# Bad Gas?



## realtordc (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi,

Just wanting to know what you'll think about my problem before I take it to a shop, I think it could be as easy as draining / siphoning the gas tank and putting new gas in the car.

2007 X3 - 144k miles

Has been running perfectly, this morning with little under 1/4 tank I stop at the Shell and fill up with 93.

About a mile down the road my car stalls, check engine light comes on, battery light comes on, car shuts off. I turn it back on and get where I'm going (the gym) which is only another 1/4 mile. After my workout, the car will start up but then quickly stalls out and will not hold the idle.

I think it is bad gas? Can I try fixing this myself? I called the shop and they said they cannot get to it today.. they mentioned it could be a crank sensor..


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## Formula 1 (Mar 17, 2014)

Fuel pump. Exact same symptoms as when mine went out. Same conditions too (under a quarter tank and Shell 93 V- power.)


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## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

Yeah, fuel pump. I guess I would also ask, how old is the battery? E83's are similar if not the same as an E46 electrical system, if I recall correctly. And E46's are known to do really weird stuff when the battery starts getting sketchy. 

PS - In regards to draining and filling the gas tank, take care. Ya don't want to end up like a Roman Candle. :bigpimp:


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## realtordc (Sep 20, 2011)

Hi thanks for the responses, here are some new developments and thoughts:

The car was running perfectly up until the fill up and the problem first occurred almost exactly a mile from the filling station, just enough time for the new gas to slosh around with the old gas, this is the primary reason I suspect it is the gas alone.

Okay, so it would not start and idle for me when I came out of the gym after about 1.5 hour inside, I called a cab and got another vehicle, went and bought some Iso Heet suspecting maybe there was water in the gas.

When I get back to the X3 after about 2 hours away I try to start it before pouring the Iso Heet in and it starts and idles after a couple hiccups, I drive home and it stalls twice and the service engine light soon comes on solid yellow. This actually happened one time before and I think it was just the gas because it means emissions problem and after a while it just went off and stayed off. 

Everytime it has stalled has been at low speeds coming up to stop lights or when I'm braking.

I get home, pour the Iso Heet in and wait about 20 minutes. I return and start the car to idle, it knocks and hiccups for a minute or two, and then smooths out at about 700 rpms and idles smooth for about 10 minutes.

So I don't know, I think I am going to try to drain or siphon most of the tank and go get some new gas and see if that does not take care of it.

The battery was replaced around 12/2013 so it should be fine I hope.

I have no idea about the fuel pump I bought it with 70k miles in 2012 and have only replaced, brake pads & rotors, the water pump and coolant expansion chamber, air filter, along with oil & oil filter changes.


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## Formula 1 (Mar 17, 2014)

I just had to replace my fuel pump at 76k. That's about how long they last. If you're at over 100k with the original fuel pump it was only a matter of time before it was going to need to be replaced. 

My indy was booked for 2 weeks the day my fuel pump failed and I was forced to go to the dealer. They charged me $1200. Go to an indy and they'll do it for under $1000. 


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## HugH (Apr 26, 2006)

realtordc said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just wanting to know what you'll think about my problem before I take it to a shop, I think it could be as easy as draining / siphoning the gas tank and putting new gas in the car.
> 
> ...


Hopefully it was caused by dirt in the gas. A few years ago they had a rash of cars with the same symptoms caused by an improper mix of gas/ethanol that caused fuel pump damage to BMW, Ford and even Postal Vehicles. BMW would not cover the repairs since it was caused by improper fuel mix.

Keep us posted.


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## UnderEstimated (Jun 25, 2014)

I'm 99.9% sure it's your fuel pump. After many years on numerous forums, most fuel pump failures occur right after fill up, especially when the tank is rather empty. The fuel put into the tank tends to be substantially cooler than the remaining fuel in the tank. The rapid difference in temperature ultimately is the final straw for a failing fuel pump.


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## realtordc (Sep 20, 2011)

Okay after having a couple days with it I now believe you'll who say fuel pump are right and it is not just bad gas. I think the pump is just on its last legs, because the car drives fine, it simply has trouble holding an idle when you first start it or occasionally when you come to a stop.

Is there anything I should order besides the fuel pump? Should I replace the fuel filter?


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## need4speed (May 26, 2006)

HugH said:


> Hopefully it was caused by dirt in the gas. A few years ago they had a rash of cars with the same symptoms caused by an improper mix of gas/*ethanol* that caused fuel pump damage to BMW, Ford and even Postal Vehicles. BMW would not cover the repairs since it was caused by improper fuel mix.
> 
> Keep us posted.


=:irate:


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## Rick D (Jul 15, 2014)

realtordc said:


> Okay after having a couple days with it I now believe you'll who say fuel pump are right and it is not just bad gas. I think the pump is just on its last legs, because the car drives fine, it simply has trouble holding an idle when you first start it or occasionally when you come to a stop.
> 
> Is there anything I should order besides the fuel pump? Should I replace the fuel filter?


 Can't say for certain with your car, but filter should be part of the new ( intank) pump.. If not , and it is an in tank fuel filter, by all means replace it at the same time...


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## HugH (Apr 26, 2006)

Rick D said:


> Can't say for certain with your car, but filter should be part of the new ( intank) pump.. If not , and it is an in tank fuel filter, by all means replace it at the same time...


There should be a fuel filter easily replaceable under the hood. If you're going to try and do it yourself, this should be the first thing yo be replaced. I've had this type of problem before and that was a cheap remedy.


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## emyers (Jul 28, 2006)

Pull the codes......


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## realtordc (Sep 20, 2011)

Okay so I pulled the codes and got P0141

Possibilities:

- Faulty Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit fuse
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit open shorted to ground
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (H2OS) Bank 1 Sensor 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Okay, so this goes along with something I did forget to mention in the first post which was that the EML light came on with the battery, red oil, and check engine.

I had him check my battery and it tested fine but low on charge (presumably because every time I stall I have to restart it not allowing it to recharge), but when he tested the alternator it said the voltage regulator was failing.

Another thing, I had to buy a battery from AutoZone in 2012 when mine died. It is a match for the 2007 X3 but the terminals of the battery are not quite big enough to allow the screw tightening mechanism to fully tighten around terminals. You can still wiggle the power and ground wires even though they have been fully tightened and are touching the terminals snug. You cannot lock it down.

So, I've charged the battery tonight.

Tomorrow, I'm thinking the order will be:

- check the fuse box for any blown fuses.
- inspect the o2 sensor condition and connections
- see how car does with full charge.
- replace the voltage regulator.
- clean battery terminals
- find a way to lock down the power and ground cables on the battery.
- replace the O2 sensor if those 3 do not fix it?

What do you think is that the logical order? I'm fairly new to trying to work on cars..


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