# Ask Detailer's Domain



## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

Ryan M said:


> Not too get off topic and just on a quick note, but is the detail section no longer sponsored by Adams?


ryan, Adam's Polishes no longer sponsors the detailing boards here.

let me know how I can help as you know we do carry Adam's Polishes.:thumbup:


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

nellee said:


> many thanks Phil, found a great website that hs just shown me what can be achieved with some hardwork on a sunny afternoon..!! cleanyourcar.co.uk took some old swirly motors and totally transformed them, i was amazed at what could be achieved by using products and some hard work...!!!! I will be ordering my products soon, do you recommend a buffing machine rather than hand polish..?
> 
> see results below from the UK detailing site, they said the photographs didnt really do the finish any justice either...!!! but the difference in getting rid of swirls is amazing
> 
> photos to follow


sorry i didn't set the option to automatically subscribe here.

if you can I would probably pick up a Flex XC3401 or at the minimum the PC.

LMK if you have more questions at all.


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## dihedral (Jun 27, 2007)

I have a friend with an older American car that has a headliner with seems to be made out of a thin stiff cardboard material. The headliner has multiple perforations in it (by design). Problem is: The entire headliner is falling, and no one seems to know where to buy material like this. I do not remember the year of the car, but I think it is an 80ish model large Caddy.

Any ideas what can be used to replace the headliner to make it look similar to the original material?


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

you should probably go to a cadillac dealer and give them the vin number so they can try to pull it from the computer or a manual.

Once you find out the year of the car you can probably order one or get an aftermarket one maybe even ebay.


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## dboy11 (Mar 6, 2006)

dihedral said:


> I have a friend with an older American car that has a headliner with seems to be made out of a thin stiff cardboard material. The headliner has multiple perforations in it (by design). Problem is: The entire headliner is falling, and no one seems to know where to buy material like this. I do not remember the year of the car, but I think it is an 80ish model large Caddy.
> 
> Any ideas what can be used to replace the headliner to make it look similar to the original material?


I used this site some years back for a rug kit, they have OEM stlyled products to include HL

The rug kit was really good quality

http://www.stockinteriors.com/


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

back up to the top.


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## Hakko (Jul 9, 2008)

Hi, Phil. I posted this as a separate question in the detailing forum, but I'd appreciate your professional opinion. As a preface, let me say that I'm a new BMW owner and have no experience in car detailing. I'm not as fanatical about my car's appearance as most of the folks in this forum, but I do want my car to look decent.

So here's my problem: I was standing behind my car, trying to apply some spray-on sunscreen, but the nozzle had gotten blocked by a waxy build up. Then the build up suddenly broke apart and sunscreen went splat all over the back of my black X3. Now the rear of my car looks like it has leprosy, or at least a bad case of acne from the dried on waxy drops. I tried getting them off with Meguiar's Quick Detail spray, but it just made the paint shine. I can scratch them off with a fingernail, but that's a bit tedious. Any ideas on what would get off the spots without messing up the finish? Ideally something that will not require my re-waxing the entire rear of my car if possible.

Thanks.


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## Rich_Jenkins (Jul 12, 2003)

[email protected] said:


> Let me know what's on your mind, how to apply something, tech questions on detailing?
> 
> I will try to answer it the best I can also welcome others to answer as well.


Philip - My car is five years old, and I've had it since new (2003 Silver Gray E46 -- see avatar.)

I was noticing the other day when I came across a picture of the car at delivery, how shiny it used to be.

Nowadays, although my finish is still very clean, it's not really "drop dead" shiny like it used to be.

I typically wash using car shampoo twice a month at least, and put on a coat of wax every 3 to 4 months. I have clay-barred the car in the past, and it definitely smooths out the finish.

For waxing, I use any old wax I get at Target or Costco. At the moment I have a bottle of Zymol "Cleaner Wax" I'm using.

I don't really have a lot of time during the weekends, so I'm looking for a suggestion on what to do to get that "shiny" look back on the finish, that doesn't involve spending 8 hours at a time cleaning the car. 

Any thoughts?


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

Hakko said:


> Hi, Phil. I posted this as a separate question in the detailing forum, but I'd appreciate your professional opinion. As a preface, let me say that I'm a new BMW owner and have no experience in car detailing. I'm not as fanatical about my car's appearance as most of the folks in this forum, but I do want my car to look decent.
> 
> So here's my problem: I was standing behind my car, trying to apply some spray-on sunscreen, but the nozzle had gotten blocked by a waxy build up. Then the build up suddenly broke apart and sunscreen went splat all over the back of my black X3. Now the rear of my car looks like it has leprosy, or at least a bad case of acne from the dried on waxy drops. I tried getting them off with Meguiar's Quick Detail spray, but it just made the paint shine. I can scratch them off with a fingernail, but that's a bit tedious. Any ideas on what would get off the spots without messing up the finish? Ideally something that will not require my re-waxing the entire rear of my car if possible.
> 
> Thanks.


hakko,

there is really no easy way out, you should be able to get a clay bar and some clay lube and clay the car then you would have to at the least wax it, but if it were me I would take the opportunity to clay the whole car/polish it and then wax it.

or you could find a good detailer in your area to help you out.


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

wingspan said:


> Philip - My car is five years old, and I've had it since new (2003 Silver Gray E46 -- see avatar.)
> 
> I was noticing the other day when I came across a picture of the car at delivery, how shiny it used to be.
> 
> ...


Great looking car.

to get the shine back you will probably need to spend sometime meaning.

wash the car, clay it, polish it (most important part) and then wax it.

The polishing step will clean up your clear and make it look much better.

LMK if this helps, I can also recommend products to you.


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## Hakko (Jul 9, 2008)

Phil,

Thanks for the advice. FWIW, I tried using Meg's Cleaner Wax on the residue, as suggested by another forum member. Used as directed on the package, it didn't do much for the residue, but did shine up my liftgate something nice. 

Would a Wal-Mart Meg's claying kit have all the stuff I'd need to do the job? Bear in mind that I have no experience claying, or anything else to do with car cleaning beyond washing my old car with a bucket, sponge, and some Dawn.


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

it should work fine the clay bar at Wal Mart or you can pick some up from us

http://www.detailersdomain.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=278

http://www.detailersdomain.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=59


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

I have been asked for this book from many of the members here.

You can download it here:

Swissvax Handbook

LMK what you think.

Enjoy!


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## vmijj91 (Jun 30, 2008)

Anyone know of a good detailer in Northeastern OHio


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## Gig103 (Sep 10, 2007)

I have a detailing question ...

Do you typically polish a whole car, or only areas that need it? My car is new and has just a few small areas I'd like to touch up after clay but before JetSeal'ing. I only will be using a light polish, but should I plan on polishing the whole car or just the areas in question?

Also, the lights that you pro detailers use to find trouble spots, what power rating are they, and are they available in local hardware stores or anything?


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## gokartmozart (Oct 6, 2006)

Gig103 said:


> I have a detailing question ...
> 
> Do you typically polish a whole car, or only areas that need it? My car is new and has just a few small areas I'd like to touch up after clay but before JetSeal'ing. I only will be using a light polish, but should I plan on polishing the whole car or just the areas in question?


Hi Gig103 and congrats on your new baby, it sounds like a great vehicle (twin turbo and 6sp  )...

My recent experience (Im an owner, not a pro) was very positive after a week of looking, asking and compiling advice on a new white car. The dealer did not touch the car after delivery. I drove it home and next day, washed (Gold Class), clayed (2 Meguires bars), polished (Pinnacle XMT360) and applied 2 coats of sealant (Wolfgangs Concours Deep Gloss) on body and wheels. Also matte finish tire dressing (forgot... maybe CG). All morning on Saturday and an hour or so on Sunday morn for second coat of WCDG.

Very happy with results. The Pinnacle polish is fairly mild and was very recommended for a new car. Basically it gave me a nice clear surface to use the synth "wax" sealant. The sig picture below was taken after first coat of Wolfgangs.

Phil?


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## gokartmozart (Oct 6, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> I have been asked for this book from many of the members here.
> 
> You can download it here:
> 
> ...


Nice!!! Thanks... In-spirin!:thumbup:

Ummm, gonna go clean my car now!


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

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- Filter: Reusable Dust Cloth Bag
- Attachments: Upholstery Tool, Dust Brush, Crevice Tool, Blower Nozzle, Air Mattress Inflator, Shoulder Strap, 4) Mini "Detailing" Attachments.
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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

back up top.


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## Snakepit (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi Phil,

Great idea for a thread.

I have a 95 540i that still has a clean brilliant red finish but has faded a bit over the years. There's minimal oxidation and clear coat failure on some small areas and I know that it probably needs a repaint soon. However, I just got a PC 7424 recently and plan on making the paint pop again from its old, faded condition. I have some Meg's clay and Meg's Scratch X and NXT wax. Would these do a decent job with the PC or should I get more professional products like the Menzerna SIP?


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

the pc is good and the clay is good but you might want to try another polish.
what brand and color pads do you have?


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## Snakepit (Aug 25, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> the pc is good and the clay is good but you might want to try another polish.
> what brand and color pads do you have?


I just got the PC and I only have the stock white pad it comes with. Are the orange pads safe to start out with or are they too aggressive? I know I also need a backing plate.

What would you recommend for polish? I think I need one that can handle moderate to heavy swirls...


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

I would say pick up the white pads as well.

We have the backing plate and the pads in stock.

I would say orange pad and the Super Intensive Polish and finish with Menzerna PO106fa and the white pad.

LMK.


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## lonewolf525 (Jan 29, 2009)

hey Phil can you send me recommendations on how to keep my car looking really well. 

i need products to wash, (wax, glaze, polish, and sealant) for exterior of the car. while i am also looking for interior products to keep the interior of my 525i looking like it should. thanks


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

Back up top!


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

How to navigate - Detailer's Domain

Take a look you can do quite a bit on our site

Did you know -
- You can register at Detailer's Domain to get updates on your orders, order history, and create a wish list.
- You can Like Us on Facebook
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- You can visit our Blog for news on detailing, see our detailing write ups, and more.
- We now have the Deal of the Day as well
- Also please subscribe to our mailing list to get exclusive deals and updates


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## Mynoles1 (Dec 28, 2006)

I hear a lot about putting carnauba paste wax on after you do the sealant to really bring out the shine. Is this a hand application only?

Trying to figure out how to apply with the PC, but obviously not so easy with paste in the can. Is there a liquid carnauba that is nearly as good as the paste?


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

we recommend doing that by hand you don't have to but it maybe quicker.


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## Ilovemycar (Feb 19, 2010)

Ok, now that this thread has been bumped, I wanna play too! 

Phil, your thoughts on your various "decon" products? Wolf's gel vs Valugard A+B vs Aquartz, and am I missing anything else? I have about 1/3 left in my Sonax 5L jug, and would like to try a related product on the paint for the first time. Value is important to me (go with Valugard I suppose?), but the ability to use the product easily for both paint and wheels would be a huge bonus.

Also, is it true that the Valugard system should be used with all three, ABC, and that you only carry AB? Maybe I misread. Thanks for any insight!


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

Ilovemycar said:


> Ok, now that this thread has been bumped, I wanna play too!
> 
> Phil, your thoughts on your various "decon" products? Wolf's gel vs Valugard A+B vs Aquartz, and am I missing anything else? I have about 1/3 left in my Sonax 5L jug, and would like to try a related product on the paint for the first time. Value is important to me (go with Valugard I suppose?), but the ability to use the product easily for both paint and wheels would be a huge bonus.
> 
> Also, is it true that the Valugard system should be used with all three, ABC, and that you only carry AB? Maybe I misread. Thanks for any insight!


Valugard is great but its a bit of a pro product so I would say skip it.

As for Wolf's that will work on paint or wheels and then their is Aquartz Iron Cut that will work on both.

Either of those will be great on paint.


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## Mynoles1 (Dec 28, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> we recommend doing that by hand you don't have to but it maybe quicker.


Philip, do you take the wax off with the PC or just do hand waxing the whole way?? If you use a PC or other machine, what type of pad do you use on the machine to buff the wax?

Thanks


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## [email protected] (Feb 21, 2008)

we remove sealants and waxes by hand.


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