, and if you roll it out, it is har to apply too much. I ended up with the coats too thin and a lot of waste.

#3 is a good one. I didn't think of that, but my wife did the trim while I rolled the floor.

I didn't do the fleck or gloss coat, so it only took a couple of hours spread over two sessions. One session to sweep, pressure wash, etch (muriatic acid), pressure wash, squeegee, and paint. Then 6 hours later paint again.

But due to my putting on too little, I am putting on a third coat to get more even coverage.

SO beware, do NOT skimp on paint.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Pinecone said:


> *The only big problem I had was your #2. The paint WILL cover what they say, and if you roll it out, it is har to apply too much. I ended up with the coats too thin and a lot of waste.
> 
> #3 is a good one. I didn't think of that, but my wife did the trim while I rolled the floor.
> 
> ...


I agree, #2 can be a problem, but temperature has a lot to do with it. It was cool when I worked, so pot life was not an issue. Also, on the Ucoatit, not GLOSS, you can thin it with about 10% water to give yourself more time. I don't agree with the screen idea. You need the roller loaded and you won't be spreading drips too seriously as long as you keep the bucket right near your immediate painting area.

#3, I had a helper who did the trim also, but after the first coat, skipped the hand painting and just rolled to the edge. If your are installing or replacing the base molding, you should be able to roll close enough to the wall. Otherwise, as an individual, you can mix up a small portion for the trim and then come back and mix the rest for the main floor.

I agree, don't skimp on the paint, but the first (base) coat should be thin and will tend to be because of the wet floor mixing in with the paint. Be liberal with the second coat, they give you plenty of paint. As Pinecone said, I was a little on the thin side, but had enough material left for a third coat, which I would recommend anyway if you have enough material left.

You're right about the urethane, potent smelling stuff. By the time you do that coat you are an expert and can get it on and out of the garage pretty quickly. Also, the urethane spreads differently than the paint, a much tackier application, but oh so nice!


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

The problem I had was I had already mixed it, so it wouldn't keep for another coat.

I agree, the screen is not necessary. Just make sure you drip on part of the floor that hasn't been coated on this pass.


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

It was a bunch of work, but the garage is done. Time to think of another project.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

whk,

The BMW goes in the garage with the nice new floor. The TRACTOR goes in the mud!

Looks great!


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Looks great! I knew it would.


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## gr8330 (Mar 31, 2002)

whk...really looks good


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## SpaceMonkey (Mar 13, 2002)

Pinecone said:


> *I agree, call U-Coat-It. Some rust will not be a problem, the paint will cover it, and once it cures, the rust should not be able to come up through the paint.
> 
> The more I am around the floor painted with U-Coat-It, the happier I am. Even dragging heavy objects does not permanently mark the floor. Spills wipe right up, and the light gray makes it easy to find parts I have dropped. *


Okay, I called U-Coat-It last week about the rust, and they told me to try CLR. I did, and that didn't work too well, even at full strength. I called them again today, and confirmed that the paint will cover it, and it shouldn't come through the epoxy. :thumbup:

Now I just have to decide if I want the gloss coat or not. :eeps:


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Now I just have to decide if I want the gloss coat or not. :eeps: *


Gloss!


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Okay, I called U-Coat-It last week about the rust, and they told me to try CLR. I did, and that didn't work too well, even at full strength. I called them again today, and confirmed that the paint will cover it, and it shouldn't come through the epoxy. :thumbup:
> 
> Now I just have to decide if I want the gloss coat or not. :eeps: *


Space, you can add the gloss anytime. You can do the Ucoatit alone, see how you like it. If you want a glossier coat, ucoatit alone has a low sheen, you can order the gloss, clean the floor and paint the gloss on. I think I'm right on this, but call Ucoatit and ask, just to be sure. You're gonna love whichever you choose!


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## SpaceMonkey (Mar 13, 2002)

johnlew said:


> *Space, you can add the gloss anytime. You can do the Ucoatit alone, see how you like it. If you want a glossier coat, ucoatit alone has a low sheen, you can order the gloss, clean the floor and paint the gloss on. I think I'm right on this, but call Ucoatit and ask, just to be sure. You're gonna love whichever you choose! *


Thanks John, that's reassuring.  I'll do just that. I'll get the regular Ucoatit, and decide later on if I want the gloss. I'm pretty excited to get this project underway. :bigpimp:


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Okay, I called U-Coat-It last week about the rust, and they told me to try CLR. I did, and that didn't work too well, even at full strength. I called them again today, and confirmed that the paint will cover it, and it shouldn't come through the epoxy. :thumbup:
> 
> Now I just have to decide if I want the gloss coat or not. :eeps: *


You can do the gloss later if you want. Just clean the floor and do the gloss coat. You may want to add another color coat for non-skid.

I don't like the reflections in a working garage when I am looking for those little parts I seem to drop. For a show garage the glass is sharp looking.


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

SpaceMonkey said:


> *Okay, I called U-Coat-It last week about the rust, and they told me to try CLR. I did, and that didn't work too well, even at full strength. I called them again today, and confirmed that the paint will cover it, and it shouldn't come through the epoxy. *


I had some rust on my floor from a rusty tractor implement. Simple Green, pressure washing, and acid washing didn't phase it, but the paint covered it right up.


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## SpaceMonkey (Mar 13, 2002)

whk said:


> *I had some rust on my floor from a rusty tractor implement. Simple Green, pressure washing, and acid washing didn't phase it, but the paint covered it right up. *


That's good to hear too!  I may order as early as today, to to it either this upcoming weekend, or the next, weather permitting.


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

*U-Coat*

After reading so many experiences with U-Coat, and considering the vinyl tiles that Emission chose, I decided to use U Coat:

I chose the beige coat with the Turf fleks and it looks fantastic. The application was not complicated, the preparation was the painful step... cracks, oily spots, concrete holes and bumps. It took me a couple of days to get it right to start the base coat. Once the garage is prepared the rest is easy...

The only thing that I would like to do differently was the use of the aluminum oxide powder (anti-skid). If you are going to use the U-Flek and the U-Gloss it is not necessary to use the anti-skid. The problem that I had was that I did not get this anti-skid uniformly spread into the base coat, therefore if you look closely to the photos above there are some spots that the aluminum was concentrated. Other than this, it is mighty fine...

I did the whole garage at the same time, using the _slatwall_ system that Home Depot sells. I called GarageTek for a quote for the exact same wall system (they use 1' X 8' plastic sheets compared to the slat wall 4' X 8', 1/2" particle board) and it is more than _three_ times more expensive than the Home Depot slatwall, including labor.

So far I am very happy with the U-Coat results, the floor is easier to clean, shiny and sharp.

Great advice guys, thanks! :thumbup:


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

I can't see your pics but your garage sounds great!


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## Technic (Jun 24, 2002)

johnlew said:


> I can't see your pics but your garage sounds great!


Hope that you can see them now... thanks!


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

. :thumbup:


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

The slat wall looks neat. A little late for mine, but nice.

I did recoat my floor after the lift install (I WILL post an update, soon). It really helped the look of the floor. I really got the first two coats on WAY too thin.

I talked to the U-Coat-It guys and we came up with an approximate number of square feet for one roller load to get people in the ball park of application.

For those who are still waiting, when you do apply it, my recommendationt o make sure you put it on heavily enough is to not try to roll it out too much. If the roller drags at all during the rolling out, add more paint. It is almost hard to put enough paint down.


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## LmtdSlip (May 28, 2003)

Emission said:


> Another shot, more BMW politically correct...
> 
> It is Vinyl Composite Tile. Not without issues, but great for the money....


Are those bales of pot staked on your cabinets?


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

LmtdSlip said:


> Are those bales of pot staked on your cabinets?


No, the pot is drying out back today (it is 90+ outside!).

Those are actually the patio chair cushions. If I leave them outdoors, they fade pretty quicky in the sun. When we entertain, I bring them down.


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## missing23 (Feb 1, 2002)

I like my floor...kinda slippery when wet but then again it doesn't rain a whole heck of a lot out here!


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## uter (Jan 6, 2002)

greginaz1 said:


> I like my floor...kinda slippery when wet but then again it doesn't rain a whole heck of a lot out here!


Greg, it looks really good.

By the way, are you up in McDowell Mt. Ranch? Your garage looks very similar to my house built by Engle Homes in MMR. I was thinking that the beige would match the exterior color scheme of the house as well as the aggregate driveway.

If you're up this way, I'd love to pick your brain about the U-Coat.
Thanks,
Andy


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

Has anyone tried the Rust-oleum Epoxy Shield product? I'm trying to decide between this and U-Coat.

I don't want my floor glossy, I prefer a matte finish, and I want it to be slip resistent.


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## GSR13 (Apr 30, 2002)

jvr530i said:


> Has anyone tried the Rust-oleum Epoxy Shield product? I'm trying to decide between this and U-Coat.
> 
> I don't want my floor glossy, I prefer a matte finish, and I want it to be slip resistent.


My neighbor purchased this kit from Home Depot a few weeks ago and it looks great. Cheap enough and easy enough that I will likely give it a try. Longetivity is not something I can speak about, but it looks great.


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## AF (Dec 21, 2001)

Cliff ... you did an incredible job, I love the way your garage came out !!!!


Can you tell me where you got your wall cabinets and what size are they ... I'd love to do the same exact thing to my garage ...


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

Alan, the cabinets are manufactured by Doable and I bought them from Home Depot. The cabinets are all on this page, model numbers 12357, 12127, 12115 and 12116. They've got all the specs and such detailed there. The project ran about $850 and it took roughly 2.5 days. The tall cabinets weigh nearly 200 pounds each. If I had to do it again, I'd pay Home Depot to deliver them.


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

Cliff3 said:


> I finished my UCoatIt floor yesterday


how come you didn't coat the lower wall area too? :dunno:


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## AF (Dec 21, 2001)

Thanks Cliff for the links ... I hope when I do mine it comes out as nice as yours:thumbup: 

Again it just looks great (man am I jealous)


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

TeamZ4 said:


> how come you didn't coat the lower wall area too? :dunno:


 I thought about it, but that concrete is relatively rough and unfinished. Base molding is the better approach to cover this stuff.


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## elbert (Mar 28, 2002)

I looked at the Doables; the one thing I didn't like is the shelves aren't even laminated--it's raw wood surface.

Cliff, did you put anything down on your shelves, like some rubber mats or paint them with leftover UCoatIt? I'm concerned that they will absorb some liquids that might spill.


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

If they coated the shelves with something, it would likely be the melamine that they coat the other surfaces with. Melamine isn't all that robust a finish, so I'm happier with the unfinished particle board . I haven't put anything down yet, but you've got a good point and I should think about it. The choice of material probably depends on the liquid being stored in the cabinet and the nature of the containers. Shelf paper is probably good enough for most places. 

Too late for some muss in the cabinet with the detailing supplies though - I left a tire dressing sponge face down and some of the residual liquid seeped into the cabinet. It did clean up reasonably well, but...


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

Cliff3 said:


> I thought about it, but that concrete is relatively rough and unfinished. Base molding is the better approach to cover this stuff.


makes sense, I couldn't tell that from the photos :thumbup:


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## Hercules (Jul 15, 2002)

Looking at garage pictures makes me think it's almost porn


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

Hercules said:


> Looking at garage pictures makes me think it's almost porn


need a tissue?


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## racerdave (Sep 15, 2003)

Outstanding, Cliff. :thumbup:

I'd like a bigger garage, no question. But to maximize the space the way you have... that's essential. Great job.

Those cabinets are pretty reasonably priced, it seems. I've also looked at some solutions from http://www.thecompletegarage.com for tiling and such.

Either way, my garage needs a LOT of work to look like Cliff's. Great job... again.


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I'd like a bigger garage too, but that will probably have to wait until I move somewhere with cheaper housing.

I went down to the local Home Depot yesterday in search of 6" vinyl base moulding, but came away empty handed. I ordered some online just now from the www.installersstore.com/. It looks like they're up your way in Madison, John. Now I just need to replace the last of the shelving from the previous owner (on the left side of the back wall), probably repaint the walls, and put in some pegboard behind the bench.

edit: and get Keith to come by and install a 4 socket electrical box over the bench, too.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Cliff3 said:


> Thanks for the compliments everyone. I'd like a bigger garage too, but that will probably have to wait until I move somewhere with cheaper housing.
> 
> I went down to the local Home Depot yesterday in search of 6" vinyl base moulding, but came away empty handed. I ordered some online just now from the www.installersstore.com/. It looks like they're up your way in Madison, John. Now I just need to replace the last of the shelving from the previous owner (on the left side of the back wall), probably repaint the walls, and put in some pegboard behind the bench.
> 
> edit: and get Keith to come by and install a 4 socket electrical box over the bench, too.


I actually bought mine locally in four foot lengths from an industrial supplier. You want to avoid coiling it up if possible. I found it easiest to apply the adhesive to the back of the molding with an adhesive gun and then spread it evenly with a notched trowel. Get yourself a roller, like what's used when applying laminate, to roll pressure evenly against the wall when you install. Cutting and fitting is lots of fun!


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

This stuff is sold in 4' lengths. The almond color they sell looks like a light gray, so that's what I ordered. My garage is smaller and simpler than yours and there are some areas that I can't cover with cove moulding, so it shouldn't be a huge project.


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

As a follow-on to my use of U-Coat-It, there was a problem with the gloss coat, apparently relating to the use of a solvent for surface prep. This could be a caveat for anyone facing similar circumstances. Apologies to all the chemists out there, I am a mere civilian. The epoxy solvent I used is an aromatic and gives off aerosols as it evaporates. The gloss coat is a 'monolithic' coat of paint, and the cure process was affected by the evaporative actions of the solvent. The downside is that I have to prepare the surface for a mechanical bond (i.e.: sand), apply a tint coat, the u-fleks, and a clear coat once again. The upside is that U-Coat-It is providing the material free of charge, and I didn't do a very good job of broadcasting the u-fleks in the first place so I'm getting a mulligan, sorta :eeps: :tsk: 

:thumbup: to U-Coat-It


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

Cliff3 said:


> As a follow-on to my use of U-Coat-It, there was a problem with the gloss coat, apparently relating to the use of a solvent for surface prep....


I had a similar problem with my installation. I had hairline cracks in the floor that apparently absorbed some of the acid wash that ended up not being sufficiently neutralized or rinsed. After several months I started getting a yellowish blooming discoloration under the gloss coat. The problem was purely cosmetic, and didn't effect the durability of the installation. I called UCoatIt and they agreed to send replacement material for the entire garage floor (700 sq ft). I thought I would have been happy just replacing the 200 sq ft that were effected, but they said I'd end up with an obvious line between the two coats.

So, I rented a floor sander, sanded the bejeezus out of the gloss coat and some of the paint, redid the whole floor, and so far, everything is great.

I think I could have avoided all of the extra work if I had just added one step to their instructions. That is, after acid washing and rinsing (which I did over and over with a pressure washer), sprinkle baking soda all over, especially near hairline cracks that might have absorbed acid, and rinse it again.


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

for you guys that paid someone else to do it, curious to know an approx. $/SqFt price you may have paid

I have 600 Sq Ft to do something with  the snap-in motorsport type tiling isn't exactly cheap and I don't want to coat it myself :dunno:


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

oh never mind, I just needed to read the thread from the beginning


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## jvr826 (Apr 22, 2002)

*Some Pics of My 90% Complete Garage Remodel*

It's a nice day so I decided I'd get some shots of my 90% complete garage remodel. I worked on this thing forever it seems. All that's left to do is build a workbench to go where the Cagiva is parked.

Flooring is u-coat-it medium gray, no flek, no high-gloss top-coat. Cabinets are Mills Pride Versa-Cabinet, 48" wide. Baseboard is 4" rubberized self-stick. It came in 20' rolls which allowed me to install it without any seams. I have 8 48" twin tube flourescent fixtures with 40w C50 color correct bulbs for general lighting, one more over the work bench for task lighting.

Enjoy!


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## TeamM3 (Dec 24, 2002)

I don't know why this thread isn't in the DIY forum with all the other garage flooring option threads :dunno:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1088867&postcount=39


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## ginavarat (May 23, 2005)

*Epoxy Nightmare*

Does anyone have experience with garage epoxy floor paint not curing properly? I followed all preparation instructions to the letter. When water hits the floor, the paint turns to watercolor. It mops right up.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

ginavarat said:


> Does anyone have experience with garage epoxy floor paint not curing properly? I followed all preparation instructions to the letter. When water hits the floor, the paint turns to watercolor. It mops right up.


The epoxy does have a shelf life. If it is old, it will not cure properly.

You either didn't mix the correct ratios (but you said you did), the epoxy was bad, or the floor had a chemical reaction with the epoxy.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

TeamM3 said:


> I don't know why this thread isn't in the DIY forum with all the other garage flooring option threads :dunno:
> 
> http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1088867&postcount=39


Maybe when the thread started (over two years ago) that forum didn't exist? :dunno:


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

ginavarat said:


> Does anyone have experience with garage epoxy floor paint not curing properly? I followed all preparation instructions to the letter. When water hits the floor, the paint turns to watercolor. It mops right up.


What brand? How old was the paint? Did you mix the proper quantities? Did you give it time to "induce" (most epoxies require that you wait after mixing to allow the chemical reactions to start)?

Contact the manufacturer.


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## arnolds (Dec 21, 2001)

Sorry, late to the party but I have www.racedeck.com flooring installed in my garage. Comes out to about $3.50 per sq ft installed. Cleans easily with a swiffer and simple green. Here are some pics but I'll try to take more pics of the full garage.


























:thumbup:


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## Galun (Aug 14, 2002)

I just bought the basic ucoatit kit, and I will apply it next weekend.

One question - There are some hairline cracks on the concrete in the garage floor - nothing big, but just normal concrete cracking from a house that's 40 years old, due to settling or whatever. Should I patch these up before I apply ucoatit? If so, how should I patch these up? I see that they have a uprep product, but are there other alternatives?

Thanks.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Galun said:


> I just bought the basic ucoatit kit, and I will apply it next weekend.
> 
> One question - There are some hairline cracks on the concrete in the garage floor - nothing big, but just normal concrete cracking from a house that's 40 years old, due to settling or whatever. Should I patch these up before I apply ucoatit? If so, how should I patch these up? I see that they have a uprep product, but are there other alternatives?
> 
> Thanks.


Only if the cracks will bother you after the floor is coated. Use the UcoatiT product to fill the cracks if you decide to.


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

Galun said:


> I just bought the basic ucoatit kit, and I will apply it next weekend.
> 
> One question - There are some hairline cracks on the concrete in the garage floor - nothing big, but just normal concrete cracking from a house that's 40 years old, due to settling or whatever. Should I patch these up before I apply ucoatit? If so, how should I patch these up? I see that they have a uprep product, but are there other alternatives?
> 
> Thanks.


Are you a perfectionist? If so, since your garage floor will look amazngly good when you are done, you might as well go the whole 9 yards and patch those cracks with the kit UCoatIt sells.

There is an easier alternative though - just fill them with a high quality paintable silicone caulk. It is strangely satisfying shoot caulk into those cracks till it oozes out. Follow this by wiping off all excess caulk with damp rags. Since caulk shrinks when it dries, the final result will be just one shade short of perfection - there will be a slight indentation left.

I don't know if you get better results using the UCoatIt patch kit, but the caulk technique is so easy, and the results are much better looking than doing nothing. (I've done it twice, so I've got twice as much experience as I had hoped to have).


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## Galun (Aug 14, 2002)

Should I apply the caulk before or after acid prepping the floor?


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## Cliff (Apr 19, 2002)

The UCoatIt putty goes down after the primer coat and before the color coat. I'd be inclined to take the same approach with caulk. However, the following paragraph in the manual would give me pause about using silicone anything on the floor:



UCoatIt manual said:


> 3. If you have used, or suspect anyone has used a silicone sealer or tire dressing including silicone on or over
> your concrete, it is recommended to remove the top layer of concrete with an EDCO grinder prior to finishing​
> with UCoat products.​


​


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## whk (Mar 14, 2003)

Galun said:


> Should I apply the caulk before or after acid prepping the floor?


Check with the UCoatIt people on this. They told me about the caulk, and in general, they are extremely helpful. If you do end up acid washing before caulking, check a previous post of mine in this thread. Briefly: acid left in cracks can lead to discoloration, so follow an acid wash with a baking soda rinse.


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## Silver328i (Aug 22, 2004)

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_3000&L2=L2_3080


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## Ågent99 (Jan 7, 2002)

Anyone ever heard of DuraCoat? I'm embarrased to say that I kinda got suckered into buying 2 gallons of this stuff ( :dunno: weak moment? :dunno: ) but don't know anything about it. Just curious...getting ready to clean up the garage floor to coat it.


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## Ågent99 (Jan 7, 2002)

Actually, finally found a website for the DuraCoat that I was talking about:

http://www.protectyoursurface.com/index.html


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## Galun (Aug 14, 2002)

Okay, I am done.

It wasn't the cleanest application. The floor looked okay... not as great as many of the pictures posted here, but it's good enough to me.

I had two problems. Nobody to blame but myself though.

1) Too much water on the floor before applying the first coat. I did RTFM (read the f**king manual ) before, but I guess not close enough. Instead of a damp floor, I had a wet floor with puddles. As a result, in some areas the first coat was kinda floating around, and took like 36 hours to dry :eeps:. There will probably be problems later on... but luckily those are corner areas that will be covered by cabinets.

2) Caulking. Actually, for this screw up, I did RTFM, but my father in law did not. We did the first coat, and I had to travel the next day for business. So I asked my father in law to fill the cracks with the latex cault I bought. Too bad that I bought only 3 tubes and that wasn't enough. He went to the store and got silicone paintable caulk (with 30 year warranty against leaks... how ironic). Noooooooo! Too late... The second coat painted over it and it stuck, but I wonder if it will post problems later on...

Anyways... it was a fun exercise. We kept telling ourselves that we wanted a good garage surface against spills and what not, and we did get that. It's just ain't that pretty. But it was prettier than it was before the floor coating. I guess we did a good job in burying our head in the sand.

Muratic acid is indeed impressive stuff. I was surprised that home depot didn't carry it.

Anyways... time to go find some cabinets / work benches to finish out the garage. Any recommendations here? I looked at some of the home depot / lowes / sears solution.... but I am wondering if others have more recommendations.


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## Pinecone (Apr 3, 2002)

For wall units, I used the utility ones sold by Home Depot. Same sompany (Mills Pride) as their kitchen and bath cqabinets, but a good bit cheaper. I used construction adhesive in assembling them for more strength.

For work bench, I built one out of 2x4s with a plywood lower shelf and plywood back. I used 1/8" steel plate for the top, but plywood or ply with galvanised sheet on top would work fine.


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## johnlew (Dec 25, 2001)

Decided to address a couple of problems I had do to poor prep by the fellow fixing the cement when I Ucoatit the floor 2 years ago. Repainted the area where the cars park with Shewin Williams Armor Seal 1000 HS. I got lazy and had a college kid do it. Did the new area in a darker grey than the original for a different look.


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## Emission (Dec 19, 2001)

John,

Looks great!

I moved last month to a bigger home... no more VCT "Checker" pattern - left in the old garage.  

Now, I've got a speckled epoxy floor (left by the previous owner as flooring under his Ferrari 360). It was done very well, and I am pretty happy with it. Very different when compared against VCT.

Give me a couple months to beat on it, and I will give a report... :thumbup:


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## 99flhr (Apr 12, 2005)

Emission said:


> Another shot, more BMW politically correct...
> 
> It is Vinyl Composite Tile. Not without issues, but great for the money....


 Like Emission, I did the tile but used black and gray tiles to minimise the staining that comes with white, looks great with a Cosmo car and a black M/C. Have had zero problems thus far. :thumbup:


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## pilotman (Feb 2, 2006)

*UCoat Question: Snow and Rain in Midwest*

I have reviewed this thread and I think I am ready to apply ucoat.

I live in Michigan, and we get snow here in the winter and rain in the spring.

How does this stuff react to such weather?

For example, I would like a nice neat clean garage, but we have long winters. What happens if my wife and I pull our cars into the garage, the snow melts....etc....?

We do not have a drain in the garage (damn EPA  ) but the builder did a nice job sloping it down so water drains from house.

Does melting snow/water harm this surface?

I can "broom" the water out once every two weeks or so, but I don't have the time to do that every couple of days.

finally, has anyone used a simple "clear" staining epoxy, kind of like the floors at Lowe's or Home Depot?


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